Nadiri was a type of a

overcoat An overcoat is a type of long coat (clothing), coat intended to be worn as the outermost garment, which usually extends below the knee. Overcoats are most commonly used in winter when warmth is more important. They are sometimes confused with ...

that was specifically reserved for the

Mughal Mughal or Moghul may refer to: Related to the Mughal Empire * Mughal Empire of South Asia between the 16th and 19th centuries * Mughal dynasty * Mughal emperors * Mughal people, a social group of Central and South Asia * Mughal architecture * Mug ...

emperor

Jahangir Nur-ud-Din Muhammad Salim (30 August 1569 – 28 October 1627), known by his imperial name Jahangir (; ), was the fourth Mughal Emperor, who ruled from 1605 until he died in 1627. He was named after the Indian Sufi saint, Salim Chishti. Ear ...

() and his esteemed courtiers. The vest was an invention of his own, which he had named 'Nadiri'. Nadiri was known as among the people in Persia. The term 'nadiri' was meant to refer to rarity.

Style

The Nadiri is a sleeveless coat that extends down to the thighs and features buttons at the front. It was traditionally worn over the Qaba, a long coat with sleeves and buttons.

Jahangir's fashion and artistic interests

According to historical records, Jahangir had a passion for fashion and his attire, including his turbans and jewelry, and tended to be more extravagant and ornate compared to the fashion sense of his father

Akbar Abu'l-Fath Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar (25 October 1542 – 27 October 1605), popularly known as Akbar the Great ( fa, ), and also as Akbar I (), was the third Mughal emperor, who reigned from 1556 to 1605. Akbar succeeded his father, Hum ...

's era. Jahangir had a strong interest in art and architecture. He documented events, descriptions of flora and fauna, and daily life in his reign in his autobiography, the ''Jahangirnama''. He also commissioned court painters like Ustad Mansur to create detailed artworks to accompany his writing. Jahangir adorned himself with magnificent clothing crafted from intricate silks and

brocade Brocade is a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in colored silks and sometimes with gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli", comes from Italian ''broccato'' meaning "embos ...

s. In addition, he introduced a variety of new dresses, including the nadiri, which he reserved for those whom he chose to grant it to. Jahangir's fashion was closely monitored and emulated by the court. He issued a decree that specified certain textiles and garments to be made exclusively for his use. As a reward for their loyalty and service, the emperor bestowed selected courtiers with gifts of clothing and jewelry, including the nadiri that was designed by himself. As stated in the emperor's memoir, Jahangir had a unique outfit consisting of nadiri, tus shawl, batugiriban, qaba made of Gujarati satin, chera, and waist-belt woven with silk and gold threads, which he kept for himself.

Jahangir holding a globe

Mughal paintings have elements from Central Asia and Europe as well as Persian and Indian styles and methods. Mughal paintings spanning the 16th to 19th century depict various aspects of life during that period, including legendary tales, warfare, courtly activities, gardens, hunting, and wildlife. Jahangir is depicted here n the above imagewearing magnificent court attire, including a patterned sleeveless jacket that he dubbed nadiri ('rarity'). He is wearing two patkas (sashes) around his waist: the longer one is intricately embroidered with gold floral designs, while the shorter one is made of Rajasthani tie-dye fabric.

References

{{Historical clothing 17th-century fashion Mughal clothing