Moynat

Moynat is one of the oldest Parisian trunkmakers. Their first studio was opened in Paris in 1849 founded by Octavie and François Coulembier. They joined forces with a specialist in travel goods named Pauline Moynat, to open the first store of avenue de l'Opera. Moynat was one of the first leather goods houses of its day. Known for its traditional know-how and skills base in handcrafting made-to-order luggage and travel goods, the house became known for its designs for the automobiles, as well as for its technical innovations such as making its trunks lighter and waterproof, and for its participation in the various World's Fairs.

History

The meeting of two families

The House of Moynat was the result of a meeting between Pauline Moynat, who sold travel goods in the Opera district of Paris, and the Coulembier family, manufacturers from the ''faubourgs'' – the inner suburbs to the north of the city.

In 1849, the trunk makers opened their first atelier. They joined forces with Pauline Moynat to open the Moynat boutique in 1869 on what was then the Place du Théâtre Français (now the Place André Malraux) opposite the famous Comédie-Française. The boutique was situated at the heart of Haussmann’s redesigned Paris, and following the construction of the Avenue de l'Opéra in 1876, it took pride of place at nº.1, later to become the oldest shop on the avenue. The Moynat boutique became an institution, staying open continuously for well over a hundred years until 1976.

File:DiligenceMoynatWeb.jpg, A Moynat horse cart, 1880
File:PhotoBoutiqueWeb.jpg, The first Moynat Boutique Avenue de l'Opéra in 1869
File:PhotoBoutiqueInterieurAWeb.jpg, Interior of the Moynat Boutique, 1907

The destiny of the House of Moynat and three generations of Coulembier

The collaboration between Pauline Moynat and the family of manufacturers began with François Coulembier, continuing with his sons Jules Ferdinand, Edmond, Louis and Maurice. The house reached the height of its commercial powers under the direction of the founder’s grandsons, profiting from the rise of the automobile to become a design reference in the context of this new mode of transport.

The business remained in the hands of the Coulembier family until 1976.

The factory

In 1907 the Coulembier family began construction on a model-factory at 15, rue Coysevox up at Montmartre. With some 1500m² of space situated in a four-story building, the factory employed more than 250 workers. Most employees at the factory were specialist artisans who built all the Moynat trunks. For the first time ever in Paris all the specialist skills associated with trunk-making were gathered together in one place.

File:LesFreresCoulembierWeb.jpg, The Coulembier brothers, Moynat directors, 1906
File:PhotoUsineWeb.jpg, The Moynat factory, rue Coysevox in 1907

Innovation

Moynat patented its first inventions for packaging materials in 1854.National Industrial Property Institute (France) The label was the first to use hardened gutta-percha waterproofing to produce its trunks and packing boxes. In 1870, Moynat brought out the wicker trunk, known as the " English trunk" or "Moynat trunk", a lightweight structure consisting of a wicker frame, covered with a varnished canvas and leather trimming. The product weighed a mere two kilos and was highly sought after by travellers wishing to avoid excess baggage fees.

In 1889 Jules Coulembier perfected a whole new system of lightweight trunks, followed in 1910 by the invention of an extra-light, unbreakable model.

The House of Moynat also produced a series of security mechanisms for its trunks.

Moynat and the World’s Fairs

Moynat was a regular participant in World's Fairs since the second edition in Paris in 1867.
The house also took part in the Exposition universelle in Paris in 1900, Brussels in 1910 and was appointed jury member at the Turin exhibition in 1911, and was awarded two gold medals and two special prizes at Ghent in 1913.

However, it was in 1925 that Moynat broke the record at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels, where its automobile trunks were a great success, awarded a ''Diplôme d’Honneur'' by its peers together with a number of gold, silver and bronze medals,Journal Officiel de la République Française, January 5, 1926 a record of achievement that distinguished Moynat as the leading French ''malletier'' (trunk maker) of the time.

Collaboration with Henri Rapin

In 1905, the Moynat began a long-lasting collaboration with Henri Rapin, creative director. Rapin designed the logos of the House, the Moynat monogram, illustrated the product catalogues and conceived the models presented at universal and international exhibitions.

After the Coulembier

Moynat closed its boutique at the Place du Théâtre Français in 1976. Its trunks however continued to travel around the world. The Scholl family bought the rights to the house in the early 1980s for use by its company Malles et Voyages. Orcofi, the Vuitton family's holding company, bought Malles et Voyages in 1989, following the disposal of the bulk of its shares in LVMH. Orcofi's CEO, Vuitton's former President Henry Racamier (1912-2003), had planned to relaunch Moynat as a competitor to Louis Vuitton. However, Orcofi was eventually sold to AXA in 1996 and its assets were stripped, thus the ambitious plans to relaunch Moynat never saw the light of day.

The Revival

Luxury holding company Luvanis SA bought the rights into Moynat in the late 2000s, developed a revival plan and assigned the brand to Groupe Arnault, LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's holding company bought Moynat in 2010.

In December 2011, Moynat reopened with a flagship store at 348 Rue Saint-Honoré, followed by shops in London in 2014, Hong Kong, Beijing in 2015, Tokyo, New York, Seoul, Taipei in 2016, Singapore in 2017, and Dubai in 2018.

See also

*Au Départ
*Aux Etats-Unis
*Goyard
*Louis Vuitton

References

Bibliography

* ''Bagages en escale'', Musée de la Chemiserie et de l'Elégance Masculine
* Barre Fils, M.A. de la, ''De la Gutta-Percha et de son application aux dentures artificielles'', Victor Masson, 1852
* Brunhammer, Yvonne, ''Catalogue de l’exposition des Porcelaines de Sèvres de style Art Déco au musée Teien de Tokyo'' 1993
* Caracalla, Jean-Paul, ''Le goût du Voyage – Histoire de la Compagnie des Wagons-lits'', Flammarion, 2001
* Centorame, Bruno (dir.), ''Autour de la Madeleine. Art, littérature et Société'', Paris, Action artistique de la Ville de Paris, 2005
* Chapel, Edmond, ''Le Caoutchouc et la Gutta-Percha'', Ed. Marchal et Billiard, 1892
* Devauges, Jean-Denys, ''Le voyage en France : du maître de poste au chef de gare'', 1740–1914, Réunion des musées nationaux, 1997
* Espanet, Luisa, ''Valises & Compagnies'', Genleman Editeur, 1987
* Gregory, Alexis, ''L'âge d'or dur voyage 1880-1939'', Chêne, 1990
* Havard, Henry, ''Dictionnaire de l'ameublement et de la décoration depuis le XIIIe siècle jusqu’à nos jours'', Fairault, 1901.
* ''Invitation au voyage'', catalogue de l'exposition organisé par l'Union Centrale des Ars décoratifs, Paris, musée des Arts décoratifs, 1987
* Kjellberg, Pierre, ''Art Déco, les maîtres du mobilier, le décor des paquebots'', Éditions de l'Amateur, Paris, 2004.
* Labourdette, Jean Henri, ''Un siècle de carrosserie française'', Edita, 1972
* Loyer, François (dir.), ''Autour de l'Opéra. Naissance de la ville moderne'', Action artistique de la Ville de Paris, 1995
* Rauch, André, ''Vacances en France de 1830 à nos jours'', Hachette Littérature, 2001
* Rolland, Jean-Philippe, Kieffer-Rolland, Marie, ''Restauration des malles de voyage'', Eyrolles, 2008
* Savary de Brûlons, Jérôme, ''Dictionnaire universel du commerce'', Editions Jacques Estienne, 1723–1730

External links

{{Authority control

1849 establishments in France
Bags (fashion)
Clothing brands of France
Companies established in 1849
Fashion accessory brands
High fashion brands
Luggage brands
Luggage manufacturers
Luxury brands
Manufacturing companies based in Paris
LVMH brands