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Morella () is an ancient walled city located on a hill-top in the province of Castellón,
Valencian Community The Valencian Community ( ca-valencia, Comunitat Valenciana, es, Comunidad Valenciana) is an autonomous community of Spain. It is the fourth most populous Spanish autonomous community after Andalusia, Catalonia and the Community of Madrid wi ...
, Spain. The town is the capital and administrative centre of the '' comarca'' of Els Ports, in the historic
Maestrat The Maestrazgo () or Maestrat () is a natural and historical mountainous region, located at the eastern end of the Sistema Ibérico mountain range, in Spain. It encompasses the north of the Autonomous Community of Valencia, in Castellón provin ...
(Maestrazgo) region. There are traces of settlement by the
Iberians The Iberians ( la, Hibērī, from el, Ἴβηρες, ''Iberes'') were an ancient people settled in the eastern and southern coasts of the Iberian peninsula, at least from the 6th century BC. They are described in Greek and Roman sources (amon ...
, succeeded by the
Greeks The Greeks or Hellenes (; el, Έλληνες, ''Éllines'' ) are an ethnic group and nation indigenous to the Eastern Mediterranean and the Black Sea regions, namely Greece, Cyprus, Albania, Italy, Turkey, Egypt, and, to a lesser extent, ot ...
and Romans,
Visigoths The Visigoths (; la, Visigothi, Wisigothi, Vesi, Visi, Wesi, Wisi) were an early Germanic people who, along with the Ostrogoths, constituted the two major political entities of the Goths within the Roman Empire in late antiquity, or what is k ...
and the
Moors The term Moor, derived from the ancient Mauri, is an exonym first used by Christian Europeans to designate the Muslim inhabitants of the Maghreb, the Iberian Peninsula, Sicily and Malta during the Middle Ages. Moors are not a distinc ...
. From the early 17th century to the
Spanish Civil War The Spanish Civil War ( es, Guerra Civil Española)) or The Revolution ( es, La Revolución, link=no) among Nationalists, the Fourth Carlist War ( es, Cuarta Guerra Carlista, link=no) among Carlism, Carlists, and The Rebellion ( es, La Rebeli ...
, the town was often fought over, due to its strategic situation between the
Ebro , name_etymology = , image = Zaragoza shel.JPG , image_size = , image_caption = The Ebro River in Zaragoza , map = SpainEbroBasin.png , map_size = , map_caption = The Ebro ...
and the coastal plain of Valencia. Morella is part of the
Taula del Sénia The Taula del Sénia () or Mancomunitat de la Taula del Sénia is a commonwealth or free association of municipalities made up of 22 towns, totalling up to 100,000 people, of some of the comarcas that make up the center of the historical regio ...
free association of municipalities. Every six years the citizens celebrate the ''Sexenni'', a commemoration of the town's recovery from the plague in the seventeenth century. Tourism now plays an important part in the local economy, along with agriculture. In the 20th century the town and surrounding area became depopulated, a trend that has only been reversed in the early 21st century. The population of Morella at the start of 2019 was 2,430, having declined from a figure of 7,335 in 1900 ( INE). One of the typical gastronomic products of Morella is sweets known as flaons. Local bakeries are also renowned for a number of other traditional pastries and sweets, like
mantecadas Mantecadas are spongy pastries originating in Spain. Perhaps the best known mantecadas are from Northwestern Spain, being a traditional product of the city of Astorga, province of León, as well as the nearby Maragateria comarca. They taste ...
, prepared in the ancient way.


History

Prehistoric remains in the area include
cave paintings In archaeology, Cave paintings are a type of parietal art (which category also includes petroglyphs, or engravings), found on the wall or ceilings of caves. The term usually implies prehistoric origin, and the oldest known are more than 40,000 y ...
in , in Morella la Vella, famous for the oldest known depiction of
archery Archery is the sport, practice, or skill of using a bow to shoot arrows.Paterson ''Encyclopaedia of Archery'' p. 17 The word comes from the Latin ''arcus'', meaning bow. Historically, archery has been used for hunting and combat. In ...
combat Combat (French for ''fight'') is a purposeful violent conflict meant to physically harm or kill the opposition. Combat may be armed (using weapons) or unarmed ( not using weapons). Combat is sometimes resorted to as a method of self-defense, or ...
. These paintings date from 7,200 to 7,400 years ago. The ancient Greeks established a treasury at Morella, but then the area became the scene of conflict between the
Carthaginians The Punic people, or western Phoenicians, were a Semitic people in the Western Mediterranean who migrated from Tyre, Phoenicia to North Africa during the Early Iron Age. In modern scholarship, the term ''Punic'' – the Latin equivalent of the ...
and the Roman Empire during the
Punic Wars The Punic Wars were a series of wars between 264 and 146BC fought between Rome and Carthage. Three conflicts between these states took place on both land and sea across the western Mediterranean region and involved a total of forty-three ye ...
. Eventually the town was Romanized and became part of the province of
Tarragona Tarragona (, ; Phoenician: ''Tarqon''; la, Tarraco) is a port city located in northeast Spain on the Costa Daurada by the Mediterranean Sea. Founded before the fifth century BC, it is the capital of the Province of Tarragona, and part of Tarr ...
. The Visigoths populated the city in two different epochs, there are ruins of a Visigoth village in the site of Mas Sabater-Cantera de la Parreta de Morella. There are the remains of a building from the 7th century A.D., which according to the archaeologists could have been twelve meters high and maybe it was a noble building or maybe of religious use according to Ramiro Pérez, one of the directors of the excavation. The
Moors The term Moor, derived from the ancient Mauri, is an exonym first used by Christian Europeans to designate the Muslim inhabitants of the Maghreb, the Iberian Peninsula, Sicily and Malta during the Middle Ages. Moors are not a distinc ...
took the town in 714, naming it ''Maurela''.
El Cid Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar (c. 1043 – 10 July 1099) was a Castilian knight and warlord in medieval Spain. Fighting with both Christian and Muslim armies during his lifetime, he earned the Arabic honorific ''al-sīd'', which would evolve into El C ...
is reputed to have rebuilt the castle which dominates the town and in 1084 he is supposed to have fought in the service of Yusuf al-Mu'taman ibn Hud and defeated Sancho Ramírez of Aragon at the
Battle of Morella The Battle of Morella (14 August 1084×88), southwest of Tortosa, was fought between Sancho Ramírez, King of Aragon and Navarre, and Yusuf al-Mu'tamin, King of Zaragoza, while the former was engaged in a campaign of conquest against the la ...
. In 1117, Sancho captured Morella, but it was recaptured by the Moors and only finally subdued by Blasco de Alagon in 1232. Following Blasco's death in 1239, James I of Aragon established a royal garrison in the city and awarded the inhabitants the title of "Faithful". Morella sided with Philip V during the
War of the Spanish Succession The War of the Spanish Succession was a European great power conflict that took place from 1701 to 1714. The death of childless Charles II of Spain in November 1700 led to a struggle for control of the Spanish Empire between his heirs, Phil ...
in the early eighteenth century and became the centre of a military and political district. During the
Napoleonic Wars The Napoleonic Wars (1803–1815) were a series of major global conflicts pitting the French Empire and its allies, led by Napoleon I, against a fluctuating array of European states formed into various coalitions. It produced a period of Fre ...
, the citizens rose up against the invading forces and the town was finally captured for Spain in 1813 by Francisco Javier de Elío. In the
Carlist Wars The Carlist Wars () were a series of civil wars that took place in Spain during the 19th century. The contenders fought over claims to the throne, although some political differences also existed. Several times during the period from 1833 to 18 ...
of the nineteenth century Morella became the headquarters of the forces of Ramon Cabrera. The town was captured by forces of General Franco in April 1938, towards the end of the
Spanish Civil War The Spanish Civil War ( es, Guerra Civil Española)) or The Revolution ( es, La Revolución, link=no) among Nationalists, the Fourth Carlist War ( es, Cuarta Guerra Carlista, link=no) among Carlism, Carlists, and The Rebellion ( es, La Rebeli ...
. Republican guerillas held out in the surrounding mountains until 1956. In the 1960s and 70s many people left the town for work opportunities in the cities and many of the local small industries died, but a slow revitalization has taken place since the transition of Spain to democracy.


Sexenni

In the late seventeenth century, Morella was severely affected by the
plague Plague or The Plague may refer to: Agriculture, fauna, and medicine *Plague (disease), a disease caused by ''Yersinia pestis'' * An epidemic of infectious disease (medical or agricultural) * A pandemic caused by such a disease * A swarm of pes ...
. After twenty years of suffering, the citizens brought a statue of the
Virgin Mary Mary; arc, ܡܪܝܡ, translit=Mariam; ar, مريم, translit=Maryam; grc, Μαρία, translit=María; la, Maria; cop, Ⲙⲁⲣⲓⲁ, translit=Maria was a first-century Jewish woman of Nazareth, the wife of Joseph and the mother of ...
from the Sanctuary of
Vallivana Vallivana is a small settlement belonging to Morella, Ports (comarca). Description Vallivana is an almost deserted cluster of houses southeast of Morella. It is located at the eastern end of the Dena de Coll i Moll, right by N-232 road betwe ...
, away, at the feet of the
Serra de Vallivana Serra de Vallivana (, es, Sierra de Vallivana) or Muntanyes de Vallivana is an over long mountain range straddling the Alt Maestrat and Baix Maestrat comarcas, Valencian Community, Spain. Geography The highest point of the range is the 1,275 ...
range, and processed it through the streets. It is said that the plague disappeared from the city and, to remember this, every six years the Sexenni festival takes place for nine days in late August. The virgin is carried in procession and the traditional town
guild A guild ( ) is an association of artisans and merchants who oversee the practice of their craft/trade in a particular area. The earliest types of guild formed as organizations of tradesmen belonging to a professional association. They sometim ...
s perform ancient dances in her honour. The festivities in 2006 were the first of the 21st century.


Municipal area

Morella's municipal area is divided into subdivisions known since ancient times as '' Dena''. These are: La Vespa, Els Castellons, Dena Primera del Riu, Dena Segona del Riu, La Font d'en Torres, Herbeset, Els Llivis, Morella la Vella, El Coll i el Moll, La Pobla d'Alcolea, Dena de la Roca, Muixacre, Herbeset, Xiva de Morella, Hortells and
Vallivana Vallivana is a small settlement belonging to Morella, Ports (comarca). Description Vallivana is an almost deserted cluster of houses southeast of Morella. It is located at the eastern end of the Dena de Coll i Moll, right by N-232 road betwe ...
.


Geography

Morella occupies a strategic position between the plains of the river
Ebro , name_etymology = , image = Zaragoza shel.JPG , image_size = , image_caption = The Ebro River in Zaragoza , map = SpainEbroBasin.png , map_size = , map_caption = The Ebro ...
to the north west and the coastal plains of Valencia and Castellon. Access from the north west lies through the passes of Torre Miró and Querol . The old town is completely enclosed by of ancient stone walls, pierced at seven points by gates or ''portals''. The river
Bergantes The Bergantes is a short river in the Valencian and Aragon Communities which rises in the comarca of el Ports ( Castellón), SSE of Morella. It is the only river in Valencia which forms part of the Ebro basin. Geography Although its course is ...
skirts the southern boundaries of the town as it descends towards the
Guadalope The Guadalope (Guadalop in Catalan and Aragonese) is a river in Aragon, Spain. It is a tributary of the Ebro (Ebre in Catalan). Course This long river rises in the Sierra de Gúdar, near Villarroya de los Pinares and Miravete de la Sierr ...
which ultimately joins the
Ebro , name_etymology = , image = Zaragoza shel.JPG , image_size = , image_caption = The Ebro River in Zaragoza , map = SpainEbroBasin.png , map_size = , map_caption = The Ebro ...
.


Climate

Morella has an Oceanic climate ( Köppen: Cfb) highly influenced by its altitude around and its well inland location, with warm summers and cool winters (cold for Spanish standards) with frequent frosts and snow. Temperatures as low as and heavy snowfalls can happen during harsh cold spells. The highest temperature ever recorded in Morella was in 16th August 1925, while the coldest temperature recorded was in 17th December 1933. The average temperature in Morella during 1916-2020 has been , with an average rainfall of and 15 snowy days on average. The annual sunshine hours are around 2500−2600.


Today

Morella is now a tourist destination, with many historic buildings, hotels and restaurants. It is listed as one of th
most beautiful towns in Spain
Some of the to

are the Castillo de Morella (Morella Castle), the aqueduct, Iglesia de Santa María (Saint Mary’s Church), Convent de San Francesc (St. Francis’ Convent) both in Gothic style, the Temps de Dinosaures Museum (Time of Dinosaurs Museum), and th

from the 7th century (Mas Sabater-Cantera la Parreta). Although not as important as in the past,
wool Wool is the textile fibre obtained from sheep and other mammals, especially goats, rabbits, and camelids. The term may also refer to inorganic materials, such as mineral wool and glass wool, that have properties similar to animal wool. ...
and woollen goods still plays a part in the local economy. One of its most famous products is th
Morella blanket
which has a unique design, with a range of colour combinations and horizontal stripes. Agriculture, especially poultry and pig production are important in the surrounding area with craft products and highly valued
black truffles ''Tuber melanosporum'', called the black truffle, Périgord truffle or French black truffle, is a species of truffle native to Southern Europe. It is one of the most expensive edible mushrooms in the world. Taxonomy Italian naturalist Carlo Vi ...
which are traded at seasonal markets during the winter.


Notable people

* Antonio Royo Marín (1913-April 2005), Spanish Dominican priest and theologian


Gallery

File:Dansa dels Llauradors Sexenni Morella 2006.JPG, Dance of the ''Llauradors'', Sexenni, Morella 2006 File:Morella-Calbo.jpg, Morella in 1845 File:CalleMorella.JPG, Street in Morella File:SantaMariaMorella.JPG, Gate of the Church Santa María la Mayor file:MorellaSantaMariaWindow.jpg,
Alabaster Alabaster is a mineral or rock that is soft, often used for carving, and is processed for plaster powder. Archaeologists and the stone processing industry use the word differently from geologists. The former use it in a wider sense that include ...
windows in Santa Maria La Major church


See also

* Ports (comarca) * Ports de Morella *
Maestrat The Maestrazgo () or Maestrat () is a natural and historical mountainous region, located at the eastern end of the Sistema Ibérico mountain range, in Spain. It encompasses the north of the Autonomous Community of Valencia, in Castellón provin ...
*
Vallivana Vallivana is a small settlement belonging to Morella, Ports (comarca). Description Vallivana is an almost deserted cluster of houses southeast of Morella. It is located at the eastern end of the Dena de Coll i Moll, right by N-232 road betwe ...


References


External links


Web oficial de l'ajuntament de Morella


* ttps://web.archive.org/web/20100618120114/http://www.ive.es/pegv/start.jsp Institut Valencià d'Estadística
Portal de la Direcció General d'Administració Local de la Generalitat
{{DEFAULTSORT:Morella, Castellon Municipalities in the Province of Castellón Ports (comarca)