Muscovy Hat
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Typical of British heraldry, a cap of maintenance, known in heraldic language as a ''chapeau gules turned up ermine'', is a ceremonial cap of
crimson Crimson is a rich, deep red color, inclining to purple. It originally meant the color of the kermes dye produced from a scale insect, ''Kermes vermilio'', but the name is now sometimes also used as a generic term for slightly bluish-red colo ...
velvet Weave details visible on a purple-colored velvet fabric Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word ''velvety'' means ...
lined with ermine, which is worn or carried by certain persons as a sign of nobility or special honour. It is worn with the high part to the fore, the tapering tail behind. It may substitute for the torse (a twisted roll of fabric) in the
heraldic achievement In heraldry, an achievement, armorial achievement or heraldic achievement (historical: hatchment) is a full display or depiction of all the heraldic components to which the bearer of a coat of arms is entitled. An achievement comprises not only ...
of a person of special honour granted the privilege by the monarch. It thus appears in such cases on top of the
helm Helm may refer to: Common meanings * a ship's steering mechanism; see tiller and ship's wheel * another term for helmsman * an archaic term for a helmet, used as armor Arts and entertainment * Matt Helm, a character created by Donald Hamilton * ...
and below the
crest Crest or CREST may refer to: Buildings *The Crest (Huntington, New York), a historic house in Suffolk County, New York *"The Crest", an alternate name for 63 Wall Street, in Manhattan, New York *Crest Castle (Château Du Crest), Jussy, Switzerla ...
. It does not, however, feature in the present
royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom The royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom, or the royal arms for short, is the arms of dominion of the British monarch, currently King Charles III. These arms are used by the King in his official capacity as monarch of the United Kingdom. Varian ...
, which shows the royal crest upon the royal crown, itself upon the royal helmet.


Origins

The origin of this symbol of dignity is obscure. One might speculate that the origin relates to the Old French verb ''maintenir'' – "to hold" or "to keep". A purpose of the cap was to keep a crown or coronet secure (and comfortable) on the head, thus its function was simply to "maintain" the coronet in place. The granting of the cap as an honour might refer specifically to the red velvet and/or ermine trim, distinct from a simpler design of cap.


Royal insignia

According to the ''
Oxford English Dictionary The ''Oxford English Dictionary'' (''OED'') is the first and foundational historical dictionary of the English language, published by Oxford University Press (OUP). It traces the historical development of the English language, providing a com ...
'' a cap of maintenance was granted by the
pope The pope ( la, papa, from el, πάππας, translit=pappas, 'father'), also known as supreme pontiff ( or ), Roman pontiff () or sovereign pontiff, is the bishop of Rome (or historically the patriarch of Rome), head of the worldwide Cathol ...
to both Kings Henry VII and to his son King
Henry VIII Henry VIII (28 June 149128 January 1547) was King of England from 22 April 1509 until his death in 1547. Henry is best known for his six marriages, and for his efforts to have his first marriage (to Catherine of Aragon) annulled. His disa ...
as a mark of special privilege. A cap of maintenance is one of the insignia of the
British sovereign The monarchy of the United Kingdom, commonly referred to as the British monarchy, is the constitutional form of government by which a hereditary sovereign reigns as the head of state of the United Kingdom, the Crown Dependencies (the Bailiwi ...
, and is carried directly before the monarch at the
State Opening of Parliament The State Opening of Parliament is a ceremonial event which formally marks the beginning of a session of the Parliament of the United Kingdom. It includes a speech from the throne known as the King's (or Queen's) Speech. The event takes place ...
, nowadays usually by the Leader of the House of Lords. Kings of the
United Kingdom The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom (UK) or Britain, is a country in Europe, off the north-western coast of the continental mainland. It comprises England, Scotland, Wales and North ...
wear a cap of maintenance at their
coronation A coronation is the act of placement or bestowal of a coronation crown, crown upon a monarch's head. The term also generally refers not only to the physical crowning but to the whole ceremony wherein the act of crowning occurs, along with the ...
, prior to the anointing, as seen most recently at the
Coronation of King George VI The coronation of the British monarch, coronation of George VI and his wife, Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, Elizabeth, as King of the United Kingdom, King and Queen consort of the United Kingdom, Queen of the United Kingdom and Commonwealth r ...
: it is worn for the journey to
Westminster Abbey Westminster Abbey, formally titled the Collegiate Church of Saint Peter at Westminster, is an historic, mainly Gothic church in the City of Westminster, London, England, just to the west of the Palace of Westminster. It is one of the United ...
, for the Procession inside the Abbey and then when seated in the Chair of Estate during the first part of the coronation service.
Queens regnant A queen regnant (plural: queens regnant) is a female monarch, equivalent in rank and title to a king, who reigns ''suo jure'' (in her own right) over a realm known as a "kingdom"; as opposed to a queen consort, who is the wife of a reigning ...
do not wear them on such occasions, but wear instead a diadem, as in the case of Queen
Elizabeth II Elizabeth II (Elizabeth Alexandra Mary; 21 April 1926 – 8 September 2022) was Queen of the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth realms from 6 February 1952 until her death in 2022. She was queen regnant of 32 sovereign states during ...
who wore the
George IV State Diadem The George IV State Diadem, officially the Diamond Diadem, is a crown that was made in 1820 for King George IV. The diadem is worn by queens and queens consort in procession to coronations and State Openings of Parliament. It has been featured in ...
before her coronation.


Lining of peer's coronet

In more general terms, the velvet and ermine lining of a crown (or of the coronet of a peer) is itself sometimes called a 'cap of maintenance', and is technically a separate item from the crown itself. It may have had a purely practical origin being used to help a crown fit more firmly or to protect the head from bare metal on the crown. As peers' coronets are displayed affronté, or facing forward, the only visible parts are the front of the ermine trim and the velvet top (with a gold tassel) – the ermine tails would be invisible.


Confusion with "Muscovy hat"

A number of English cities and towns refer to the use of a "cap of maintenance" as worn by a ceremonial officer, most usually a swordbearer. These are based most often on a design worn by the swordbearer of the Lord Mayor of the City of London. However, this item is called by the
City of London The City of London is a city, ceremonial county and local government district that contains the historic centre and constitutes, alongside Canary Wharf, the primary central business district (CBD) of London. It constituted most of London fr ...
authorities a "Muscovy hat" and is a historic reference to the medieval trade with the Baltic. In the 17th and 18th centuries a Muscovy hat was sometimes depicted above the coat of arms of the City of London, in place of the more conventional helm and crest of a dragon's wing charged with a red cross. The confusion as to nomenclature stems from references in early borough charters granting the right to the use of a ceremonial sword which often mentioned in addition the right to a cap of maintenance. However, this was intended to mean that in civic processions a cap of maintenance should be carried along with the sword (and mace), signifying that the mayor was the sovereign's representative. The correct form of use can be seen at the
State Opening of Parliament The State Opening of Parliament is a ceremonial event which formally marks the beginning of a session of the Parliament of the United Kingdom. It includes a speech from the throne known as the King's (or Queen's) Speech. The event takes place ...
, where it is carried alongside the Sword of State in front of the monarch. It would be quite improper for a
commoner A commoner, also known as the ''common man'', ''commoners'', the ''common people'' or the ''masses'', was in earlier use an ordinary person in a community or nation who did not have any significant social status, especially a member of neither ...
to actually wear it.


Variants

In many English towns where the privilege of a sword was granted by the Crown (for example York, Bristol, Coventry, Lincoln, Newcastle upon Tyne, Norwich, Worcester, Hereford, Exeter and Hull) the swordbearer wears a variant of the City of London Muscovy Hat, although some wear other sorts of eccentric headgear which they mistakenly also call a "cap of maintenance". However, the 'grant' is a grant of arms and a heraldic charge rather than an actual object.


City of York usage

The City of York claims to possess an original medieval cap of maintenance, which is kept and displayed in the Mansion House; whatever its origin, it is in fact a "
Bycocket A bycocket or bycoket is a style of hat that was fashionable for both men and women in Western Europe from the 13th to the 16th century. It has a wide brim that is turned up in the back and pointed in the front like a bird's beak. In French, it is ...
" or " Robin Hood" style of cap with ermine trimmings forming into a split peak at the back and was copied from an heraldic drawing and not from a genuine cap of maintenance. Caps of this style are still worn by the York Swordbearers. The City of York claims the grant of a cap of maintenance from the Yorkist King
Richard III Richard III (2 October 145222 August 1485) was King of England and Lord of Ireland from 26 June 1483 until his death in 1485. He was the last king of the House of York and the last of the Plantagenet dynasty. His defeat and death at the Battl ...
(1483–1485)The History of York website, also claims this as a grant from King Richard II in 1393—almost 90 years earlier than Richard III; se
York's coat of arms
/ref> and incorporates this into its coat of arms as a quasi-crest but reverses it so that the tail or peak faces to
dexter Dexter may refer to: Arts and entertainment * Dexter, the main character of the American animated series ''Dexter's Laboratory'' that aired from 1996 to 2003 * Dexter, a fictional character in the British Diary of a Bad Man#Main, web series ''Diar ...
(viewer's left), thus further compounding the confusion.


References


External links


The Crown, Cap and Sword
get their own coach on a trip to the
Palace of Westminster The Palace of Westminster serves as the meeting place for both the House of Commons of the United Kingdom, House of Commons and the House of Lords, the two houses of the Parliament of the United Kingdom. Informally known as the Houses of Parli ...
.
The cap of maintenance
and the Sword of State are carried before the Queen in the procession of the
State Opening of Parliament The State Opening of Parliament is a ceremonial event which formally marks the beginning of a session of the Parliament of the United Kingdom. It includes a speech from the throne known as the King's (or Queen's) Speech. The event takes place ...
.
George VI pictured in crimson robe and cap of maintenance ready for his coronation
{{Hats Caps Headgear in heraldry State ritual and ceremonies