Terry "Mugs" Stump (August 28, 1949 – May 21, 1992) was a noted American
rock climber and
mountaineer, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the
Alaska Range and the
Canadian Rockies
The Canadian Rockies (french: Rocheuses canadiennes) or Canadian Rocky Mountains, comprising both the Alberta Rockies and the British Columbian Rockies, is the Canadian segment of the North American Rocky Mountains. It is the easternmost part ...
. He died from falling into a
crevasse while descending the South Buttress of
Denali on May 21, 1992 while guiding clients Bob Hoffman and Nelson Max.
He is most noted for the first ascent of the ''Emperor Face'' on
Mount Robson with Jim Logan, and for three routes in the
Alaska Range, the ''East Face'' of
The Moose's Tooth, the ''Moonflower Buttress'' on
Mount Hunter, and a one-day solo of
Denali's ''Cassin Ridge''.
Climber
Conrad Anker credits Stump as an influential climbing mentor in the film ''
Meru''.
Stump, along with his geologist brother, contributed to field safety for the
United States Antarctic Program scientists and other working on the continent for the
National Science Foundation.
The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award for aspiring alpine climbers is named in his honor.
Early life
Mugs was born in
Mifflintown, Pennsylvania
Mifflintown is a borough in and the county seat of Juniata County, Pennsylvania, United States. The population was 842 at the 2020 census.
Geography
Mifflintown is located at (40.570728, -77.395488).
According to the United States Census ...
, where he grew up fishing, hunting, and camping with his father Warren and three brothers.
First ascents and notable ascents
* 1978 ''Stump/Logan'', Emperor Face, Mount Robson (VI 5.9 A2 2500m) with Jim Logan.
* 1981 ''Dance of the Woo Li Masters'', East Face of
The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, USA (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with
Jim Bridwell
* 1981 ''Moonflower Buttress'', North Buttress of
Mount Hunter, Alaska Range (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6, 6100') with Paul Aubrey(NZ). FA to ridge crest.
* 1987 ''South Face'' Broken Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range (IV 5.10+ A3). FA with Steve Quinlan
* 1990 ''Rodeo Queen'', Streaked Wall,
Zion National Park, FA with
Conrad Anker
* 1991 ''Freezer Burn'' aka ''Free or Burn'' (IV 5.11+), East Temple,
Zion National Park, Utah; FFA with Lynn Wheeler
*1992 First winter ascent of Hallucinogin Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, with John Middendorf. First Time a major Black Canyon big wall ascended in winter.
References
External links
The Dream – A Journey of the Spirit with Mugs Stumpmugs
American mountain climbers
American rock climbers
Mountaineering deaths
1992 deaths
1949 births
People from Juniata County, Pennsylvania
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