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Between 1874 and 1877
Henry Morton Stanley Sir Henry Morton Stanley (born John Rowlands; 28 January 1841 – 10 May 1904) was a Welsh-American explorer, journalist, soldier, colonial administrator, author and politician who was famous for his exploration of Central Africa and his sear ...
traveled
Central Africa Central Africa is a subregion of the African continent comprising various countries according to different definitions. Angola, Burundi, the Central African Republic, Chad, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the Republic of the Co ...
east to west, exploring
Lake Victoria Lake Victoria is one of the African Great Lakes. With a surface area of approximately , Lake Victoria is Africa's largest lake by area, the world's largest tropical lake, and the world's second-largest fresh water lake by surface area after ...
,
Lake Tanganyika Lake Tanganyika () is an African Great Lake. It is the second-oldest freshwater lake in the world, the second-largest by volume, and the second-deepest, in all cases after Lake Baikal in Siberia. It is the world's longest freshwater lake. T ...
and the Lualaba and Congo rivers. He covered from
Zanzibar Zanzibar (; ; ) is an insular semi-autonomous province which united with Tanganyika in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanzania. It is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of the mainland, and consists of many small islan ...
in the east to Boma at the mouth of the Congo in the west. The expedition resolved several open questions concerning the geography of Central Africa, including identifying the source of the
Nile The Nile, , Bohairic , lg, Kiira , Nobiin: Áman Dawū is a major north-flowing river in northeastern Africa. It flows into the Mediterranean Sea. The Nile is the longest river in Africa and has historically been considered the longest riv ...
, which he proved was not the Lualabab and is in fact the source of the Congo River.


Previous African journey

This was Stanley's second journey in central Africa. In 1871–72 he had searched for and successfully found the missionary and explorer
David Livingstone David Livingstone (; 19 March 1813 – 1 May 1873) was a Scottish physician, Congregationalist, and pioneer Christian missionary with the London Missionary Society, an explorer in Africa, and one of the most popular British heroes of t ...
. In his publications, Stanley described greeting him with the famous words: "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?", but his report in this is disputed.


Objectives

Stanley's journey had four principal aims, to: # Explore
Lake Victoria Lake Victoria is one of the African Great Lakes. With a surface area of approximately , Lake Victoria is Africa's largest lake by area, the world's largest tropical lake, and the world's second-largest fresh water lake by surface area after ...
and its inflowing and outflowing rivers # Explore Lake Albert and its inflowing and outflowing rivers # Explore
Lake Tanganyika Lake Tanganyika () is an African Great Lake. It is the second-oldest freshwater lake in the world, the second-largest by volume, and the second-deepest, in all cases after Lake Baikal in Siberia. It is the world's longest freshwater lake. T ...
, determining the direction of flow of the
Ruzizi River The Ruzizi (also sometimes spelled Rusizi) is a river, long, that flows from Lake Kivu to Lake Tanganyika in Central Africa, descending from about to about above sea level over its length. The steepest gradients occur over the first , where ...
at the north end of the lake # Explore the Lualaba River downstream towards its outflow There was controversy among earlier explorers as to whether these lakes and rivers were connected to each other and the Nile. Richard Burton thought that Lake Victoria might have a southern inlet, possibly from Lake Albert, meaning that the source of the Nile was not Lake Victoria as explorer John Speke had argued.
Samuel Baker Sir Samuel White Baker, KCB, FRS, FRGS (8 June 1821 – 30 December 1893) was an English explorer, officer, naturalist, big game hunter, engineer, writer and abolitionist. He also held the titles of Pasha and Major-General in the Ottom ...
thought that Lake Albert might have an inlet from Lake Tanganyika. Livingstone thought that Lualaba was the source of the Nile. Being sponsored by the ''
New York Herald The ''New York Herald'' was a large-distribution newspaper based in New York City that existed between 1835 and 1924. At that point it was acquired by its smaller rival the '' New-York Tribune'' to form the '' New York Herald Tribune''. Hi ...
''—at the instigation of editor James Gordon Bennett Jr.—and ''The'' ''Daily Telegraph'' newspapers, Stanley he was expected to write dispatches for them. He subsequently wrote a book of his experiences, ''Through the Dark Continent''.


Preparations

On September 21, 1874, Stanley arrived in
Zanzibar Zanzibar (; ; ) is an insular semi-autonomous province which united with Tanganyika in 1964 to form the United Republic of Tanzania. It is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of the mainland, and consists of many small islan ...
. He took with him three young Englishmen, Frederick Barker and the brothers Francis and Edward Pocock, and Kalulu, an African he had taken to England on his earlier trip and who was educated briefly in England. He also took 60 pounds of cloth, copper wire and beads (Sami Sami) for trading, a
barometer A barometer is a scientific instrument that is used to measure air pressure in a certain environment. Pressure tendency can forecast short term changes in the weather. Many measurements of air pressure are used within surface weather analysis ...
, watches and chronometers,
sextant A sextant is a doubly reflecting navigation instrument that measures the angular distance between two visible objects. The primary use of a sextant is to measure the angle between an astronomical object and the horizon for the purposes of ce ...
, compasses, photographic equipment, Snider rifles and elephant gun(s), and the parts of a boat with single sail built by
James Messenger James Arthur Messenger (26 February 1826 in Twickenham – 21 June 1901 in Teddington) was the professional single sculls world champion from 1854 to 1857. He served as the Queen's Bargemaster from 1862 to 1901. He resided in Teddington. In 185 ...
. He named it the ''Lady Alice'' after his fiancée. In Zanzibar he recruited African porters to a total of 230 people, including 36 women and 10 boys. He recruited mainly from the Wangwana, Wanyamwezi and coast people from
Mombasa Mombasa ( ; ) is a coastal city in southeastern Kenya along the Indian Ocean. It was the first capital of the British East Africa, before Nairobi was elevated to capital city status. It now serves as the capital of Mombasa County. The town ...
.Stanley, H.M., 1899, Through the Dark Continent, London: G. Newnes, Vol. One , Vol. Two On November 12 he left in Zanzibar for the mainland. Five days later he left from
Bagamoyo Bagamoyo, is a historic coastal town founded at the end of the 18th century, though it is an extension of a much older (8th century) Swahili settlement, Kaole. It was chosen as the capital of German East Africa by the German colonial administra ...
. After fighting with Wanyaturu, they reached Lake Victoria on February 27, 1875, having traveled in 103 days. Sixty-two members of the party died en route, including Edward Pocock.


Circumnavigation of Lake Victoria

On March 8 Stanley, with ten sailors and a steersman, left his camp site near Kageghi in ''Lady Alice''. They explored and named Speke Bay, after the first European to see the lake. They also discovered the
Simiyu River The Simiyu River is a river located in Simiyu Region and Arusha Region, Tanzania. It flows into Lake Victoria in the African Great Lakes region. As one of the six main inlets to Lake Victoria, it forms part of the upper headwaters of the Nile. The ...
inlet in the south. Passing Ukerewe Island, he was attacked by Wavuma people in canoes but escaped after firing at his attackers. On April 4 he landed on the northern bank near the Ripon Falls, the only outlet of the lake, which had been identified as the source of the Nile by Speke. He was received as a royal guest by
Muteesa I of Buganda Muteesa I Mukaabya Walugembe Kayiira (1837–9 October 1884) was the 30th Kabaka of the Kingdom of Buganda, from 1856 until 1884. Biography He was born at the Batandabezaala Palace, at Mulago, in 1837. He was the son of Kabaka Ssuuna II Kalem ...
. Stanley wrote that
Buganda Buganda is a Bantu kingdom within Uganda. The kingdom of the Baganda people, Buganda is the largest of the traditional kingdoms in present-day East Africa, consisting of Buganda's Central Region, including the Ugandan capital Kampala. The 14 mi ...
would be an ideal country to establish missions and for European trade. On April 21 Stanley's party headed further southward. First they reached the inlet of the
Kagera River The Kagera River, also known as Akagera River, or Alexandra Nile, is an East African river, forming part of the upper headwaters of the Nile and carrying water from its most distant source.Stanley, H.M., 1899, Through the Dark Continent, London: G ...
, which they would later explore on their way to Lake Albert. In an attempt to get supplies of food, they landed on the island of Bumbireh. The local inhabitants alternated peace talks with thefts and threats, and stole their canoe paddles. Ultimately the crew escaped, killing some locals in the process. Later Stanley wrote that he killed 10 (and elsewhere 14) in his dispatches to newspapers. This would later be used to traduce his character as a ruthless killer. Why he misstated the number of deaths is not clear; his biographer Tim Jeal has tried to clarify. On May 5, the party arrived back in Kagehyi and rejoined the main group. In the meantime Barker had died of disease, as had Mabuki Speke (who was on earlier travels with Livingstone, Speke,
James Grant James Grant may refer to: Politics and law * Sir James Grant, 1st Baronet (died 1695), Scottish lawyer *Sir James Grant, 6th Baronet (1679–1747), Scottish Whig politician *Sir James Grant, 8th Baronet (1738–1811), Scottish member of parliament ...
, and Burton). Stanley had spent 57 days exploring Lake Victoria. His detailed measurements and descriptions led to a major revision of its geography. He established that the Kagera River was its main inflow, and that it was above sea level, with a maximum depth of .


Lake Albert

Stanley intended to explore Lake Albert next. However, war between Uganda and Wavuma forced him either to "renounce the project of exploring the Albert, and proceed at once to the Tanganika...or to wait patiently until the war was over." After the war ended with an Ugandan victory, however, his expedition was thwarted by Kabarega, king of the
Bunyoro Bunyoro or Bunyoro-Kitara is a Bantu kingdom in Western Uganda. It was one of the most powerful kingdoms in Central and East Africa from the 13th century to the 19th century. It is ruled by the King ('' Omukama'') of Bunyoro-Kitara. The curre ...
.


Lake Tanganyika

On May 27, 1876, the party arrived in Ujiji on the shore of Lake Tanganyika, the village where Stanley had famously met Livingstone a few years before. Their objective was to survey the lake, seeking inlets and outlets. By July 31 the of the lake perimeter was charted. Its main outlet was found to be the Lukuga River on the western shore. The depth of the lake was measured to be in excess of .


Rivers Lualaba and Congo

The final objective was to determine whether the Lualaba River fed the Nile, the Congo or even the Niger. On August 25, 1876, Stanley left Ujiji with an expedition of 132, crossing the lake westward to
Manyema Manyema (WaManyema) (Una-Ma-Nyema, eaters of flesh), are a powerful and, in the past, warlike Bantu people in the southeast of the Congo basin in Nyangwe (Kasongo) in Maniema, Democratic Republic of Congo and in the city of Kigoma, Kigoma region o ...
, to enter the heart of Africa. In October they reached the
confluence In geography, a confluence (also: ''conflux'') occurs where two or more flowing bodies of water join to form a single channel. A confluence can occur in several configurations: at the point where a tributary joins a larger river (main stem); o ...
of the Luama River and the Lualaba River. Entering Manyema, they were in a lawless area containing cannibal tribes. Tippu Tip based his source of slaves here. Also, Livingstone had witnessed a massacre of Africans here and did not succeed in getting any further. Nor had Vernon Cameron in 1874. However Stanley reached a contract with Tippu Tip, in which they agreed to accompany each other for "sixty marches-each march of four hours' duration." They reached Nyangwe on October 28. The party left Nyangwe overland and entered the dense Matimba forest on November 6. On November 19 they reached the Lualaba again where Stanley proceeded downstream with ''Lady Alice'', and Tippu Tip kept pace on the eastern shore. They traversed through the lands of the cannibal Wenya. Though he attempted to negotiate a peaceful thoroughfare, the tribes were wary as their only experience of outsiders was of slave traders. They reached Kindu on December 5, 1876, but it was not until they reached Vinya-Njara that Stanley could conclude a " blood-brotherhood" with the natives and peace ensued. Tippu Tip left Stanley at this point, while Stanley departed downstream on December 28 with 149 men, women and children on 23 canoes. On January 6, 1877, after , they reached Boyoma Falls (called Stanley Falls for some time after), consisting of seven cataracts spanning , and the confluence of the Lomami River. It took them until January 28 to reach the end of the falls, sometimes passing overland and having to defend themselves from attacks by the cannibal natives. Stanley reached the confluence of the
Aruwimi River The Aruwimi River is a tributary of the Congo River, located to the north and east of the Congo.Stanley, H.M., 1899, Through the Dark Continent, London: G. Newnes, Vol. One , Vol. Two The Aruwimi begins as the Ituri River, which rises near Lak ...
on February 1 and then the land of the Bemberri cannibals. Finally at the village of Rubunga, they were able to enter into a blood-brotherhood with the natives. Here Stanley learned that the river was called ''Ikuta ya Kongo'', proving to him that he had reached the Congo, and that the Lualaba did not feed the Nile. Stanley was then attacked by the Urangi and then the Marunja, both of whom possessed Portuguese muskets. His thirty-first fight along the river was with the Bangala on February 14, facing 63 canoes and 315 muskets. On February 18 they reached the confluence of the Ikelemba River and were able to trade at Ikengo. By February 26 they reached
Bolobo Bolobo is a town on the Congo River in Mai-Ndombe Province in the western part of the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). It is the administrative center of Bolobo Territory. As of 2009 it had an estimated population of 31,366. People The pr ...
, where they were welcomed by the king of Chumbiri. They reached the confluence of the
Lefini River Lefini River is a river of the Republic of Congo and a tributary of the Congo River. Henry Morton Stanley reached the confluence In geography, a confluence (also: ''conflux'') occurs where two or more flowing bodies of water join to form a s ...
and the
Kasai River The Kasai River ( ; called Cassai in Angola) is a tributary (left side) of the Congo River, located in Central Africa. The river begins in central Angola and flows to the east until it reaches the border between Angola and the Democratic Repub ...
with the Congo on March 9. This was the location of their thirty-second and last fight. On March 12, they reached Stanley Pool (now
Pool Malebo The Pool Malebo, formerly Stanley Pool, also known as Mpumbu, Lake Nkunda or Lake Nkuna by local indigenous people in pre-colonial times, is a lake-like widening in the lower reaches of the Congo River.
). Here Stanley met with Mankoneh, the
Bateke The Teke people or Bateke, also known as the Tyo or Tio, are a Bantu Central African ethnic group that speak the Teke languages and that mainly inhabit the south, north, and center of the Republic of the Congo, the west of the Democratic Republi ...
chief and Itsi, chief of the Ntamo, forming a blood-brotherhood. This is the site of the present day cities Kinshasa and Brazzaville, capitals of the
Democratic Republic of the Congo The Democratic Republic of the Congo (french: République démocratique du Congo (RDC), colloquially "La RDC" ), informally Congo-Kinshasa, DR Congo, the DRC, the DROC, or the Congo, and formerly and also colloquially Zaire, is a country in ...
and the Republic of the Congo. Further downstream were the
Livingstone Falls Livingstone Falls (French: ''Chutes Livingstone''; Dutch: ''Livingstonewatervallen''), named for British explorer David Livingstone, are a succession of enormous rapids on the lower course of the Congo River in west equatorial Africa, downs ...
, downstream from Nyangwe, a series of 32 falls and rapids with a fall of over . On March 16 they started the descent of the falls, which cost numerous lives, including those of Frank Pocock and Kalulu, his England-educated servant. On 30 July, Stanley stated, "We drew our boat and canoes into a sandy-edged basin in the low rocky terrace, and proceeded to view the cataract of Isangila." Only five days' journey from Boma, Stanley stated, "I saw no reason to follow it farther, or to expend the little remaining vitality we possessed in toiling through the last four cataracts." On August 3 they reached the village of Nsanda. From there Stanley sent forward four trusted men to Boma with letters in English, French and Spanish, asking them to send food for his starving people. On August 6 relief came, being sent by representatives from the Liverpool trading firm Hatton & Cookson. August 9 they reached Boma, 999 days since leaving Zanzibar on November 12, 1874. The party then consisted of 115 people, including three children born during the trip. Most probably (Stanley's own publications give inconsistent figures), he lost 132 people through disease, hunger, drowning, killing and desertion. Some 18 deserted, a low figure given the dangers of the country they had crossed.Jeal, 2007 p. 217.


Return

In Boma he mailed his editor Bennett in New York to send money for his party and arrange homeward travel. He also learned through his publisher that his fiancée Alice had married another man. They left Boma for
Kabinda Kabinda is the capital city of Lomami Province in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Projected to be the second fastest growing African continent city between 2020 and 2025, with a 6.37% growth. Geography Kabinda is served by Tunta Airpor ...
, arriving on August 12. Eventually the party went to
Luanda Luanda () is the Capital (political), capital and largest city in Angola. It is Angola's primary port, and its major Angola#Economy, industrial, Angola#Culture, cultural and Angola#Demographics, urban centre. Located on Angola's northern Atl ...
, Angola, arriving on September 28. From there they went on to
Simon's Town Simon's Town ( af, Simonstad), sometimes spelled Simonstown, is a town in the Western Cape, South Africa and is home to  Naval Base Simon's Town, the South African Navy's largest base. It is located on the shores of False Bay, on the eastern ...
on October 21, and finally Zanzibar, via HMS ''Industry'', arriving on November 26. On December 13, Stanley left Zanzibar on SS ''Pachumba'' for home, being carried on his men's shoulders to the longboat ferrying him to the ship. In articles about his discoveries he urged Western powers to organise trade with Central Africa and reduce the slave trade in the interior. Stanley's book ''Through the Dark Continent'', describing his journey, was published in 1878 and was a great success.


Notes


References

* * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Stanley, Trans-Africa Henry Morton Stanley Lake Victoria Lake Tanganyika Lualaba River Congo River New York Herald 1870s in Africa 1874 in Africa 1877 in Africa