Metal Lace
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Metal lace describes a type of lace made from metal or metallic threads, such as gold, silver, or copper. The designs can be worked on a textile ground, or the lace can completely be made from metallic threads. It is mainly used as an embellishment for military uniforms, fashionable, ceremonial and theatrical dress, and ecclesiastical textiles.


Gold lace

Lace made using gold wire has been produced since antiquity, with examples of gold netting found in
Egyptian Egyptian describes something of, from, or related to Egypt. Egyptian or Egyptians may refer to: Nations and ethnic groups * Egyptians, a national group in North Africa ** Egyptian culture, a complex and stable culture with thousands of years of ...
and Assyrian tombs from 1500 to 1000 BCE. It was mainly produced as an embellishment for religious vestments and high status garments. Metal lace, including gold and silver
point de Venise Point de Venise is a Venice, Venetian needle lace from the 17th century characterized by scrolling floral patterns with additional floral motifs worked in relief (in contrast with the geometric designs of the earlier reticella). By the 1650–1700 ...
, was produced in Italy until the 15th century, when high taxation and
sumptuary law Sumptuary laws (from Latin ''sūmptuāriae lēgēs'') are laws that try to regulate consumption. '' Black's Law Dictionary'' defines them as "Laws made for the purpose of restraining luxury or extravagance, particularly against inordinate expendi ...
s led to textile threads such as linen replacing the use of metal. To avoid these costs, the production of metal lace moved to France, where a high demand by royalty and the French aristocracy led to
Arras Arras ( , ; pcd, Aro; historical nl, Atrecht ) is the prefecture of the Pas-de-Calais Departments of France, department, which forms part of the regions of France, region of Hauts-de-France; before the regions of France#Reform and mergers of ...
,
Aurillac Aurillac (; oc, Orlhac ) is the prefecture of the Cantal department, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France. The inhabitants of the commune are known as ''Aurillacois'' or ''Aurillacoises''. Geography Aurillac is at above sea leve ...
and other locations becoming renowned for gold lace production. From the 15th century on, most metal lace was a combination of metal and textile threads, rather than made of pure metal. ''Orris'' is another term for gold or silver lace, used especially in the 18th century; the term derived from
Arras lace Arras lace refers to a form of pure white bobbin lace that was made at Arras, France, from the 17th to 19th centuries. It is similar to, but stronger than Lille lace Lille lace was a type of bobbin lace that was made at Lille, also known as R ...
, made in
Arras Arras ( , ; pcd, Aro; historical nl, Atrecht ) is the prefecture of the Pas-de-Calais Departments of France, department, which forms part of the regions of France, region of Hauts-de-France; before the regions of France#Reform and mergers of ...
, France. Gold lace and braiding was a popular option for military uniforms because it resisted tarnish, unlike other metal laces. Contemporary gold lace usually has a high silver percentage, which can be as high as 90%, with the actual gold content as low as 3%. Much modern gold (and other metal) lace is now manufactured in India. Modern Indian "pure gold lace" is technically made from silver that has been electroplated with gold.


Copper lace

Lace made from copper wire was widely used in Elizabethan era theatre costuming as a substitute for more expensive gold and silver laces. It was a major import, with several tons of copper thread being imported into England between 1594 and 1596, and at the turn of the 16th and 17th centuries, cost between 9 and 16 pennies an ounce. It had a tendency to tarnish, and was less hard-wearing.


Other metals

A type of die stamped metal "lace" was produced in the 19th and 20th century as a trimming for coffins. Coffin lace became a major industry in Birmingham, where its manufacture in the 1860s could use up to 70 tons of tin per year.


Gallery

File:Stomacher with goldwork France.png, Stomacher with goldwork France File:France, Strasbourg, mid-18th century, Period of Louis XV - Cap - 1919.855 - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif, France, Strasbourg, mid-18th century, Period of Louis XV - Cap - 1919.855 - Cleveland Museum of Art File:Glovesvanda.jpg, Gloves, V and A File:Fragment of Lace LACMA M.67.50.7.jpg, Fragment of Lace LACMA M.67.50.7 File:Trimming (Italy), early 17th century (CH 18384469-2).jpg, Trimming (Italy), early 17th century (CH 18384469-2) File:Fragment (Italy), 17th century (CH 18173163-2).jpg, Fragment (Italy), 17th century (CH 18173163-2) File:Length of Lace LACMA M.67.50.15 (1 of 2).jpg, Length of Lace LACMA M.67.50.15 (1 of 2) File:Night cap MET DP159783.jpg, Night cap MET DP159783 File:Cap, 17th–18th century (CH 18344921).jpg, Cap, 17th–18th century (CH 18344921) File:Cap Crown (Austria), 19th century (CH 18562325).jpg, Cap Crown (Austria), 19th century (CH 18562325)


References

{{Lace types , state=collapsed Lace