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McGowan's Pass (sometimes spelled "McGown's") is a topographical feature of
Central Park Central Park is an urban park in New York City located between the Upper West Side, Upper West and Upper East Sides of Manhattan. It is the List of New York City parks, fifth-largest park in the city, covering . It is the most visited urban par ...
in
New York City New York, often called New York City or NYC, is the List of United States cities by population, most populous city in the United States. With a 2020 population of 8,804,190 distributed over , New York City is also the L ...
, just west of
Fifth Avenue Fifth Avenue is a major and prominent thoroughfare in the borough of Manhattan in New York City. It stretches north from Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village to West 143rd Street in Harlem. It is one of the most expensive shopping stre ...
and north of 102nd Street. It has been incorporated into the park's East Drive since the early 1860s. A steep hill descending into a switchback road, it is a popular training route for competitive bicyclists and runners. Although the name is usually omitted from maps today, McGowan's Pass was clearly marked on charts of the region from the Revolutionary War until the early 20th century. It acquired its name from the McGowan or McGown family who kept a tavern near there from 1756 through the
Revolutionary A revolutionary is a person who either participates in, or advocates a revolution. The term ''revolutionary'' can also be used as an adjective, to refer to something that has a major, sudden impact on society or on some aspect of human endeavor. ...
period, and owned the surrounding property until the 1840s. The area was incorporated into Central Park after 1860, when the park's boundaries were extended north from the line of 106th Street to 110th Street, and the Harlem Meer was built in the park's northeast corner.


Colonial era

In Dutch Colonial days, this area of north
Manhattan Manhattan (), known regionally as the City, is the most densely populated and geographically smallest of the five boroughs of New York City. The borough is also coextensive with New York County, one of the original counties of the U.S. state ...
was part of the "commons," land administered by the community of Nieuw Haarlem as a whole. During the late 17th century, as Manhattan passed back and forth between the Dutch and English, the colony of New Harlem lost its autonomy. Common Lands were sold off in 1712. Much of this property in upper Manhattan passed to members of the extensive Benson and Dyckman families, who would continue to own much of northern Manhattan well into the 19th century.James Riker, Revised History of Harlem, 1906. In the 1740s, Jacob Dyckman, Jr. purchased the lands along the Pass from his Uncle George. He planted orchards and built a house and outbuildings, including a public house, "At the Sign of the Black Horse." During a
yellow fever Yellow fever is a viral disease of typically short duration. In most cases, symptoms include fever, chills, loss of appetite, nausea, muscle pains – particularly in the back – and headaches. Symptoms typically improve within five days. In ...
epidemic in 1752, the Colonial Assembly decamped from downtown New York and met in the Black Horse tavern, while boarding a half-mile east at the farm of Dyckman's cousin, Benjamin Benson. In 1756, Dyckman decided to move back north near his family in Spuyten Duyvil, and build a new tavern by the Harlem River. He advertised his Harlem property for sale and sold it a few days later to his in-laws, Daniel McGown (as he spelled himself) and Catherine Benson McGown. With their son Andrew, the McGowns ran the Black Horse tavern until after the Revolutionary War.


Revolutionary War to Civil War

From 1776 until 1783, during the British occupation of New York, McGowan's Pass was a key high-ground position on the route between New York City to the south and Fort Knyphausen ( Fort Washington) to the north. For most of this period, the area around the Pass was the site of a Hessian encampment. After the Treaty of Paris, British and Hessians marched through the Pass when evacuating north Manhattan; and George Washington likewise came through the Pass when he reentered New York on Evacuation Day, November 25, 1783. After the war, John Leggett and his family moved into the Black Horse and managed it as "Leggett's Halfway Tavern." During the
War of 1812 The War of 1812 (18 June 1812 – 17 February 1815) was fought by the United States of America and its indigenous allies against the United Kingdom and its allies in British North America, with limited participation by Spain in Florida. It bega ...
, a series of fortifications and redoubts were put up nearby. These included
Blockhouse No. 1 Blockhouse No. 1, colloquially known as The Blockhouse, is a small fort in the North Woods section of Central Park, Manhattan, New York City. Finished in 1814, the Blockhouse is the second-oldest structure in the park, after Cleopatra's Needle, ...
, completed two days before the war's end in 1814, which still stands on a hill in the North Woods. Also built nearby were Fort Clinton, Fort Fish, and Nutter's Battery along the north side of the Pass, remnants of which can still be seen. There was also a gatehouse straddling the road just east of present-day Lasker Rink, near the grid coordinates of 107th Street and
Lenox Avenue Lenox Avenue – also named Malcolm X Boulevard; both names are officially recognized – is the primary north–south route through Harlem in the upper portion of the New York City borough of Manhattan. This two-way street runs from F ...
(formerly
Sixth Avenue Sixth Avenue – also known as Avenue of the Americas, although this name is seldom used by New Yorkers, p.24 – is a major thoroughfare in New York City's borough of Manhattan, on which traffic runs northbound, or "uptown". It is commercial ...
), where present-day East Drive makes its first downhill switchback. This 1860s route of East Drive was partially constructed over the old earthwork fortifications. The chapel of Mount St. Vincent's Academy, a convent school built around the old McGown house, was built in 1847. It became the U.S. General Hospital or St. Joseph's Military Hospital, during the
American Civil War The American Civil War (April 12, 1861 – May 26, 1865; also known by other names) was a civil war in the United States. It was fought between the Union ("the North") and the Confederacy ("the South"), the latter formed by states th ...
from 1862 to 1865, after the Mount St. Vincent Academy moved north to its present campus in Riverdale. From 1859 to 1863,
Frederick Law Olmsted Frederick Law Olmsted (April 26, 1822August 28, 1903) was an American landscape architect, journalist, social critic, and public administrator. He is considered to be the father of landscape architecture in the USA. Olmsted was famous for co- ...
and his family lived in the Mount St. Vincent's buildings, while Olmsted directed the landscaping of Central Park. The campus existed until 1881.


Post-Civil War

From the 1860s to the 1880s, the Park Commission leased out the old school grounds as a sculpture museum and tavern, while the hill continued to be known as Mount St. Vincent's. When Central Park was being built, a lake called Harlem Meer was constructed from a natural waterway north of McGowan's Pass. A new section of East Drive was made to veer sharply to the west and south and again to the north, bypassing the Meer.


Tavern

A refreshment house, known as Mount St. Vincent's Hotel, opened at McGowan's Pass in 1883–1884. Its proprietor until 1890 was Patrick H. McCann, brother-in-law to local
Tammany Hall Tammany Hall, also known as the Society of St. Tammany, the Sons of St. Tammany, or the Columbian Order, was a New York City political organization founded in 1786 and incorporated on May 12, 1789 as the Tammany Society. It became the main loc ...
leader
Richard Croker Richard Welstead Croker (November 24, 1843 – April 29, 1922), known as "Boss Croker," was an Irish American political boss who was a leader of New York City's Tammany Hall. His control over the city was cemented with the 1897 election of ...
and sometime friend of Hugh Grant, Mayor of New York. During the
Fassett Investigation The Fassett Investigation, or Fassett Committee, was an 1890 probe by the New York State Senate into political corruption in the City of New York. The committee was mainly looking for evidence of bribery among appointed officials and the Board of ...
in 1890, McCann testified that he lost his lease to the tavern because he refused to provide Croker, Grant and their political associates with free entertainment; in retaliation for which Croker and Grant began to bad-mouth the restaurant as a disreputable house patronized by lowlifes. After McCann the tavern was leased by Gabriel Case, and finally by John Scherz. The name of the tavern caused confusion for visiting parents who told their cab driver to take them to Mount St. Vincent's and found themselves at a large, convivial saloon in Central Park, instead of a sedate convent school. Accordingly the Park Commission officially designated the region "McGown's Pass" on maps and signage, and renamed the "Mount St. Vincent's Hotel" roadhouse as "McGown's Pass Tavern."Edward Hagaman Hall
''McGown's Pass and Vicinity''
(NY: 1905), 26, accessed May 8, 2011
The tavern's new name hearkened back to a local watering-hole of a century before, the Black Horse Tavern, popularly known as McGowan's. In 1906 a plaque commemorating the "McGown" family and the Pass was installed nearby at the Fort Clinton memorial. In 1915 the tavern was closed down and its furnishings auctioned off.'' The New York Times'' reported that its equipment, furniture, sporting prints, and "Old Gabe," the tavern's yellow parrot, brought in barely $1,500. The old tavern's driveways and foundations remain in use by the Central Park Conservancy, which uses it as a composting area and has reverted to calling it "The Mount."


References

{{Central Park Central Park