Marie Gudme Leth
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Marie Christine Mathea Gudme Leth (5 October 1895 – 17 December 1997) was a Danish textile printer who pioneered
screen printing Screen printing is a printing technique where a mesh is used to transfer ink (or dye) onto a substrate, except in areas made impermeable to the ink by a blocking stencil. A blade or squeegee is moved across the screen to fill the open mes ...
for industrial production. In 1941, she opened her own workshop where she first concentrated on prints of flowers and animals before turning to more geometrical designs.


Early life

Born in
Aarhus Aarhus (, , ; officially spelled Århus from 1948 until 1 January 2011) is the second-largest city in Denmark and the seat of Aarhus Municipality. It is located on the eastern shore of Jutland in the Kattegat sea and approximately northwest ...
, Leth attended the Industrial Arts and Crafts School for Women before entering the
Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts ( da, Det Kongelige Danske Kunstakademi - Billedkunst Skolerne) has provided education in the arts for more than 250 years, playing its part in the development of the art of Denmark. History The Royal Dani ...
. In 1921, she travelled to
Java Java (; id, Jawa, ; jv, ꦗꦮ; su, ) is one of the Greater Sunda Islands in Indonesia. It is bordered by the Indian Ocean to the south and the Java Sea to the north. With a population of 151.6 million people, Java is the world's List ...
where she spent three years with her sister. There she became acquainted with the Indonesian techniques associated with the production of
batik Batik is an Indonesian technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to the whole cloth. This technique originated from the island of Java, Indonesia. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of the resist with a spouted tool called a ''ca ...
. As it was her ambition to raise the status of textile printing to the level of other crafts, she soon began experimenting with
block printing Woodblock printing or block printing is a technique for printing text, images or patterns used widely throughout East Asia and originating in China in antiquity as a method of printing on textiles and later paper. Each page or image is create ...
. As Denmark lacked an educational venue for printed textiles, she left for
Frankfurt-am-Main Frankfurt, officially Frankfurt am Main (; Hessian dialects, Hessian: , "Franks, Frank ford (crossing), ford on the Main (river), Main"), is the most populous city in the States of Germany, German state of Hesse. Its 791,000 inhabitants as o ...
in 1930, where she studied print colouring at the design school and developed her own approach to colouring."Marie Gudme Leth"
''Dansk Biografisk Leksikon''. Retrieved 23 January 2013.
She returned to Germany in 1934 to study print screening.


Career

In 1931, Leth realized that techniques based on
screen printing Screen printing is a printing technique where a mesh is used to transfer ink (or dye) onto a substrate, except in areas made impermeable to the ink by a blocking stencil. A blade or squeegee is moved across the screen to fill the open mes ...
, which she had experienced while visiting a German factory in 1931, would enable similar industrial methods to be applied to textile printing. As a result, she opened and co-founded ''Dansk Kattuntrykkeri'' (Danish calico printing factory) in 1935. In 1940, once the factory was operating successfully, she opened her own design studio. From 1931 to 1948, she also taught textile printing at the Arts and Crafts School. Her pupils included Dorte Raachou and Rolf Middleboe. Leth patterns, printed on linen or cotton, often worked two shades of one colour, particularly blues or greens. Her earlier block print creations including ''Jagten'', ''Landsby'' and ''Mexico'' were inspired both by Danish themes and by her experiences abroad. They were characterized by simple designs like those in picture books. Her garden animal prints included frog, snail, and snake themes. When using the screen printing technique, she was able to extend her block printing patterns to silhouette-like prints where Danish plant designs intermingled with those from primeval forests, as in her ''Orkidé'' prints. These led in turn to freer, more natural floral designs while her colour combinations evolved from a few contrasting colours to a variety of nuances. In the 1950s, she abandoned her free style, choosing instead strictly geometrical patterns, though she maintained her interest in harmonious colour combinations. In 1955, a journey to
Ravenna Ravenna ( , , also ; rgn, Ravèna) is the capital city of the Province of Ravenna, in the Emilia-Romagna region of Northern Italy. It was the capital city of the Western Roman Empire from 408 until its collapse in 476. It then served as the cap ...
where she experienced the ancient mosaics inspired her to design patterns with four or five colours depicting small medallions, hearts, leaves and wavy lines while later designs such as ''Mariati'' and ''Beirut'' were inspired by a trip to Turkey and the Middle East.Kirsten Toftegaard, "Marie Gudme Leth (1895–1997)"
''Dansk kvindebiografisk leksikon''. Retrieved 23 January 2013.


Exhibitions and awards

From the 1930s, Leth participated in all major exhibitions of Danish design at home and abroad. She was awarded gold medals at the
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in 1937 and at the
Milan Triennale The ''Milan Triennial'' (Triennale di Milano) is an art and design exhibition that takes place every three years at the Triennale di Milano Museum in Milan, Italy. History The exhibition was originally established in 1923 as a biennial architect ...
in 1951. At an exhibition held to commemorate the 25th anniversary of her factory in 1960, it was explained that it was not only Leth's life work which was on display but the history of a new Danish craft. In 1977, a retrospective was held in the
Danish Museum of Art & Design The Designmuseum Denmark () is a museum in Copenhagen for Danish and international design and crafts. It features works of famous Danish designers like Arne Jacobsen, Jacob Jensen and Kaare Klint, who was one of the two architects who remodeled ...
where many of her works can still be seen.


References


External links


Marie Gudme Leths livsværk
illustrated account from Skoletjenesten Kunstindustrimuseet {{DEFAULTSORT:Leth, Marie Gudme Danish textile designers 1895 births 1997 deaths Danish women designers