Marcus Schmuck (18 April 1925 – 21 August 2005) was an
Austria
Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
n
mountaineer
Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...
. In 1957, together with
Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Buhl, to climb the world's 12th highest peak, the
Broad Peak (8,047 metres) in the
Karakoram
The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the ...
in
Pakistan
Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
. The other members of the expedition were:
Fritz Wintersteller and
Kurt Diemberger. In his later years, he successfully organized and led 74 expeditions to the high mountains around the world.
First ascents
*1946 Nördlicher Mandlkopf, Southwest face, V
*1948 Wildalmkirchl, South traverse, V+
*1949 Fleischbank, direct East chimney ("Schmuckkamin"), VI
*Sommerstein, West face, 1. winter ascent
*1953 Birnhorn, South face, 1. winter ascent
*1955 Snökuppelen, North face, IV
*Falkenstein, Southeast ridge, III
*Westbyfijell, South face, III and Southeast ridge, II
*1956 Petit Dru, West face, record time 1.5 days
*
Bischofsmütze direct North face, VI+
*1957 Broad Peak 8047m on 9 June
*
Skil Brum
Skil Brum ( ur, سکل برم), or Skilbrum, is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan, approximately 9 km (5 mi) west-southwest of K2. It lies on the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, roughly opposit ...
7420m on 19 June
*1959 Hoggar Denachnet 2690m, East ridge
*1963 Koh i Sayoz 6920m
*Koh i Shogordok 6855m
*1965 Darban Zom 7220m
*Wildalmkirchl, South traverse
*1982
Muztagh Ata
Muztagh Ata or Muztagata (, Музтағ Ата, literally "ice-mountain-father"; ; formerly known as Mount Tagharma or Taghalma and Wi-tagh) is the second highest (7546 metres) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plate ...
7546m, 3rd ascent, new route
Books
Marcus Schmuck wrote the following book:
* ''Broad Peak 8047m'' Meine Bergfahrten mit
Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
References
External links
Team member of Austrian OEAV Karakoram expedition 1957Skil Brum on Summitpost.org
{{DEFAULTSORT:Schmuck, Marcus
1925 births
2005 deaths
Austrian mountain climbers