Mangalagiri Sarees and Fabrics are produced by performing

handicraft A handicraft, sometimes more precisely expressed as artisanal handicraft or handmade, is any of a wide variety of types of work where useful and decorative objects are made completely by one’s hand or by using only simple, non-automated re ...

weaving Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal th ...

Mangalagiri Mangalagiri is a South Suburb of Vijayawada in Guntur district of Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. The town is a part of Mangalagiri Tadepalle Municipal Corporation and part of Tenali revenue division. It is a major sub urban of Vijayawada and ...

, a town in

Guntur district Guntur district is one of the twenty six districts in the Coastal Andhra region of the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. The administrative seat of the district is located at Guntur, the largest city of the district in terms of area and with a po ...

of the

Indian state India is a federal union comprising 28 states and 8 union territories, with a total of 36 entities. The states and union territories are further subdivided into districts and smaller administrative divisions. History Pre-indepen ...

Andhra Pradesh Andhra Pradesh (, abbr. AP) is a state in the south-eastern coastal region of India. It is the seventh-largest state by area covering an area of and tenth-most populous state with 49,386,799 inhabitants. It is bordered by Telangana to the ...

. It was registered as one of the

in the

geographical indication A geographical indication (GI) is a name or sign used on products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin (e.g., a town, region, or country). The use of a geographical indication, as an indication of the product's source, ...

from Andhra Pradesh by ''Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999''. The Mangalagiri fabric is produced by

with the help of pitlooms from combed yarn by

warp and woof Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is drawn ...

interlacing. The fabric then undergoes the process of

dyeing Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular ...

. The ''Nizam design'' is another characteristic of the fabric.

History

The occupation of weaving is as old as 400 years as per some inscriptions found at this region. There was a migratory period for the weavers during the rule of

Qutub Shahi The Qutb Shahi dynasty also called as Golconda Sultanate (Persian: ''Qutb Shāhiyān'' or ''Sultanat-e Golkonde'') was a Persianate Shia Islam dynasty of Turkoman origin that ruled the sultanate of Golkonda in southern India. After the coll ...

due to increase in taxes.

Stages of production

The production of the Mangalagiri sari includes different stages which includes: *''Raw materials'' – pure

cotton yarn Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactur ...

, silver and gold zaris, synthetic and natural dyes and some chemicals. *''Cotton purification'' – This process involves boiling of hank cotton to remove certain impurities, soaked overnight, rinsed and made suitable for dyeing process. *''Dyeing'' – it involves

bleach Bleach is the generic name for any chemical product that is used industrially or domestically to remove color (whitening) from a fabric or fiber or to clean or to remove stains in a process called bleaching. It often refers specifically, to ...

ing technique for white saris and for colored ones,

Vat A value-added tax (VAT), known in some countries as a goods and services tax (GST), is a type of tax that is assessed incrementally. It is levied on the price of a product or service at each stage of production, distribution, or sale to the en ...

dyes are used. *''Removal of excess dye'' – dyed or bleached yarn undergoes soaking in boiling water with some techniques to cut out excess dyeing. *''Drying'' – after the above process, the yarn is dried and also adds light sensitive colors in shades Pre-loom process *''Winding of hank yarn into warp and weft'' – charka, shift bamboo and

bobbin A bobbin or spool is a spindle or cylinder, with or without flanges, on which yarn, thread, wire, tape or film is wound. Bobbins are typically found in industrial textile machinery, as well as in sewing machines, fishing reels, tape measure ...

are used to form

warp Warp, warped or warping may refer to: Arts and entertainment Books and comics * WaRP Graphics, an alternative comics publisher * ''Warp'' (First Comics), comic book series published by First Comics based on the play ''Warp!'' * Warp (comics), a ...

. While, the

weft Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is draw ...

is made with help of a pirn. *''Street sizing'' – the warp extension, spraying of rice conjee ensures suitable weaving followed by drying. *''Weaving process'' – it involves

Warp and Weft Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is drawn ...

method of weaving and sometimes replaced by

Jacquard weaving The Jacquard machine () is a device fitted to a loom that simplifies the process of manufacturing textiles with such complex patterns as brocade, damask and matelassé. The resulting ensemble of the loom and Jacquard machine is then called a J ...

. Usage of only pitlooms for weaving, designing and cutting per the goods demand undertakes *''Cutting & folding'' – woven cloth undergoes cutting per the goods demand *''Inspection of sarees'' – inspection by the master weaver to rectify flaws *''Marketing'' – the period of 1985 bought revolution with new market for dress materials than the saris

Sarees

Mangalagiri saris are unique variety, woven from cotton and has the most characteristic features such like

zari ''Zari'' (or ''jari'') is an even thread traditionally made of fine gold or silver used in traditional Indian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani garments, especially as brocade in saris etc. This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily silk, to make in ...

on the border and no woven designs on the body. As the town is also the abode of Lord Narasimha Temple, the saris are also used by the devotees for devotional purposes.

References

{{Sari Geographical indications in Andhra Pradesh Guntur district Saris Culture of Andhra Pradesh Amaravati

History

Stages of production

Sarees

See also

References