Malcolm Smith (born 1973,

Dunbar Dunbar () is a town on the North Sea coast in East Lothian in the south-east of Scotland, approximately east of Edinburgh and from the English border north of Berwick-upon-Tweed. Dunbar is a former royal burgh, and gave its name to an ecc ...

Scotland Scotland (, ) is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. Covering the northern third of the island of Great Britain, mainland Scotland has a Anglo-Scottish border, border with England to the southeast ...

) is a Scottish

rock climber Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically an ...

and climbing, competition climber who in 2002, won the

bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help se ...

IFSC Climbing World Cup The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competit ...

. Smith is known for tough training regimes his

; he is one of only a handful of climbers to have repeated

Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes, and also for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is consi ...

's boulder problem, ''

Dreamtime The Dreaming, also referred to as Dreamtime, is a term devised by early anthropologists to refer to a religio-cultural worldview attributed to Australian Aboriginal beliefs. It was originally used by Francis Gillen, quickly adopted by his co ...

'' at Cresciano, and has made first ascents of boulder problems up to , such as ''Monk Life'' in

Northumberland Northumberland () is a county in Northern England, one of two counties in England which border with Scotland. Notable landmarks in the county include Alnwick Castle, Bamburgh Castle, Hadrian's Wall and Hexham Abbey. It is bordered by land ...

, and ''Pilgrimage'' at Parisella's Cave in North

Wales Wales ( cy, Cymru ) is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. It is bordered by England to the east, the Irish Sea to the north and west, the Celtic Sea to the south west and the Bristol Channel to the south. It had a population in ...

. Smith has also competed internationally in bouldering competitions, winning the 2002 IFSC Climbing World Cup. When he was aged 18, he repeated Ben Moon's sport climbing route '' Hubble'', at Raven Tor. He is the brother of Scottish Visual Artist Sandy Smith.

Filmography

* Documentary on Smith's training techniques: * Documentary on Smith,

Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in th ...

, and Ben Moon bouldering in Cresciano: * Documentary on British bouldering:

Notable Ascents

First ascents unless otherwise stated.

Routes

1991 Magnetic Fields, F8b, Malham Cove. Repeat. 1992 Hubble, F8c+, Raven Tor. Second ascent. Now sometimes considered F9a, which would make Malcolm the 3rd man ever to climb F9a. 1993 Steall Appeal, F8b, Steall Hut Crag. 1994 Transcendence, E8 6c, Back Bowden Doors. Malcolm originally gave the route E9 7a but it was downgraded by second ascendent Robin Barker also in 1994. It received its 3rd ascent in 2019. 2000 Transform, F8c, Malham Cove. 2007 Black Out, F8c, The Anvil. 2007 The Smiddy, F8b+, The Anvil. 2008 Unjustified, F8c, Malham Cove. Repeat. 2010 Blood Diamond, F8c+, The Anvil. 2010 Hunger, F9a, The Anvil. Scotland’s first F9a.

Bouldering

2001 Eight Ball, Font 8b, Gardoms Edge. Second or third ascent. 2001 Careless Torque, Font 8a+, Stanage Plantation. Second ascent. 2001 The Ace, Font 8b, Stanage Plantation. Second or third ascent. 2003 Lothlorian, Font 8b, Kyloe-in-the-woods. 2003 Leviathan, Font 8b+, Kyloe-in-the-woods. 2003 Monk Life, Font 8b+, Kyloe-in-the-woods. 2004 Pilgrimage, Font 8b+, Parisella's Cave. 2004 ''

'', Font 8c, Cresciano. Some give it Font 8b+. 2005 Supersize Me, Font 8b, Dumbarton Rock. 2007 The Serum of Sisyphus, Font 8a+, Dumbarton Rock. 2010 Gut buster, Font 8b+, Dumbarton Rock. 2010 Grande Tour, Font 8b, Dumbarton Rock. 2010 Firefight, Font 8b, Dumbarton Rock. Sent on same day as Grande Tour. 2010 Le Saboteur, Font 8a+, Dumbarton Rock. 2010 Perfect Crime Extension, Font 8a+, Dumbarton Rock.

References

External links