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Magee of Donegal are a textile manufacturer, clothing manufacturer and retailer, and manufacturer and retailer of home goods based in
Donegal Town Donegal ( ; , "fort of the foreigners") is a town in County Donegal, Ireland. The name was also historically spelt 'Dunnagall'. Although Donegal gave its name to the county, now Lifford is the county town. From the 15th until the early 17th ce ...
,
County Donegal County Donegal ( ; ga, Contae Dhún na nGall) is a county of Ireland in the province of Ulster and in the Northern and Western Region. It is named after the town of Donegal in the south of the county. It has also been known as County Tyrconne ...
, Ireland. The company are known for their
woolen Woolen (American English) or woollen (Commonwealth English) is a type of yarn made from carded wool. Woolen yarn is soft, light, stretchy, and full of air. It is thus a good insulator, and makes a good knitting yarn. Woolen yarn is in contrast t ...
Donegal tweed Donegal tweed is a woven tweed manufactured in County Donegal, Ireland. Originally all handwoven, it is now mostly machine woven and has been since the introduction of mechanised looms in the 1950s-1960s. Donegal has for centuries been producing ...
, but also manufacture items from
linen Linen () is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is very strong, absorbent, and dries faster than cotton. Because of these properties, linen is comfortable to wear in hot weather and is valued for use in garments. It also ...
, cashmere,
silk Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the coc ...
and other materials.


Organization & marks

Magee markets its wholesale and retail products separately. All brands are under the umbrella of the ''Donegal Bay Group, Ltd.''. The business has three main parts: weaving, product design and production, and retail.


Weaving

Wholesale Wholesaling or distributing is the sale of goods or merchandise to retailers; to industrial, commercial, institutional or other professional business users; or to other wholesalers (wholesale businesses) and related subordinated services. In ...
cloth is marketed to the garment industry under the name ''Magee Weaving.'' For products made by outside companies using Magee fabric, a green woven label, embroidered in gold thread, bearing the legend ''MAGEE OF DONEGAL'' is sewn into garments next to the brand label. An
escutcheon Escutcheon may refer to: * Escutcheon (heraldry), a shield or shield-shaped emblem, displaying a coat of arms * Escutcheon (furniture), a metal plate that surrounds a keyhole or lock cylinder on a door * (in medicine) the distribution of pubic ha ...
with three birds is inserted between the descender of the letter ''M'', with ''Fabric Made in Ireland'' subscribed to this, and the entire design enclosed in an
oval An oval () is a closed curve in a plane which resembles the outline of an egg. The term is not very specific, but in some areas (projective geometry, technical drawing, etc.) it is given a more precise definition, which may include either one or ...
shape..
J.Crew J.Crew Group, Inc., is an American multi-brand, multi-channel, specialty retailer. The company offers an assortment of women's, men's, and children's apparel and accessories, including swimwear, outerwear, lounge-wear, bags, sweaters, denim, dr ...
are a notable clothing brand which purchase Magee fabric to make items to their own specifications with their manufacturing partners.


Design and production

Finished goods designed by Magee from the company's fabrics, as well as retail quantities of fabric, are marketed under the name ''Magee 1866''. This branding uses a blue label embroidered in gold thread with the brand's wolfhound logo subscribed with the legend ''MAGEE 1866'' (''see illustration, at right''). Magee 1866 also has a
made to measure Made-to-measure (MTM) typically refers to custom clothing that is cut and sewn using a standard-sized base pattern. Suits and sport coats are the most common garments made-to-measure. The fit of a made-to-measure garment is expected to be superio ...
programme.


Retail

Magee sells its finished products through its own Magee branded stores, as well as in collaboration with
Arnotts Arnotts can refer to; * Arnott's Biscuits, an Australian biscuit and salted snack food company * Arnotts (Ireland), a department store in Dublin, Ireland * Arnotts (Scotland) Arnotts was a department store in Glasgow, Scotland. It became part o ...
, an Irish
department store A department store is a retail establishment offering a wide range of consumer goods in different areas of the store, each area ("department") specializing in a product category. In modern major cities, the department store made a dramatic app ...
,and on its website.


History


Founding

The company traces its origins to 1866, when the founder, John Magee (1849–1901), began traveling between local markets trading in
cottage industry The putting-out system is a means of subcontracting work. Historically, it was also known as the workshop system and the domestic system. In putting-out, work is contracted by a central agent to subcontractors who complete the project via remote ...
woven goods produced by Donegal fishermen and farmers. In 1866, he opened a draper shop in Donegal Town. In 1887, Magee hired his cousin, Robert Temple (1866–1958), as an apprentice, after observing the latter's sales acumen in transacting with
hotel manager A hotel manager, hotelier, or lodging manager is a person who manages the operation of a hotel, motel, resort, or other lodging-related establishment. Management of a hotel operation includes, but is not limited to management of hotel staff, bu ...
for some
woodcocks The woodcocks are a group of seven or eight very similar living species of wading birds in the genus ''Scolopax''. The genus name is Latin for a snipe or woodcock, and until around 1800 was used to refer to a variety of waders. The English name ...
. Temple acquired a partial interest in the company in 1901, purchasing the rest from his cousin in 1910.


Expansion

After the formation of the
Irish Free State The Irish Free State ( ga, Saorstát Éireann, , ; 6 December 192229 December 1937) was a state established in December 1922 under the Anglo-Irish Treaty of December 1921. The treaty ended the three-year Irish War of Independence between th ...
, a Magee warehouse was opened in
Belfast Belfast ( , ; from ga, Béal Feirste , meaning 'mouth of the sand-bank ford') is the capital and largest city of Northern Ireland, standing on the banks of the River Lagan on the east coast. It is the 12th-largest city in the United Kingdo ...
to avoid
customs duties A tariff is a tax imposed by the government of a country or by a supranational union on imports or exports of goods. Besides being a source of revenue for the government, import duties can also be a form of regulation of foreign trade and poli ...
in the
United Kingdom The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom (UK) or Britain, is a country in Europe, off the north-western coast of the continental mainland. It comprises England, Scotland, Wales and North ...
. Robert's son Howard Temple (1913–2010) began working with his father in 1931. One of the most significant figures in the history of Donegal tweed, Howard Temple carried Magee to new heights. The number of weavers (both in-house and outworkers) were greatly increased and he began the process of making Donegal tweed an international brand. This operation was expanded in 1945 to produce
ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear (or ''prêt-à-porter''; abbreviated RTW; "off-the-rack" or "off-the-peg" in casual use) is the term for ready-made garments, sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothing ...
garments, a growing market, in contrast to the declining
bespoke The word ''bespoke'' () has evolved from a verb meaning 'to speak for something', to its contemporary usage as an adjective. Originally, the adjective ''bespoke'' described tailor-made suits and shoes. Later, it described anything commissioned t ...
trade which the company had traditionally supplied. To this end he collaborated very closely with the Irish fashion designers
Sybil Connolly Sybil Connolly (24 January 1921 – 6 May 1998) was a Dublin-based fashion designer who was known for creating fashion from Irish textiles, including finely pleated linen, wools such as Báinín, Limerick and Carrickmacross lace, and later for ...
and
Irene Gilbert Irene Gilbert (born Irene Liebert or Liebeschutz; August 25, 1934 – May 21, 2011) was a German-born American actress and acting school director, who co-founded the Stella Adler Academy in Los Angeles, with actress Joanne Linville, in 1985. Sh ...
, who helped promote Donegal tweed to the wider fashion industry.In 1962, the company designed and produced green tweed uniforms for
Aer Lingus Aer Lingus ( ; an anglicisation of the Irish , meaning "air fleet" compare Welsh 'llynges awyr') is the flag carrier of Ireland. Founded by the Irish Government, it was privatised between 2006 and 2015 and it is now a wholly owned subsidiary ...
. In 1966, Temple also established a large factory in Donegal Town manufacturing ready-to-wear men's clothes which at its peak employed approximately 300 people. The first power looms were installed in 1977. The company employed its own cutting and sewing staff to make branded garments in Donegal until 2007, when it terminated in-house clothing production. Weaving operations were unaffected. As of 2022, the Magee 1866 retail brand stocks a limited range of finished products made in Ireland, including
sweater A sweater (North American English) or pullover, also called a jumper (British English and Australian English), ...
s,
shawl A shawl (from fa, شال ''shāl'',) is a simple item of clothing from Kashmir, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular or square piece of cloth, which is often folded ...
s, linen
shirt A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body (from the neck to the waist). Originally an undergarment worn exclusively by men, it has become, in American English, a catch-all term for a broad variety of upper-body garments and undergarments. I ...
s,
notebook A notebook (also known as a notepad, writing pad, drawing pad, or legal pad) is a book or stack of paper pages that are often ruled and used for purposes such as note-taking, journaling or other writing, drawing, or scrapbooking. History ...
s,
candle A candle is an ignitable wick embedded in wax, or another flammable solid substance such as tallow, that provides light, and in some cases, a fragrance. A candle can also provide heat or a method of keeping time. A person who makes candles i ...
s and throw blankets, in addition to the fabric that the company continues to manufacture in Donegal.


Twenty-first century

The current proprietors of Magee are Howard Temple's son Lynn and Lynn's children Charlotte and Patrick. Magee continues to be the largest and most famous producers of Donegal tweed. In 2015, Donegal Bay Group purchased Robert Noble, a Scottish weaver owned by Moorbrook, Ltd., and whose sister mark, Replin, was sold to
AW Hainsworth AW Hainsworth & Sons, Ltd., formerly known as Abimelech Hainsworth are an English textile manufacturing company based in Pudsey, West Yorkshire. They are known for producing heavily milled wool fabrics such as melton and doeskin, and for supply ...
. A media controversy erupted in 2020 when a
lesbian A lesbian is a Homosexuality, homosexual woman.Zimmerman, p. 453. The word is also used for women in relation to their sexual identity or sexual behavior, regardless of sexual orientation, or as an adjective to characterize or associate n ...
woman planning to be fitted for a men's suit for a
same-sex marriage Same-sex marriage, also known as gay marriage, is the marriage of two people of the same Legal sex and gender, sex or gender. marriage between same-sex couples is legally performed and recognized in 33 countries, with the most recent being ...
made an appointment at the Magee Arnotts shop in Dublin. The woman, Maeve Wright, was told on arrival that the made-to-measure service was for men only, though she had been assured when booking the appointment that she could be served. Wright made an on-air complaint about her experience on the radio programme ''
Liveline ''Liveline'' is an Irish radio interview and phone-in chat show broadcast on RTÉ Radio 1 each weekday afternoon between 13.45 and 15.00. The programme, which is currently presented by Joe Duffy and known for its slogan "Talk to Joe", seeks the ...
'', which led to a response from CEO Rosy Temple, who called the incident a misunderstanding, and explained that the men's made-to-measure service used a men's
pattern block Pattern Blocks are a set of mathematical manipulatives developed in the 1960s. The six shapes are both a play resource and a tool for learning in mathematics, which serve to develop spatial reasoning skills that are fundamental to the learning of m ...
. While Magee would be launching a specifically women's made-to-measure service later that year, the men's made-to-measure could be purchased by customers of either gender. Magee has partnered with Donegal Yarns in
Kilcar ''Cill Charthaigh'' (anglicised as Kilcar) is a Gaeltacht village on the R263 regional road in the south west of County Donegal in Ireland. It is also a townland of 233 acres and a civil parish in the historic barony of Banagh. The village it ...
to source wool from Irish farmers, which is spun into yarn by Donegal Yarns before being woven by Magee. Patrick Temple has collaborated with sheep farmer James Lorinko to improve Donegal wool. In 2021, Magee created a new collection featuring a coat made from the resultant fabric. The business was affected by
Covid-19 Coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) is a contagious disease caused by a virus, the severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2). The first known case was COVID-19 pandemic in Hubei, identified in Wuhan, China, in December ...
, with revenues falling from €14.14 million in 2019 to €7.61 million in 2020. Losses increased by €809,696 in 2021, but exports of finished cloth began increasing again. Employee head count decreased from 113 in 2019 to 79 in 2020, but increased again to 88 in 2021. The company received Covid-19 related government aid, and the extension of additional credit facilities from
Enterprise Ireland Enterprise Ireland is an Irish state economic development agency focused on helping Irish-owned business deliver new export sales. The aim of Enterprise Ireland is . History Enterprise Ireland was established by the Industrial Development (E ...
.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Magee Of Donegal Clothing companies of Ireland Donegal (town) Textile industry Textile industry of the Republic of Ireland Textile companies of Ireland 1866 establishments in Ireland 19th-century establishments in Ireland