Leno weave (also called gauze weave or cross weave) is a weave in which two

warp Warp, warped or warping may refer to: Arts and entertainment Books and comics * WaRP Graphics, an alternative comics publisher * ''Warp'' (First Comics), comic book series published by First Comics based on the play ''Warp!'' * Warp (comics), a ...

yarn Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufact ...

s are woven around the

weft Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is draw ...

yarns to provide a strong yet sheer fabric. The standard warp yarn is paired with a skeleton or 'doup' yarn; these twisted warp yarns grip tightly to the weft which causes the durability of the fabric. Leno weave produces an open fabric with almost no yarn slippage or misplacement of threads.

Uses

Leno weave fabric, which allows light and air to pass through freely, is used in any area where a sheer, open weave fabric that will not bruise (where the threads shift away from their original positions, disturbing the uniformity of the weave) is required. If a simple in-and-out flat weave were woven very loosely to achieve a sheer fabric, the threads would tend towards this bruising. Leno weaves are often used for window treatments and for sheer layers for fine clothing. When made with glass fibre or other strong yarns or when permeated with a strengthening compound, it can be used as an engineering material in construction. Due to the openness of the fabric, if a solid covering is required in a construction context, it is often used in conjunction with other weave styles. Items made from leno woven fabric include: * Produce bags - onions, potatoes, cabbage * Shellfish bags - oysters, mussels and clams * Firewood bags * Curtains and drapery * Mosquito netting * Clothing

Production

To produce a leno weave, the loom is threaded with the warp yarn and a doup yarn together. The doup yarn can be of similar or lesser weight and strength. The weft is woven in and for each weft shuttle the warp yarns are twisted interchangeably to produce a figure eight pattern.

refers to a category of
Japanese Japanese may refer to: * Something from or related to Japan, an island country in East Asia * Japanese language, spoken mainly in Japan * Japanese people, the ethnic group that identifies with Japan through ancestry or culture ** Japanese diaspor ...
leno weaves that encompass a number of techniques and resulting fabrics.Marshall, John. (June 27, 2011)
''Traditional Techniques:'' 絡み織り ''Karamiori''
Retrieved August 2, 2020. is a very old textile production method, believed to have originated some time in the
Nara period The of the history of Japan covers the years from CE 710 to 794. Empress Genmei established the capital of Heijō-kyō (present-day Nara). Except for a five-year period (740–745), when the capital was briefly moved again, it remained the cap ...
, introduced to Japan from mainland Asia. There are three basic types of used in Japan: , and . refers to a plain- or twill-weave fabric with interspersed horizontal leno-weave stripes; is an entirely leno-weave fabric; and combines the concept of twisted warp threads with a far more open weaving structure, creating patterns in the warp that appear similar to those seen in
crochet Crochet (; ) is a process of creating textiles by using a crochet hook to interlock loops of yarn, thread (yarn), thread, or strands of other materials. The name is derived from the French term ''crochet'', meaning 'hook'. Hooks can be made from ...
and
lace Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
. Other varieties, such as ("vertical ") are also seen, though less commonly; all three fabrics are typically seen in
kimono The is a traditional Japanese garment and the national dress of Japan. The kimono is a wrapped-front garment with square sleeves and a rectangular body, and is worn left side wrapped over right, unless the wearer is deceased. The kimono ...
and suitable to be worn in the summer.

References

External links

Leno Weaves (PDF)
{{weaving Weaving