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Louis French Reichardt (born June 4, 1942) is a noted American neuroscientist and
mountaineer Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, an ...
, the first American to summit both
Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heigh ...
and K2. He was also director of the Simons Foundation Autism Research Initiative, the largest non-federal supporter of scientific research into autism spectrum disorders and is an emeritus professor of physiology and biochemistry/biophysics at
UCSF The University of California, San Francisco (UCSF) is a public land-grant research university in San Francisco, California. It is part of the University of California system and is dedicated entirely to health science and life science. It condu ...
, where he studied neuroscience. The character of Harold Jameson, U.C.S.F. biophysicist and mountaineer in the film '' K2'', is based on Reichardt, though the events of his actual 1978 K2 attempt with
Jim Wickwire Jim Wickwire (born June 8, 1940) is the first American to summit K2, the second highest mountain in the world (summit at ). Wickwire is also known for surviving an overnight solo bivouac on K2 at an elevation above ; considered "one of the most ...
bear little resemblance to the plot of the film.


Notable ascents and expeditions

* 1968 ''Abruzzi Route'' (substantial variation),
Mount Saint Elias Mount Saint Elias (also designated Boundary Peak 186), the second-highest mountain in both Canada and the United States, stands on the Yukon and Alaska border about southwest of Mount Logan, the highest mountain in Canada. The Canadian side of ...
, Yukon/Alaska. Fifth ascent of peak with Paul Gerhard * 1973 ''Northeast Ridge''
Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I () is ...
, Nepal. Third ascent of peak. Summit reached with
John Roskelley John Roskelley (born December 1, 1948) is an American mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington. He made first ascents and notable ascents of 7,000-meter (22,966 ft.) and 8,000-meter peaks (26,247 ft.) in Nepal, India, and Pakistan. ...
and Nawang Samden, May 12, 1973. * 1976: Summit team with
John Roskelley John Roskelley (born December 1, 1948) is an American mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington. He made first ascents and notable ascents of 7,000-meter (22,966 ft.) and 8,000-meter peaks (26,247 ft.) in Nepal, India, and Pakistan. ...
and Jim States on
Nanda Devi Nanda Devi is the second-highest mountain in India, after Kangchenjunga, and the highest located entirely within the country (Kangchenjunga is on the border of India and Nepal). It is the 23rd-highest peak in the world. Nanda Devi was consid ...
. Despite extreme adversity, the three were successful in reaching the summit. Tragically Nanda Devi Unsoeld died at high camp due to complications of a stomach virus and acute mountain sickness. * 1978 ''Northeast Ridge/East Face and Abruzzi Ridge'' K2,
Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
. New route and third ascent of peak, First summiter without supplemental oxygen. Summit reached with
Jim Wickwire Jim Wickwire (born June 8, 1940) is the first American to summit K2, the second highest mountain in the world (summit at ). Wickwire is also known for surviving an overnight solo bivouac on K2 at an elevation above ; considered "one of the most ...
on September 6, 1978.
John Roskelley John Roskelley (born December 1, 1948) is an American mountain climber and author from Spokane, Washington. He made first ascents and notable ascents of 7,000-meter (22,966 ft.) and 8,000-meter peaks (26,247 ft.) in Nepal, India, and Pakistan. ...
and
Rick Ridgeway Rick Ridgeway (born August 12, 1949) is an American mountaineer and adventurer, who during his career has also been an environmentalist, writer, filmmaker and businessman. Ridgeway has climbed new routes and explored little-known regions on six co ...
reached the summit the next day. * 1980: Member of the first American expedition granted permission to climb in Tibet, an expedition sponsored by the American Alpine Club to
Minya Konka Mount Gongga (), also known as Minya Konka (Khams Tibetan pinyin: ''Mi'nyâg Gong'ga Riwo'') and colloquially as "The King of Sichuan Mountains", is the highest mountain in Sichuan province, China. It has an elevation of above sea level. This ...
, led by Lance Owens and Andrew Harvard. * 1981: As climbing leader of the 1981 American expedition to Everest, led by Richard Blum, Lou Reichardt faced what must have seemed an almost insurmountable task, to chart a path up the unclimbed East face of Everest, the
Kangshung Face The Kangshung Face (Chinese: 康雄壁) or East Face is the eastern-facing side of Mount Everest, one of the Tibetan sides of the mountain. It is 3,350 metres (11,000 ft) from its base on the Kangshung Glacier to the summit.''Mount Everest'', ...
. And for that year at least the Kangshung Face remained unclimbed. The expedition, though well financed, was torn by strife, bad weather, threat of avalanche, and illness - and the attempt at the summit abandoned. * 1983: Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and
Carlos Buhler Carlos Buhler (born October 17, 1954 in Harrison, New York) is one of America's leading high altitude mountaineers. Buhler's specialty is high-standard mountaineering characterized by small teams, no oxygen, minimal gear and equipment, and relative ...
become the first to summit the
Kangshung Face The Kangshung Face (Chinese: 康雄壁) or East Face is the eastern-facing side of Mount Everest, one of the Tibetan sides of the mountain. It is 3,350 metres (11,000 ft) from its base on the Kangshung Glacier to the summit.''Mount Everest'', ...
of
Mount Everest Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heig ...
In its September 1986 issue, Backpacker magazine described Reichardt as a "climbing gorilla," able to "walk out of the lab and climb like an animal on no training at all."


American Alpine Club

Reichardt was a director of the
American Alpine Club The American Alpine Club (AAC) is a non-profit member organization with more than 24,000 members. Its vision is to create "a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes." The Club is housed in the American Mountaineerin ...
from 1977 to 1980, and served as president from 1995 to 1997.


Honors and awards

Reichardt was awarded the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award by the American Alpine Club in 1993, The
David Brower David Ross Brower (; July 1, 1912 – November 5, 2000) was a prominent environmentalist and the founder of many environmental organizations, including the John Muir Institute for Environmental Studies (1997), Friends of the Earth (1969), Eart ...
Conservation Award in 1997, and The Angelo Heilprin Citation in 2000. On April 7, 2012, the
American Alpine Club The American Alpine Club (AAC) is a non-profit member organization with more than 24,000 members. Its vision is to create "a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes." The Club is housed in the American Mountaineerin ...
inducted Reichardt into its Hall of Mountaineering Excellence at an award ceremony in
Golden, Colorado Golden is a List of municipalities in Colorado#Home rule municipality, home rule city that is the county seat of Jefferson County, Colorado, Jefferson County, Colorado, United States. The city population was 20,399 at the 2020 United States Censu ...
.


Scientific career

Reichardt went to
Harvard University Harvard University is a private Ivy League research university in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Founded in 1636 as Harvard College and named for its first benefactor, the Puritan clergyman John Harvard, it is the oldest institution of higher le ...
for undergraduate work (1960–1964), was a Fulbright Scholar at
St. John's College, Cambridge St John's College is a constituent college of the University of Cambridge founded by the Tudor matriarch Lady Margaret Beaufort. In constitutional terms, the college is a charitable corporation established by a charter dated 9 April 1511. The ...
and received a PhD in Biochemistry from
Stanford University Stanford University, officially Leland Stanford Junior University, is a private research university in Stanford, California. The campus occupies , among the largest in the United States, and enrolls over 17,000 students. Stanford is consider ...
in 1972. He was a research fellow at the
University of Geneva The University of Geneva (French: ''Université de Genève'') is a public research university located in Geneva, Switzerland. It was founded in 1559 by John Calvin as a theological seminary. It remained focused on theology until the 17th centu ...
and
Harvard Medical School Harvard Medical School (HMS) is the graduate medical school of Harvard University and is located in the Longwood Medical Area of Boston, Massachusetts. Founded in 1782, HMS is one of the oldest medical schools in the United States and is consi ...
, before becoming a professor at The University of California, San Francisco. From 1988-2013, he served as co-Director and Director of the UCSF Neuroscience program, and from 2013-2020 he was Director of the Simons Foundation Autism Research Initiative. He continued as an advisor for the foundation until the end of 2020. Reichardt was an investigator at Howard Hughes Medical Institute (1985–2007). He is a fellow of American Academy of Arts and Sciences. He was a co-founder of the journal
Neuron A neuron, neurone, or nerve cell is an electrically excitable cell that communicates with other cells via specialized connections called synapses. The neuron is the main component of nervous tissue in all animals except sponges and placozoa. N ...
, in 1988, with Lily Jan, A. James Hudspeth,
Roger Nicoll Roger A. Nicoll (born 1941) is an American neuroscientist at the University of California, San Francisco where he is professor at the Department of Cellular and Molecular Pharmacology. Nicoll grew up in Princeton, New Jersey. He studied biology and ...
, and Zach Hall.
Arthur Lander Arthur D. Lander, Doctor of Medicine, M.D., Doctor of Philosophy, Ph.D. is Director of the Center for Complex Biological Systems at the University of California, Irvine. Education He was born in Brooklyn, New York (state), New York, and is an alumn ...
, the
UC Irvine UC may refer to: Arts and entertainment * ''University Challenge'', a popular British quiz programme airing on BBC Two ** '' University Challenge (New Zealand)'', the New Zealand version of the British programme * Universal Century, one of the ti ...
developmental biologist, is one of his eminent students.American Society for Cell Biology Newsletter,'' 2001
Member profile


Publications

* *


References


External links


Interview with Louis Reichardt: "Expeditions in Science and Mountaineering"From Summit to SFARI: The High-Altitude Life of Louis F. Reichardt
{{DEFAULTSORT:Reichardt, Louis French 1942 births Living people Alumni of St John's College, Cambridge Harvard University alumni Stanford University alumni American mountain climbers American summiters of Mount Everest