Lip balm or lip salve is a
wax
Waxes are a diverse class of organic compounds that are lipophilic, malleable solids near ambient temperatures. They include higher alkanes and lipids, typically with melting points above about 40 °C (104 °F), melting to giv ...
-like substance applied topically to the lips to moisturize and relieve
chapped or dry lips,
angular cheilitis
Angular cheilitis (AC) is inflammation of one or both corners of the mouth. Often the corners are red with skin breakdown and crusting. It can also be itchy or painful. The condition can last for days to years. Angular cheilitis is a type of ch ...
,
stomatitis
Stomatitis is inflammation of the mouth and lips. It refers to any inflammatory process affecting the mucous membranes of the mouth and lips, with or without oral ulceration.
In its widest meaning, stomatitis can have a multitude of different cau ...
, or
cold sores
Herpes labialis, commonly known as cold sores or fever blisters, is a type of infection by the herpes simplex virus that affects primarily the lip. Symptoms typically include a burning pain followed by small blisters or sores. The first attack ...
. Lip balm often contains
beeswax
Beeswax (''cera alba'') is a natural wax produced by honey bees of the genus ''Apis''. The wax is formed into scales by eight wax-producing glands in the abdominal segments of worker bees, which discard it in or at the hive. The hive workers ...
or
carnauba wax
Carnauba (; pt, carnaúba ), also called Brazil wax and palm wax, is a wax of the leaves of the carnauba palm ''Copernicia prunifera'' (synonym: ''Copernicia cerifera''), a plant native to and grown only in the northeastern Brazilian states of C ...
,
camphor
Camphor () is a waxy, colorless solid with a strong aroma. It is classified as a terpenoid and a cyclic ketone. It is found in the wood of the camphor laurel ('' Cinnamomum camphora''), a large evergreen tree found in East Asia; and in the k ...
,
cetyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol , also known as hexadecan-1-ol and palmityl alcohol, is a C-16 fatty alcohol with the formula CH3(CH2)15OH. At room temperature, cetyl alcohol takes the form of a waxy white solid or flakes. The name cetyl derives from the whale oi ...
,
lanolin
Lanolin (from Latin 'wool', and 'oil'), also called wool yolk, wool wax, or wool grease, is a wax secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals. Lanolin used by humans comes from domestic sheep breeds that are raised specifically fo ...
,
paraffin Paraffin may refer to:
Substances
* Paraffin wax, a white or colorless soft solid that is used as a lubricant and for other applications
* Liquid paraffin (drug), a very highly refined mineral oil used in cosmetics and for medical purposes
* Alkan ...
, and
petrolatum
Petroleum jelly, petrolatum, white petrolatum, soft paraffin, or multi-hydrocarbon, CAS number 8009-03-8, is a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons (with carbon numbers mainly higher than 25), originally promoted as a topical ointment for its he ...
, among other ingredients. Some varieties contain dyes, flavor, fragrance,
phenol
Phenol (also called carbolic acid) is an aromatic organic compound with the molecular formula . It is a white crystalline solid that is volatile. The molecule consists of a phenyl group () bonded to a hydroxy group (). Mildly acidic, it req ...
,
salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is an organic compound with the formula HOC6H4CO2H. A colorless, bitter-tasting solid, it is a precursor to and a metabolite of aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid). It is a plant hormone, and has been listed by the EPA Toxic Substance ...
, and
sunscreen
Sunscreen, also known as sunblock or sun cream, is a photoprotective topical product for the skin that mainly absorbs, or to a much lesser extent reflects, some of the sun's ultraviolet (UV) radiation and thus helps protect against sunburn and ...
.
Overview
The primary purpose of lip balm is to provide an occlusive layer on the lip surface to seal moisture in lips and protect them from external exposure. Dry air, cold temperatures, and wind all have a drying effect on skin by drawing moisture away from the body. Lips are particularly vulnerable because the skin is so thin, and thus they are often the first to present signs of dryness. Occlusive materials like waxes and
petroleum jelly
Petroleum jelly, petrolatum, white petrolatum, soft paraffin, or multi-hydrocarbon, CAS number 8009-03-8, is a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons (with carbon numbers mainly higher than 25), originally promoted as a topical ointment for its h ...
prevent moisture loss and maintain lip comfort while flavorings, colorants, sunscreens, and various medicaments can provide additional, specific benefits. Lip balms are produced from bee wax and natural candelilla and carnauba waxes.
Lip balm can be applied by a finger to the lips, or in a
lipstick
Lipstick is a cosmetic product used to apply coloration and texture to lips, often made of wax and oil. Different pigments are used to produce color, and minerals such as silica may be used to provide texture. The use of lipstick dates back to ...
-style tube from which it can be applied directly.
In 2022, the global lip balm market was valued at US$732.76 mln. The market is predicted to grow at a rate of 9.28% within the next five years and is likely to reach US$1247.74 mln by 2027.
Types of lip balms
The lip balms are divided into different types by their ingredients:
* UV filter lip balm. This type of lip balm can be applied all the year round, especially in summer or when staying in a place with an increased solar activity (e.g. mountain ski resorts).
* Nourishing lip balm. This type works best in winter.
* Moisturizing lip balm. If you apply this lip balm in winter, your lips can be cracked because the balm is too quick to be absorbed. This type of lip balm is good for dry lips. Moisturizing lip balm can be worn year round.
* Medicated lip balm. It should be applied with care. It acts as a softening and antiseptic medication.
* Tinted lip balm. You can wear tinted lip balm year round.
Production technology
Production technology for lip balms includes the following stages:
* Raw material is checked for its quality (cosmetic products must comply with the strict safety standards)
* Ingredients are dosed, melted, mixed (this stage involves special equipment and facilities)
* This mixture is treated in a vacuum (this is the stage when the bubbles are removed from the lipstick)
* The mixture is crystallized (it takes about 48 hours)
* The mixture is melted
* The mixture is shaped (it is cut into pieces which are shaped as required)
* It is packaged (the lipstick is packed into a casing)
History
Early lip balms
Since 40 BC, the Egyptians made treatment for lip care, which utilized a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and animal fat.
United States
In the 1800s,
Lydia Maria Child
Lydia Maria Child ( Francis; February 11, 1802October 20, 1880) was an American abolitionist, women's rights activist, Native American rights activist, novelist, journalist, and opponent of American expansionism.
Her journals, both fiction and ...
recommended earwax as a treatment for cracked lips in her highly-popular book,
Child
A child ( : children) is a human being between the stages of birth and puberty, or between the developmental period of infancy and puberty. The legal definition of ''child'' generally refers to a minor, otherwise known as a person younger ...
observed that, "Those who are troubled with cracked lips have found this earwax remedy successful when others have failed. It is one of those sorts of cures, which are very likely to be laughed at; but I know of its having produced very beneficial results." The invention of the lip balm was first formally invented in the 1880s by physician
Charles Brown Fleet though its origins may be traced to
earwax
Earwax, also known by the medical term cerumen, is a brown, orange, red, yellowish or gray waxy substance secreted in the ear canal of humans and other mammals. It protects the skin of the human ear canal, assists in cleaning and lubrication, ...
.
Fleet later named his lip balm product "
ChapStick
ChapStick is a brand name of lip balm manufactured by Haleon and used in many countries worldwide. It is intended to help treat and prevent chapped lips, hence the name. Many varieties also include sunscreen in order to prevent sunburn.
Due to ...
".
In 1872, chemist
Robert Chesebrough
Robert Augustus Chesebrough, (January 9, 1837 – September 8, 1933) was an American chemist who discovered petroleum jelly—which he marketed as Vaseline—and founder of the Chesebrough Manufacturing Company.
Life and career
Born in ...
discovered and sampled a new petroleum jelly, initially describing it as a "natural, waxy ingredient, rich in minerals from deep within the earth" which could be used as a solution for skin repair. He then distributed his product under the name "Wonder Jelly" before shortly changing it to "Vaseline".
In the early 1880s, Charles Brown Fleet created ChapStick.
However, due to the lack of sales, Fleet sold his formula and rights to ChapStick to John Morton in 1912 for $5, who saw the marketing potential in the brand.
After making the purchase, Morton commissioned Frank Wright, Jr. to create a design for the logo of ChapStick for $15 in 1936.
In 1972, ChapStick tubes concealing hidden microphones were used during the
Watergate scandal
The Watergate scandal was a major political scandal in the United States involving the administration of President Richard Nixon from 1972 to 1974 that led to Nixon's resignation. The scandal stemmed from the Nixon administration's continual ...
.
In 1937, Alfred Woelbing created
Carmex to treat cold sores in Milwaukee, though the occurrence of
World War 2
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposing ...
would slow the production and sales due to the lack of
lanolin
Lanolin (from Latin 'wool', and 'oil'), also called wool yolk, wool wax, or wool grease, is a wax secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals. Lanolin used by humans comes from domestic sheep breeds that are raised specifically fo ...
. In 1980, Carmex underwent a product change by converting its packaging into squeezable tubes.
In 1973,
Bonne Bell
Bonne Bell is a cosmetics company aimed for teens. The company was best known for its line of astringents and cleansers named "10-0-6." In the 1970s, they expanded into a popular range of lip balms called Lip Smackers which became the company's s ...
created the first flavored lip balm and marketed the company as Lip Smackers. The company would later collaborate on various different-flavored lip balms including
Dr. Pepper
Dr Pepper is a carbonated soft drink. It was created in the 1880s by pharmacist Charles Alderton in Waco, Texas, and first served around 1885. Dr Pepper was first nationally marketed in the United States in 1904. It is now also sold in Europe ...
in 1975,
The Wrigley Company
The Wm. Wrigley Jr. Company, known as the Wrigley Company, is an American multinational chewing gum (Wrigley's gum) company, based in the Global Innovation Center (GIC) in Goose Island, Chicago, Illinois.
Wrigley's is wholly owned by Mars, In ...
in 2004, and
The Coca-Cola Company
The Coca-Cola Company is an American multinational beverage corporation founded in 1892, best known as the producer of Coca-Cola. The Coca-Cola Company also manufactures, sells, and markets other non-alcoholic beverage concentrates and syrups, ...
in 2006. Bonne Bell also collaborated with
Disney
The Walt Disney Company, commonly known as Disney (), is an American multinational mass media and entertainment conglomerate headquartered at the Walt Disney Studios complex in Burbank, California. Disney was originally founded on October ...
to produce lip balms with various princess characters in 2010.
In 1991, Burt Shavitz and Roxanne Quimby created their first beeswax based lip balm solution through their company,
Burt's Bees
Burt's Bees is an American multinational, personal care product company. The company is a subsidiary of Clorox that describes itself as an " Earth-friendly, Natural Personal Care Company"
making products for personal care, health, beauty and ...
. In 2020, it was reported that Burt's Bees had used 50 percent of recycled material to package various products and that 100 percent of the products were recyclable.
In 2011,
Evolution of Smooth (or commonly known as EOS) created a spherical-shaped lip balm as well as describing its 95% organic ingredients.
Cannabis infused lip balms
With the gradual legalization of cannabis in the United States, some companies have produced lip balms containing doses of
THC
Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) is the principal psychoactive constituent of cannabis and one of at least 113 total cannabinoids identified on the plant. Although the chemical formula for THC (C21H30O2) describes multiple isomers, the term ''THC' ...
or
CBD oil. In 2018, Ermont Inc., medical marijuana dispensary in
Quincy, Massachusetts
Quincy ( ) is a coastal U.S. city in Norfolk County, Massachusetts, United States. It is the largest city in the county and a part of Greater Boston, Metropolitan Boston as one of Boston's immediate southern suburbs. Its population in 2020 was 1 ...
created the first THC lip balm.
The lip balms were infused with a low dosage of THC in order to prevent the occurrence of any psychoactive or related effect, but rather to act as a pain-relieving ingredient.
CBD, which is known for its pain relieving and anti-aging properties, is also extracted from cannabis to be used as an ingredient for lip balms. Some cannabis infused lip balms have also included sativa strains in order to enhance concentration and energy.
Other cannabis infused lip balms use indica strains, which were reported to provide a solution to anxiety and stress due to the nature and property of THC.
Cannabis infused lip balms can come in different CBD oil, including full-spectrum CBD, broad spectrum CBD, and CBD isolate.
Full-spectrum CBD lip balms contain all of the cannabinoids and is typically used to make a
entourage effect
The entourage effect is a hypothesis that cannabis compounds other than tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) act synergistically with it to modulate the overall psychoactive effects of the plant.
Compounds
Cannabinoids
CBD
Vaped or smoked Cannabidiol (CBD ...
.
Broad-spectrum CBD lip balms contain all cannabinoids with the exception of THC and CBD isolate lip balm contains strictly pure CBD oil.
Although there are many health related uses of cannabis infused lip balms, there are others purposely meant for recreational purposes. Wax is a type of lip balm composed of hash oil which has the strength of dozens of cannabis joints.
Although it can be applied directly on the lips, there are several instances where it can be eaten or smoked using a device.
[ Cannabis infused lip balms are typically more expensive than regular lip balms and may provide benefits from other ingredients rather than CBD.]
Notable brands
* Burt's Bees
Burt's Bees is an American multinational, personal care product company. The company is a subsidiary of Clorox that describes itself as an " Earth-friendly, Natural Personal Care Company"
making products for personal care, health, beauty and ...
* Blistex
* Carmex
* ChapStick
ChapStick is a brand name of lip balm manufactured by Haleon and used in many countries worldwide. It is intended to help treat and prevent chapped lips, hence the name. Many varieties also include sunscreen in order to prevent sunburn.
Due to ...
* Labello
Labello is a brand of lip balm stick. It is produced by Beiersdorf AG in Germany and Austria. The labello lip care sticks are also sold under the name Labello Nivea, Liposan and Nivea Lip Care. Labello makes lip care products that are used for m ...
* Lip Smacker
* Lypsyl
Lypsyl is a brand of moisturising lip balm owned by Lornamead. Marketing rights in the UK and Ireland are owned by Alliance Pharma since 2013. It is packaged in a small, cylindrical, twist action tube and is applied like a lipstick.
Lypsyl moistu ...
* EOS
In ancient Greek mythology and religion, Eos (; Ionic and Homeric Greek ''Ēṓs'', Attic ''Héōs'', "dawn", or ; Aeolic ''Aúōs'', Doric ''Āṓs'') is the goddess and personification of the dawn, who rose each morning from her home at ...
* Vaseline
Vaseline ()Also pronounced with the main stress on the last syllable . is an American brand of petroleum jelly-based products owned by transnational company Unilever. Products include plain petroleum jelly and a selection of skin creams, soa ...
Dependency
Causes
According to a report, professor Brad Rohu states that it is natural for the lips to feel dry. The exposure to environments with cold, dry, or windy weather can directly cause the chapping of the lips as well as behaviors such as lip licking or mouth breathing
Mouth breathing, medically known as chronic oral ventilation, is long-term breathing through the mouth. It often is caused by an obstruction to breathing through the nose, the innate breathing organ in the human body. Chronic mouth breathing ma ...
. These factors may directly contribute to an increased amount of lip balm usage. According to dermatologist Amy Derick, those who have expressed dependencies on lip balm have developed a desire of how the lips feel after application. She also mentions that the variety of lip balm flavor may also directly cause lip balm dependency as a person may want to lick their lips to taste the flavor, which may consequentially remove the lip balm coating from the lips. This may also leave saliva on the lips which can dry up and make the lips feel even more dry than it initially was.
Addictive ingredients
Some physicians have suggested that certain types of lip balm can be addictive or contain ingredients that actually cause drying, though, it has been debated by many professionals. Lip balm manufacturers sometimes state in their FAQs that there is nothing addictive in their products or that all ingredients are listed and approved by the FDA
The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA or US FDA) is a federal agency of the Department of Health and Human Services. The FDA is responsible for protecting and promoting public health through the control and supervision of food ...
. Snopes
''Snopes'' , formerly known as the ''Urban Legends Reference Pages'', is a Fact checking, fact-checking website. It has been described as a "well-regarded reference for sorting out myths and rumors" on the Internet. The site has also been see ...
found the claim that there are substances in Carmex that are irritants necessitating reapplication, such as ground glass, to be false. However, some experts such as Dermatologist Dr. Cynthia Bailey states that some ingredients in lip balm directly causes sensitive lip skin which may lead to addiction. Dermatology professor Marcia Driscoll also adds onto this argument by stating that aroma ingredients found in flavored or scented lip balms have the potential to irritate skin.
Effects on lip barrier
The human lips have an inadequate capability of holding moisture as well as an imperfect lip barrier function. The Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
The ''Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology'', sometimes abbreviated ''JAAD'', is a monthly peer-reviewed medical journal covering dermatology. It was established in 1979 and is published by Elsevier on behalf of the American Academy of ...
performed a study in order to determine whether consistent use of lip balm would enhance the overall quality of the lips. The study used 32 female participants within the ages of 20 to 40 years and the participants had mild to moderate dried lips without any history of health-related complications. The participants underwent a procedure in which no lip treatment was provided on the first 3 days, then 2 weeks of consistent lip balm usage, and then a period of no treatment for 3 days. The study determined the quality of the lips based on the physical details and appearance throughout the study. The study showed a direct improvement of the physical details of the lips except for lip cracking during the second week of treatment and after the period of no treatment. The study also showed that hydration of the lips lasted for approximately 8 hours after usage and the lip balm improved the lip barrier function despite discontinued usage. The study concluded that lip balms assist the hydration of the lips which consequentially improves the lip barrier function and the quality.
Mineral oil
In 2015, German consumer watchdog Stiftung Warentest
Stiftung Warentest is a German consumer organisation and foundation involved in investigating and comparing goods and services in an unbiased way. It was founded on 4 December 1964 by the Federal Republic of Germany as an independent foundation ...
analyzed cosmetics containing mineral oils. After developing a new detection method they found high concentrations of Mineral Oil Aromatic Hydrocarbons (MOAH) and even polyaromatics in products containing mineral oils with Vaseline products containing the most MOAH of all tested cosmetics (up to 9%). The European Food Safety Authority
The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) is the agency of the European Union (EU) that provides independent scientific advice and communicates on existing and emerging risks associated with the food chain. EFSA was established in February 2002, ...
sees MOAH and polyaromatics as possibly carcinogenic. Based on the results, Stiftung Warentest warns not to use Vaseline or any product that is based on mineral oils for lip care.
Lip balm market
United States
In 2019, a research report conducted by the Statista Research Department concluded that ChapStick was the leading lip balm brand in the United States with an approximate unit sale of 55.8 million. Carmex was the second leading brand with approximately 35.2 million units sold and Burt's Bees being the third leading brand with approximately 32.3 million units sold.
Trends
Beezin'
Beezin' is a trend dating back to 2013 in which a person applies Burt's Bees
Burt's Bees is an American multinational, personal care product company. The company is a subsidiary of Clorox that describes itself as an " Earth-friendly, Natural Personal Care Company"
making products for personal care, health, beauty and ...
brand lip balm onto the eyelids. The practice is done in order to feel a sensation of being high or drunk, and even to increase the desired effects of alcohol and other substances. In 2022, Beezin' became a viral trend on the social media platform TikTok
TikTok, known in China as Douyin (), is a short-form video hosting service owned by the Chinese company ByteDance. It hosts user-submitted videos, which can range in duration from 15 seconds to 10 minutes.
TikTok is an international version ...
. Some ingredients, including Peppermint oil, are known to be eye irritants which can cause an unintentional inflammatory response which may require treatment and may also cause dermatitis on the eyelids.
References
{{cosmetics
Skin care
Drug delivery devices
Dosage forms
Lips
Cosmetics