Kundan, meaning pure gold, is a traditional form of Indian
gemstone
A gemstone (also called a fine gem, jewel, precious stone, or semiprecious stone) is a piece of mineral crystal which, in cut and polished form, is used to make jewelry or other adornments. However, certain rocks (such as lapis lazuli, opal, ...
jewellery
Jewellery ( UK) or jewelry (U.S.) consists of decorative items worn for personal adornment, such as brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and cufflinks. Jewellery may be attached to the body or the clothes. From a wester ...
involving a gem set with a
gold foil
Gold leaf is gold that has been hammered into thin sheets (usually around 0.1 µm thick) by goldbeating and is often used for gilding. Gold leaf is available in a wide variety of karats and shades. The most commonly used gold is 22-kara ...
between the stones and its mount, usually for elaborate necklaces and other jewellery.
History
Origins of Kundan jewelleries in India are dated back to at least 3rd century BCE.
Kundan started off in Rajasthan Royal court and then flourished under royal patronage during the
Mughal era
The Mughal Empire was an early-modern empire that controlled much of South Asia between the 16th and 19th centuries. Quote: "Although the first two Timurid emperors and many of their noblemen were recent migrants to the subcontinent, the d ...
.
Over the years, the Kundan jewellery of the courts was successfully copied in silver in Rajasthan, Bihar and the Punjab and became popular with the common man.
The method is believed to have originated in the
royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It is one of the older forms of jewellery made and worn in India.
The city of
Jaipur
Jaipur (; Hindi Language, Hindi: ''Jayapura''), formerly Jeypore, is the List of state and union territory capitals in India, capital and largest city of the Indian States and union territories of India, state of Rajasthan. , the city had a pop ...
in Rajasthan has traditionally been the centre for Kundan in India.
[Kundan Jewellery]
''Let's Know Handicrafts of India'', by Amar Tyagi. Star Publications, 2008. . ''p. 32''.
It remains an integral part of the traditional bridal wedding trousseau. Traditional settings, including the thappa and ras rawa, are experiencing a revival. In the 2008 film, ''
Jodhaa Akbar
''Jodhaa Akbar'' is a 2008 Indian Hindi-language historical drama, epic historical romantic drama film directed by Ashutosh Gowariker. It stars Hrithik Roshan and Aishwarya Rai, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan in the titular roles. Set in the 16th centu ...
'', the lead character portrayed by
Aishwarya Rai Bachchan
Aishwarya Rai Bachchan ( Rai; born 1 November 1973) is an Indian actress who is primarily known for her work in Hindi and Tamil films. The winner of the Miss World 1994 pageant, she has established herself as one of the most popular celebriti ...
was extensively shown wearing Kundan jewellery, highlighting its influence among
Rajasthan
Rajasthan (; lit. 'Land of Kings') is a state in northern India. It covers or 10.4 per cent of India's total geographical area. It is the largest Indian state by area and the seventh largest by population. It is on India's northwestern si ...
i royalty.
In 2006, "American Diamond" and Kundan jewellery contributed the largest share of both market value and volume (73 per cent) in the Indian jewellery market.
Indian Art Jewellery Market
''Business Standard
''Business Standard'' is an Indian English-language daily edition newspaper published by Business Standard Private Limited, also available in Hindi. Founded in 1975, the newspaper covers the Indian economy, infrastructure, international busine ...
'', Mumbai 28 November 2006.
Process
Kundan jewellery is created by setting carefully shaped, uncut diamonds and polished multicoloured gemstones into an exquisitely designed pure gold or faux metal base. The elaborate process begins with the skeletal framework called ''Ghaat''. Thereafter, the ''Paadh'' procedure takes place, during which wax is poured onto the framework and moulded according to the design. Following this is the ''Khudai'' process, when the stones or uncut gems are fit into the framework. Meenakari then involves enameling to define the design details. Next, the ''Pakai'' process involves gold foils that hold the gems onto the framework; these are cold soldered using burnishing techniques. Finally, the gems are polished using the ''Chillai'' process.
See also
* Polki diamonds
Gallery
File:Hathphul (bracelet), India, Rajasthan, probably Jaipur, Mughal period, 18th century, gold, white sapphires, rubies, enamel - Royal Ontario Museum - DSC04563.JPG
File:DeaMann Collections.jpg
File:Arm ornament, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India, 19th century, gold and clear stones, Honolulu Academy of Arts.JPG
File:India moghul, pendente d'oro diamanti e rubini a forma di uccello, xvii sec.JPG
File:WLA haa Gold belt Tamil Oddiyanam 3.jpg
References
{{Reflist
Hindi words and phrases
Indian culture
Jewellery of India
Necklaces
Rajasthani culture