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Kristen McMenamy (born December 13, 1964) is an American supermodel known for her unconventional,
androgynous Androgyny is the possession of both masculine and feminine characteristics. Androgyny may be expressed with regard to biological sex, gender identity, or gender expression. When ''androgyny'' refers to mixed biological sex characteristics i ...
appearance. Originally a long-haired redhead, she reinvented her look in the early 1990s by having her hair cut short and dyed black, and her eyebrows shaved off. Her career was boosted by the advent of the
grunge Grunge (sometimes referred to as the Seattle sound) is an alternative rock genre and subculture that emerged during the in the American Pacific Northwest state of Washington, particularly in Seattle and nearby towns. Grunge fuses elements of p ...
fashion trend.


Early life

McMenamy was born in Easton, Pennsylvania and also spent some time in her youth in Buffalo, New York. She was the third of seven children in an Irish-American Catholic family. McMenamy attended Notre Dame High School in Easton, where she received excellent grades, but was often teased by her classmates, who called her "Skeleton" due to her lanky body. While in college, she decided to drop out of school to pursue a career in modeling. After heading to New York City, she was rejected by various modeling agencies. She nonetheless continued following her dream to model. She later recounted, "I got rejected by everyone. But I was obsessed! It was the only thing I wanted to do and I wanted it so badly. I was like a bulldog, hanging on by my teeth."


Career


1984–1998

Upon meeting the modeling agent Eileen Ford, McMenamy was told to consider getting plastic surgery. Despite that, she managed to get signed by an agency that sent her to work in Paris. A few years later, she was signed by Elite Model Management, and subsequently by Ford Models. McMenamy's modeling career mainly spanned the years 1985 to 1998, when she worked for many of the world's top designers and international fashion houses, such as Versace,
Giorgio Armani Giorgio Armani (; born 11 July 1934) is an Italian fashion designer. He first gained notoriety working for Cerruti and then for many others, including Allegri, Bagutta and Hilton. He formed his company, Armani, in 1975, which eventually expande ...
, Valentino, Todd Oldham,
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses a ...
,
Sonia Rykiel Sonia Rykiel (; ; 25 May 1930 – 25 August 2016) was a French fashion designer and writer. She created the Poor Boy Sweater, which was featured on the cover of French ''Elle'' magazine. Her knitwear designs and new fashion techniques led her t ...
, Dolce & Gabbana, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gianfranco Ferré,
Lanvin Lanvin () is a French Luxury goods, luxury fashion house based in Paris. Founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin, it is the oldest French fashion house still in operation. Since 2018, it has been a subsidiary of Shanghai-based Lanvin Group. Bruno Sialel ...
, Isaac Mizrahi, Yohji Yamamoto,
Thierry Mugler Manfred Thierry Mugler (; 21 December 1948 – 23 January 2022) was a French fashion designer, creative director and creative adviser of Mugler. In the 1970s, Mugler launched his eponymous fashion house; and quickly rose to prominence in the fo ...
, Comme des Garçons, Chloé, and
Moschino Moschino () is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino in Milan known for over-the-top, campy designs. The company specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, and fashion accessories. History Founding and 1990s Franco Mosc ...
. During the early stage of her modeling career, McMenamy met two of the men who would become instrumental in her success as a model: photographer Peter Lindbergh, with whom she worked extensively, and
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head designer Karl Lagerfeld, to whom she became a muse. One of her first fashion campaigns was for Chanel's spring/summer 1985
haute couture ''Haute couture'' (; ; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design that is constructed by hand from start-to-finish. Beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, Paris became th ...
collection. That same year, she was photographed by Lindbergh for a Jil Sander ad campaign, and she also starred in an ad campaign for the Byblos fashion house. In 1986, she was featured in the book ''A Day in the Life of America'', photographed by
Sante D'Orazio Sante D'Orazio is an American photographer. D'Orazio exhibited in the Kunsthaus Munich, Kunsthauswien Vienna, the L.A. County Museum, Kahmann Gallery (Amsterdam), Stellan Holm Gallery (New York), Cameraworks Gallery (Berlin) Hilario Galguera ...
, and also appeared in advertisements for Gerard Darel and Alberta Ferretti. She has also worked with many other fashion photographers, including Albert Watson,
Helmut Newton Helmut Newton (born Helmut Neustädter; 31 October 192023 January 2004) was a German-Australian photographer. The ''New York Times'' described him as a "prolific, widely imitated fashion photographer whose provocative, erotically charged black-a ...
, Richard Avedon,
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, Ellen von Unwerth,
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,
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, Patrick Demarchelier, Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Tim Walker,
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,
Max Vadukul Max Vadukul (born 2 February 1961, Nairobi, Kenya) is a British photographer who is based in New York City.Bellafante, Ginia."Front Row" ''The New York Times'', 7 November 2000. Retrieved 17 February 2008. He is noted for his art reportageGaller ...
, and Juergen Teller. She became a muse to Teller, who has described her as "the best model I have ever worked with". In 1991, McMenamy starred in the ad campaign for
Claude Montana Claude Montana (29 June 1947 in Paris) is a French fashion designer. His company, The House of Montana, founded in 1979, went bankrupt in 1997. Early life and Design career Born in Paris in 1947 to a Catalan father and a German mother, Montana be ...
's spring/summer collection, and was paired with model
Claudia Mason Claudia Mason (born March 9, 1973) is an American model and actress. Mason has been featured on the covers of many fashion magazines including Vogue, Elle, W and Cosmopolitan. Mason has appeared in fashion campaigns for the likes of Louis Vuitt ...
for Fendi's fall/winter ad campaign. It has been said of McMenamy that "At the time of supermodels, she was the first eccentric and unusual beauty to fight her way through a host of classically beautiful women, thus appearing on the covers of '' Vogue'' and on other famous magazines." Some of the other magazines that she has been featured in are ''
Harper's Bazaar ''Harper's Bazaar'' is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. It was first published in New York City on November 2, 1867, as the weekly ''Harper's Bazar''. ''Harper's Bazaar'' is published by Hearst and considers itself to be the st ...
'', '' Vanity Fair'', '' People'', '' Interview'', '' Elle'', '' V'', '' Dazed & Confused'', '' LOVE'', ''
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'', ''
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'', '' W'', '' Women's Wear Daily'', and '' Newsweek''. McMenamy was known for having an over-the-top manner of walking on the catwalk, and was likened to "a vamp, stopping to strike exaggerated poses". In 1992, after having her long red hair cut short and dyed black, makeup artist François Nars shaved off her eyebrows for Anna Sui's fall/winter fashion show, thereby "ushering in the era of grunge". The transformation of McMenamy's look made her famous, and her career took off. From that point on, her image became associated with androgyny, and she was also considered a
gamine A gamine is a slim, often boyish, elegant young woman who is, or is perceived to be, mischievous, teasing or sexually appealing. The word ''gamine'' is a French word, the feminine form of ''gamin'', originally meaning urchin, waif or playful, ...
. In October 1992, she opened the Versace spring/summer 1993 womenswear fashion show, and she later appeared in the ad campaign for that collection, photographed by Avedon. In December 1992, she starred in a grunge photo spread for ''Vogue'' titled "Grunge & Glory", photographed by Meisel. ''Harper's Bazaar'' named her "Model of the Year" in January 1993. The following month, she had six red ribbons painted on her back, for an amfAR benefit event that she co-hosted with Leanza Cornett. McMenamy also fronted advertisements for
Calvin Klein Calvin Richard Klein (born November 19, 1942) is an American fashion designer who launched the company that would later become Calvin Klein Inc., in 1968. In addition to clothing, he also has given his name to a range of perfumes, watches, and ...
that year. In October 1994, she was one several models on the cover of '' Vogue Italias 30th anniversary issue. The following year, she closed the Versace spring/summer Haute couture show wearing a bridal gown. She then starred in the ad campaign for that collection along with model