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Kosrae ( ), formerly known as Kusaie or Strong's Island, is an island in the Federated States of Micronesia. The State of Kosrae is one of the four states of the Federated States of Micronesia, and includes the main island of Kosrae and a few nearby islands and islets, the most significant of which ( Lelu Island) is inhabited by 1,500 people. Kosrae's land area is , sustaining 6,600 people. Tofol is the state capital, and Mt. Finkol is the highest point at .


History

Archaeological evidence shows that the island was settled at least by the early years of the first millennium AD. This includes the city of Leluh that existed from about 1250 to 1850 AD, and in its heyday had a population of about 1,500 and covered some 27 hectares. It featured burial pyramids for the nobility.


French Visitors

The French corvette S. M. '' La Coquille'', arrived at Okat Harbor on 3 June 1824 and visited until 15 June 1824. Commanded by
Louis-Isidore Duperrey Louis-Isidore Duperrey (21 October 1786 – 25 August 1865) was a French naval officer and explorer. Biography Early life Louis-Isidore Duperrey was born in 1786. Career He joined the navy in 1802, and served as marine hydrologist to Louis de ...
, ''La Coquille'', on its circumnavigation of the earth (1822–1825) with Jules Dumont d'Urville as second. René-Primevère Lesson also traveled on ''Coquille'' as a naval doctor and naturalist. ''La Coquille'' anchored in Kosrae for ten days. During this visit, several crew walked across the island and visited the island of Lelu.


Spanish Colonization

The first recorded sighting by Westerners was by the Spanish navigator Álvaro de Saavedra on 14 September 1529 when trying to return from Tidore to
New Spain New Spain, officially the Viceroyalty of New Spain ( es, Virreinato de Nueva España, ), or Kingdom of New Spain, was an integral territorial entity of the Spanish Empire, established by Habsburg Spain during the Spanish colonization of the Am ...
. The island was under nominal Spanish sovereignty since 1668, but it was not effectively occupied until 1885. By the time of the island's first contact with European travelers in 1824, Kosrae had a highly stratified society, typical of the surrounding islands of the time. Its cultural features included matrilineal lineage and clans, with a feudal structure of "nobles" controlling land worked by "commoners" and settlements consisting of small groups of close relatives sharing a single cook house. The first missionary post was established by
Congregationalists Congregational churches (also Congregationalist churches or Congregationalism) are Protestant churches in the Calvinist tradition practising congregationalist church governance, in which each congregation independently and autonomously runs its ...
in 1852, and virtually the whole island had converted to Christianity by the 1870s. Today, many sects of Christianity are represented on Kosrae, and religion still plays an integral role in culture. The notorious captain and
blackbirder Blackbirding involves the coercion of people through deception or kidnapping to work as slaves or poorly paid labourers in countries distant from their native land. The term has been most commonly applied to the large-scale taking of people ...
Bully Hayes was shipwrecked on Kosrae on March 15, 1874, when his ship ''Leonora'' was caught in Utwe harbor during a storm. Bully Hayes made his home in Utwe for seven months, during which he terrorized the local people. In September 1874, HMS ''Rosario'' (under the command of Captain Dupuis) arrived to investigate the claims against Hayes. He was arrested, but then escaped in a 14-foot boat, built of timber from the wreck of the ''Leonora''. His treasure may have been left behind, buried somewhere in the forest, although subsequent diggings have failed to uncover it. The existence of this buried money is part of the myths that surround Hayes. In 1885, after a dispute between the Spanish Empire and the German Empire, finally resolved under the terms of the Vatican State, the Spanish Navy took effective control of the island.


German and Japanese rule (1899-1945)

After the Spanish defeat against the United States in the war of 1898, on February the 2nd 1899 Spain sold the Carolinas Islands to Germany for 25 million pesetas (17 million German marks). The island came under the control of the Empire of Japan after World War I. Extensive economic improvements took place during the Japanese
South Seas Mandate The South Seas Mandate, officially the Mandate for the German Possessions in the Pacific Ocean Lying North of the Equator, was a League of Nations mandate in the "South Seas" given to the Empire of Japan by the League of Nations following Wo ...
of 1919 to 1947. The island was practically run by a few missionaries who converted the population;
Willard Price Willard DeMille Price (28 July 1887 – 14 October 1983) was a Canadian-born American traveller, journalist and author. Early life Price was born to a family of devout Methodism, Methodists in Peterborough, Ontario. When he was four years ol ...
, when he visited in the 1930s, reported that the island had no jail, there had been no murders in sixty years, and alcohol and tobacco were unheard of. The island was fortified by the Japanese during World War II, but no battles occurred on Kosrae. The Japanese
garrison A garrison (from the French ''garnison'', itself from the verb ''garnir'', "to equip") is any body of troops stationed in a particular location, originally to guard it. The term now often applies to certain facilities that constitute a mil ...
commanded by Lieutenant-General Yoshikazu Harada consisted of 3,811
IJA IJA may refer to: * Imperial Japanese Army * ''International Journal of Astrobiology'' * International Jugglers' Association * ''International Journal of Audiology'' * International Juridical Association (1931–1942) {{disambiguation ...
men including a company of tanks and 700
IJA IJA may refer to: * Imperial Japanese Army * ''International Journal of Astrobiology'' * International Jugglers' Association * ''International Journal of Audiology'' * International Juridical Association (1931–1942) {{disambiguation ...
men. Tunnel bunkers that have multiple entrances were dug into the island's interior peaks and most can still be explored today.


United States rule (1945)

The island became part of the vast US Naval Base Marshall Islands. In 1945, administration over Kosrae passed to the United States, which ruled the island as part of the Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands. Aid and investment increased from the 1960s. During the Trust Territory (TTPI) period, Kosrae was initially administered as one of the municipalities of the
Ponape Ponape may refer to: * Pohnpei, an island in the Federated States of Micronesia * ''Ponape'' (barque), a German sailing ship {{disambiguation ...
(Pohnpei) District, but in 1977 became a separate district. When the Micronesian constitution was defeated in the TTPI districts of Palau and the Marshall Islands, Kosrae joined the remaining districts ( Yap, Chuuk and
Pohnpei Pohnpei "upon (''pohn'') a stone altar (''pei'')" (formerly known as Ponape or Ascension, Proto-Chuukic-Pohnpeic: ''*Fawo ni pei)'' is an island of the Senyavin Islands which are part of the larger Caroline Islands group. It belongs to Pohnpei ...
) to form the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM). Kosrae is the only single-island FSM state (whereby the seven or eight small nearshore islands within the fringing reef, most importantly Lelu Island, are subsumed under the main island), while the other three states are each composed of many islands. Until 1977, Kosrae was subdivided into districts or villages at the sub-municipality level: # Lelu (consisting of Lelu Island only) # Yepen (mainland part of today's Lelu municipality, with Tofol, the state capital) # Tafunsak (roughly corresponding to today's Tafunsak municipality) # Malem (roughly corresponding to today's Malem municipality) # Utwe (roughly corresponding to today's Utwe municipality) By 1980, five municipalities had been created from the former villages or districts: # Lelu (created from the villages of Lelu district (island) and Yepen district) # Tafunsak (created from the northeastern part of Tafunsak district) # Walung (created from the southwestern part of Tafunsak district) # Malem (created from Malem district) # Utwe (created from Utwe district) The number of municipalities has subsequently been reduced to four (by integrating Walung into Tafunsak).


Geography

Kosrae, the easternmost of the Caroline Islands, has a population of 6,616 (2010 census). It is located approximately north of the equator, between Guam and the
Hawaiian Islands The Hawaiian Islands ( haw, Nā Mokupuni o Hawai‘i) are an archipelago of eight major islands, several atolls, and numerous smaller islets in the North Pacific Ocean, extending some from the island of Hawaii in the south to northernmost Kur ...
. It has a land area of approximately . Some parts of the island are experiencing coastal erosion. Kosrae is a high island that is largely unspoiled. It is becoming a destination for
scuba divers This is a list of underwater divers whose exploits have made them notable. Underwater divers are people who take part in underwater diving activities – Underwater diving is practiced as part of an occupation, or for recreation, where t ...
and hikers. The coral reefs that surround the island are kept in pristine condition through an extensive mooring buoy system, installed and maintained by concerned expat dive operators with the help of the government's Marine Resources office. The reefs are largely untouched, and contain miles of hard corals, some said to be thousands of years old. Dense vegetation and steep mountains keep the island largely undeveloped. Viewed from the ocean, the island's distinct shape resembles a female body. This has led to the island being called "the island of the sleeping lady." Kosrae International Airport (
IATA The International Air Transport Association (IATA ) is a trade association of the world's airlines founded in 1945. IATA has been described as a cartel since, in addition to setting technical standards for airlines, IATA also organized tariff ...
code KSA) is located on an artificial island within the fringing reef about from the coast and is connected to the main island by a new bridge that opened to the public in January 2016. It is served by United Airlines (formerly
Continental Micronesia Continental Micronesia, Inc. (CMI) was a company which was a wholly owned subsidiary of Continental Airlines. It operated daily flights to Honolulu, Hawaii, as well as international services to Asia, Micronesia and Australia from its base of ...
)
Island Hopper The Island Hopper is an airline route between Guam and Honolulu, Hawaii, via several small islands in the Federated States of Micronesia and the Marshall Islands. The route, currently operated by United and originally by Continental Micronesia, is ...
737-800 flights (thrice a week in each direction) between Hawaii and Guam, stopping at other FSM (Pohnpei and Chuuk) and Marshallese destinations on the way. Nauru Airlines also connect weekly with their fleet of 737-300 jets to Brisbane in Australia and Nadi in Fiji. There is one significant nearshore island within the fringing reef around Kosrae, which is Lelu Island, and it is only in area, but with a population of around 1,500. It belongs to Lelu municipality, which includes the area around Tofol, the state capital. Other very small, uninhabited islands within the fringing reef are, Yen Yen and Yenasr (also in Lelu municipality), the airport island, Kiul, Mutunyal, Sroansak (Tafunsak municipality), and Srukames (also Tafunsak municipality, Walung part).


Municipalities

Kosrae State is subdivided into four municipalities. Of the originally five municipalities of 1980, Walung was subsequently absorbed by Tafunsak. The capital of the state is Tofol, in Lelu municipality.


Politics and government

The State of Kosrae is one of the four federal states of the Federated States of Micronesia. As a
democratic Democrat, Democrats, or Democratic may refer to: Politics *A proponent of democracy, or democratic government; a form of government involving rule by the people. *A member of a Democratic Party: **Democratic Party (United States) (D) **Democratic ...
federation, each state has the ability to retain large number of powers within the state as well as a certain level of sovereignty typical of federal states. The chief executive of Kosrae is
the governor A governor is an official, usually acting as the executive of a non-sovereign level of government. Governor may also refer to: Leadership * Governor (China), the head of government of a province * Governor (Japan), the highest ranking executive ...
. Kosrae has a unicameral legislature.


Economy

In early times, a system of exchange based on sea shells existed on Kosrae, although little is currently known about how it operated. Since the 1960s, the Kosraean government has become the main employer on the island, where fishing and traditional farming remain the main source of the islanders' subsistence. Imports have replaced almost all other native manufactures. The U.S dollar is the official currency used in Kosrae and throughout Micronesia. The tourism industry to date has mainly centered around scuba diving on the coral reef that rings the island. Surfing, hiking and stand up paddle-boarding through the extensive mangrove system is growing in popularity. The annual Rockhopper running race commenced in 2013 and attracts several dozen competitors from the nearby islands of Kwajalein and Pohnpei.


Resort sold by raffle

In July 2016, the Kosrae Nautilus Resort was won in a raffle promoted worldwide. The previous owners, Doug and Sally Beitz, were persuaded by family to conduct the raffle rather than sell the resort, ahead of returning to Australia. The winner, Joshua, is from the state of New South Wales,
Australia Australia, officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a Sovereign state, sovereign country comprising the mainland of the Australia (continent), Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous List of islands of Australia, sma ...
. Joshua will become owner of a resort, which is free of debt, profitable and has more than 20 years remaining on its lease.


Education

The
Kosrae Department of Education Kosrae State Department of Education (KDOE) is an agency of Kosrae State, Federated States of Micronesia that operates public schools. It is headquartered in Tofol.
(DOE) operates six public elementary schools (Tafunsak Elementary School, Malem Elementary School, Utwe Elementary School, Lelu Elementary School, Sansrik Elementary School, Walung Elementary School) and one high school ( Kosrae High School). There is also one private school (Kosrae Seventh-day Adventist School). In July 2011, Kosrae DOE embraced the One Laptop per Child program, distributing 720 "XO" computers to children in its public elementary schools, becoming the first State of Micronesia to do so.


Languages

The official language of Kosrae is
Kosraean Kosraean , sometimes rendered Kusaiean, is the language spoken on the islands of Kosrae (Kusaie), a nation-state of the Federated States of Micronesia, Caroline Islands. In 2001 there were approximately 8,000 speakers in Micronesia, and 9,060 i ...
, although the English language may also be used in government discourse. According to the Constitution of Kosrae, English is held to have "equal authority" to Kosraean (although in an instance where the Kosraean and English versions of the Constitution are held to be in irresolvable conflict, the Kosraean version prevails). However, the national language of the FSM is English.


Food

Traditional foods have included
breadfruit Breadfruit (''Artocarpus altilis'') is a species of flowering tree in the mulberry and jackfruit family (Moraceae) believed to be a domesticated descendant of ''Artocarpus camansi'' originating in New Guinea, the Maluku Islands, and the Philippi ...
,
coconut The coconut tree (''Cocos nucifera'') is a member of the palm tree family ( Arecaceae) and the only living species of the genus ''Cocos''. The term "coconut" (or the archaic "cocoanut") can refer to the whole coconut palm, the seed, or the ...
,
banana A banana is an elongated, edible fruit – botanically a berry – produced by several kinds of large herbaceous flowering plants in the genus ''Musa''. In some countries, bananas used for cooking may be called "plantains", distinguis ...
, taro,
yam Yam or YAM may refer to: Plants and foods *Yam (vegetable), common name for members of ''Dioscorea'' * Taro, known in Malaysia and Singapore as yam * Sweet potato, specifically its orange-fleshed cultivars, often referred to as yams in North Amer ...
, and
sugarcane Sugarcane or sugar cane is a species of (often hybrid) tall, Perennial plant, perennial grass (in the genus ''Saccharum'', tribe Andropogoneae) that is used for sugar Sugar industry, production. The plants are 2–6 m (6–20 ft) tall with ...
. Breadfruit was the usual staple food, and it was preserved in leaf-lined pits for times of scarcity. Coconuts were reserved for nobles. Food was a central part of island life, since each settlement consisted of small family groups gathered around a cook house containing at least one earth oven. Soft taro was made into a feast food called '' fahfah'' by men trained in the elaborate skills needed to prepare it properly, who also prepared suhka (
Kava Kava or kava kava (''Piper methysticum'': Latin 'pepper' and Latinized Greek 'intoxicating') is a crop of the Pacific Islands. The name ''kava'' is from Tongan and Marquesan, meaning 'bitter'; other names for kava include ''ʻawa'' (Hawaiʻi), ...
). Brewed from the roots of a mountain plant, Suhka was served to members of the nobility. Fish were harvested mainly from the lagoon using nets. * Today food for most families consists of imported rice and tinned meats and fish, combined with fresh local fish and root crops. Even today, ''fahfah'' and pork are considered mainly feast foods. It is thought that the Japanese introduced lime trees to the island, which now bear fruit almost all year round and are considered to be of high quality. A variety of tangerines, which are green when ripe, also abound, and are famous and sought after throughout the surrounding islands. Mountain apples, a tropical tree fruit unrelated to apples (Malus), are grown in many parts of Kosrae as are the delicious strawberry papayas and pineapples. There are many varieties of bananas that are some of the best tasting to be found anywhere, some that must be cooked before eating and others that can be eaten when still greenish (KALIFORNI). A few local farmers are growing and exporting to the Marshall Islands a variety of vegetables such as cucumbers, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, egg plant, squash, cantaloupe and watermelons.


Land snails of Kosrae

There are at least 15 species of land snails reported from Kosrae: *
Assimineidae Assimineidae is a family of minute snails, also known as palmleaf snails, with an operculum, gastropod mollusks or micromollusks in the superfamily Rissoidae. Many of these very small snails live in intermediate habitats, being amphibious betwee ...
- ''Omphalotropis laevis'' * Diplommatinidae - ''
Palaina ''Palaina'' is a genus of minute land snails with opercula, terrestrial gastropod mollusks or micromollusks in the family Diplommatinidae Diplommatinidae is a family of small land snails, also known as staircase snails, with an operculum, ...
'' sp. * Helicinidae - ''Pleurotoma zonata'' * Hydrobiidae - undescribed species *
Pupinidae Pupinidae is a taxonomic family of land snails with an operculum, terrestrial gastropod mollusks in the superfamily Cyclophoroidea (according to the taxonomy of the Gastropoda by Bouchet & Rocroi, 2005).MolluscaBase eds. (2021). MolluscaBase ...
- ''
Pupina ''Pupina'' is a genus of land snails with an operculum, terrestrial gastropod mollusks in the subfamily Pupillinae of the family Pupinidae. MolluscaBase eds. (2022). MolluscaBase. Pupina Vignard, 1829. Accessed through: World Register of Marine ...
'' sp. * Achatinellidae - two undescribed species * Charopidae - ''
Sinployea ''Sinployea'' is a genus of small air-breathing land snails, terrestrial animal, terrestrial pulmonate gastropod mollusks in the family Charopidae.Marshall, B. (2015). Sinployea. In: MolluscaBase (2015). Accessed through: World Register of Marin ...
kusaieana'' * Ellobiidae - '' Melampus'' cs. ''luteus'' * Helicarionidae - ''Kororia palaensis'' * Pupillidae - undescribed species * Rhytididae - '' Delos oualanensis'' * Achatinidae -
Subulininae Subulininae is a subfamily of small tropical air-breathing land snails, terrestrial pulmonate gastropod mollusks in the family Achatinidae. Distribution Worldwide.
, '' Allopeas clavulinum,'' ''
Subulina octona ''Subulina octona'' is a species of small, tropical, air-breathing land snail, a terrestrial pulmonate gastropod mollusk in the family Achatinidae. Distribution The native distribution of this species includes: * Caribbean * CubaVeronicellidae - an unidentified juvenile


Notable people

* Adelyn Noda - Kosrae's youngest ordained deaconess.


See also

*
Kosrae crake The Kosrae crake or Kusaie Island crake (''Zapornia monasa''), sometimes also stated as Kittlitz's rail, is an extinct bird from the family Rallidae. It occurred on the island of Kosrae and perhaps on Pohnpei, Ponape in the south-western Pacific ...
*
Kosrae starling The Kosrae starling, also known as Kosrae Island starling, and formerly as Kusaie Mountain starling, (''Aplonis corvina'') is an extinct bird from the family of starlings (Sturnidae). It was endemic to the montane forests on the island of Kosrae ...
*
Kosrae flying fox The Kosrae flying fox (''Pteropus ualanus'') is a species of megabat in the genus ''Pteropus'' found on the island of Kosrae, Micronesia Micronesia (, ) is a subregion of Oceania, consisting of about 2,000 small islands in the western Pac ...


References


External links


Constitution of the State of Kosrae
{{Authority control States of the Federated States of Micronesia Caroline Islands 1668 establishments in the Spanish Empire