Jura, Scotland
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Jura ( ; gd, Diùra; sco, Jura) is an island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, adjacent to and northeast of Islay. With an area of , and 196 inhabitants recorded in the 2011 census, Jura is more sparsely populated than Islay, and is one of the least densely populated islands of Scotland: in a list of the
islands of Scotland This is a list of islands of Scotland, the mainland of which is part of the island of Great Britain. Also included are various other related tables and lists. The definition of an offshore island used in this list is "land that is surrounded by ...
ranked by size, Jura comes eighth, whereas by population it comes 31st. The island is mountainous, bare and largely infertile, covered by extensive areas of
blanket bog Blanket bog or blanket mire, also known as featherbed bog, is an area of peatland, forming where there is a climate of high rainfall and a low level of evapotranspiration, allowing peat to develop not only in wet hollows but over large expanses o ...
. The main settlement is the east coast village of
Craighouse Craighouse ( gd, Taigh na Creige) is the main settlement and capital of the Scottish Inner Hebridean island of Jura, in Argyll and Bute. In 1971 it had a population of 113. The village is situated on the sheltered east coast of the island at t ...
. The
Jura distillery Jura distillery is a Scotch whisky distillery on the island of Jura in the Inner Hebrides off the West Coast of Scotland. The distillery is owned by Glasgow founded and based Whyte and Mackay, which in turn is owned by Philippines-based Emp ...
, producing Isle of Jura single malt whisky, is in the village, as is the island's rum distillery which opened in 2021. Craighouse also houses the island's shop, church, primary school, the Jura hotel and bar, a gallery, craft shop, tearoom and the community run petrol pumps. North of Craighouse are a number of other small settlements on or near the east coast:
Keils Keils formerly Kilearnadill is a hamlet from Craighouse on the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. Keils is located on a wide elevated but distinct ridge. History The name "Keils" means "Cell". Landmarks On the ...
, Knockrome, Ardfernal, Lagg,
Tarbert Tarbert ( gd, An Tairbeart) is a place name in Scotland and Ireland. Places named Tarbert are characterised by a narrow strip of land, or isthmus. This can be where two lochs nearly meet, or a causeway out to an island. Etymology All placenames ...
,
Ardlussa Ardlussa is a hamlet and estate on The Long Road, just north of the Lussa River, overlooking Ardlussa Bay on the east coast of the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. Estate buildings line the road, and the area fe ...
(home of Lussa Gin) and
Inverlussa Inverlussa is a hamlet southwest of Ardlussa and 14 miles from Craighouse at the mouth of Lussa River on the east coast of the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. It is largely a linear settlement A linear settle ...
. George Orwell lived on Jura intermittently from 1946 to 1949, and completed his novel ''
Nineteen Eighty-Four ''Nineteen Eighty-Four'' (also stylised as ''1984'') is a dystopian social science fiction novel and cautionary tale written by the English writer George Orwell. It was published on 8 June 1949 by Secker & Warburg as Orwell's ninth and fina ...
'' while living at a remote farmhouse. Between Jura's northern tip and the island of
Scarba Scarba ( gd, Sgarba) is an island, in Argyll and Bute, Scotland, just north of the much larger island of Jura. The island was owned by Richard Hill, 7th Baron Sandys, and has not been permanently inhabited since the 1960s. It is now covered in ...
lies the
Gulf of Corryvreckan The Gulf of Corryvreckan (from the Gaelic ''Coire Bhreacain'', meaning 'cauldron of the speckled seas' or 'cauldron of the plaid'), also called the Strait of Corryvreckan, is a narrow strait between the islands of Jura and Scarba, in Argyll and ...
, where a
whirlpool A whirlpool is a body of rotating water produced by opposing currents or a current running into an obstacle. Small whirlpools form when a bath or a sink is draining. More powerful ones formed in seas or oceans may be called maelstroms ( ). ''Vo ...
makes passage dangerous at certain states of the tide. The southern part of the island, from Loch Tarbert southwards, is designated a national scenic area (NSA), one of 40 such areas in Scotland. The Jura NSA covers : 21,072 of land and 9,245 of adjacent sea.


Name

The modern name ''Jura'' dates from the Norse-Gael era. Two different
Old Norse Old Norse, Old Nordic, or Old Scandinavian, is a stage of development of North Germanic languages, North Germanic dialects before their final divergence into separate Nordic languages. Old Norse was spoken by inhabitants of Scandinavia and t ...
words have been suggested: * meaning 'deer island' is the generally accepted derivation. * , meaning 'udder island', in reference to the
Paps of Jura The Paps of Jura ( gd, Sgurr na Cìche) are three mountains on the western side of the island of Jura, Scotland, Jura, in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. Their highest point is . They are steep-sided quartzite hills with distinctive conical sh ...
. The name was recorded in 678 as , possibly meaning "Doraid's Island".


Settlements


OS settlements

Places classified as settlements by the Ordnance Survey include: * Ardfernal *
Ardmenish Ardmenish ( gd, Àird Mhèanais) is a largely cleared village on the island of Jura, in Argyll and Bute Argyll and Bute ( sco, Argyll an Buit; gd, Earra-Ghàidheal agus Bòd, ) is one of 32 unitary authority council areas in Scotland and ...
*
Craighouse Craighouse ( gd, Taigh na Creige) is the main settlement and capital of the Scottish Inner Hebridean island of Jura, in Argyll and Bute. In 1971 it had a population of 113. The village is situated on the sheltered east coast of the island at t ...
*
Inverlussa Inverlussa is a hamlet southwest of Ardlussa and 14 miles from Craighouse at the mouth of Lussa River on the east coast of the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. It is largely a linear settlement A linear settle ...
*
Keils Keils formerly Kilearnadill is a hamlet from Craighouse on the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. Keils is located on a wide elevated but distinct ridge. History The name "Keils" means "Cell". Landmarks On the ...
*
Kinuachdrachd Kinuachdrachd or Kinuachdrach is a place about 22 miles from Craighouse on the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. It comprises a house west of the Aird of Kinuachdrachd. On the 1982 OS 1:10000 map there were 4 buil ...
* Knockrome * Lagg * Leargybreck *
Tarbert Tarbert ( gd, An Tairbeart) is a place name in Scotland and Ireland. Places named Tarbert are characterised by a narrow strip of land, or isthmus. This can be where two lochs nearly meet, or a causeway out to an island. Etymology All placenames ...


Not OS settlements

These places are not classified as settlements by the Ordnance Survey but are shown on the A-Z Great Britain Road atlas 2022 *
Ardfin Ardfin is a country estate on the island of Jura, Inner Hebrides, Scotland. It is situated at the southern tip of the island, between Feolin and Craighouse. It includes Jura House which is a Category C listed building. The old house was extende ...
*
Ardlussa Ardlussa is a hamlet and estate on The Long Road, just north of the Lussa River, overlooking Ardlussa Bay on the east coast of the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. Estate buildings line the road, and the area fe ...
* Cabrach * Feolin Ferry * Lealt * Lussagiven


Geology

Jura is composed largely of
Dalradian The Dalradian Supergroup (informally and traditionally the Dalradian) is a stratigraphic unit (a sequence of rock strata) in the lithostratigraphy of the Grampian Highlands of Scotland and in the north and west of Ireland. The diverse assembla ...
quartzite Quartzite is a hard, non- foliated metamorphic rock which was originally pure quartz sandstone.Essentials of Geology, 3rd Edition, Stephen Marshak, p 182 Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tec ...
, a hard
metamorphic rock Metamorphic rocks arise from the transformation of existing rock to new types of rock in a process called metamorphism. The original rock ( protolith) is subjected to temperatures greater than and, often, elevated pressure of or more, caus ...
that provides the jagged surface of the Paps. On the western half of the island the quartzite has been penetrated by a number of linear
basalt Basalt (; ) is an aphanitic (fine-grained) extrusive igneous rock formed from the rapid cooling of low-viscosity lava rich in magnesium and iron (mafic lava) exposed at or very near the surface of a rocky planet or moon. More than 90 ...
dykes that were formed during a period of intense volcanic activity in the early
Palaeogene The Paleogene ( ; also spelled Palaeogene or Palæogene; informally Lower Tertiary or Early Tertiary) is a geologic period and system that spans 43 million years from the end of the Cretaceous Period million years ago ( Mya) to the beginning o ...
period, 56 million years ago. The dykes are most apparent on the west coast, where erosion of the less-resistant rock into which they are intruded has left them exposed as natural walls. The west coast also has a number of
raised beach A raised beach, coastal terrace,Pinter, N (2010): 'Coastal Terraces, Sealevel, and Active Tectonics' (educational exercise), from 2/04/2011/ref> or perched coastline is a relatively flat, horizontal or gently inclined surface of marine origin,P ...
es, which are regarded as a geological feature of international importance.


Paps of Jura

The island is dominated by three steep-sided conical
quartzite Quartzite is a hard, non- foliated metamorphic rock which was originally pure quartz sandstone.Essentials of Geology, 3rd Edition, Stephen Marshak, p 182 Sandstone is converted into quartzite through heating and pressure usually related to tec ...
mountain A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. Although definitions vary, a mountain may differ from a plateau in having a limited summit area, and is usually highe ...
s on its western side, the Paps of Jura, which rise to . The term "pap" is often used for a breast-shaped hill. There are three major peaks: * (Gaelic: 'mountain of gold') is the highest, standing at , and is thereby a
Corbett Corbett may refer to: * List of Corbetts (mountains), 222 mountains in Scotland between , with prominence over * Corbett, Oregon, a community in the United States * Corbett Award, US award for athletics administrators * Corbett (surname), people w ...
. * (Gaelic: 'holy mountain') stands at high. * (Gaelic: 'mountain of the
kyle Kyle or Kyles may refer to: Places Canada * Kyle, Saskatchewan, Canada Ireland * Kyle, County Laois * Kyle, County Wexford Scotland * Kyle, Ayrshire, area of Scotland which stretched across parts of modern-day East Ayrshire and South Ayrshir ...
') is the lowest of the Paps, reaching .Haswell-Smith (2004) p. 50 The Paps dominate the landscape in the region and are visible from the
Mull of Kintyre The Mull of Kintyre is the southwesternmost tip of the Kintyre Peninsula (formerly ''Cantyre'') in southwest Scotland. From here, the Antrim coast of Northern Ireland is visible on a calm and clear day, and a historic lighthouse, the second ...
and, on a clear day, from the Isle of Skye and
Northern Ireland Northern Ireland ( ga, Tuaisceart Éireann ; sco, label= Ulster-Scots, Norlin Airlann) is a part of the United Kingdom, situated in the north-east of the island of Ireland, that is variously described as a country, province or region. Nort ...
. The route of the annual
Isle of Jura Fell Race The Isle of Jura Fell Race is an annual fell race held in May, starting and finishing at Craighouse on the Scottish island of Jura. The course loops west and north over several hills including the Paps of Jura. After the last climb to Corra Bhein ...
includes all three Paps and four other hills. These hills were the subject of
William McTaggart William McTaggart (25 October 1835 – 2 April 1910) was a Scottish landscape and marine painter who was influenced by Impressionism. Life and work The son of a crofter, William McTaggart was born in the small village of Aros, near C ...
's 1902 painting ''The Paps of Jura'', displayed in the
Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum is a museum and art gallery in Glasgow, Scotland. It reopened in 2006 after a three-year refurbishment and since then has been one of Scotland's most popular visitor attractions. The museum has 22 galleries, h ...
.


History


Early years

Evidence of settlements on Jura dating from the Mesolithic period was first uncovered by the English archaeologist John Mercer in the 1960s. There is a
Neolithic The Neolithic period, or New Stone Age, is an Old World archaeological period and the final division of the Stone Age. It saw the Neolithic Revolution, a wide-ranging set of developments that appear to have arisen independently in several p ...
chambered cairn at Poll a' Cheo in the southwest of the island. Jura is closer to Ireland's northern province of
Ulster Ulster (; ga, Ulaidh or ''Cúige Uladh'' ; sco, label= Ulster Scots, Ulstèr or ''Ulster'') is one of the four traditional Irish provinces. It is made up of nine counties: six of these constitute Northern Ireland (a part of the United Kin ...
than it is to
Glasgow Glasgow ( ; sco, Glesca or ; gd, Glaschu ) is the most populous city in Scotland and the fourth-most populous city in the United Kingdom, as well as being the 27th largest city by population in Europe. In 2020, it had an estimated popul ...
, so it should not be unexpected that Irish people crossed the
Straits of Moyle The North Channel (known in Irish and Scottish Gaelic as , in Scots as the ) is the strait between north-eastern Northern Ireland and south-western Scotland. It begins north of the Isle of Man, where the Irish Sea ends, and runs north-west in ...
and established the
Gaelic Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, and Ca ...
kingdom of
Dál Riata Dál Riata or Dál Riada (also Dalriada) () was a Gaelic kingdom that encompassed the western seaboard of Scotland and north-eastern Ireland, on each side of the North Channel. At its height in the 6th and 7th centuries, it covered what is n ...
. It was divided into a handful of regions, controlled by particular kin groups, of which the
Cenél nÓengusa The Cenél nÓengusa were a kin group who ruled the island of Islay, and perhaps nearby Colonsay, off the western coast of Scotland in the early Middle Ages. The Senchus fer n-Alban, a census and genealogy of the kingdom of Dál Riata, lists the ...
controlled Jura and Islay. The kingdom thrived for a few centuries, and formed a springboard for
Christianisation Christianization ( or Christianisation) is to make Christian; to imbue with Christian principles; to become Christian. It can apply to the conversion of an individual, a practice, a place or a whole society. It began in the Roman Empire, conti ...
of the mainland. It is believed that Jura may have been
Hinba Hinba is an island in Scotland of uncertain location that was the site of a small monastery associated with the Columban church on Iona. Although a number of details are known about the monastery and its early superiors, and various anecdotes da ...
, the island to which the 6th-century missionary, Columba, retreated from the monastic community he founded on Iona, when he wished for a more contemplative life.


Vikings

Dál Riata was ultimately destroyed when Vikings invaded, and established their own domain, spreading more extensively over the islands north and west of the mainland, including Jura. This became the
Kingdom of the Isles The Kingdom of the Isles consisted of the Isle of Man, the Hebrides and the islands of the Firth of Clyde from the 9th to the 13th centuries AD. The islands were known to the Norse as the , or "Southern Isles" as distinct from the or North ...
, but following the unification of
Norway Norway, officially the Kingdom of Norway, is a Nordic country in Northern Europe, the mainland territory of which comprises the western and northernmost portion of the Scandinavian Peninsula. The remote Arctic island of Jan Mayen and t ...
, the islands were under tenuous Norwegian authority, somewhat resisted by local rulers, like
Godred Crovan Godred Crovan (died 1095), known in Gaelic as Gofraid Crobán, Gofraid Meránach, and Gofraid Méránach, was a Norse-Gaelic ruler of the kingdoms of Dublin and the Isles. Although his precise parentage has not completely been proven, he was c ...
. Following Godred's death, the local population resisted Norway's choice of replacement, causing Magnus, the Norwegian king, to launch a military campaign to assert his authority. In 1098, under pressure from Magnus, the king of Scotland
quitclaim Generally, a quitclaim is a formal renunciation of a legal claim against some other person, or of a right to land. A person who quitclaims renounces or relinquishes a claim to some legal right, or transfers a legal interest in land. Originally a c ...
ed to him all sovereign authority over the isles. To Norway, the islands became known as ''Suðreyjar'' (Old Norse, traditionally anglicised as ''Sodor''), meaning ''southern isles''. The former territory of Dal Riata acquired the geographic description ''Argyle'' (now ''Argyll''): the ''Gaelic coast''. Half a century later, however,
Somerled Somerled (died 1164), known in Middle Irish as Somairle, Somhairle, and Somhairlidh, and in Old Norse as Sumarliði , was a mid-12th-century Norse-Gaelic lord who, through marital alliance and military conquest, rose in prominence to create the ...
, the husband of Godred Crovan's granddaughter, led a successful revolt against Norway, transforming Suðreyjar into an independent kingdom. Somerled built the sea fortress of
Claig Castle Claig Castle was a stronghold of the Clan Donald or MacDonald in the south of Scotland. History The castle was once a massive fort described as a ''sea fortress'', which allowed the Macdonald Lord of the Isles to dominate and control the sea t ...
on an island at the southern tip of Jura, establishing control of the Sound of Islay; on account of the Corryvreckan whirlpool, this essentially gave him control of the sea traffic between the Scottish mainland and the Hebrides. After his death, nominal Norwegian authority was re-established, but de facto authority was split between Somerled's sons and the
Crovan dynasty The Crovan dynasty, from the late 11th century to the mid 13th century, was the ruling family of an insular kingdom known variously in secondary sources as the Kingdom of Mann, the Kingdom of the Isles, and the Kingdom of Mann and the Isles. The ...
. Somerled's son Dougall received the part of Jura north of Loch Tarbert (along with adjacent islands further north), while Dougal's nephew
Donald Donald is a masculine given name derived from the Gaelic name ''Dòmhnall''.. This comes from the Proto-Celtic *''Dumno-ualos'' ("world-ruler" or "world-wielder"). The final -''d'' in ''Donald'' is partly derived from a misinterpretation of the ...
received the rest of Jura, as well as Islay, and lands to the east. It is unclear why Jura was split like this, but it may have been connected to a dispute with Donald's other uncle,
Angus Angus may refer to: Media * ''Angus'' (film), a 1995 film * ''Angus Og'' (comics), in the ''Daily Record'' Places Australia * Angus, New South Wales Canada * Angus, Ontario, a community in Essa, Ontario * East Angus, Quebec Scotland * An ...
, who Donald and his brother had ultimately dispossessed. In the mid 13th century, increased tension between Norway and Scotland led to a series of Battles, culminating in the
Battle of Largs The Battle of Largs (2 October 1263) was a battle between the kingdoms of Norway and Scotland, on the Firth of Clyde near Largs, Scotland. Through it, Scotland achieved the end of 500 years of Norse Viking depredations and invasions despite bei ...
, shortly after which the Norwegian king died. In 1266, his more peaceable successor ceded his nominal authority over Suðreyjar to the Scottish king ( Alexander III) by the
Treaty of Perth The Treaty of Perth, signed 2 July 1266, ended military conflict between Magnus VI of Norway and Alexander III of Scotland over possession of the Hebrides and the Isle of Man. The text of the treaty. The Hebrides and the Isle of Man had becom ...
, in return for a very large sum of money. Alexander generally acknowledged the semi-independent authority of Somerled's heirs.


Lords of the Isles

At the end of the 13th century, king
John Balliol John Balliol ( – late 1314), known derisively as ''Toom Tabard'' (meaning "empty coat" – coat of arms), was King of Scots from 1292 to 1296. Little is known of his early life. After the death of Margaret, Maid of Norway, Scotland entered an ...
was challenged for the throne by Robert de Bruys. By this point, Somerled's descendants had formed into three families: the heirs of Dougall (the MacDougalls), those of Donald (the MacDonalds), and those of Donald's brother (the MacRory); the MacDougalls took John's side, while the MacDonalds and MacRory backed de Bruys. When de Bruys defeated John, he declared the MacDougall lands forfeit, and gave them to the MacDonalds. John of Islay, the head of the MacDonald family married the heir of the MacRory family, thereby acquiring the remaining share of Somerled's realm, and transforming it into the
Lordship of the Isles The Lord of the Isles or King of the Isles ( gd, Triath nan Eilean or ) is a title of Scottish nobility with historical roots that go back beyond the Kingdom of Scotland. It began with Somerled in the 12th century and thereafter the title ...
, which lasted for over a century. Throughout all this time, the descendants of the Cenél nÓengusa had retained their identity; they were now the MacInnes (not to be confused with similarly named groups elsewhere in Scotland). Though the MacDougalls had had authority over part of Jura, the MacInnes had been left in unmolested possession of the land, as vassals. Now, however, with the MacDonalds in charge of the entire island, the situation changed. The head of the MacDonalds was unhappy to have tenants who had supported John Balliol and the MacDougalls, so, in 1358, he asked the chief of the
MacLean MacLean, also spelt Maclean and McLean, is a Gaelic surname Mac Gille Eathain, or, Mac Giolla Eóin in Irish Gaelic), Eóin being a Gaelic form of Johannes (John). The clan surname is an Anglicisation of the Scottish Gaelic "Mac Gille Eathai ...
family to assassinate the MacInnes' leaders; so thorough was this carried out that to this day the MacInnes have had no-one to become their new chief, and consequently they dispersed throughout Scotland. In 1390, the head of the MacDonald family - the Lord of the Isles - granted the MacLeans the lands of northern Jura (the lands which had belonged to the MacInnes). The MacLeans established a castle in Glen Garrisdale, as a stronghold, which they named Aros Castle, like one of their castles elsewhere. Towards the end of the 15th century, the Lords of the Isles made increasing efforts to establish full independence. John MacDonald, the then Lord, launched a severe
raid on Ross The Raid on Ross was a conflict that took place in 1491 in the Scottish Highlands. It was fought between the Clan Mackenzie and several other clans, including the Clan MacDonald of Lochalsh, Clan MacDonald of Clanranald, the Clan Cameron, an ...
, in pursuance of this aim. Within 2 years of the raid, in 1493, the Lordship of the Isles was declared forfeit, and his realm became part of Scotland, rather than a dependency of the Scottish crown. John was exiled from his former lands, and his former subjects now considered themselves to have no superior except the king. A charter was soon sent from the Scottish King confirming this state of affairs; the charter declares that Skye and the Outer Hebrides are to be considered independent from the rest of the former Lordship, leaving only Islay and Jura remaining.


Campbells

Initially, the MacDonalds of Dunnyveg remained landlords of the southern part of Jura. Following John MacDonald's death, his grandson and heir,
Black Donald Black Donald (Scottish Gaelic: ''Domhnall Dubh'' or ''Domnuill-dhu'') is a Highland colloquialism for the Devil in Scottish mythology. The defining characteristic of Black Donald is his cloven feet, which betray whatever disguise he assumes. In h ...
, was being kept a prisoner at Innes Chonnel Castle (a stronghold of the Campbells). In 1501, Donald escaped, triggering an insurrection in his favour in parts of the former Lordship of the Isles. When Donald was recaptured, in 1506, the king took the precaution of transferring the property of the MacDonald family to the Campbells; in Jura, the Campbells of Craignish were the beneficiaries. The Campbells established a base for themselves at Ardfin, at the south of Jura, to replace the nearby MacDonald stronghold of Claig Castle. After a century of intermittent violence between the families, in 1607 the Campbells purchased from the MacDonalds a quitclaim of any rights the latter might have on Jura. Following the
Scottish reformation The Scottish Reformation was the process by which Scotland broke with the Papacy and developed a predominantly Calvinist national Kirk (church), which was strongly Presbyterian in its outlook. It was part of the wider European Protestant Refor ...
, the MacLeans (opponents) and Campbells (supporters) came into dispute; to a certain extent, the Campbells also saw it as an opportunity for territorial expansion. Having complained for several years about harassment from the MacLeans, in 1647 the Campbells launched a surprise attack on Aros Castle, and killed many MacLeans; for many years in the 20th century, a human skull stood on a ledge in a nearby cave, and it was traditionally said to have been the remains of a Maclean who had been killed in this battle. The skull is no longer there, but the latest editions of
Ordnance Survey Ordnance Survey (OS) is the national mapping agency for Great Britain. The agency's name indicates its original military purpose (see ordnance and surveying), which was to map Scotland in the wake of the Jacobite rising of 1745. There was a ...
maps still mark the location as 'Maclean's Skull Cave'.Ordnance Survey ''Landranger'' 1:50000, Sheet 61 (Jura and Colonsay). The north of the island, however, remained in
MacLean MacLean, also spelt Maclean and McLean, is a Gaelic surname Mac Gille Eathain, or, Mac Giolla Eóin in Irish Gaelic), Eóin being a Gaelic form of Johannes (John). The clan surname is an Anglicisation of the Scottish Gaelic "Mac Gille Eathai ...
hands until 1737, when it was sold to Donald MacNeil of Colonsay. The remainder of the island was ruled and largely owned by the Campbells for a total of three centuries, by 11 successive Campbell lairds. Under Campbell influence, shrieval authority was established under the
sheriff of Argyll The Sheriff of Argyll was historically a royal officer charged with enforcing the king's rights in Argyll; in Scotland, the concept of ''sheriff'' gradually evolved into a judicial position. Originally, the region of Argyll was served by the sheri ...
. With inherited Campbell control of the sheriffdom, comital authority was superfluous, and the provincial identity (medieval Latin:''provincia'') of Islay-Jura faded away. In the mid 18th century, The
Heritable Jurisdictions Act The Heritable Jurisdictions (Scotland) Act 1746 (20 Geo. II c. 43) was an Act of Parliament passed in the aftermath of the Jacobite rising of 1745 abolishing judicial rights held by Scots heritors. These were a significant source of power, espec ...
abolished both, leaving only the shrieval unit, and without Campbell control. According to a local legend, in the early 1700s, the Campbells of Jura evicted a man who prophesied that the last Campbell to leave the island would be one-eyed with his belongings carried in a cart drawn by a lone white horse. In 1938 Charles Campbell, blind in one eye from a war injury, fell on hard times and led his white horse to the old pier for the last time.


Emigration

Beginning in the later 18th century, long before the notorious Highland Clearances of the following century, there were several waves of emigration from Jura. In 1767, fifty people left for
Canada Canada is a country in North America. Its ten provinces and three territories extend from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean and northward into the Arctic Ocean, covering over , making it the world's second-largest country by tot ...
, and from then the population fluctuated, rising to a peak of 1,312 in 1831, before gradually shrinking to its 20th century level of just a few hundred. Mercer notes that although relatively few forced clearances on Jura were recorded, the emigrations were due to factors such as hunger and spiralling rents.


Recent history

Census records show that Jura's population peaked at 1,312 in 1831, and that, in common with many areas of western Scotland, the island's population declined steadily over the ensuing decades. However, there has been a small increase since 2001. During the decade from 2001 to 2011
Scottish island This is a list of islands of Scotland, the mainland of which is part of the island of Great Britain. Also included are various other related tables and lists. The definition of an offshore island used in this list is "land that is surrounded by ...
populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702. Alongside the long-term decline in Jura's population has been a decline in the number of
Gaelic Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, and Ca ...
speakers. The 1881 census reported that 86.6% of 946 inhabitants spoke Gaelic. In 1961, for the first time less than half (46.9%) spoke the language and by 2001, this figure had dropped to 10.6%. In 1838, the old Campbell mansion at Ardfin was remodelled and extended by the architect
William Burn William Burn (20 December 1789 – 15 February 1870) was a Scottish architect. He received major commissions from the age of 20 until his death at 81. He built in many styles and was a pioneer of the Scottish Baronial Revival,often referred ...
for the laird Colin Campbell and renamed Jura House. During the first half of the 20th century, the Campbells gradually sold the island as a number of separate estates, beginning with the disposal in 1920 of the northern two-thirds of the island, from the
Paps of Jura The Paps of Jura ( gd, Sgurr na Cìche) are three mountains on the western side of the island of Jura, Scotland, Jura, in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. Their highest point is . They are steep-sided quartzite hills with distinctive conical sh ...
and the Corran River all the way to the Corryvreckan. The purchaser was the American-born English politician
Waldorf Astor Waldorf Astor, 2nd Viscount Astor, DL (19 May 1879 – 30 September 1952) was an American-born English politician and newspaper proprietor. He was a member of the Astor family. He was active in minor political roles. He was devoted to charitab ...
, whose wife
Nancy Astor Nancy Witcher Langhorne Astor, Viscountess Astor, (19 May 1879 – 2 May 1964) was an American-born British politician who was the first woman seated as a Member of Parliament (MP), serving from 1919 to 1945. Astor's first husband was America ...
had recently become the first female MP to sit in the
House of Commons The House of Commons is the name for the elected lower house of the bicameral parliaments of the United Kingdom and Canada. In both of these countries, the Commons holds much more legislative power than the nominally upper house of parliament. T ...
. The most southerly part of that acquisition, the Tarbert Estate, remains in the hands of the Astor family to this day, and in recent years the latest generation of Astors have restored the remote Glenbatrick Lodge, which stands on Jura's uninhabited west coast, on the shore of Loch Tarbert. The connection between the Campbell family of landowners and lairds and Jura ended in 1938 with the sale of Jura House and its surrounding land, Ardfin Estate.


George Orwell on Jura

In his later life, George Orwell moved to Barnhill, Jura, Barnhill, on Jura, living there intermittently from 1946. During that time he was critically ill with tuberculosis. Orwell left Jura in January 1949 to get treatment at a sanatorium in Gloucestershire and never returned to the island. He was known to the residents of Jura by his real name, Eric Blair. He completed ''
Nineteen Eighty-Four ''Nineteen Eighty-Four'' (also stylised as ''1984'') is a dystopian social science fiction novel and cautionary tale written by the English writer George Orwell. It was published on 8 June 1949 by Secker & Warburg as Orwell's ninth and fina ...
'' at Barnhill during 1947–48; he sent the final typescript to his publishers, Secker and Warburg, on 4 December 1948, and they published the book on 8 June 1949. Despite its isolation, Barnhill has in recent years become something of a shrine for his readers. During his time on Jura, Orwell and his adopted son, a niece and a nephew, nearly lost their lives at the Corryvreckan. He was attempting to navigate the Gulf when the outboard motor fell off the boat. The nephew rowed them to Eilean Mòr, where the boat overturned as they were disembarking; the group was rescued by the crew of a lobster boat. Still owned by the Fletcher family who had rented it to Orwell, the four bedroom Barnhill house is available for rent but is somewhat primitive for this era. A generator supplies electricity, the small refrigerator is gas-powered and heat is provided by a coal-fired Rayburn. The original look and feel of the house has been retained. "If you stay here, you're really treading in Orwell's footsteps. He would recognise the place instantly if he were to step through the door today," The Orwell Society, Orwell Society member Damaris Fletcher told ''The Guardian''.


Government and politics

In 1899, counties were formally created, on shrieval boundaries, by Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889, a Scottish Local Government Act, under which Jura became part of the Argyllshire, County of Argyll. In 1975 the counties were replaced by a two-tier system of Local government areas of Scotland 1973–96, regions and districts: Jura formed part of the Argyll and Bute district within the wider Strathclyde region, however the County of Argyll continues in use as a registration county. A Local Government etc. (Scotland) Act 1994, further re-organisation took place in 1995, and Jura now forms part of the unitary subdivisions of Scotland, council area of Argyll and Bute. The island also has a List of community council areas in Scotland, community council, which is responsible primarily for representing the views of the local community in dealings with other public bodies, although it can also undertake other activities such as fundraising for local projects and the running of community events. In the Scottish Parliament Jura forms part of the constituency of Argyll and Bute (Scottish Parliament constituency), Argyll and Bute, which elects one Member of the Scottish Parliament, Member of the Scottish Parliament (MSP) by the first past the post method of election. It is also one of eight constituencies in the Highlands and Islands (Scottish Parliament electoral region), Highlands and Islands Scottish Parliament constituencies and regions, electoral region, which elects seven additional member system (Scottish Parliament), additional members, in addition to the eight constituency MSPs, to produce a form of proportional representation for the region as a whole. The current MSP for Argyll and Bute is Jenni Minto of the Scottish National Party (SNP), who was elected in 2021, taking over from her party colleague Michael Russell (Scottish politician), Michael Russell. At British House of Commons, Westminster, Jura is represented as part of a constituency also called Argyll and Bute (UK Parliament constituency), Argyll and Bute, which is held by Brendan O'Hara, also of the SNP.


Modern ownership

There are now seven estates on Jura and a whisky distillery, all in separate ownership. *Ardfin Estate, Ardfin: situated at the southern tip of the island, between Feolin and
Craighouse Craighouse ( gd, Taigh na Creige) is the main settlement and capital of the Scottish Inner Hebridean island of Jura, in Argyll and Bute. In 1971 it had a population of 113. The village is situated on the sheltered east coast of the island at t ...
. For some 70 years from 1938, Ardfin belonged to the Riley-Smith family, brewers from Tadcaster in Yorkshire. In 2010 the estate was bought by Greg Coffey, an Australian hedge fund manager, and since 2011 its ownership has been with Ardfin Lodge Ltd of Jersey. The famous walled garden of Ardfin Estate, Jura House, which had previously been a noted horticultural asset and popular tourist attraction, was permanently closed to the public. Having also wound up the estate's farm, Greg Coffey then submitted proposals for the construction of a private 18-hole golf course on the estate. The original Jura House was extended and modernised, and the former farm buildings were converted into an elite luxury hotel for the use of visiting golfers. The course was completed in 2018 and opened in 2019. The hotel was due to open at Easter 2020 but the opening has been delayed. *Inver: lying North of Ardfin, on the west flanks of the Paps of Jura, and belonging to Sir William Lithgow, 2nd Baronet, Sir William Lithgow, Vice-Chairman of the
Glasgow Glasgow ( ; sco, Glesca or ; gd, Glaschu ) is the most populous city in Scotland and the fourth-most populous city in the United Kingdom, as well as being the 27th largest city by population in Europe. In 2020, it had an estimated popul ...
shipbuilding group Lithgows. *Jura Forest: also lying north of Ardfin, but on the east flanks of the Paps of Jura. Forest Estate belongs to the Vestey family,, which was headed until 2021 by Samuel Vestey, 3rd Baron Vestey, Samuel, 3rd Baron Vestey, chairman of the food and farming business Vestey Group Ltd, and a former Master of the Horse of the Royal Household. The owner is now his eldest son William Vestey, 4th Baron Vestey. *
Tarbert Tarbert ( gd, An Tairbeart) is a place name in Scotland and Ireland. Places named Tarbert are characterised by a narrow strip of land, or isthmus. This can be where two lochs nearly meet, or a causeway out to an island. Etymology All placenames ...
: North of the River Corran, Corran River, and stretching as far as Loch Tarbert, the Tarbert Estate has been in the hands of the Astor family for over 100 years (see 'Recent History'). The present Lord Astor is William Astor, 4th Viscount Astor, but the owner of the estate is listed as Altar Properties Ltd of the British Virgin Islands, whose beneficial owners are Viscount Astor's three children, Flora, Will and James. Former Prime Minister David Cameron has visited the estate on several occasions, as Lord Astor is the stepfather of his wife Samantha Cameron. *Ruantallain: immediately north of Loch Tarbert. Ruantallain had been a part of the Tarbert Estate, until its sale in 1984. It is owned by businessman Lindsay Bury, who is a former president of the influential wildlife charity Flora and Fauna International. *
Ardlussa Ardlussa is a hamlet and estate on The Long Road, just north of the Lussa River, overlooking Ardlussa Bay on the east coast of the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. Estate buildings line the road, and the area fe ...
: north of Ruantallain. In 1926 the Ardlussa and Barnhill Estates were acquired from the Astor family, Astors by Walter Hargreaves-Brown. The present owner of Ardlussa is Andrew Fletcher, great-grandson of Hargreaves-Brown. Fletcher lives at Ardlussa House with his family – they are the only estate owners to be permanently resident on Jura. *Barnhill, Jura, Barnhill: at the northernmost tip of Jura, overlooking the famous Gulf of Corryvreckan, Corryvreckan Whirlpool, George Orwell completed his novel ''
Nineteen Eighty-Four ''Nineteen Eighty-Four'' (also stylised as ''1984'') is a dystopian social science fiction novel and cautionary tale written by the English writer George Orwell. It was published on 8 June 1949 by Secker & Warburg as Orwell's ninth and fina ...
'' while living here. Barnhill is also owned by a member of the Fletcher family.
Jura distillery Jura distillery is a Scotch whisky distillery on the island of Jura in the Inner Hebrides off the West Coast of Scotland. The distillery is owned by Glasgow founded and based Whyte and Mackay, which in turn is owned by Philippines-based Emp ...
was founded in 1810 but was not used after 1900 and was dismantled. In 1963, two estate owners, Robin Fletcher of
Ardlussa Ardlussa is a hamlet and estate on The Long Road, just north of the Lussa River, overlooking Ardlussa Bay on the east coast of the island of Jura, in the council area of Argyll and Bute, Scotland. Estate buildings line the road, and the area fe ...
and Tony Riley-Smith of
Ardfin Ardfin is a country estate on the island of Jura, Inner Hebrides, Scotland. It is situated at the southern tip of the island, between Feolin and Craighouse. It includes Jura House which is a Category C listed building. The old house was extende ...
, took over the old property and built a modern distillery; they expanded it in 1978. In 1985, Invergordon distillery, Invergordon Distillers bought Mackinlays; later the two companies became part of Whyte & Mackay. There is also a relatively small area owned by Forestry and Land Scotland.


Economy

In an economic survey published in 2005 by the now-defunct Feolin Study Centre on Jura, the gross turnover of the island was estimated to be just over £3.2 million. This figure covered production and services only, and took no account of public expenditure by government or local authority. In financial terms, the
Jura distillery Jura distillery is a Scotch whisky distillery on the island of Jura in the Inner Hebrides off the West Coast of Scotland. The distillery is owned by Glasgow founded and based Whyte and Mackay, which in turn is owned by Philippines-based Emp ...
was the largest, and it was also the biggest individual employer, but the island's seven estates, taken together, employed the most full- and part-time staff. The distillery is owned by Whyte and Mackay, which in 2014 was taken over by Emperador Distillers, part of the Alliance Global Group Inc of the Philippines. The estates provide deer stalking and other field sports, together with forestry and a diminishing amount of agriculture. In 2015 a new distillery was established in Ardlussa at the north of the island, producing Lussa Gin, and in 2021 the island's first rum distillery opened in Craighouse producing Deer Island Rum. Both are small batch, locally owned distilleries. While tourism plays an important part in the island of economy [in 2005 over 20% of the island population was directly or indirectly employed in the tourist industry], its role was affected by the 2020-22 pandemic and remote working has encouraged more diverse work roles on the island including work in the digital and creative industries, despite a sub standard internet connection in many areas. In 2005 The Jura distillery, distillery, field sports and Jura House Gardens were listed as the main tourist attractions, although the gardens have since been closed to the public. A new gin distillery and visitor centre at Ardlussa and a new rum distillery in Craighouse are now in operation and contribute to a growing number of businesses engaged in small scale food and drink production on Jura. Meanwhile, the landscape and wildlife continues to be among the island's significant attractions. Conde Nast Traveller suggested that visitors would appreciate the many red deer, "and the distinctive Paps of Jura rise above miles of blanket bog and freshwater lochans" as well as the "remote bays and bothies" or the boat trips to the Corryvreckan whirlpool. The Rough Guides book adds that there is a hotel and some bed and breakfast accommodation on the island, which is "an ideal place to go for peace and quiet and some great walking". Several of the island's landowners continue a more exclusive tourist offer, based around field sports on several of the estates, and the luxury hotel and golf courses at Ardfin. With two townships on Jura at Keils and Knockrome & Ardfarnal, modern diverse crofting plays an important role on the island, and while it doesn't economically sustain any households on its own, it has been a significant contributor to the rise in population, young families and new housing on the island. In 2013 Jura Development trust, Development Trust secured financial support from the Big Lottery Fund and other sources to purchase the island's only shop, which re-opened as a community-owned business in 2014. The trust is also exploring renewable energy options. In 2018 a new business hub opened in Craighouse consisting of four units adjacent to the community petrol pumps. These currently house three local businesses - a photography gallery, Deer Island rum distillery, and a craft shop - as well as the local bus garage. Since 2019 the Highlands and Islands Transport Partnership (HITRANS) have had an office in Craighouse which houses the Scottish Islands Passport project.


Transport

During the summer the island has a direct passenger ferry link between Craighouse on Jura and Tayvalllich on the Scottish mainland. This service is run by the community. Throughout the year the MV Eilean Dhiura runs a regular service between Feolin on Jura and Port Askaig on Islay, with frequent sailings from 7.30am to 6.30pm Mon-Sat and a reduced Sunday schedule. This service is run by Argyll and Bute Council. From Islay there are ferry connections to Kennacraig, Colonsay and Oban (all operated by Caledonian MacBrayne) and a seasonal connection to Ballycastle, County Antrim, Ballycastle in Northern Ireland (from Port Ellen). Flights from Islay airport also offer connections to Glasgow Airport via Loganair and to Oban and Colonsay via Hebridean Air Services. Jura has only one road of any significance, the single-track A846 road, A846, which follows the southern and eastern coastline of the island from Feolin Ferry to
Craighouse Craighouse ( gd, Taigh na Creige) is the main settlement and capital of the Scottish Inner Hebridean island of Jura, in Argyll and Bute. In 1971 it had a population of 113. The village is situated on the sheltered east coast of the island at t ...
, a distance of around . The road then continues to Lagg, Tarbert, Ardlussa and beyond. A private track runs from the road end to the far north of the island (no vehicle access to the general public). A local bus service on the island is operated by Garelochhead Coaches. Five electric vehicle charging points are available on Jura. One at the whisky distillery, two in the Village Hall Carpark and two at the commercial units towards the pier, adjacent to the petrol / diesel pumps.


Wildlife and conservation

The island has a large population of red deer. Through browsing, the deer prevent the vegetation on the island from turning back to woodland, which is the natural climax community; indeed an alternative explanation of the island's name is that it derives from 'the great quantity of yew trees which grew in the island' in earlier times. Jura is also noted for its bird life, and especially for its birds of prey, raptors, including buzzards, golden eagles, white-tailed eagles and hen harriers. Since 2010 Jura has been designated by NatureScot as a Special Protection Area for golden eagles. Like many other parts of the Hebrides and western Scotland, the shores of Jura are frequented by grey seals, and the elusive European otter, otter is also relatively common here, as is the Vipera berus, adder, the UK's only venomous snake. The seas around Jura form part of the Inner Hebrides and the Minches Special Area of Conservation due to their importance for Harbour porpoises.


Literary accounts

In 1549, Donald Monro (Dean), Donald Monro, Dean of the Isles, wrote that the island was "ane ather fyne forrest for deire, inhabit and manurit at the coist syde", with "fresche water Loches, with meikell of profit" and an abundance of Atlantic salmon, salmon.Monro (1549) "Duray" No. 15 However, when the soldier and military historian Sir James Turner visited Jura in 1632, he was less impressed, reporting that '[it is] a horride ile and a habitation fit for deere and wild beastes'. But at the end of the 17th century, the writer and traveller Martin Martin went there and concluded that 'this isle is perhaps the wholesomest plot of ground either in the isles or continent of Scotland, as appears by the long life of the natives and their state of health'. Martin noted some extraordinary examples of longevity, including one Gillouir MacCrain, who was alleged to have kept one hundred and eighty Christmases in his own house. And he was impressed by the good health of the inhabitants: 'There is no epidemical disease that prevails here. Fevers are but seldom observed by the natives, and any kind of flux is rare. The gout and agues are not so much as known by them, neither are they liable to sciatica. Convulsions, vapours, palsies, surfeits, lethargies, megrims, consumptions, rickets, pains of the stomach or coughs, are not frequent here, and none of them are at any time observed to become mad.'


Culture

Like all inhabited Hebridean islands, Jura has its own indigenous tradition of Gaelic song and poetry. Since 1993 it has also been the home of the Jura Music Festival, which takes place annually in September. Jura is featured in the plot of the 2003 novel ''A Question of Blood'' by Ian Rankin, and the 2007 novel ''The Careful Use of Compliments'' by the Scottish writer Alexander McCall Smith, and is a setting for some of the narrative and action in Anne Michaels' 2008 novel ''The Winter Vault''. The island is the setting for the novel "Burning down George Orwell's house, "by Andrew Ervin. In music, Jura is mentioned in: "Crossing to Jura", a song by R. Kennedy and D. MacDonald, recorded in 1997 by JCB with Jerry Holland (musician), Jerry Holland on the album ''A Trip to Cape Breton''; "The Bens of Jura", a song by Capercaillie (band), Capercaillie; and "Isle of Jura", a song by Skyclad (band), Skyclad. The UK band Mekons recorded an album on the island in 2015 and called it 'Jura'. The 2010 album ''Poets and Lighthouses'' by Tuvan singer Albert Kuvezin of the band Yat Kha was recorded and produced by the British musician Giles Perring on Jura, with some of the performances being recorded in the (now largely felled) forest at Lagg. The album, which featured a photo of the Skervuile Lighthouse in the Sound of Jura as its cover, reached Number 1 in the European World Music Charts in January 2011.


Jura and The KLF

Jura is also known for an event of 23 August 1994, when Bill Drummond and Jimmy Cauty, formerly known as the music group The KLF, filmed themselves K Foundation Burn a Million Quid, burning £1 million in banknotes in the Ardfin boathouse on the south coast of the island.


Notes


Footnotes


References

* *


Further reading see

* Youngson, Peter (2001) Jura: Island of Deer. Birlinn Ltd. Edinburgh. .


External links

* Digitised historic ma
TIura Insula, The Yle of Iura one of the westerne Iles of Scotland
from th
Blaeu Atlas of Scotland
by Dutch cartographer Joan Blaeu published in 1654
Jura on Scotlandview
Isle of Jura Pictures and Comprehensive info
Orwell's life on Jura
{{Coord, 56, 5, N, 5, 45, W, region:GB_type:isle, display=title Jura, Scotland, Islands of Argyll and Bute Islands of the Inner Hebrides National scenic areas of Scotland Nineteen Eighty-Four Cleared places in the Inner Hebrides