Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (; 1 January 1867 – 6 July 1946) was a French
haute couture
''Haute couture'' (; ; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design that is constructed by hand from start-to-finish. Beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, Paris became th ...
fashion designer
Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture. The term implies a look defined by the fashio ...
. She founded the
Lanvin
Lanvin () is a French luxury fashion house based in Paris. Founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin, it is the oldest French fashion house still in operation. Since 2018, it has been a subsidiary of Shanghai-based Lanvin Group. Bruno Sialelli, a 31-year ...
fashion house and the
beauty and
perfume
Perfume (, ; french: parfum) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent ...
company
Lanvin Parfums.
Early life
Jeanne Lanvin was born in Paris on 1 January 1867, the eldest of 11 children of Constantin Lanvin and Sophie Deshayes. She became an apprentice
milliner
Hat-making or millinery is the design, manufacture and sale of hats and other headwear. A person engaged in this trade is called a milliner or hatter.
Historically, milliners, typically women shopkeepers, produced or imported an inventory of ...
at Madame Félix in Paris at the age of 16. She trained with Suzanne Talbot and
Caroline Montagne Roux before becoming a milliner on the
rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in 1889.
Career
In 1909, Lanvin joined the ''
Syndicat de la Couture'' (
fr), which marked her formal status as a
couturière. The clothing Lanvin made for her daughter began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people who requested copies for their own children. Soon, Lanvin was making dresses for their mothers, and some of the most famous names in Europe were included in the clientele of her new
boutique
A boutique () is a small shop that deals in fashionable clothing or accessories. The word is French for "shop", which derives ultimately from the Ancient Greek ἀποθήκη (''apothēkē'') "storehouse".
The term ''boutique'' and also ''de ...
on the
rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris.
From 1923, the Lanvin empire included a dye factory in
Nanterre. In the 1920s, Lanvin opened shops devoted to home décor,
menswear,
furs and
lingerie. Her most significant endeavour was the creation of Lanvin Parfums SA in 1924. Her signature
fragrance
An aroma compound, also known as an odorant, aroma, fragrance or flavoring, is a chemical compound that has a smell or odor. For an individual chemical or class of chemical compounds to impart a smell or fragrance, it must be sufficiently v ...
,
Arpège, introduced in 1927,
["Lanvin, Jeanne (1867–1946)." '' Dictionary of Women Worldwide: 25,000 Women Through the Ages'', edited by Anne Commire and Deborah Klezmer, vol. 1, Yorkin Publications, 2007, p. 1086. ''Gale eBooks''. Accessed 16 Sept. 2021.] was inspired by the sound of her daughter Marguerite practicing her scales on the piano. (''Arpège'' is French for ''
arpeggio
A broken chord is a chord broken into a sequence of notes. A broken chord may repeat some of the notes from the chord and span one or more octaves.
An arpeggio () is a type of broken chord, in which the notes that compose a chord are played ...
''.)
In 1922, Lanvin collaborated with celebrated French designer
Armand-Albert Rateau in redesigning her apartment, her homes and her businesses.
The living room, boudoir and bathroom of the apartment was reassembled in 1985 in the
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. For this domicile, Rateau designed some remarkable 1920–22 furniture in bronze.
[Mel Byars, 2004, p. 614.]
The pair developed a friendship. Rateau came aboard Lanvin's empire as manager of Lanvin-Sport, designing the Lanvin spherical ''La Boule'' perfume ''flacon'' for Arpège, originally produced by the Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres. To this day, Arpège perfume containers are imprinted with
Paul Iribe
Paul Iribe (8 June 1883 – 21 September 1935) was a French illustrator and designer in the decorative arts. He worked in Hollywood during the 1920s and was Coco Chanel's lover from 1931 to his death.
Early life and career
Joseph Paul Iribe was b ...
's gold image (rendered in 1907) of Lanvin and her daughter Marguerite. Rateau also managed Lanvin-Décoration, an interior-design department established in 1920, in the main store on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
Personal life, death and legacy
In 1895, Lanvin married Count Emilio di Pietro, an Italian nobleman. Two years later she gave birth to a daughter, Marguerite (also known as Marie-Blanche) (1897–1958). The couple's only child, Marguerite di Pietro became an opera singer. She married the Count Jean de Polignac (1888–1943). On the death of her mother, she became the director of the Lanvin fashion house.
[
Lanvin and di Pietro divorced in 1903. Lanvin married Xavier Melet in 1907, a journalist at the newspaper ''Les Temps'' and later the French ]consul
Consul (abbrev. ''cos.''; Latin plural ''consules'') was the title of one of the two chief magistrates of the Roman Republic, and subsequently also an important title under the Roman Empire. The title was used in other European city-states throu ...
in Manchester
Manchester () is a city in Greater Manchester, England. It had a population of 552,000 in 2021. It is bordered by the Cheshire Plain to the south, the Pennines to the north and east, and the neighbouring city of Salford to the west. The ...
, England.[
Lanvin died on 6 July 1946. Her original office is preserved in Lanvin's corporate offices at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas in Paris.]
Awards
* Chevalier de l'Ordre de la Légion d'Honneur, to Jeanne Lanvin, 1926
* Officier de l'Ordre de la Légion d'Honneur, to Jeanne Lanvin, 1938
See also
* Lanvin (clothing) for more information on the fashion house
* Arpège
Collection at the
Metropolitan Museum of Art
The Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York City, colloquially "the Met", is the largest art museum in the Americas. Its permanent collection contains over two million works, divided among 17 curatorial departments. The main building at 1000 ...
, New York
File:"Roseraie" MET 64.126.7a-b front CP3.jpg, "Roseraie", evening dress (silk), spring/summer 1923
File:"Jolibois" MET 86.71.1 CP3.jpg, "Jolibois", evening dress (silk), fall/winter 1922–23
File:"Ko.I.Noor" MET C.I.60.19ab F.jpg, Ko.I.Noor, evening ensemble (silk and metal), spring/summer 1927
File:"Phèdre" MET 84.30 front CP3.jpg, "Phèdre", evening dress (silk and metal), fall/winter 1933
File:"Fusée" MET DT10674.jpg, "Fusée", evening dress (silk), 1938
File:"Cyclone" MET CI.46.4.18ab.jpg, "Cyclone", evening dress (silk and spangles), 1939
References
Sources
* Colette, Emilio Terry, et al. (1965). ''Homage à Marie-Blanche, Comtesse Jean de Polignac'', Monaco.
* "Jeanne Lanvin" and "Claude Montana" in Morgan, Ann (1984). ''Contemporary Designers'', New York: Macmillan. ,
* "Castillo", "Jules-François Crahay", and "Jean Gaumont-Lanvin" in Remaury, Bruno, director (1994). ''Dictionnaire de la Mode au XXe Siècle'', Paris: Éditions du Regard. ,
* Barillé, Elisabeth (1997). ''Lanvin'', Paris: Assouline. , )
* Picon, Jérôme (2002). ''Jeanne Lanvin'', Paris: Flammarion. ,
* "Armand Albert Rateau" and "Jeanne Lanvin" in Byars, Mel (2004). ''The Design Encyclopedia'', New York: The Museum of Modern Art. ,
* Menkes, Suzy (24 May 2005). "At Lanvin, a master of improvisation", ''International Herald Tribune''.
External links
Lanvin home page
*
Biography of Lanvin of Toutenparfum.com
*
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Lanvin, Jeanne
French fashion designers
Fashion designers from Paris
French businesspeople in fashion
20th-century French businesswomen
1867 births
1946 deaths
Chevaliers of the Légion d'honneur
Officiers of the Légion d'honneur
Children's clothing designers
French women fashion designers