Julien's Restorator (c. 1793–1823) was a
restaurant in
Boston
Boston (), officially the City of Boston, is the state capital and most populous city of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, as well as the cultural and financial center of the New England region of the United States. It is the 24th- mo ...
,
Massachusetts
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, established by French-born Jean Baptiste Gilbert Payplat dis Julien.
[Andrew F. Smith, ed. The Oxford companion to American food and drink. Oxford University Press US, 2007; p.550] It was one of the first restaurants in Boston; previous public eating-rooms were in "taverns or boarding houses."
History
Julien moved to the United States "as cook to the celebrated Dubuque, who was a refugee from the French Revolution."
Prior to 1793, Julien had served as "steward to the Hon. M. LeTombe, consul of the French Republic."
[Restorator. American Apollo (Boston), July 19, 1793] Other friends and associates included
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (; 1 April 1755, Belley, Ain – 2 February 1826, Paris) was a French lawyer and politician, who, as the author of ''The Physiology of Taste'' (''Physiologie du Goût''), gained fame as an epicure and gastronome: ...
.
The Restorator opened in July 1793: "a resort where the infirm in health, the convalescent, and those whose attention to studious business occasions a lassitude of nature; can obtain the most suitable nourishment. ... Spirits are not to be used; ... and all gaming is disallowed. ... Excellent wines and cordials, good soups and broths, pastry in all its delicious variety, alamode beef, bacon, poultry, and generally, all other refreshing viands, will be kept in due preparation: and a bill of fare will be kept ... from which each visitor may command whatever may best suit his appetite."
The business first stood on
Congress Street "opposite the Quaker's meeting house" in the
Financial District
A financial district is usually a central area in a city where financial services firms such as banks, insurance companies and other related finance corporations have their head offices. In major cities, financial districts are often home to s ...
, then in 1794 settled on
Milk Street (corner of Congress St.) in "the house lately occupied by Mr. Thomas Clements."
[Boston Restorator. American Apollo (Boston), Aug. 21, 1794] The building had been erected in 1670-1671 by Henry Bridgham. Julien's was "agreeably situated to receive the fresh air -- which is so necessary for the convalescent and strangers."
The establishment was referred to as "Julien's," the "Boston Restorator," "Mr. Julien's French Restorator," "Julien's Restorator," or "The Restorator."
According to food historians Julien's "public eating house ... was famous for his soups and stews, and he was nicknamed the Prince of Soups''.' He is credited with introducing to America the
julienne soup, a composition of vegetables in long, narrow strips. Julien specialized in making
turtle soup
Turtle soup, also known as Terrapin soup, is a soup or stew made from the meat of turtles. Differing versions of the soup exist in some cultures and are viewed as a delicacy.
Versions China
In China, and in several countries in Southeast A ...
."
Julien's advertisements for the soup emphasized medical justifications: "Turtle soup. Much has been said on its efficacy in purifying the blood by
Tissot
Tissot SA () is a Swiss watchmaker. The company was founded in Le Locle, Switzerland by Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son, Charles-Émile Tissot, in 1853. After several mergers and name changes, the group which Tissot SA belonged to was renam ...
in his celebrated dissertation on the subject, and by
Buffon, the great naturalist, who discovered the beneficial nature of amphibious animals. Those who use this soup must not expect that it be made strong with spice, but from ingredients clear and light." "Many celebrated physicians have recommended it. ... As the first establishment of a restorator in Paris was not for
Epicurians -- but for the benefit of those invalids who stood in need of light substance, nourishing and strengthening to their stomacks, it was recommended for the purpose by the Academy in Paris. Citizens of the above description are invited to call and try the virtue of Julien's turtle soup."
[Boston Restorator: Turtle Soup. Boston Price-Current; Date: 06-29-1797] Julien stressed the healthiness of other items available to his patrons, such as "Naples cordials, syrup of vinegar,
syrup of orgeat, and white Bourdeaux wine, all of which are calculated for strengthening and invigorating the system of nature during the heat of summer."
The particulars of Julien's style of business and its inspiration to competitors resonated culturally, for example in a literary spoof in the ''New England Palladium'' newspaper, 1801:
In imitation of Mr. Julien, I mean to open a house of public entertainment, where every intellectual epicure may be gratified with his favourite dish. The moralist shall be feasted with ethics, the philologist with criticism, and the weak and delicate palates of beaus and ladies shall be indulged with remarks on dress and fashion. After the sumptuous repasts afforded by the ''Tatler
''Tatler'' is a British magazine published by Condé Nast Publications focusing on fashion and lifestyle, as well as coverage of high society and politics. It is targeted towards the British upper-middle class and upper class, and those interes ...
'', ''Spectator'', ''Guardian'', ''Rambler'', &c. every succeeding candidate for public favour, in this province, must appear to disadvantage; nor have I the presumption to imagine, that I can produce any thing which can vie, in point of excellence, with the choice dishes of those able caterers. But as the situation and habits of the new world differ considerably from those of the old, if I should be so fortunate as to hit the taste of my customers, I shall have no mean opinion of my cookery. ...
Events that took place at the Restorator included a
July 4th
Events Pre-1600
*362 BC – Battle of Mantinea: The Thebans, led by Epaminondas, defeated the Spartans.
* 414 – Emperor Theodosius II, age 13, yields power to his older sister Aelia Pulcheria, who reigned as regent and proclaimed ...
dinner of the "officers of the first regiment" in 1798; and anniversary celebrations of the Boston Franklin Typographical Association, 1803–1805.
Julien died in 1805, and was buried in the
Central Burying Ground. His wife Hannah Julien continued at the Restorator through at least 1813. Around 1816 it was "continued under the management of a countryman of Mr. Julien," Frederick Rouillard, until 1823. The building was demolished in 1824, and in 1825 Edward H. Robbins built on the old site of the Restorator a multi-functional assembly space,
Julien Hall, named in honor of the now-defunct restaurant.
[Caleb Snow. History of Boston, 3rd ed. 1838.]
References
Further reading
* Arthur W. Brayley. "An originator of soups." Boston Cooking School Magazine. v.10, no.9, April 1906
Google books* Samuel Adams Drake. Old Boston taverns and tavern clubs, illus. ed. Boston: W. A. Butterfield, 1917
Google books
External links
Boston Athenaeum 1796 drawing by Samuel Dearborn of Milk St. and vicinity, depicting Julien's and other buildings
{{coord, 42, 21, 23.5, N, 71, 3, 22.35, W, type:landmark_region:US-MA, display=title
Buildings and structures completed in 1671
Demolished buildings and structures in Boston
1793 establishments in Massachusetts
1823 disestablishments in Massachusetts
18th century in Boston
19th century in Boston
Restaurants in Boston
Economic history of Boston
Defunct restaurants in Boston
Financial District, Boston
Healthcare in Boston
Restaurants established in 1793
Buildings and structures demolished in 1824