José Antonio Delgado
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José Antonio Delgado Sucre (13 May 1965 – 22 July 2006) was the first Venezuelan mountaineer to reach the summit of five
eight-thousander The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no ...
s and one of the most experienced climbers in Latin America. Known as ''el indio'' ("The Indian", for his strength), Delgado led the first Venezuelan Everest expedition in 2001. On May 23 of that year, he and Marcus Tobía were the only members of the expedition to summit Everest. He held several records in mountaineering, such as the first paragliding flight from Pico Humboldt, Pico Bolívar, and
Roraima Roraima (, ) is one of the 26 states of Brazil. Located in the country's North Region, it is the northernmost and most geographically and logistically isolated state in Brazil. It is bordered by the state of Pará to the southeast, Amazonas ...
. Delgado also made the fastest summit for a Venezuelan to the Aconcagua (from the ''Puente del Inca'' in 34 hours) and Huascarán (from the base in 14 hours).


Biography

Jose Antonio Delgado Sucre was born in
Caracas Caracas (, ), officially Santiago de León de Caracas, abbreviated as CCS, is the capital and largest city of Venezuela, and the center of the Metropolitan Region of Caracas (or Greater Caracas). Caracas is located along the Guaire River in the ...
, Venezuela. He studied mechanical engineering at the Universidad Simón Bolívar and married Frida Ayala with whom he had two children.


Death and legacy

Delgado was the leader of the Venezuelan Nanga Parbat expedition. He and fellow climber Edgar Guariguata flew out to Pakistan in June 2006. Due to illness Guariguata remained at base camp while Delgado went on. After he reached the summit of the Nanga Parbat on July 11, a snow storm surprised him on his descent. Delgado managed to reach camp four. After being without food or water for two days he attempted to make it to camp three. No further communications were received by base camp, so the Pakistani authorities were alerted. A group of six Pakistani mountaineers, consisting of Qurban Muhammad (Shimshal), Ghulam Rasool, Muhammad, Muhammad Ibrahim, Ghulam Muhammad, and Muhammad Ali, climbed the mountain despite the rough weather. On July 22, they found Delgado's body at an altitude of 7100m between camp three and four in the open near his tent. During the expedition to Nanga Parbat, he was the subject of a pilot for a television series about mountaineering. Explorart Films, the production company, later developed the project into a feature documentary film, released in South America in January 2008. The film follows Jose Antonio's climbing career and includes footage of several of his expeditions including the Nanga Parbat climb and the rescue attempts that followed the accident. Jose Antonio and his wife Frida were co-producers of the film.


Awards

He was awarded the ''Orden al Mérito Deportivo'' and the ''Orden Vicente Emilio Sojo'' in 2001 by the Venezuelan government. He was a founding member of the ''Proyecto Cumbre'' (1997) and the head of the ''Centro Excursionista Loyola'' from 1982 to 1983.Proyecto Cumbre
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Eight-thousanders

*
Cho Oyu __NOTOC__ Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the ''Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur ...
, 8153 m, Nepal-China, 1994 (first Venezuelan) * Shishapangma 8008 m, China, 1998 (first Venezuelan) * Gasherbrum II, 8035 m, Pakistan-China, 2000 (first Venezuelan) * Everest, 8848 m, Nepal-China, 2001 * Nanga Parbat, 8125 m, Pakistan, 2006 (first Venezuelan)


Mountain Summits

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Pico Humboldt Pico Humboldt is Venezuela's second highest peak, at 4,925 metres above sea level. It is located in the Sierra Nevada de Merida, in the Venezuelan Andes of (Mérida State). The peak, its sister peak Pico Bonpland, and the surrounding páramos ar ...
, 4942 m, Venezuela, 1982 *
Pico Bolívar Pico Bolívar is the highest mountain in Venezuela, at 4,978 metres (16,332 ft).Pérez et al (Sep. 2005)"Alturas del Pico Bolívar y otras cimas andinas venezolanas a partir de observaciones Gps."INCI v.30, n.4, Caracas sep. 2005. Retrieved ...
, 5007 m, Venezuela, 1983 * Chopicalqui, 6320 m, Peru, 1985 * Artesonraju, 6010 m, Peru, 1985 *
Ritacuba Blanco Ritacuba Blanco is the highest peak of Cordillera Oriental, in the Andes Mountains of Colombia. It's also named Ritak'uwa, an ancient name from the U'wa indigenous people that live in the lowlands of the National Park Sierra Nevada del Cocuy ...
, 5300 m, Colombia, 1986 * Artesonraju, 6010 m, Peru, 1986 *
Ranrapalca Ranrapalca (possibly from Quechua ''ranra'' stony, ''pallqa'' bifurcation, division into two parts) is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca range in the Andes of Peru. It has an elevation of 6,162 m (20,217 ft). It is located in the regi ...
, 6162 m, Peru, 1986 * Huascarán Sur, 6768 m, Peru, 1986 * Ritacuba Negro, 5200 m, Colombia, 1987 *
Huayna Potosí Huayna Potosí is a mountain in Bolivia, located near El Alto and about 25 km north of La Paz in the Cordillera Real. Huayna Potosí is the closest high mountain to La Paz. Surrounded by high mountains, it is roughly 15 miles due ...
Sur, 6050 m, Bolivia, 1987 *
Illimani Illimani (Aymara) is the highest mountain in the Cordillera Real (part of the Cordillera Oriental, a subrange of the Andes) of western Bolivia. It lies near the cities of El Alto and La Paz at the eastern edge of the Altiplano. It is the secon ...
Central, 6438 m, Bolivia, 1987 * The Maroon Bells, USA, 1990 ** Maroon Peak 4316 m ** North Maroon Peak 4272 m * Long Peak, 4345 m, USA, 1990 * Pikes Peak, 4302 m, USA, 1990 * Popocatepetl, 5452 m, Mexico, 1991 * Iztaccíhuatl, 5286 m, Mexico, 1991 * Pico de Orizaba Citlaltépetl, 5636 m, Mexico, 1991 *
Marmolejo Volcán Marmolejo is a high Pleistocene stratovolcano in the Andes on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is located NNE of the active San José volcano, and is the southernmost -plus peak in the world. The Argentine portion is withi ...
, 6100 m, Chile-Argentina, 1991 *
Volcán San Pedro Volcán San Pedro (or ''Las Yeguas'') is a stratovolcano on the shores of Lago de Atitlán, in the Sololá Department of southern Guatemala. At its base is the village of San Pedro La Laguna. __NOTOC__ Notes References External links S ...
, 5800 m, Chile-Argentina, 1991 * Aconcagua, 7021 m, Argentina, 1991 * Cotopaxi, 6005 m, Ecuador, 1991 * Chimborazo, 6310 m, Ecuador, 1991 * Cóncavo, 5200 m, Colombia, 1992 * Pan de Azúcar, 5180 m, Colombia, 1992 *
Illampu Illampu is the fourth highest mountain in Bolivia. It is located in the northern section of the Cordillera Real, part of the Andes, east of Lake Titicaca. It lies just north of the slightly higher Janq'u Uma, near the town of Sorata. Laguna Gla ...
, 6362 m, Bolivia, 1992 * Ama Dablam, 6812 m, Nepal, 1993 * Adam's Peak, 2233 m, Sri Lanka, 1994 * Stock Kangri, 6100, India, 1994 * Pisco, 5300 m, Peru, 1996 * Huascarán Norte, 6654 m, Peru, 1996 * Cayambe, 5840 m, Ecuador, 1997 * Denali-McKinley, 6229 m, Alaska-USA, 1998 *
Muztagh Ata Muztagh Ata or Muztagata (, Музтағ Ата, literally "ice-mountain-father"; ; formerly known as Mount Tagharma or Taghalma and Wi-tagh) is the second highest (7546 metres) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plate ...
, 7546 m, China, 1999 *
Breithorn The Breithorn (German for literally "broad horn"; 13,661 ft. or 4,164 m) is a mountain range of the Pennine Alps with its highest peak of the same name (but also called ''Breithorn (Western Summit)''), located on the border between Switzerland a ...
, 4165 m, Switzerland-Italy, 1999 * Ojos del Salado, 6908 m, Chile-Argentina, 2001 * Aconcagua, 6961 m, Argentina, 2001 * Everest, 8848 m, Nepal, 2001 *
Monte Bianco Mont Blanc (french: Mont Blanc ; it, Monte Bianco , both meaning "white mountain") is the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, rising above sea level. It is the second-most prominent mountain in Europe, after Mount Elbrus, and it ...
, 4810 m, Italy-France, 2001 * Tsacra Chico Norte, 5513 m, Peru, 2002 * Chapaev North (near Chapaev Peak), 6100 m, Kazakhstan, 2004 * Khan Tengri, 7010 m, Kazakhstan, 2005 * Nanga Parbat 8125 m, Pakistan, 2006


References


External links


The Venezuelan Nanga Parbat expedition website
*http://www.ascenso.org.ve/
Proyecto Cumbre
*http://www.explorersweb.com/news.php?id=15130 *https://web.archive.org/web/20170707055836/http://nangaparbat2006.explorart.com/ *https://web.archive.org/web/20140517162639/http://masalladelacumbre.com/ {{DEFAULTSORT:Delgado, Jose Antonio 1965 births 2006 deaths People from Caracas Venezuelan mountain climbers Summiters of Mount Everest Mountaineering deaths Sport deaths in Pakistan Simón Bolívar University (Venezuela) alumni