John Cowan (photographer)
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John Anthony Cowan (22 April 1929 – 26 September 1979)John Cowan
National Portrait Gallery – Person – John Cowan
accessdate: 27/08/2014
was a British
fashion photographer Fashion photography is a genre of photography which is devoted to displaying clothing and other fashion items, sometimes haute couture. It typically consists of a fashion photographer taking a picture of a dressed model in a photographic studio ...
known for his dynamic photographic style when picturing the fashion icons of 1960s London.


Early life

John Anthony Cowan was born on 22 April 1929 at
Gillingham, Kent Gillingham ( ) is a large town in the unitary authority area of Medway in the ceremonial county of Kent, England. The town forms a conurbation with neighbouring towns Chatham, Rochester, Strood and Rainham. It is also the largest town in the ...
, the only child of Irving Cowan and his wife, Elizabeth Edith Cowan (née Cobley).oxforddnb.com
Oxford DNB article: Cowan, John Anthony
accessdate: 27 August 2014


Career

Cowan was known for his dynamic photographic style which reflected the energetic atmosphere of 1960s
Swinging London The Swinging Sixties was a youth-driven cultural revolution that took place in the United Kingdom during the mid-to-late 1960s, emphasising modernity and fun-loving hedonism, with Swinging London as its centre. It saw a flourishing in art, mus ...
. The
Victoria and Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (often abbreviated as the V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.27 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and nam ...
say, "John Cowan ... epitomised the playful, graphically dynamic style of commercial photography practised in London during the period. His partnership with model and photographer Jill Kennington sparked an exciting period of high-octane image-making for numerous magazines."V&A Search the Collections
What happens when a photographer plans to shoot swimsuits outdoors and it rains?, 1963 , Cowan, John , V&A Search the Collections
accessdate: 28 August 2014
Among the magazines and newspapers Cowan worked for were ''
Vogue Vogue may refer to: Business * ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine ** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine ** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine ** ''Vogue Australia'', an Australian fashion magazine ** ''Vogue China'', ...
'', ''
Queen Queen or QUEEN may refer to: Monarchy * Queen regnant, a female monarch of a Kingdom ** List of queens regnant * Queen consort, the wife of a reigning king * Queen dowager, the widow of a king * Queen mother, a queen dowager who is the mother ...
'', ''
Harper's Bazaar ''Harper's Bazaar'' is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. It was first published in New York City on November 2, 1867, as the weekly ''Harper's Bazar''. ''Harper's Bazaar'' is published by Hearst and considers itself to be the st ...
'', ''
Elle ''Elle'' (stylized ''ELLE'') is a worldwide women's magazine of French origin that offers a mix of fashion and beauty content, together with culture, society and lifestyle. The title means "she" or "her" in French. ''Elle'' is considered the w ...
'', ''
The Observer ''The Observer'' is a British newspaper published on Sundays. It is a sister paper to ''The Guardian'' and ''The Guardian Weekly'', whose parent company Guardian Media Group Limited acquired it in 1993. First published in 1791, it is the w ...
'', the ''
Sunday Times ''The Sunday Times'' is a British newspaper whose circulation makes it the largest in Britain's quality press market category. It was founded in 1821 as ''The New Observer''. It is published by Times Newspapers Ltd, a subsidiary of News UK, whi ...
'', the ''
Daily Express The ''Daily Express'' is a national daily United Kingdom middle-market newspaper printed in tabloid format. Published in London, it is the flagship of Express Newspapers, owned by publisher Reach plc. It was first published as a broadsheet i ...
'' and the ''
Sunday Express The ''Daily Express'' is a national daily United Kingdom middle-market newspaper printed in tabloid format. Published in London, it is the flagship of Express Newspapers, owned by publisher Reach plc. It was first published as a broadsheet i ...
'', the ''
Daily Mail The ''Daily Mail'' is a British daily middle-market tabloid newspaper and news websitePeter Wilb"Paul Dacre of the Daily Mail: The man who hates liberal Britain", ''New Statesman'', 19 December 2013 (online version: 2 January 2014) publish ...
'', and the ''
Daily Mirror The ''Daily Mirror'' is a British national daily tabloid. Founded in 1903, it is owned by parent company Reach plc. From 1985 to 1987, and from 1997 to 2002, the title on its masthead was simply ''The Mirror''. It had an average daily print ...
''. Cowan's London studio was one of the main sets for
Michelangelo Antonioni Michelangelo Antonioni (, ; 29 September 1912 – 30 July 2007) was an Italian filmmaker. He is best known for directing his "trilogy on modernity and its discontents"—''L'Avventura'' (1960), ''La Notte'' (1961), and ''L'Eclisse'' (1962 ...
's 1966 film ''
Blow-Up ''Blowup'' (sometimes styled as ''Blow-up'' or ''Blow Up'') is a 1966 mystery drama thriller film directed by Michelangelo Antonioni and produced by Carlo Ponti. It was Antonioni's first entirely English-language film, and stars David Hemmings ...
'' and Cowan was one of the photographers, with
David Bailey David Royston Bailey (born 2 January 1938) is an English photographer and director, most widely known for his fashion photography and portraiture, and role in shaping the image of the Swinging Sixties. Early life David Bailey was born at Wh ...
, Terence Donovan, Brian Duffy and others, who were used to create the composite character of Thomas in the film. Cowan's energy and unconventional approach inspired the memorable scene in ''Blow-Up'' where David Hemmings as Thomas kneels over Veruschka as he photographs her. In a 2011 interview for ''Vanity Fair'', Kennington commented "The David Hemmings–and-Veruschka scene for ''Blow-Up'' was pure Cowan. Antonioni must have seen him working—I never saw anyone else take pictures quite that way. The shooting on the floor downwards, completely fluid, unhindered by tripods, etc., was typical Cowan."Photos: Antonioni's Blow-Up and Swinging 1960s London.
Philippe Garner & Jill Kennington, ''Vanity Fair'', 15 April 2011. Retrieved 3 September 2014.
Kennington recalled the physical nature of her shoots with Cowan, saying "he clambered anywhere, including onto his Land Rover roof, to achieve a great angle. Luckily, I was born a mountain goat, and many photographic adventures involved jumping or hanging off buildings." According to the ''
Daily Telegraph Daily or The Daily may refer to: Journalism * Daily newspaper, newspaper issued on five to seven day of most weeks * ''The Daily'' (podcast), a podcast by ''The New York Times'' * ''The Daily'' (News Corporation), a defunct US-based iPad new ...
'', the Hemmings–and-Veruschka scene "came to symbolise the film".


Personal life

Cowan was married twice. His first wife was a nurse, Joyce Gordon (b. 1929). They married in June 1950 at Bearstead, Kent, and their daughter Nicola was born on 13 July 1954. They divorced in 1954. On 19 September 1959, Cowan married his second wife, Sydney Smith (b. 1934), and they separated in February 1963 and divorced on 4 July 1967. They had three daughters: Carolyn Cowan (born 7 February 1960, therapist, fashion designer and photographer), Atalanta (born 20 June 1962, who married Philip Knatchbull, son of John, Baron Brabourne, and his wife Patricia, Countess Mountbatten of Burma) and Justine (born 31 July 1963). On 26 September 1979, he died of cancer in
East Hagbourne East Hagbourne is a village and civil parish about south of Didcot and south of Oxford. It was part of Berkshire until the 1974 boundary changes transferred it to Oxfordshire. The 2011 Census recorded the parish's population as 1,882. Mano ...
, Oxfordshire.


Books

* *


Further reading

* Garner, Philippe. (1999) ''John Cowan: Through the Light Barrier.'' Schirmer/Mosel.


Selected exhibitions and shows

* ‘Swinging Sixties London: Photography in the Capital of Cool Past’ an exhibition at FOAM Museum in
Amsterdam Amsterdam ( , , , lit. ''The Dam on the River Amstel'') is the Capital of the Netherlands, capital and Municipalities of the Netherlands, most populous city of the Netherlands, with The Hague being the seat of government. It has a population ...
(2015). * ‘Mary Quant’ an exhibition at The V & A Museum in
London London is the capital and largest city of England and the United Kingdom, with a population of just under 9 million. It stands on the River Thames in south-east England at the head of a estuary down to the North Sea, and has been a majo ...
(2019, 2020). * ‘John Cowan’ photographs are part of an ongoing collection at the National Portrait Gallery in
London London is the capital and largest city of England and the United Kingdom, with a population of just under 9 million. It stands on the River Thames in south-east England at the head of a estuary down to the North Sea, and has been a majo ...
.


References


External links


Photographs by John Cowan
at Corbis {{DEFAULTSORT:Cowan, John Anthony 20th-century British photographers 1929 births 1979 deaths People from Gillingham, Kent Photographers from Kent