Jim Bridwell

Jim Bridwell (July 29, 1944 – February 16, 2018) was an American rock climber and mountaineer, active since 1965, especially in Yosemite Valley, but also in Patagonia and Alaska. He was noted for pushing the standards of both free climbing and big-wall climbing, and later alpine climbing. He wrote numerous articles on climbing for leading sport publications. He was an apprentice to Royal Robbins and Warren Harding (climber). He was the unofficial leader of the Stonemasters.

Bridwell is credited with over 100 First Ascents in Yosemite Valley, in addition to conducting the first one-day ascent of The Nose of El Capitan on May 26, 1975 with John Long and Billy Westbay. He founded Yosemite National Park's Search and Rescue Team (YOSAR), and spearheaded many rescues that became textbook for search-and-rescue operations. He was a leading force in the changing techniques of climbing and an innovator/inventor of widely used and copied climbing gear, including copperheads and bird beaks.

Bridwell resided in Palm Desert, California, until his death on February 16, 2018 from complications of hepatitis C, which he had acquired while receiving a tattoo in Borneo during the 1980s.

First ascents and notable ascents

* 1965 ''Entrance Exam'' (II 5.9), Arch Rock, Yosemite, California with Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks and Larry MarshikRoper (1971).
* 1966 ''Braille Book'' (III 5.8), Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, California, with Chris Fredericks, Joe Faint and Brian Berry.
* 1967 ''East Face'' (VI 5.9 A4), Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, California, with Chris Fredericks
* 1967 ''South Central'' (V 5.10a A2), Washington Column, Yosemite, California, with Joe Faint
* 1969 ''Triple Direct'' (VI 5.9 A2), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, with Kim SchmitzReid (1993), p. 202.
* 1971 ''Aquarian Wall'' (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, with Kim SchmitzReid (1993), p. 201.
* 1971 ''New Dimensions'' (5.11 A1), Arch Rock, Yosemite, California, with Mark Klemens
* 1971 ''Nabisco Wall'', The Cookie, Yosemite, California,
* 1970 ''Vain Hope'' (V 5.7 A3), Ribbon Falls, Yosemite, California with Royal Robbins and Kim Schmitz
* 1973 ''Central Pillar of Frenzy'', Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, California, with Roger Breedlove and Ed Barry
* 1974 ''Freestone'', Geek Towers, Yosemite Falls, Yosemite, California
* 1975 ''Wailing Wall'', Tuolumne Meadows, California with Dale Bard and Rick Accomozo
*1975 The Nose (5.13+ or 5.8 C2), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, with Billy Westbay, and John Long, first one-day ascent in 17:45
* 1975 ''Pacific Ocean Wall'' (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California, with Bill Westbay, Jay Fiske and Fred East
* 1976 ''Gold Ribbon'' (VI 5.10 A3), Ribbon Falls, Yosemite, California with Mike Graham
* 1977 ''Bushido'' (VI 5.10 A4), Half Dome, Yosemite, California with Dale BardReid (1993), p. 205.
* 1978 ''Sea of Dreams'' (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Dale Bard and Dave Diegelman
* 1978 ''Zenith'' (VI 5.9 A4), Half Dome, Yosemite, California with Kim Schmitz
* 1979 ''Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre'', Patagonia, Argentina with Steven Brewer (first alpine-style ascent of the peak)
* 1979 ''Northwest Face'', "The Ship Prow" Kichatna Spire, Alaska Range with Andy Embick
* 1981 ''Zenyatta Mondatta'' (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Peter Mayfield and Charlie RowReid (1993).
* 1981 ''Dance of the Woo Li Masters'', East Face of The Moose's Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with Mugs Stump
* 1982 ''South Face'', "Sapphire Bullets of Pure Love" Pumori, Nepal with Jan Reynolds and Ned Gillette
* 1987 ''The Big Chill'', Half Dome, Yosemite, California with Peter Mayfield, Sean Plunkett and Steve Bosque
* 1989 ''Shadows'' (VI 5.10 A5), Half Dome, Yosemite, California with Charles Row, Cito Kirkpatrick, William Westbay
* 1991 ''North Face'' (repeat) The Eiger, Bernese Alps, Switzerland
* 1997 ''Wyoming Sheep Ranch'' (VI 5.9 A5), (repeat) El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Giovanni Groaz
* 1998 ''Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys'' (VI 5.9 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Boulos Ayad and Tyson Hausoeffer
* 1998 ''Plastic Surgery Disaster'' (VI 5.8 A5), (repeat) El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Mark Bowling and Giovanni Groaz
* 1999 ''The Useless Emotion'' (VII 5.9 WI4 A4), The Bear's Tooth, Ruth Glacier, Alaska with Terry Christensen, Glenn Dunmire, Brian Jonas and Brian McCray May 3–21, 1999
* 1999 ''Odyssey'', Grand Capucin(VI 5.9 A5), Mont Blanc (French Alps), with Giovanni Groaz
* 1999 ''Dark Star'' (VI 5.10 A5), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Giovanni Groaz
* 2001 ''The Beast Pillar'', (V11 5.10b WI4+ A5) The Moose's Tooth, Buckskin Glacier, Alaska with Spencer Pfinsten
* 2001 ''Welcome to Afghanistan'' (VI 5.9 A4), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Giovanni Groaz
* 2002 ''Pointless Connection'' (VI 5.9 A4+), Yosemite Pointless, Yosemite, California with Giovanni Groaz
* 2004 ''Old Guides Variation'' (VI 5.8 A3), El Capitan, Yosemite, California with Jackson Marsten and Giovanni Groaz

Publications

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References

Bibliography

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External links

ClimbAndMore.com

{{DEFAULTSORT:Bridwell, Jim
1944 births
2018 deaths
American mountain climbers
American rock climbers
People from San Antonio