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Jean-Claude Ellena (born 1947,
Grasse Grasse (; Provençal oc, Grassa in classical norm or in Mistralian norm ; traditional it, Grassa) is the only subprefecture of the Alpes-Maritimes department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte-d'Azur region on the French Riviera. In 2017, the c ...
,
France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of Overseas France, overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic Ocean, Atlantic, Pacific Ocean, Pac ...
) is a French perfumer and writer.


Career

At an early age, Ellena picked jasmine with his grandmother in Grasse to sell to perfumers. Beginning with menial jobs, he became an apprentice at the factory of the essential oils maker Antoine Chiris in Grasse at the age 16 working on the night shift. He has reminisced, “Among other essential oils, we made a lot of
oakmoss ''Evernia prunastri'', also known as oakmoss, is a species of lichen. It can be found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere. Oakmoss grows primarily on the trunk and branches of oak trees, but is also commonly ...
, and after I’d put the distiller on, I’d lie down on a bed of it and sleep.” In 1968, he became the first student at what was at the time the newly formed perfumery school of Givaudan, one of the oldest perfume factories, in
Geneva, Switzerland Geneva ( ; french: Genève ) frp, Genèva ; german: link=no, Genf ; it, Ginevra ; rm, Genevra is the second-most populous city in Switzerland (after Zürich) and the most populous city of Romandy, the French-speaking part of Switzerland. Situa ...
. He left Givaudan in 1976 with two others perfumers for Lautier in Grasse. In 1983, he joined Givaudan Paris as chief perfumer and Roure-Givandan and then he worked at Haarmaan & Reimer in Paris (which merged in 2003 with Dragoco to form Symrise). In 1990, he became one of the founding members of the
Osmothèque The Osmothèque (from Greek ''osmē'' "scent" patterned on French ''bibliothèque'' "library") is the world's largest scent archive, a leading international research institution tracing the history of perfumery, based in Versailles with conferenc ...
, an international scent archive based in
Versailles The Palace of Versailles ( ; french: Château de Versailles ) is a former royal residence built by King Louis XIV located in Versailles, about west of Paris, France. The palace is owned by the French Republic and since 1995 has been managed, u ...
. Ellena has been profoundly influenced by pioneering perfumer
Edmond Roudnitska Edmond Roudnitska (1905–1996) was a French master perfumer and author. He is known for creating perfumes such as Dior's Eau Sauvage and Diorissimo, and Rochas's Femme. Many of his creations are still in production. He was the father of perfu ...
, particularly by his article, “Advice to a Young Perfumer”, in a magazine given to him by his father. Between 2004 and 2016 he was
Hermès Hermès International S.A., or simply Hermès ( , ), is a French luxury design house established in 1837. It specializes in leather goods, lifestyle accessories, home furnishings, perfumery, jewelry, watches and ready-to-wear. Its logo, since ...
's exclusive in-house perfumer, appointed by
Jean-Louis Dumas Jean-Louis Robert Frédéric Dumas (2 February 1938 – 1 May 2010) was a French billionaire businessman who was the chairman of the Hermès group from 1978 to 2006. He was also the company's artistic director. Dumas is credited with turning Her ...
and Véronique Gautier. He has created fragrances for several major perfume houses including The Different Company, which he founded before joining Hermès. His daughter Céline Ellena now creates for The Different Company. In 2005, Ellena created Un Jardin sur le Nil for Hermès. The story behind the creation of this fragrance was the subject of the book ''The Perfect Scent: A Year in the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York'' by
Chandler Burr Chandler Burr is an American journalist, author, and museum curator. Early life and education Born in Chicago and raised in Washington, D.C., Burr graduated from Principia College in Elsah, Illinois. He began his journalism career in 1987 as a ...
. In addition, the story in a limited form and accounts of other scents as well as his autobiography has been published in ''Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent''. He is also a writer of "The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur." Since 2019, Jean Claude Ellena became the exclusive Olfactory Creation Director o
Le Couvent
- Maison de Parfum. He created for (and with) Le Couvent a contemporary Haute Parfumerie rich and unique, luxurious and accessible, made from of noble and rare natural materials, 100% vegan: « ''Creating a Singular Haute Parfumerie accessible to all, working with beautiful materials and noble essences, is what seduced me at the Couvent. This vision of the extraordinary perfume that we share. A new approach, different from what we generally find''. » J.C. Ellena


Notable Works


For Hermès

* Hermèssence collection (exclusively in
Hermès Hermès International S.A., or simply Hermès ( , ), is a French luxury design house established in 1837. It specializes in leather goods, lifestyle accessories, home furnishings, perfumery, jewelry, watches and ready-to-wear. Its logo, since ...
stores) **Rose Ikebana (2004) **Osmanthe Yunnan (2005) **Brin de Réglisse (2007) **Vétiver Tonka (2004) **Vanille Galante (2009) **Paprika Brasil (2006) **Santal Massoïa (2011) **Ambre Narguilé (2004) **Iris Ukiyoé (2010) **Poivre Samarcande (2006) **Épice Marine (2013) **Cuir d’Ange (2014) **Muguet Porcelaine (2016) * Rocabar (1998), with Gilles Romey and Bernard Bourgeois * Un Jardin en Méditerranée (2003) * Un Jardin sur le Nil (2005) * Elixir des Merveilles (2006) * Terre d'Hermès (2006) * Kelly Calèche (2007) * Un Jardin après la Mousson (2008) * Kelly Calèche Parfum (2008) * Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum (2009) * Eau de Gentiane Blanche (2009) * Eau de Pamplemousse Rose (2009) * Eau Claire des Merveilles (2010) * Voyage d'Hermès (2010) * Un Jardin sur le Toit (2011) * Voyage d'Hermes Perfume (2012) * Jour d'Hermes (2012) * L’Ambre des Merveilles (2012) * Bel Ami Vetiver (2013) * Jour d'Hermes Extrait de Parfum (2013) * Jour d'Hermes Absolue (2014) * Le Jardin de Monsieur Li (2015) * Eau de Neroli Dore (2016)


For Le Couvent-Maison de Parfum

* Collection les Parfums Signature **Mimosa (2021) **Tuberosa (2021) **Ambra (2021) **Vetivera (2022) * Collection les Eaux de Parfum Singulieres, en tant que Directeur de Création Olfactive ** Nubica (2019) ** Lysandra (2019) ** Hattaï (2019) ** Saïga (2019) ** Heliaca (2019) ** Theria (2021) ** Agapi (2022) * Collection les Eaux de Parfum Remarquables, en tant que Directeur de Création Olfactive ** Tinhare (2019) ** Kythnos (2019) ** Palmarola (2019) ** Anori (2019) ** Solano (2019) * Collection les Colognes Botaniques, en tant que Directeur de Création Olfactive ** Aqua Majestae (2019) ** Aqua Imperi (2019) ** Aqua Nymphae (2019) ** Aqua Millefolia (2020) ** Aqua Amantia (2020) ** Aqua Mahana (2022)


For Bulgari

* Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert (1992) * Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Extrême (1996)


For Frédéric Malle

* Angéliques sous la Pluie (2000) * Cologne Bigarade (2001) * Bigarade Concentrée (2002) * L'Eau d'Hiver (2003) * Rose & Cuir (2019)


For L'Artisan Parfumeur

* L'Eau d'Ambre (1978) * La Haie Fleurie du Hameau (1982) * Ambre Extrême (2001) * Bois Farine (2003)


For Van Cleef & Arpels

* First (1976) * Miss Arpels (1994)


For The Different Company

* Bois d’Iris (2000) * Osmanthus (2001) * Rose Poivrée (2001) * Bergamote (formerly Divine Bergamote) (2003)


For Perris Monte Carlo

* Rose de Mai (2019) * Jasmin de Pays (2019) * Mimosa Tanneron (2020) * Lavande Romaine (2020)


Others

* Essence Rare (1973 and 2018), for Houbigant * Eau de Campagne (1974), for
Sisley Alfred Sisley (; ; 30 October 1839 – 29 January 1899) was an Impressionist landscape painter who was born and spent most of his life in France, but retained British citizenship. He was the most consistent of the Impressionists in his dedicatio ...
* Rumba (1988), with Ron Winnegrad, for Balenciaga * Globe (1990), for
Rochas Rochas is a fashion, beauty, and perfume house founded in 1925 by French designer Marcel Rochas, the first designer of 2/3-length coats and skirts with pockets and one of the two designers, along with Elsa Schiaparelli, who launched the fashion fo ...
* Déclaration (1998), for
Cartier Cartier may refer to: People * Cartier (surname), a surname (including a list of people with the name) * Cartier Martin (born 1984), American basketball player Places * Cartier Island, an island north-west of Australia that is part of Australia' ...
* In Love Again (1998), for Yves Saint Laurent * Aromantic (1999), for Decléor * Bazar Femme (2002), with Bertrand Duchaufour & Emilie Copperman, for Christian Lacroix * Blanc (2003), for Paul & Joe * Colonia Assoluta (2003), with Bertrand Duchaufour, for
Acqua di Parma Acqua di Parma is an Italian lifestyle and fashion company that produces fragrances, candles, bathrobes, and leather accessories. All of its ranges are exclusively made in Italy, and distributed in 43 countries. History The company's original ...
* Emporio Armani Night for Her (2003), with Lucas Sieuzac, for Giorgio Armani * Eau de Lalique, with Emilie Copperman, for
Lalique Lalique is a French glassmaker, founded by renowned glassmaker and jeweller René Lalique in 1888. Lalique is best known for producing glass art, including perfume bottles, vases, and hood ornaments during the early twentieth century. Following t ...
* Amouage Dia pour Femme, for Amouage


After Hermes

Ellena left Hermes in 2016, and Swiss-born chemist and perfumer Christine Nagel replaced him as Hermes in-house perfumer. Ellena's final fragrances for Hermes were Eau de Néroli Doré and Hermèssence Muguet Porcelaine. In 2018 Ellena worked with the House of Houbigant, to recreate Essence Rare, a fragrance he had first signed in 1973, his first assignment as a young perfumer in New York. Ellena returned to creating for Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle, his latest work, "Rose & Cuir," debuting in September 2019. He also became the olfactive director of the brand Le Couvent des Minimes. In 2019 Ellena also started an ongoing collaboration with Perris Monte Carlo, for whom he has created the Collection de Grasse, an exclusive fragrance collection paying tribute to the history and unique craftmanship of the art of perfumery in Pays de Grasse. Since 2019, Jean Claude Ellena is the Olfactory creation director of Le Couvent - Maison de Parfum. he created for and with Le Couvent a contemporary Haute Parfumerie rich and unique, luxurious and accessible, made from of noble and rare natural materials, 100% vegan: « Creating a Singular Haute Parfumerie accessible to all, working with beautiful materials and noble essences, is what seduced me at the Couvent. This vision of the extraordinary perfume that we share. A new approach, different from what we generally find. » J.C. Ellena


Personal life

Ellena's father, brother, and daughter Celine are also perfumers.Jean-Claude Ellena, ''Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent.'' New York: Arcade, 2011. (English translation of ''Parfum.'' Collection: Que sais-je? Paris: Presses Universitaires de France - PUF, 2007. ) Known for his signature white shirts, Ellena himself never wears perfume or cologne. His daughter Celine designed the Hermès Home Fragrance Collection.


References


External links


The Different Company
*
Chandler Burr Chandler Burr is an American journalist, author, and museum curator. Early life and education Born in Chicago and raised in Washington, D.C., Burr graduated from Principia College in Elsah, Illinois. He began his journalism career in 1987 as a ...

Scent of the Nile: Jean-Claude Ellena creates a new perfume
''
New Yorker New Yorker or ''variant'' primarily refers to: * A resident of the State of New York ** Demographics of New York (state) * A resident of New York City ** List of people from New York City * ''The New Yorker'', a magazine founded in 1925 * '' The ...
'', 15 March 2005.
Amouage Perfumes

Le Couvent-Maison de Parfum
{{DEFAULTSORT:Ellena, Jean-Claude People from Grasse French perfumers Living people 1947 births