The is a
mountaineering
Mountaineering or alpinism, is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, a ...
and
climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or any other part of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains (e.g. the eight thousanders), to small boulders. Climbing is done fo ...
organisation based in
Tokyo
Tokyo (; ja, 東京, , ), officially the Tokyo Metropolis ( ja, 東京都, label=none, ), is the capital and largest city of Japan. Formerly known as Edo, its metropolitan area () is the most populous in the world, with an estimated 37.468 ...
, Japan.
History
The Japanese Alpine Club was founded in October 1905 as the first mountaineering club in Asia. In late 19th century modern alpinism had been imported from Europe to Japan. The founding of JAC was inspired by the English
Alpine Club
The first alpine club, the Alpine Club, based in the United Kingdom, was founded in London in 1857 as a gentlemen's club. It was once described as:
:"a club of English gentlemen devoted to mountaineering, first of all in the Alps, members of which ...
.
In 1936 a JAC expedition made first ascent of
Nanda Kot
Nanda Kot ( Kumaoni-नन्दा कोट) is a mountain peak of the Himalaya range located in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand state in India. It lies in the Kumaon Himalaya, just outside the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi S ...
(6,861 m / 22,510 ft) in Garhwal Himalaya. This is the first assault by the Japanese in the greater range of Himalaya. The most famous JAC expedition was 1956 the first ascent of
Manaslu
Manaslu ( ne, मनास्लु, also known as Kutang; muh-NAA-slu) is the eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. The name Mana ...
(8,163 m / 26,781 ft). Toshio Imanishi (Japan) and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa (Nepal) reached the summit on May 9, 1956.
The club has a special focus on expeditions and exploration of remote areas. The JAC publishes the yearly magazine ''
Japanese Alpine News
Japanese may refer to:
* Something from or related to Japan, an island country in East Asia
* Japanese language, spoken mainly in Japan
* Japanese people, the ethnic group that identifies with Japan through ancestry or culture
** Japanese diaspo ...
'' (JAN).
Expeditions (selection)
* 1956: First ascent of
Manaslu
Manaslu ( ne, मनास्लु, also known as Kutang; muh-NAA-slu) is the eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. The name Mana ...
(8,163 m / 26,781 ft) by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa
* 1970: First ascent Southeast Ridge of
Makalu
Makalu ( ne, मकालु हिमाल, Makālu himāl; zh, t=馬卡魯峰, p=Mǎkǎlǔ fēng) is the fifth highest mountain in the world at . It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, in Nepal. One of th ...
(8,485 m / 27,838 ft) by Yuichi Ozaki and Hajime Tanaka
* 1980: North face of
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heig ...
, by Japanese Couloir (FA) and Hornbein Couloir.
* 1992: First ascent of
Namcha Barwa
Namcha Barwa or Namchabarwa (; Chinese: 南迦巴瓦峰, Pinyin: ''Nánjiābāwǎ Fēng'') is a mountain peak lying in Tibet in the region of Pemako. The traditional definition of the Himalaya extending from the Indus River to the Brahmaputra ...
(7,782 m / 25,531 ft)
* 1996: First ascent of
Ultar II (7,388 m / 24,238 ft) by Akito Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka
[Japanese Alpine Club]
''JAC Expeditions''
, Retrieved 30 June 2015.
References
External links
{{Authority control
Sports governing bodies in Japan
Mountaineering in Japan
Climbing organizations
Alpine clubs
1905 establishments in Japan