The people of
Jammu
Jammu is the winter capital of the Indian union territory of Jammu and Kashmir (union territory), Jammu and Kashmir. It is the headquarters and the largest city in Jammu district of the union territory. Lying on the banks of the river Tawi Ri ...
have the following traditional clothing:
Ghagra choli
It is traditional for women to wear
ghagra choli
Ghagra choli (also known as lehenga choli and locally as chaniya choli) is a type of ethnic clothing for women from the Indian Subcontinent, notably in the Indian states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Haryana, Pu ...
and the scarf ensemble which was also popular in the
Punjab
Punjab (; Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent, comprising ...
.
It is still traditional for women to wear the kurta with a lehnga,< as an alternative to the
suthan and
kurta
A ''kurta'' is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, (subscription required) Quote: "A loose shirt or tunic worn by men and women." Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South ...
.
Peshwaj
The traditional ghagra choli was then replaced by the
peshwaj
''Peshwaj'' (''peshwaz'', ''paswaj'', ''tilluck'', dress) was a ladies outfit similar to a gown or jama coat with front open, tied around the waist, having full sleeves, and the length was full neck to heels. Peshwaj was one of the magnificent cos ...
for women which flows to the ankles which would sometimes be worn with a suthan (very loose pants with many folds).
The men would wear the Jamma (Mughal style shirt) with the suthan.
Suthan and kurta
![Dogri play Bawa Jitto directed by Balwant Thakur Produced in 1986 and still going strong](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a9/Dogri_play_Bawa_Jitto_directed_by_Balwant_Thakur_Produced_in_1986_and_still_going_strong.jpg)
The traditional dress for men and women is to wear the suthan and kurta but the styles are gender-specific.
Dogri suthan
The traditional Dogri suthan is wide at the top, roomy at the legs and has numerous pleats at the ankles.
Modern suthan
![Men of the British Punjab army in suthans 1895 Punjab Hills](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1c/Men_of_the_British_Punjab_army_in_suthans_1895_Punjab_Hills._Churidar_suthan.jpg)
However, the modern style of suthan worn in Jammu is a remnant of the tight suthan which was once popular throughout the
Punjab region
Punjab (; Punjabi Language, Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also Romanization, romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the I ...
. It is very loose at the top but is very tight from the knees to the ankles.
However, the style is now more popular in Jammu and
Himachal Pradesh
Himachal Pradesh (; ; "Snow-laden Mountain Province") is a state in the northern part of India. Situated in the Western Himalayas, it is one of the thirteen mountain states and is characterized by an extreme landscape featuring several peaks ...
as the tight suthan is useful in the hills. When worn by men, the drawers are called ghuttana and when worn by women, the suthan (in a variety of colours). When the tight part of the suthan, up to the knees, has multiple close fitting folds, the suthan is referred to as Dogri pants or Dogri suthan, in
Jammu
Jammu is the winter capital of the Indian union territory of Jammu and Kashmir (union territory), Jammu and Kashmir. It is the headquarters and the largest city in Jammu district of the union territory. Lying on the banks of the river Tawi Ri ...
and churidar suthan in
Himachal Pradesh
Himachal Pradesh (; ; "Snow-laden Mountain Province") is a state in the northern part of India. Situated in the Western Himalayas, it is one of the thirteen mountain states and is characterized by an extreme landscape featuring several peaks ...
. It is also worn in the hilly area of the
Punjab region
Punjab (; Punjabi Language, Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also Romanization, romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the I ...
. In
Jammu
Jammu is the winter capital of the Indian union territory of Jammu and Kashmir (union territory), Jammu and Kashmir. It is the headquarters and the largest city in Jammu district of the union territory. Lying on the banks of the river Tawi Ri ...
, members of all communities wear the suthan.
The traditional Dogri
kurta
A ''kurta'' is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, (subscription required) Quote: "A loose shirt or tunic worn by men and women." Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South ...
for men is open at the front and flares out from the waist to the knees. The kurta for women tends to be long and cut straight, a style adopted from neighbouring Punjab,
as local culture shares an affinity with the
Punjab region
Punjab (; Punjabi Language, Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also Romanization, romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the I ...
, especially the southern area.
Churidar pajama
The
churidar
Churidars, also churidar pyjamas, are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in Indian Subcontinent. Churidars are a variant of the common shalwar pants. Shalwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more ...
pajama, also called churidar suthan, which forms part of the traditional attire of men and women in
Punjab
Punjab (; Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the Indian subcontinent, comprising ...
is a combination of the tight suthan of the
Punjab region
Punjab (; Punjabi Language, Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also Romanization, romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the I ...
and the traditional Dogri loose suthan. Accordingly, the churidar pajama is believed to be derived from the suthan. The
Churidar
Churidars, also churidar pyjamas, are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in Indian Subcontinent. Churidars are a variant of the common shalwar pants. Shalwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more ...
pajama is popular all over the sub-continent and was developed in the
Punjab region
Punjab (; Punjabi Language, Punjabi: پنجاب ; ਪੰਜਾਬ ; ; also Romanization, romanised as ''Panjāb'' or ''Panj-Āb'') is a geopolitical, cultural, and historical region in South Asia, specifically in the northern part of the I ...
, and is associated with the Punjab.
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References
{{reflist
Culture of Jammu and Kashmir
Indian clothing
Indian fashion