Jacques Schmidt (16 March 1933 – 8 September 1996) was a French
costume designer
A costume designer is a person who designs costumes for a film, stage production or television show. The role of the costume designer is to create the characters' outfits or costumes and balance the scenes with texture and colour, etc. The costume ...
, who collaborated regularly with stage directors
Antoine Bourseiller Antoine Bourseiller (8 July 1930 – 21 May 2013) was a French comedian and opera and theatre director.
Born in Paris in 1930, from 1960 to 1963 Bourseiller headed the Studio des Champs-Elysées. In 1966, he was named director of the Centre dra ...
,
Patrice Chéreau
Patrice Chéreau (; 2 November 1944 – 7 October 2013) was a French opera and theatre director, filmmaker, actor and producer. In France he is best known for his work for the theatre, internationally for his films '' La Reine Margot'' and ...
and
Roger Planchon
Roger Planchon (born 12 September 1931 in Saint-Chamond, Loire, died on 12 May 2009 in Paris), was a French playwright, director, and filmmaker.
Biography
Roger Planchon spent his childhood in the Ardèche, notably in Dornas. He found its inspir ...
.
Early life and education
Schmidt was born in
Briançon
Briançon (, ) is the sole subprefecture of the Hautes-Alpes department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in Southeastern France. It is the highest city in France at an altitude of , based on the national definition as a community cont ...
,
Hautes-Alpes
Hautes-Alpes (; oc, Auts Aups; en, Upper Alps) is a department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of Southeastern France. It is located in the heart of the French Alps, after which it is named. Hautes-Alpes had a population of 141,220 ...
.
From age 16, he studied at the school for
Haute Couture in Paris. He worked at the
Sorbonne
Sorbonne may refer to:
* Sorbonne (building), historic building in Paris, which housed the University of Paris and is now shared among multiple universities.
*the University of Paris (c. 1150 – 1970)
*one of its components or linked institution, ...
as both actor and costume designer.
Career
In 1952, He participated in the production of ''
Die Perser'' by
Aeschylus
Aeschylus (, ; grc-gre, Αἰσχύλος ; c. 525/524 – c. 456/455 BC) was an ancient Greek tragedian, and is often described as the father of tragedy. Academic knowledge of the genre begins with his work, and understanding of earlier Greek ...
in
Freiburg im Breisgau
Freiburg im Breisgau (; abbreviated as Freiburg i. Br. or Freiburg i. B.; Low Alemannic German, Low Alemannic: ''Friburg im Brisgau''), commonly referred to as Freiburg, is an independent city in Baden-Württemberg, Germany. With a population o ...
.
From 1953 he worked exclusively as costume designer.
From the 1960s he worked for Patrice Chéreau, the artistic director of the ''Public-Theatre'' in the Parisian suburb of
Sartrouville
Sartrouville () is a commune in the Yvelines department, Île-de-France, north central France. it is located in the north-western suburbs of Paris, from the center of Paris.
Name
In the Middle Ages the name Sartrouville was recorded in Medieva ...
.
The team there included stage designer
Richard Peduzzi
Richard Peduzzi (born 1943 in Argentan, Orne) is a French scenographer. He was the director of the French Academy in Rome from September 2002 to August 2008.
Since 1969, he has decorated the sets designed by Patrice Chéreau, and together they ...
and lighting designer
André Diot
André Diot (born 1935) is a cinematographer and lighting designer of French theatre and film, who played an important role in the emergence of the profession in France. In a long career, he designed the lighting for the 1976 Bayreuth ''Jahrhunder ...
. They collaborated in many later productions,
including in 1976 the ''
Jahrhundertring
The ''Jahrhundertring'' (''Centenary Ring'') was the production of Richard Wagner's ''Ring Cycle'', ''Der Ring des Nibelungen'', at the Bayreuth Festival in 1976, celebrating the centenary of both the festival and the first performance of the comp ...
'', to celebrate the centenary of
Wagner
Wilhelm Richard Wagner ( ; ; 22 May 181313 February 1883) was a German composer, theatre director, polemicist, and conductor who is chiefly known for his operas (or, as some of his mature works were later known, "music dramas"). Unlike most op ...
's cycle ''
Der Ring des Nibelungen
(''The Ring of the Nibelung''), WWV 86, is a cycle of four German-language epic music dramas composed by Richard Wagner. The works are based loosely on characters from Germanic heroic legend, namely Norse legendary sagas and the '' Nibe ...
'' and the
Bayreuth Festival
The Bayreuth Festival (german: link=no, Bayreuther Festspiele) is a music festival held annually in Bayreuth, Germany, at which performances of operas by the 19th-century German composer Richard Wagner are presented. Wagner himself conceived ...
, conducted by
Pierre Boulez
Pierre Louis Joseph Boulez (; 26 March 1925 – 5 January 2016) was a French composer, conductor and writer, and the founder of several musical institutions. He was one of the dominant figures of post-war Western classical music.
Born in Mont ...
.
In a collaboration with the same team, he designed the costumes for the first performance of the three-act version of
Alban Berg
Alban Maria Johannes Berg ( , ; 9 February 1885 – 24 December 1935) was an Austrian composer of the Second Viennese School. His compositional style combined Romantic lyricism with the twelve-tone technique. Although he left a relatively sma ...
's ''
Lulu
Lulu may refer to:
Companies
* LuLu, an early automobile manufacturer
* Lulu.com, an online e-books and print self-publishing platform, distributor, and retailer
* Lulu Hypermarket, a retail chain in Asia
* Lululemon Athletica or simply Lulu, a C ...
'', completed by
Friedrich Cerha
Friedrich Cerha (born 17 February 1926) is an Austrian composer, conductor and music educator.
Education and Career
Cerha was born in Vienna, Austria, and educated at the Viennese Music Academy (violin with Váša Příhoda, composition with A ...
, at the
Paris Opera
The Paris Opera (, ) is the primary opera and ballet company of France. It was founded in 1669 by Louis XIV as the , and shortly thereafter was placed under the leadership of Jean-Baptiste Lully and officially renamed the , but continued to be ...
on 24 February 1979, again conducted by Boulez and with sets by Richard Peduzzi, with
Teresa Stratas
Teresa Stratas (born May 26, 1938) is a retired operatic soprano from Canada of Greek descent. She is especially well known for her award-winning recording of Alban Berg's ''Lulu''.
Early life and career
Stratas was born Anastasia Stratakis to ...
in the title role.
In film, Schmidt created in 1975 the costumes for ''
La Chair de l'orchidée
''La Chair de l'orchidée'' (The Flesh of the Orchid) is a 1975 film by Patrice Chéreau as his directorial debut, adapted by him and by Jean-Claude Carrière from the 1948 book '' The Flesh of the Orchid'' by British writer James Hadley Chase, ...
'', an adaptation of the 1948 novel ''The Flesh of the Orchid'' by mystery writer
James Hadley Chase
James Hadley Chase (24 December 1906 – 6 February 1985) was an English writer. While his birth name was René Lodge Brabazon Raymond, he was well known by his various pseudonyms, including James Hadley Chase, James L. Docherty, Raymond ...
, for Chéreau's first film. Schmidt also created the costumes for 1976
Roman Polanski
Raymond Roman Thierry Polański , group=lower-alpha, name=note_a (né Liebling; 18 August 1933) is a French-Polish film director, producer, screenwriter, and actor. He is the recipient of numerous accolades, including an Academy Award, two ...
's film ''
The Tenant
''The Tenant'' (French: ''Le locataire'') is a 1976 psychological horror film set in France but filmed in English and directed by Roman Polanski, starring Polanski, Isabelle Adjani, Melvyn Douglas, and Shelley Winters. It is based upon the 1964 ...
'' (''Le locataire'')
and the 1978 film ''
Perceval le Gallois
''Perceval le Gallois'' () is a 1978 historical drama film written and directed by Éric Rohmer, based on the 12th-century Arthurian romance ''Perceval, the Story of the Grail'' by Chrétien de Troyes.
Synopsis
The film chronicles Percival's kni ...
'' by
Éric Rohmer
Jean Marie Maurice Schérer or Maurice Henri Joseph Schérer, known as Éric Rohmer (; 21 March 192011 January 2010), was a French film director, film critic, journalist, novelist, screenwriter, and teacher.
Rohmer was the last of the post-World ...
.
![Costume-Jacques-Schmidt](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/28/Costume-Jacques-Schmidt.jpg)
In 1985 he designed in collaboration with Emmanuel Peduzzi costumes for
Aristophanes
Aristophanes (; grc, Ἀριστοφάνης, ; c. 446 – c. 386 BC), son of Philippus, of the deme
In Ancient Greece, a deme or ( grc, δῆμος, plural: demoi, δημοι) was a suburb or a subdivision of Athens and other city-states ...
' ''
Les Oiseaux'', staged by
Jean-Louis Barrault
Jean-Louis Bernard Barrault (; 8 September 1910 – 22 January 1994) was a French actor, director and mime artist who worked on both screen and stage.
Biography
Barrault was born in Le Vésinet in France in 1910. His father was 'a Burgundia ...
at the Théâtre Renaud-Barrault in Paris.
He worked at Chéreau's
Théâtre des Amandiers, for example in 1985 in a production of Paul Claudel's ''La Ville'' staged by
Bernard Sobel
Bernard Sobel (1887–1964) was an American playwright, a drama critic for the ''New York Daily Mirror'', an author of a number of books on theatre and theatre history, and a publicist.
Career
Among his clients were Florenz Ziegfeld, Charles Dil ...
. In 1991 he designed with Emmanuel Peduzzi for the
San Francisco Opera
San Francisco Opera (SFO) is an American opera company founded in 1923 by Gaetano Merola (1881–1953) based in San Francisco, California.
History
Gaetano Merola (1923–1953)
Merola's road to prominence in the Bay Area began in 1906 when he ...
650 "historically appropriate costumes" (including "uniforms recycled from Hollywood") for a large-scale production of Serge Prokofiev's opera ''Voina y Mir'' (''
War and Peace
''War and Peace'' (russian: Война и мир, translit=Voyna i mir; pre-reform Russian: ; ) is a literary work by the Russian author Leo Tolstoy that mixes fictional narrative with chapters on history and philosophy. It was first published ...
''), staged by
Jérôme Savary
Jérôme Savary (27 June 1942 – 4 March 2013) was an Argentinian-French theater director and actor. His work has democratized and widened the appeal of musical theater in France, drawing together and blending such genres as opera, operetta, and m ...
and conducted by
Valery Gergiev
Valery Abisalovich Gergiev (russian: Вале́рий Абиса́лович Ге́ргиев, ; os, Гергиты Абисалы фырт Валери, Gergity Abisaly fyrt Valeri; born 2 May 1953) is a Russian conductor and opera company d ...
.
Again with Emmanuel Peduzzi, Schmidt designed in 1995 the costumes for Mozart's ''
Le nozze di Figaro
''The Marriage of Figaro'' ( it, Le nozze di Figaro, links=no, ), K. 492, is a ''commedia per musica'' (opera buffa) in four acts composed in 1786 by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, with an Italian libretto written by Lorenzo Da Ponte. It premie ...
'' at the
Salzburg Festival
The Salzburg Festival (german: Salzburger Festspiele) is a prominent festival of music and drama established in 1920. It is held each summer (for five weeks starting in late July) in the Austrian town of Salzburg, the birthplace of Wolfgang Amad ...
, conducted by
Nikolaus Harnoncourt
Johann Nikolaus Harnoncourt or historically Johann Nikolaus Graf de la Fontaine und d'Harnoncourt-Unverzagt; () (6 December 1929 – 5 March 2016) was an Austrian conductor, particularly known for his historically informed performances of music ...
(1995) and staged by
Luc Bondy
Luc Bondy (17 July 1948 – 28 November 2015) was a Swiss theatre and film director.
Life and career
upright=1.3, '' Charlotte Salomon'' at the Salzburg Festival 2014
Trained in Paris with the theatre teacher Jacques Lecoq, he received a job ...
in sets by Richard Peduzzi.
He died in Paris.
Awards
* 1988
Molière Award
The Molière Award recognises achievement in live French theatre and is the national theatre award of France. The awards are presented and decided by the ''Association professionnelle et artistique du théâtre'' (APAT) and supported by the Min ...
for best costumes: ''
George Dandin'' (staged by
Roger Planchon
Roger Planchon (born 12 September 1931 in Saint-Chamond, Loire, died on 12 May 2009 in Paris), was a French playwright, director, and filmmaker.
Biography
Roger Planchon spent his childhood in the Ardèche, notably in Dornas. He found its inspir ...
)
* 1989 Molière Award for best costumes: ''
Hamlet
''The Tragedy of Hamlet, Prince of Denmark'', often shortened to ''Hamlet'' (), is a tragedy written by William Shakespeare sometime between 1599 and 1601. It is Shakespeare's longest play, with 29,551 words. Set in Denmark, the play depicts ...
'' (staged by
Patrice Chéreau
Patrice Chéreau (; 2 November 1944 – 7 October 2013) was a French opera and theatre director, filmmaker, actor and producer. In France he is best known for his work for the theatre, internationally for his films '' La Reine Margot'' and ...
)
*
Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres
The ''Ordre des Arts et des Lettres'' (Order of Arts and Letters) is an order of France established on 2 May 1957 by the Minister of Culture. Its supplementary status to the was confirmed by President Charles de Gaulle in 1963. Its purpose is ...
References
External links
Jacques Schmidt ''Les Archives du Spectacle''
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Schmidt, Jacques
1933 births
1996 deaths
People from Briançon
French costume designers
Chevaliers of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres