HOME

TheInfoList



OR:

Costume and gold and silver plate belonging to Elizabeth I were recorded in several inventories, and other documents including rolls of New Year's Day gifts. Arthur Jefferies Collins published the ''Jewels and Plate of Queen Elizabeth I: The Inventory of 1574'' from manuscripts in 1955. The published inventory describes jewels and silver-plate belonging to Elizabeth with detailed references to other source material. Two inventories of Elizabeth's costume and some of her jewellery were published by
Janet Arnold Janet Arnold (6 October 1932 – 2 November 1998) was a British clothing historian, costume designer, teacher, conservator, and author. She is best known for her series of works called ''Patterns of Fashion'', which included accurate scale sewi ...
in ''Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocke'd'' (Maney, 1988).


Introduction

In 1574 the office of the Jewel House was located in a two-storey building on the south side of the White Tower. This contained the records of the jewels and packing materials for sending jewels to court. The 1574 inventory was made John Astley, Master and Treasurer of the Jewel House. The Master had an annual salary of £50 and was able to exact payments from goldsmiths appointed to work for the Jewel House, and those who transported plate from the House to diplomats. The post was lucrative, but some of the perquisites of the role were exaggerated or overstated by Sir Gilbert Talbot, who was made Master in 1660 and in 1680 wrote a treatise entitled ''Of the Jewel house''. In the inventory the items were listed in categories; below an outline of the main categories is given with some examples of the 1,605 entries. The sources used by Collins were
British Library The British Library is the national library of the United Kingdom and is one of the largest libraries in the world. It is estimated to contain between 170 and 200 million items from many countries. As a legal deposit library, the British ...
Harley MS The Harleian Library, Harley Collection, Harleian Collection and other variants ( la, Bibliotheca Harleiana) is one of the main "closed" collections (namely, historic collections to which new material is no longer added) of the British Library in ...
1560 and Stowe MS 555 (see external links). The manuscripts represent the "Quenis Majesties juelles plate and other stuff" in 1574 and additions by gift or purchase over the next 20 years which were kept in the
Jewel House The Jewel House is a vault housing the British Crown Jewels in the Waterloo Block (formerly a barracks) at the Tower of London. It was opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1994 and refurbished in 2012. Regalia have been kept in various parts of ...
at the
Tower of London The Tower of London, officially His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, is a historic castle on the north bank of the River Thames in central London. It lies within the London Borough of Tower Hamlets, which is separa ...
. Collins also collated information from other books and manuscripts to cross-reference information about the objects listed. Gifts of plate to the queen passed from the
Privy Chamber A privy chamber was the private apartment of a royal residence in England. The Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber were noble-born servants to the Crown who would wait and attend on the King in private, as well as during various court activities, f ...
to the Jewel House. Some pieces were melted down and others were given as
diplomatic gift A diplomatic gift is a gift given by a :diplomat, politician or leader when visiting a foreign country. Usually the gift is reciprocated by the host. The use of diplomatic gifts dates back to the ancient world and givers have competed to outdo e ...
s. When the queen travelled, the towns she visited often gave her gifts of
silver-gilt Silver-gilt or gilded/gilt silver, sometimes known in American English by the French term vermeil, is silver (either pure or sterling) which has been gilded with gold. Most large objects made in goldsmithing that appear to be gold are actually ...
cups. Janet Arnold published an annotated wardrobe inventory now in the British Library, (Stowe MS 557), consulting also a duplicate copy at the National Archives, and another inventory held by the
Folger Shakespeare Library The Folger Shakespeare Library is an independent research library on Capitol Hill in Washington, D.C., United States. It has the world's largest collection of the printed works of William Shakespeare, and is a primary repository for rare materia ...
, MS V. b.72. The inventory includes some of the queen's jewels.


Outline of the 1574 inventory of plate


Gold plate

*''Juelles of Golde'' **no. 1 The
imperial crown An Imperial Crown is a crown used for the coronation of emperors. Design Crowns in Europe during the Middle Ages varied in design: During the Middle Ages the crowns worn by English kings had been described as both closed (or arched) and o ...
of England. **no. 2 The
sceptre A sceptre is a staff or wand held in the hand by a ruling monarch as an item of royal or imperial insignia. Figuratively, it means royal or imperial authority or sovereignty. Antiquity Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia The '' Was'' and other ...
of gold with a dove. **no. 3 The globe or round ball ( orb) with a cross. **no. 4 The queen's crown (intended for a queen consort). **no. 5 The queen's sceptre (intended for a queen consort). **no. 6 A pair of
bracelets A bracelet is an article of jewellery that is worn around the wrist. Bracelets may serve different uses, such as being worn as an ornament. When worn as ornaments, bracelets may have a supportive function to hold other items of decoration, suc ...
with six rubies and seven large pearls and five smaller pearls, with red laces. *Cups and bowls **no. 48 The St Agnes cup. A cup of gold with imagery the knop a crown imperial and about border of the cover and the foot a crown garnished with 61 pearls. **no. 49 A jewelled gold cup given to
James VI of Scotland James VI and I (James Charles Stuart; 19 June 1566 – 27 March 1625) was King of Scotland as James VI from 24 July 1567 and King of England and Ireland as James I from the union of the Scottish and English crowns on 24 March 1603 until hi ...
at the christening of Prince Henry at Stirling Castle on 30 August 1594. **no. 75 A cup of "assaye" of gold fair wrought and enamelled. Given to
Christian IV of Denmark Christian IV (12 April 1577 – 28 February 1648) was King of Denmark and Norway and Duke of Holstein and Schleswig from 1588 until his death in 1648. His reign of 59 years, 330 days is the longest of Danish monarchs and Scandinavian mona ...
on 5 August 1606. *Candlesticks **no. 77: Four gold candlesticks for a table with "H" and "R" enamelled in red. Three were gifts to Henry VIII from Catherine of Aragon. *
Goblet A chalice (from Latin 'mug', borrowed from Ancient Greek () 'cup') or goblet is a footed cup intended to hold a drink. In religious practice, a chalice is often used for drinking during a ceremony or may carry a certain symbolic meaning. R ...
s and jugs *
Salt cellar A salt cellar (also called a salt, salt-box and a salt pig) is an article of tableware for holding and dispensing salt. In British English, the term is normally used for what in North American English are called salt shakers. Salt cellars can be ...
s **no. 83 A salt called the "
Morris Dance Morris dancing is a form of English folk dance. It is based on rhythmic stepping and the execution of choreographed figures by a group of dancers, usually wearing bell pads on their shins. Implements such as sticks, swords and handkerchiefs may ...
" decorated with precious stones and pearls with 5 morris dancers, a drummer, and a lady. The salt was taken to
The Hague The Hague ( ; nl, Den Haag or ) is a city and municipality of the Netherlands, situated on the west coast facing the North Sea. The Hague is the country's administrative centre and its seat of government, and while the official capital of ...
in October 1625 by the
Duke of Buckingham Duke of Buckingham held with Duke of Chandos, referring to Buckingham, is a title that has been created several times in the peerages of England, Great Britain, and the United Kingdom. There have also been earls and marquesses of Buckingham. ...
and pawned. *Orange-strainers * Trenchers *Spoons and forks *Basins,
ewer In American English, a pitcher is a container with a spout used for storing and pouring liquids. In English-speaking countries outside North America, a jug is any container with a handle and a mouth and spout for liquid – American "pitchers" wil ...
s and lairs **no. 125 A gold basin with the arms of
Jane Seymour Jane Seymour (c. 150824 October 1537) was Queen of England as the third wife of King Henry VIII of England from their marriage on 30 May 1536 until her death the next year. She became queen following the execution of Henry's second wife, Anne ...
with gold roses enamelled red and white, and the border of the cover engraved with roses, a bird with a ring in its mouth, and a worm or serpent. Presented to the
Constable of Castile Constable of Castile ( es, Condestable de Castilla) was a title created by John I, King of Castile in 1382, to substitute the title ''Alférez Mayor del Reino''. The constable was the second person in power in the kingdom, after the King, and hi ...
in 1604. *Glasses *Casting-bottles ** no. 148 A casting bottle with the queen's arms. Dorothea Silking, a servant of
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 – 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I; as such, she was Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and Queen of England and Ireland from the union of the Scottish and Engl ...
was accused of taking this bottle.


Silver, silver-gilt, and parcel-gilt plate

*Crosses *Book-covers **nos. 152 and 153 The covering of a Bible of silver and gilt fair wrought, and the covering of a Book of Common Prayer. These book covers were later weighed by the auditor Francis Gofton. *A
baptismal font A baptismal font is an article of church furniture used for baptism. Aspersion and affusion fonts The fonts of many Christian denominations are for baptisms using a non-immersive method, such as aspersion (sprinkling) or affusion (pouring). ...
**no. 159 The silver-gilt font was decorated with pomegranates (the emblem of
Catherine of Aragon Catherine of Aragon (also spelt as Katherine, ; 16 December 1485 – 7 January 1536) was Queen of England as the first wife of King Henry VIII from their marriage on 11 June 1509 until their annulment on 23 May 1533. She was previousl ...
), roses, and "antique" (renaissance style) decoration. It was made for
Mary I of England Mary I (18 February 1516 – 17 November 1558), also known as Mary Tudor, and as "Bloody Mary" by her Protestant opponents, was Queen of England and Ireland from July 1553 and Queen of Spain from January 1556 until her death in 1558. Sh ...
in 1555. *Church plate *
Mitre The mitre (Commonwealth English) (; Greek: μίτρα, "headband" or "turban") or miter (American English; see spelling differences), is a type of headgear now known as the traditional, ceremonial headdress of bishops and certain abbots in ...
s *Cups and cups of assay **no. 215 An "Antique" (renaissance style) gilt cup with a cover with a letter "D". Given in 1604 to Jean Grusset Richardot, President of the Privy Council of the
Netherlands ) , anthem = ( en, "William of Nassau") , image_map = , map_caption = , subdivision_type = Sovereign state , subdivision_name = Kingdom of the Netherlands , established_title = Before independence , established_date = Spanish Neth ...
. **no. 225 Two great gilt cups with German knights in armour on their covers with shields and
halberd A halberd (also called halbard, halbert or Swiss voulge) is a two-handed pole weapon that came to prominent use during the 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries. The word ''halberd'' is cognate with the German word ''Hellebarde'', deriving from ...
s. These had belonged to the
Duke of Northumberland Duke of Northumberland is a noble title that has been created three times in English and British history, twice in the Peerage of England and once in the Peerage of Great Britain. The current holder of this title is Ralph Percy, 12th Duke of ...
. With other pieces, they were given to Alessandro Roveda, a Spanish representative at the Somerset House Conference on 22 August 1604. **no 356 A cup called a "colloke" made of serpentine with a silver-gilt cover, given by Sir John Mason as a New Year's gift in 1562. The silver was sent to the
mint MiNT is Now TOS (MiNT) is a free software alternative operating system kernel for the Atari ST system and its successors. It is a multi-tasking alternative to TOS and MagiC. Together with the free system components fVDI device drivers, XaAES ...
to be made into coin in 1600. *Bowls *Bowls (gilt) *Bowls (
parcel-gilt Gilding is a decorative technique for applying a very thin coating of gold over solid surfaces such as metal (most common), wood, porcelain, or stone. A gilded object is also described as "gilt". Where metal is gilded, the metal below was tradi ...
and silver) *Pots (gilt) *Pots (parcel-gilt and silver) **no. 539 Two gilt pots with rings around their bellies and angels and ciphers (initials) around their necks. Given to Juan Fernández de Velasco, 5th Duke of Frías,
Constable of Castile Constable of Castile ( es, Condestable de Castilla) was a title created by John I, King of Castile in 1382, to substitute the title ''Alférez Mayor del Reino''. The constable was the second person in power in the kingdom, after the King, and hi ...
, in August 1604 at the Somerset House Conference. *
Flagon A flagon () is a large leather, metal, glass, plastic or ceramic vessel, used for drink, whether this be water, ale, or another liquid. A flagon is typically of about in volume, and it has either a handle (when strictly it is a jug), or (more ...
s and casting bottles (gilt) *Flagons of glass or stone bound in velvet *Spice plates * Spice boxes *Candlesticks and snuffers *Spoons *Goblets and glasses *Jugs *Tankards and Hanse pots **no. 872 A silver gilt tankard set with cameo heads, given in July 1579 to Edward Darcy, groom of the Privy Chamber, on his marriage to a daughter of Thomas Astley, another groom. **no. 874 A silver gilt jug shaped like a lion. **no. 876 A silver gilt jug shaped like an owl. *Cruises (A type of tankard) *Stoneware jugs *Salt cellars **no. 998 A basin of silver-gilt designed by
Hans Holbein the younger Hans Holbein the Younger ( , ; german: Hans Holbein der Jüngere;  – between 7 October and 29 November 1543) was a German-Swiss painter and printmaker who worked in a Northern Renaissance style, and is considered one of the greatest por ...
for
Anne Boleyn Anne Boleyn (; 1501 or 1507 – 19 May 1536) was Queen of England from 1533 to 1536, as the second wife of King Henry VIII. The circumstances of her marriage and of her execution by beheading for treason and other charges made her a key ...
. Declared unserviceable and sold in 1620. *Basins, fountains, ewers and gilt lairs (a lair was a kind of ewer) *Basins and ewers (parcel-gilt and silver) *
Chafing dish A chafing dish is a metal cooking or serving pan on a stand with an alcohol burner holding chafing fuel below it. It is used for cooking at table, notably in Gueridon service, or as a food warmer for keeping dishes at a buffet warm. Historical ...
es *Trenchers *Knives *'Vessell' (gilt, parcel-gilt and silver) ** Two great gilt laires or water pots. Made by Cornelis Hayes for Henry VIII,
James VI and I James VI and I (James Charles Stuart; 19 June 1566 – 27 March 1625) was King of Scotland as James VI from 24 July 1567 and King of England and Ireland as James I from the union of the Scottish and English crowns on 24 March 1603 until h ...
gave them to
Juan Fernández de Velasco y Tovar, 5th Duke of Frías Juan Fernández de Velasco, 5th Duke of Frías ( – 15 March 1613) was a Spanish nobleman and diplomat. Biography Juan Fernández de Velasco was the son of Íñigo Fernández de Velasco; and of Maria Angela de Aragón y Guzmán El Bueno. He i ...
,
Constable of Castile Constable of Castile ( es, Condestable de Castilla) was a title created by John I, King of Castile in 1382, to substitute the title ''Alférez Mayor del Reino''. The constable was the second person in power in the kingdom, after the King, and hi ...
, in 1604. *Kitchen plate **no. 1305 An instrument of silver to roast puddings and apples. Melted down for coinage in October 1600. *Orange strainers **no. 1314 A strainer for oranges with a long steel writhen pole. **no. 1320 A strainer for oranges of silver and gilt with two crystals in the handle, given by Sir George Howard,
Master of the Armouries The Royal Armouries is the United Kingdom's national collection of arms and armour. Originally an important part of England's military organization, it became the United Kingdom's oldest museum, originally housed in the Tower of London from ...
, in 1573. *Perfume pans **no. 1322 A perfume pan of silver and gilt with pillars of crystal part broken, and a clock plated with gold and enamelled. Melted down in October 1600.


"Sundry parcelles"

*no. 1375 A gunpowder flask taken from the body of James IV at the
Battle of Flodden The Battle of Flodden, Flodden Field, or occasionally Branxton, (Brainston Moor) was a battle fought on 9 September 1513 during the War of the League of Cambrai between the Kingdom of England and the Kingdom of Scotland, resulting in an English ...
.


Plate received on 10 January 1574 from the grooms of the Privy Chamber

*no. 1398 A cup of gold with cover holding an escutcheon given by the townsmen of Sandwich on 31 August 1573.


Accessions in 1575, 1576, 1577

*no. 1429 Thirteen hooks of silver gilt made to fasten hangings in the queen's privy chamber, placed in the keeping of Dorothy Habington, the sister of Edward Habington. *no. 1433 Four gold toothpicks given by Mistress Elizabeth Snowe (died 1587), a gentlewoman in the Privy Chamber. *no. 1440 A cup of agate set with rubies and emeralds given by Thomas Wilson, and delivered to Jewel House from the Privy Chamber by Henry Middlemore, groom of the privy chamber, the father of Mary Middlemore a maid of honour to Anna of Denmark. *no. 1453 A jug of crystal with silver gilt with a phoenix at the top given by Lord Henry Seymour. Anna of Denmark had this jug during her
lying-in Lying-in is the term given to the European forms of postpartum confinement, the traditional practice involving long bed rest before and after giving birth. The term and the practice it describes are old-fashioned or archaic, but it used to be c ...
while pregnant with Princess Sophia.


Additions recorded to 12 August 1594

*no. 1483 Three gilt bowls with covers given by the town of Yarmouth in August 1578. Elizabeth did not visit the town because of an outbreak of plague. *no. 1484 A fair standing bowl with a silver cover decorated with scenes of the story of
Joseph Joseph is a common male given name, derived from the Hebrew Yosef (יוֹסֵף). "Joseph" is used, along with "Josef", mostly in English, French and partially German languages. This spelling is also found as a variant in the languages of the mo ...
given by the members of the Dutch church in
Norwich Norwich () is a cathedral city and district of Norfolk, England, of which it is the county town. Norwich is by the River Wensum, about north-east of London, north of Ipswich and east of Peterborough. As the seat of the Episcopal see, See of ...
on 19 August 1578. *no. 1485 A cup with a cover of silver gilt given by the town of
Thetford Thetford is a market town and civil parish in the Breckland District of Norfolk, England. It is on the A11 road between Norwich and London, just east of Thetford Forest. The civil parish, covering an area of , in 2015 had a population of 24,34 ...
in August 1578. *no. 1515 A basket of silver to use to clear away dining utensils, presented by
Francis Drake Sir Francis Drake ( – 28 January 1596) was an English explorer, sea captain, privateer, slave trader, naval officer, and politician. Drake is best known for his circumnavigation of the world in a single expedition, from 1577 to 1580 (t ...
at a banquet at
Deptford Deptford is an area on the south bank of the River Thames in southeast London, within the London Borough of Lewisham. It is named after a ford of the River Ravensbourne. From the mid 16th century to the late 19th it was home to Deptford D ...
in 1581. *no. 1521 A double porringer and 4 silver boxes with silver gilt covers given by
Blanche Parry Blanche Parry (1507/8–12 February 1590) of Newcourt in the parish of Bacton, Herefordshire, in the Welsh Marches, was a personal attendant of Queen Elizabeth I, who held the offices of Chief Gentlewoman of the Queen's Most Honourable Privy C ...
. *no. 1541 A great standing cup gilt, with a cover, the body garnished with "sundry vermin as snakes ewetes (newts) frogs and others", and laid with colours, the cover garnished with sundry men and beasts hunting with a stag at the top, supplied by Alderman Martin. This cup, probably made in Germany, was admired in the Tower of London by Lupold von Wedel in November 1584. It was a gift at the baptism of Prince Henry in August 1594.


Jewels of Elizabeth I and the inventories

On 21 May 1559 Elizabeth selected a group of jewels from the Tower of London for a celebration with French ambassadors for the
Treaty of Cateau-Cambresis (1559) A treaty is a formal, legally binding written agreement between actors in international law. It is usually made by and between sovereign states, but can include international organizations, individuals, business entities, and other legal pers ...
. These included two diamond-set brooches depicting David And Goliath, one with Goliath's armour composed of diamonds (a diamond-set example held by the
Green Vault The Green Vault (german: Grünes Gewölbe) is a museum located in Dresden, Germany, which contains the largest treasure collection in Europe. The museum was founded in 1723 by Augustus the Strong of Poland and Saxony, and it features a variety of ...
,
Dresden Dresden (, ; Upper Saxon: ''Dräsdn''; wen, label=Upper Sorbian, Drježdźany) is the capital city of the German state of Saxony and its second most populous city, after Leipzig. It is the 12th most populous city of Germany, the fourth lar ...
is later), a jewel depicting several figures with the motto ''In Petra Christi sancta fient foedera'', with chains set with gems and other jewels. It is not clear whether Elizabeth intended these items as gifts or wore them herself, but they were not included among the gifts listed by the Venetian ambassador. Elizabeth took an interest in the making of jewels in London, in 1587 asking
John Spilman Sir John Spilman (also spelt Spielman) (died 1626) was a Lindau, German-born entrepreneur who founded the first commercially successful paper-mill in England, establishing a factory on the River Darenth in Dartford, Kent in 1588.Dartford: Cradle of ...
, her household goldsmith, to employ English and foreign ("stranger") diamond cutters, ruby cutters, agate cutters, clockmakers, goldsmiths, and wire workers. James VI and Anna of Denmark's agents in London bought a sapphire engraved with Elizabeth's portrait in 1599. A lady in waiting, and keeper of her jewellery,
Blanche Parry Blanche Parry (1507/8–12 February 1590) of Newcourt in the parish of Bacton, Herefordshire, in the Welsh Marches, was a personal attendant of Queen Elizabeth I, who held the offices of Chief Gentlewoman of the Queen's Most Honourable Privy C ...
, made an inventory in 1587, now held by the
British Library The British Library is the national library of the United Kingdom and is one of the largest libraries in the world. It is estimated to contain between 170 and 200 million items from many countries. As a legal deposit library, the British ...
, listing 628 pieces, which passed into the custody of Mary Radcliffe. Elizabeth received gifts of jewels from courtiers at New Year, and from diplomats. In January 1585 Catherine Howard, Countess of Nottingham gave her "a jewel of gold being a dolphin fully garnished with sparks of ruby with a personage upon his back having a lute in his hand", a representation of the classical myth of
Arion Arion (; grc-gre, Ἀρίων; fl. c. 700 BC) was a kitharode in ancient Greece, a Dionysiac poet credited with inventing the dithyramb. The islanders of Lesbos claimed him as their native son, but Arion found a patron in Periander, tyrant of ...
. She was also given jewels at country house entertainments staged during her progresses. At the Ryecote Entertainment, the gifts represented the military activities of the sons of Sir Henry Norris. At the
Harefield Entertainment The Harefield Entertainment included hospitality and performances for Elizabeth I of England in August 1602. Several copies of the performance script survive, along with original manuscript accounts of the Queen's host which seems to have been manip ...
in August 1602 Elizabeth was presented with a diamond feather and an anchor. When
Christopher Hatton Sir Christopher Hatton KG (1540 – 20 November 1591) was an English politician, Lord Chancellor of England and a favourite of Elizabeth I of England. He was one of the judges who found Mary, Queen of Scots guilty of treason. Early years Si ...
was unable to join her on a progress, he gave her a jewel featuring a bagpipe, which she wore on her ruff. This was an allusion to shepherds and sheep, Elizabeth's nickname for Hatton was "her mutton", as she herself explained to
Sir Robert Cecil Robert Cecil, 1st Earl of Salisbury, (1 June 156324 May 1612), was an English statesman noted for his direction of the government during the Union of the Crowns, as Tudor England gave way to Stuart rule (1603). Lord Salisbury served as the ...
.


Jewels in the Stowe inventory

The inventory has three sections of jewels, the first group has 77 items kept by Elizabeth's lady in waiting Mary Radcliffe, the second section lists 19 jewels kept by the Countess of Suffolk and transferred to
Thomas Gorges Sir Thomas Gorges (1536 – 30 March 1610) of Longford Castle in Wiltshire, was a courtier and Groom of the Chamber to Queen Elizabeth I. Via his great-grandmother Lady Anne Howard, a daughter of John Howard, 1st Duke of Norfolk, he was a ...
, Master of the Wardrobe, to make the inventory, and the third section lists 32 jewels kept by Mary Radcliffe passed to Gorges. After the inventory was taken by the auditor Francis Gofton, Gorges returned the jewels to Radcliffe on 28 May 1603. The entries have annotations in various hands which help to track the transfer of pieces to Anne of Denmark or their sale after the
Union of the Crowns The Union of the Crowns ( gd, Aonadh nan Crùintean; sco, Union o the Crouns) was the accession of James VI of Scotland to the throne of the Kingdom of England as James I and the practical unification of some functions (such as overseas dipl ...
. Some entries are given below, abridged and with modernised spelling:


Stowe inventory, first section

* Item, small
aglet An aglet ( ) or aiglet is a small sheath, often made of plastic or metal, attached at each end of a shoelace, a cord, or a drawstring. An aglet keeps the fibers of the lace or cord from unraveling; its firmness and narrow profile make it easie ...
s of gold, 46 pairs. Delivered 30 January 1604 to "Mr Robert Jessi". This may be the Scottish goldsmith
Robert Jousie Robert Jousie (or Joussie or Jowsie or Jossie; died 1626) was a Scottish merchant, financier, and courtier. Life Jousie was a cloth merchant based in Edinburgh with a house on the High Street or Royal Mile. He became an exclusive supplier of fab ...
who was connected with King James' wardrobe. * 3A jewel of gold like an Angel, the body mother of pearl, the wings garnished with sparks of diamonds and rubies, and two antiques like horses under it garnished with like sparks of rubies and diamonds. Delivered 30 January 1604.


Stowe inventory, second section

* A jewel of gold like a circle of Pansies, Daisies, and other flowers, garnished with sparks of diamonds and rubies, with a butterfly of mother of pearl and a crab holding the same. * A jewel of gold like a Pelican garnished with diamonds of sundry sorts.


Stowe inventory, third section

* 1A jewel of gold having two hands, one holding a sword, the other a trowel, both garnished with sparks of diamonds, and between the hands a garnishment of opal. This had been a New Year's Day gift in 1587. The device is a well-known
emblem An emblem is an abstract or representational pictorial image that represents a concept, like a moral truth, or an allegory, or a person, like a king or saint. Emblems vs. symbols Although the words ''emblem'' and ''symbol'' are often used i ...
for peace and appears in Geoffrey Whitney's ''Choice of Emblems'' (London, 1586). * 7A jewel of gold like a Daisy and small flowers about it garnished with sparks of diamonds and rubies with her Majesty's picture graven on a garnet, and a sprig of three branches garnished with sparks of rubies, a pearl at the top, and a small pendant of sparks of diamonds. A New Year's day gift in 1593.


Missing jewels in the Folger inventory

The Folger inventory (MS V.b.72) lists 22 jewels known to have been lost from Elizabeth's wardrobe. These include: * A button of gold with five pearls lost from her Majesty's kirtle at a play at Richmond at Christmas 1595 * 0Item, a diamond from a jewel like a heart fully garnished with diamonds, lost by her Majesty 14 February 1596


Elizabeth I and French jewellery

Elizabeth I, like
Mary, Queen of Scots Mary, Queen of Scots (8 December 1542 – 8 February 1587), also known as Mary Stuart or Mary I of Scotland, was Queen of Scotland from 14 December 1542 until her forced abdication in 1567. The only surviving legitimate child of James V of Scot ...
bought jewellery in Paris. The diplomat
Nicholas Throckmorton Sir Nicholas Throckmorton (or Throgmorton) (c. 1515/151612 February 1571) was an English diplomat and politician, who was an ambassador to France and later Scotland, and played a key role in the relationship between Elizabeth I of Englan ...
sent her a list of questions about prospective purchases in 1562, which give useful information about jewels worn in the 1560s and contemporary attitudes to purchasing and material literacy. Throckmorton discussed the borders and "billements" worn with hoods, noting that the length of a French style billement was different to those worn in England. There could be girdles and necklace chains in matching sets with the billements and borders. Some items were destined as gifts, and Throckmorton contrasted the cost of making, the "fashioning", with the weight of precious metal. Simple forms made by casting were much cheaper. * How many borders, upper and nether, shall be bought? * What number shall be engraved and "sicelled" which is the most costly fashion, and how many cast in the mold and wrought slightly which will be better cheap? * Whether all the borders shall be enamelled, or some not? * To know the length of the said borders, because the fashion is different here to there in the length of the "billements" * Whether to every border there shall be a chain for the neck, and a girdle with a pendant and a vase, or at least to know how many chains and girdles with vases shall be provided. * How many chains shall be provided for men, to be given in reward, and of what value, which ought rather to be of more show than fashion, because the fashion, if it be costly will eat up the weight? * How many pomanders (as you term them) called here ''pommes'' of gold shall be provided, and whether there shall be any sweet paste put in them? * Whether any bracelets shall be provided, and how many pairs? * How many carcanets shall be provided? These jewels and gold chains may have been intended as gifts at the "interview", the meeting between Mary, Queen of Scots, and Elizabeth in England which never took place. William Cecil had written to Throckmorton in May 1561 (before Mary had returned to Scotland), asking him to find a goldsmith in Paris to bring or send items for Elizabeth and her ladies to "be gay in this Court towards the progress". Cecil suggests the jewellery purchase might be connected to a visit by Elizabeth's suitor,
Eric XIV of Sweden Eric XIV ( sv, Erik XIV; 13 December 153326 February 1577) was King of Sweden from 1560 until he was deposed in 1569. Eric XIV was the eldest son of Gustav I (1496–1560) and Catherine of Saxe-Lauenburg (1513–1535). He was also ruler of Est ...
. Anything unsold in England would be custom free. One French piece listed in the queen's inventory was "a chain of Paris work being white and tawny "bugle" slightly garnished with gold".


Elizabeth's jewels after her death

Elizabeth had a quantity of old jewels from the Tower of London appraised for sale in October 1600 by the goldsmiths
Hugh Kayle Hugh Kayle or Keale or Keall (died by 1598) was a London goldsmith who served Elizabeth I. He was a son of John Keale, also a goldsmith. Hugh Kayle was a churchwarden of St Mary Woolnoth in 1574 and 1575. Kayle marked silverware supplied to the ...
,
John Spilman Sir John Spilman (also spelt Spielman) (died 1626) was a Lindau, German-born entrepreneur who founded the first commercially successful paper-mill in England, establishing a factory on the River Darenth in Dartford, Kent in 1588.Dartford: Cradle of ...
, and Leonard Bushe. The consignment included a number of unmounted precious stones and counterfeit imitations including "Dutch agates", gold rings and buttons set with stones and cameos, pearls, gold chains, beads, billements for headdresses, seven clocks, and scrap "broken" gold and silver. Some of the pearls had been sewn on a gown of Elizabeth, or perhaps a gown of
Mary I of England Mary I (18 February 1516 – 17 November 1558), also known as Mary Tudor, and as "Bloody Mary" by her Protestant opponents, was Queen of England and Ireland from July 1553 and Queen of Spain from January 1556 until her death in 1558. Sh ...
. The goldsmiths William Herrick and
John Spilman Sir John Spilman (also spelt Spielman) (died 1626) was a Lindau, German-born entrepreneur who founded the first commercially successful paper-mill in England, establishing a factory on the River Darenth in Dartford, Kent in 1588.Dartford: Cradle of ...
reset a number of Elizabeth's gems on a gold circlet or coronet which Anne of Denmark wore to her English coronation on 25 July 1603. On 12 January 1604 Herrick and Spilman were asked to assess and make an inventory of jewels that had belonged to Queen Elizabeth. King James had already given many pieces to the queen, Princess Elizabeth, and
Arbella Stuart Lady Arbella Stuart (also Arabella, or Stewart; 1575 – 25 September 1615) was an English noblewoman who was considered a possible successor to Queen Elizabeth I of England. During the reign of King James VI and I (her first cousin), she marrie ...
and others. Some of the remaining jewels had been transferred from the keeping of Mary Radcliffe to the Countess of Suffolk. Several pieces were sold or exchanged with the goldsmith and financier
Peter Vanlore Sir Peter Vanlore (c. 1547 – 6 September 1627) was a Dutch-born English merchant, jeweller and moneylender in Elizabethan and Stuart England. Biography He was born circa 1547 in Utrecht, Netherlands, the third son of Maurits van Loor a ...
. A list of jewels in the possession of Anne of Denmark in 1606 was published by Diana Scarisbrick, and includes several items formerly in Elizabeth's collection. In December 1607, King James retrieved some of Elizabeth's jewels from the Jewel House and sent them to William Herrick and
John Spilman Sir John Spilman (also spelt Spielman) (died 1626) was a Lindau, German-born entrepreneur who founded the first commercially successful paper-mill in England, establishing a factory on the River Darenth in Dartford, Kent in 1588.Dartford: Cradle of ...
to be refurbished. He gave his wife
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 – 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I; as such, she was Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and Queen of England and Ireland from the union of the Scottish and Engl ...
a cup made of unicorn's horn with a gold cover (believed to guard against poison) set with diamonds and pearls, a gold jug or ewer, a salt with a branch set with sapphires and serpent's tongues (really fossilized
shark teeth Sharks continually shed their teeth; some Carcharhiniformes shed approximately 35,000 teeth in a lifetime, replacing those that fall out. There are four basic types of shark teeth: dense flattened, needle-like, pointed lower with triangular upp ...
, also a safeguard against poisoning), and a crystal chess board with topaz and crystal pieces.Frederick Devon, ''Issues of the Exchequer During the Reign of James I'' (London, 1836), pp. 305-6. Later in the reign of James other lists of jewels were made, including those annexed to the crown in 1606, and those sent to Spain in 1623 at the time of the
Spanish Match The Spanish match was a proposed marriage between Prince Charles, the son of King James I of Great Britain, and Infanta Maria Anna of Spain, the daughter of Philip III of Spain. Negotiations took place over the period 1614 to 1623, and during th ...
. These were printed in Thomas Rymer's ''Foedera''.


References


Bibliography

*


External links


British Library, Stowe MS 555, inventory of jewels and other goods of Queen Elizabeth I, 1574-1594

The Folger inventory (MS V.b.72): Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Uploaded, searchable transcript

The Stowe inventory, text from John Nichols, ''The Progresses and Public Processions of Queen Elizabeth'', vol. 3 (London, 1823), Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Uploaded
{{DEFAULTSORT:Inventory Of Elizabeth I 16th century in England 1574 in England Harleian Collection 16th-century documents Crown jewels Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom National symbols of the United Kingdom Tower of London Material culture of royal courts