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The Isel () is a glacier-fed river in
East Tyrol East Tyrol, occasionally East Tirol (german: Osttirol), is an exclave of the Austrian state of Tyrol, separated from the main North Tyrol part by the short common border of Salzburg and Italian South Tyrol (''Südtirol'', it, Alto Adige). It i ...
, Austria. The river flow varies with daily and seasonal temperature changes, and the riverbed is constantly shifting, creating a unique environment. The river's course runs along a geological fault running from NW to SE. It held a glacier during the last ice age, which has left boulders and gravel along the valley. There have been various proposals to dam and divert the water for use in generating
hydroelectricity Hydroelectricity, or hydroelectric power, is Electricity generation, electricity generated from hydropower (water power). Hydropower supplies one sixth of the world's electricity, almost 4500 TWh in 2020, which is more than all other Renewabl ...
which have been opposed by environmentalists. Since 2015 the river has been designated a
Natura 2000 Natura 2000 is a network of nature protection areas in the territory of the European Union. It is made up of Special Areas of Conservation and Special Protection Areas designated under the Habitats Directive and the Birds Directive, respectively ...
site, which offers some protection. There is a hiking trail along the river, and it is known for excellent whitewater rafting conditions.


Course

The Isel river flows from the Umbalkees glacier in the
Hohe Tauern National Park The High Tauern ( pl.; german: Hohe Tauern, it, Alti Tauri) are a mountain range on the main chain of the Central Eastern Alps, comprising the highest peaks east of the Brenner Pass. The crest forms the southern border of the Austrian states of ...
near the summit of Rötspitze mountain. It is a tributary of the
Drava The Drava or Drave''Utrata Fachwörterbuch ...
(Drau). The catchment areas of the Isel and Drava together cover almost all of East Tyrol. The catchment area of the Isel is about . At the estuary where the Isel enters the Drau the mean water flow is about . A flood event of about is expected to occur once in 100 years. The Isel flows through a deeply incised valley with several gorges (''Iselschlucht'') in which it has created several waterfalls. At present there are no dams or diversions along its course. The Tauernbach tributary joins the Isel at Matrei. Other important tributaries are the Schwarzach and the Kalserbach. Below Matrei the valley widens along the lower stretch to where the river meets the Drau at
Lienz Lienz (; Southern Bavarian: ''Lianz'') is a medieval town in the Austrian state of Tyrol. It is the administrative centre of the Lienz district, which covers all of East Tyrol. The municipality also includes the cadastral subdivision of ''Pat ...
. The river banks flood daily and seasonally, and the riverbed constantly shifts. This provides a unique environment for endangered plants such as the German tamarisk ('' Myricaria germanica''). There are eight artificially widened basins in the Isel valley, designed to contain the
bed load The term bed load or bedload describes particles in a flowing fluid (usually water) that are transported along the stream bed. Bed load is complementary to suspended load and wash load. Bed load moves by rolling, sliding, and/or saltating (hopp ...
, which reduce the risk of flooding. These require regular maintenance, which must be adapted to conform with the Natura 2000 designation.


Geology

The Isel fault trends NW-SE and runs along the Isel Valley. It is related to the lateral extrusion about 17 million years ago that exposed the
Hohe Tauern window The Hohe Tauern window is a geological structure in the Austrian Central Eastern Alps. It is a window (in German ''fenster'') in the Austroalpine nappes where high-grade metamorphic rocks of the underlying Penninic nappes crop out. The structu ...
. The Isel fault cuts the E-W trending Defereggen–Anthois–
Vals Vals is the word for waltz in many European languages. Vals or VALS may also refer to: * Peruvian waltz * Venezuelan waltz * Vals (dance), a dance related to Argentine tango * VALS, "Values And Lifestyles," a psychographic segmentation tool Place ...
fault. There are
Quaternary The Quaternary ( ) is the current and most recent of the three periods of the Cenozoic Era in the geologic time scale of the International Commission on Stratigraphy (ICS). It follows the Neogene Period and spans from 2.58 million years ...
sediments in the Isel Valley, mostly
till image:Geschiebemergel.JPG, Closeup of glacial till. Note that the larger grains (pebbles and gravel) in the till are completely surrounded by the matrix of finer material (silt and sand), and this characteristic, known as ''matrix support'', is d ...
from the
Last Glacial Maximum The Last Glacial Maximum (LGM), also referred to as the Late Glacial Maximum, was the most recent time during the Last Glacial Period that ice sheets were at their greatest extent. Ice sheets covered much of Northern North America, Northern Eur ...
(LGM) between 23,000 and 19,000 years ago. At that time the valley was filled with an ice stream with its surface about above sea level. The valley from elevations of about down to the valley floor near the Daberbach and Gossenbach tributaries at often holds coarse-grained, poorly sorted and unconsolidated gravel. These deposits seem to be kame terraces formed by streams of meltwater as the ice stream collapsed after the LGM. By 18,000 years ago the lower Isel valley at
Ainet Ainet is a municipality in the district of Lienz in the Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine ...
was probably free of ice. A series of
terminal moraine A terminal moraine, also called end moraine, is a type of moraine that forms at the terminal (edge) of a glacier, marking its maximum advance. At this point, debris that has accumulated by plucking and abrasion, has been pushed by the front edge ...
s were left as the local glaciers retreated during the
Late Glacial Interstadial The Late Glacial Interstadial (LGI) c. 14,670 to c. 12,890 BP, also called the Bølling–Allerød interstadial, represents the first ''pronounced'' warming since the end of the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM). Human populations, which had previousl ...
.


Conservation struggle

Planning began in 1971 to create a large reservoir in East Tirol for hydroelectric power generation. All the glacier streams of the region would be diverted into the reservoir. Wolfgang Retter founded the "Association for the Protection of the Recreational Landscape in East Tirol" to fight the plan. The power plant project was cancelled in 1989. In 1998 the Austrian Ministry of Agriculture and Environment and WWF Austria designated the most valuable 74 rivers in Austria as "river sanctuaries". The Ministry and WWF jointly committed to protect the rivers. On 25 February 2011 a joint meeting of the local councils of
Virgen Virgen is a municipality in the district of Lienz in the Austrian state of Tyrol. It includes part of the Virgen valley in the Venediger Group mountain range, and extensive parts of the municipality are in High Tauern National Park. The history ...
and Prägraten saw a presentation by the Innsbruck company "Infra Project Development GmbH". The company proposed to dam the upper Isel above Hinterbichl in Prägraten and then lead it through a tunnel to a power house in Unterpellach in Mitteldorf / Virgen. The municipalities would pay an estimated seven million euros for construction, then would receive 400,000 euros revenue each year. The meeting was supposed to be private, but details leaked out almost immediately. In November 2011 the municipal council in Matrei was shown a proposal to build a hydropower plant in Huben using water diverted from the Isel, with estimated cost of 55 million euros. In June 2012 a referendum was held in the Virgental asking "Should the community participate in the planning, construction and operation of an environmentally friendly power plant on the upper Isel?". Voter turnout was high, with 73.9% in Virgen and 79.4% in Prägraten. About 60% or respondents answered "yes" in Prägraten and 72% answered "yes" in Virgen. In September 2012 WWF declared that the Isel was a "National River sanctuary" due to renewed concerns about plans for large power plants in the Isel basin. The proposed project in Virgental would affect of the river and generate 130 GWH of electricity. In June 2015 the Tyrolean provincial government decided to nominate almost the entire Isel and almost all its tributaries as a Natura 2000 area. This would cover the entire course of the river from the Umbal Falls to the Lienz city limits, and the upper reaches of the Schwarzach and the Kalser Bach. The Natura 2000 zoning would apply to the river only. It would not include cycle paths, roads and sports fields, and landowners would not be displaced. It was not clear that a power plant would be ruled out as long as the habitat was preserved.


Rafting

The river provides good conditions for rafting, with class III and IV rapids. The best conditions are between May and September. The
Dolomitenmann The Dolomitenmann is an extreme sports relay race held in September in the East Tyrolean, or so-called Dolomite Mountains of Austria, near the city of Lienz. The founder and organiser is Werner Grissmann, a former World Cup skier. The Dolomi ...
extreme sports relay race includes a difficult white water section on the Isel.


Trail

In 2020 the Isel Trail was opened to the public, leading from the town of
Lienz Lienz (; Southern Bavarian: ''Lianz'') is a medieval town in the Austrian state of Tyrol. It is the administrative centre of the Lienz district, which covers all of East Tyrol. The municipality also includes the cadastral subdivision of ''Pat ...
up the Isel valley to the Umbalkees glacier. The upper part of the trail crosses wide alpine grasslands below the Umbalkees ice front, from which the Isel emerges to start its journey down to the Drava. The Upper Umbal Falls, where large volumes of water plunge over a series of steps, are visible at a distance from the trail. The Lower Umbal Falls were opened for visitors in 1976, and have platforms that let visitors view them from close up. The river bed here is smooth rock with washed-out hollows carved by the force of the water. There is another waterfall near Ströden, visible from the bridge. Near Hinterbichl / Ströden the Glo Gorge is a crevice with almost vertical sides through which the Isel plunges down two large steps throwing huge amounts of spray into the air, often creating a rainbow in late afternoon. Between Welzelach and Bobojach there is a large gorge with a series of cataracts running between steep cliffs. Some of the trees in the canyon are several centuries old. There is a deep gorge below Virgen, with the lowest of the large waterfalls, a series of steps several meters high. The steep sides of the gorge hold relatively undisturbed forest with trees of all ages. Near Feld the Isel valley narrows and the river is fast-moving and turbulent, running between wide banks of gravel. The cataracts here move large boulders downstream. The Daberer Waterfall is near the mountain village of
Schlaiten Schlaiten is a municipality in the district of Lienz in the Austrian state of Tyrol Tyrol (; historically the Tyrole; de-AT, Tirol ; it, Tirolo) is a historical region in the Alps - in Northern Italy and western Austria. The area was hist ...
surrounded by old trees, moss and rich undergrowth. At times of high water flow the waterfall creates a fine mist. On the slower-moving lower Isel between Huben and
Lienz Lienz (; Southern Bavarian: ''Lianz'') is a medieval town in the Austrian state of Tyrol. It is the administrative centre of the Lienz district, which covers all of East Tyrol. The municipality also includes the cadastral subdivision of ''Pat ...
there are islands populated by tamarisk, with pinkish-white flowers from May to August.


Notes


Sources

* * * * * * * * * * * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Isel Drava