Ihwa Mural Village
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Ihwa Mural Village ( ko, 이화 벽화마을), is an area of
Ihwa-dong, Seoul Ihwa-dong is a '' dong'', neighbourhood of Jongno-gu in Seoul, South Korea South Korea, officially the Republic of Korea (ROK), is a country in East Asia, constituting the southern part of the Korea, Korean Peninsula and sharing a Korean ...
near Naksan Park that was revitalized by the
Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism South Korea's Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism (MCST) is a central government agency responsible for the areas of tourism, culture, art, religion, and sports. It has two vice ministers, three assistant ministers, one commission, and ...
's public art "Ihwa-dong Naksan Project" in 2006, with paintings and installation art of about 70 artists. It is a popular destination for both locals and international tourists for its
mural A mural is any piece of graphic artwork that is painted or applied directly to a wall, ceiling or other permanent substrate. Mural techniques include fresco, mosaic, graffiti and marouflage. Word mural in art The word ''mural'' is a Spani ...
s and scenic setting.


History and environs

''Ihwa Mural Village'' is located between Hyehwa Station and Dongdaemun Station, just below Naksan Park. In 2006, when the public art project started, Ihwa-dong, one of Seoul's oldest neighbourhoods, was a decaying suburb designated for demolition, and home to mostly poor families and elderly people. The government's Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism "Art in the City" campaign set about to improve conditions in some of these areas, and included the Ihwa-dong Naksan Project in Iwha-dong and
Dongsung-dong Dongsung-dong is a '' dong'', neighbourhood of Jongno-gu in Seoul, South Korea. It is a legal dong (''beopjeong-dong'' 법정동 ) administered under its administrative dong (''haengjeong-dong'' 행정동 ), Ihwa-dong. Notable places * The Kore ...
near Daehangno in central Seoul. Ihwa-dong is adjacent to
Changgyeonggung Palace Changgyeong Palace is a palace located in Seoul, South Korea. The palace was built in the mid-15th century by King Sejong for his father, Taejong. It was originally named "Suganggung", but it was renovated and enlarged in 1483 by King Seongjo ...
on the slopes of Mount Naksan. Jongno-gu's mural village sits at the foot of Naksan Park and is called "Ihwa village" or "Ihwa mural village". Ihwa-dong and Dongsung-dong were culturally isolated towns despite their location near the busy college area of Daehangno, and the historic neighborhood of
Dongdaemun Heunginjimun, literally "Gate of Rising Benevolence" or more commonly known as Dongdaemun, is one of The Eight Gates of Seoul in the Fortress Wall of Seoul, a prominent landmark in central Seoul, South Korea. The Korean name "Dongdaemun" means "Gr ...
with its many tourist activities. Ihwa-dong was one of South Korea's many daldongnae or 'moon villages', a name derived from their hilltop locations, traditionally thought to offer a better view of the moon than the cities below. They were inhabited by mostly working class and poor people who couldn't afford housing in flat or central parts of the city. The mural village sat against the old boundary walls of the capital and was a place where refugees
squatted Squatting is the action of occupying an abandoned or unoccupied area of land or a building, usually residential, that the squatter does not own, rent or otherwise have lawful permission to use. The United Nations estimated in 2003 that there ...
after the end of the
Korean War , date = {{Ubl, 25 June 1950 – 27 July 1953 (''de facto'')({{Age in years, months, weeks and days, month1=6, day1=25, year1=1950, month2=7, day2=27, year2=1953), 25 June 1950 – present (''de jure'')({{Age in years, months, weeks a ...
in the 1950s, building homes wherever they could. Many residents worked in the nearby garment and textile industries in
Changsin-dong Changsin-dong is a '' dong'', neighbourhood of Jongno-gu in Seoul, South Korea. Attractions * Changsin-dong Toy Wholesale Market - the largest toy and stationery market in Korea since 1975 and is accessible from Dongdaemun Station on Seoul Subwa ...
making items sold at Dongdaemun Market. But, as other neighborhoods prospered in the 80's and 90's, with high-rise apartment towers, and the redevelopment of early 2000, residents started moving away, draining the neighborhood's vitality.


Artwork


Project beginnings

The village was part of the history of street paintings in South Korea, with locals and visiting artists carrying out similar projects around the country. In the mural village, buildings and surroundings became part of the art; flowerpots, telephone poles, stone fences, stairs and even "the crack on a wall has been transformed into a wrinkle on a smiling woman’s face". The 2006 project took about six months, with citizens and college students, including nearby
Hansung University Hansung University is a university in Seoul, South Korea. It was founded on December 21, 1972. The Design Campus is located in Jongno-gu, Seoul. Timeline 1945–1989 *Sep. 25, 1945 Acquired Kyungsung Girl's Art School *Oct. 5, 1945 Foun ...
students recruited to volunteer. About 70 artists participated with the paintings and installation art that covered the walls, streets, homes, businesses, underpasses and schools. One of the artworks was a wall of the neighborhood police station which was painted with white eagles and Korea's national flower, the Rose of Sharon; others were a house with the image of Mount Naksan, the painting of a rabbit, the wings of an angel, and a flower staircase. Over the years, the art had a continued evolution of additions and changes.


Naksan Park artwork

The region at the foot of Naksan Park is a preamble to the mural village with its steel art structures. The park was established in 2002 to increase green areas in the region and restore the historical site, as much of the mountain area was destroyed during the Japanese colonial era and again during re-development projects of the 1960s. It is one of the most popular photo spots, and sculptures include a gentleman and dog walking towards the sky and a couple holding hands and looking at each other.


Popularity problems, art removed and re-added

The 2006 art project brought people back, and a sense of community with art collectives and communal gardens. But the influx of tourists and their littering, noise and graffiti made long-term residents of the neighborhood wonder if the changes were for the better. About a year after the project began, they requested the removal of many of the murals, amounting to almost half the original art. In 2010, the
KBS2 The Korean Broadcasting System (KBS) () is the national broadcaster of South Korea. Founded in February 1927, it is one of the leading South Korean television and radio broadcasters. KBS operates seven radio networks, ten television channels, a ...
entertainment show ''
2 Days & 1 Night ''2 Days & 1 Night'' (; also known as ''1 Night 2 Days''; abbreviated as ''1N2D'') is a South Korean reality-variety show that airs every Sunday at 6:25pm KST on KBS2 beginning August 5, 2007. ''1 Night 2 Days'' used to be one of the two segm ...
'' with Lee Seung-gi was filmed in the village and made a "wing mural" with two white angel wings so popular among tourists that the resident removed the artwork. Later, more wing murals were painted elsewhere. In 2012, it was used by the SBS drama ''
Rooftop Prince ''Rooftop Prince'' () is a 2012 South Korean fantasy romantic comedy television drama, starring Park Yoo-chun, Han Ji-min, Jeong Yu-mi, Lee Tae-sung, Lee Tae-ri, Jung Suk-won, and Choi Woo-shik. It is about a Joseon crown prince who, after his ...
'' as a filming location, where Lee Gak (
Park Yoo-chun Park Yoo-chun (born June 4, 1986), formerly known as Micky Yoochun and better known by the mononym Yoochun, is a South Korean singer-songwriter and actor. He is a former member of the South Korean boy bands JYJ and TVXQ. He has starred in drama ...
) had a date with Park-ha (
Han Ji-min Han Ji-min (born November 5, 1982) is a South Korean actress. After minor roles in '' All In'' and ''Dae Jang Geum'', Han had her breakout role in revenge series ''Resurrection'' in 2005. This was followed by leading roles in period dramas ''Capi ...
), which became a stop on the typical Korean Wave tour course. In 2013, Jongno-gu's tourism division started the "Silent Campaign", "to help visitors understand that the (mural) village is also someone’s home", said staffer Lee Sun-min. Lim Young-suk, one of the artists involved in both the 2006 and 2013 projects, said the connection forged between art, the residents and visitors is at the heart of the village, "You come up, and you’re in a village where everybody knows everybody, and then you go down and you’re in the city. Up here, everybody enjoys life together." Also, in 2013, artists united again and added another 60 displays, which brought the total number of works to more than a hundred. Professional artists, and students from Kookmin University,
Konkuk University Konkuk University () is a South Korean private university founded in 1946. The university was founded based on three virtues: sincerity, fidelity, and righteousness. Konkuk University gives comprehensive education in agricultural and life scien ...
, Chung-Ang University, Dankook University and
Ewha Womans University Ewha Womans University () is a private women's university in Seoul founded in 1886 by Mary F. Scranton under Emperor Gojong. It was the first university founded in South Korea. Currently, Ewha is one of the world's largest female educational ins ...
made contributions. By 2015 it had become even more popular with locals and a tourist destination for international travelers, with a continued tourism spike that year. The influx of visitors to the village continued to create problems for local residents, including a loss of privacy. In April 2016, this resulted in the removal of more artwork by residents. The most popular mural in the village, called 'flower staircase', which had been renovated in 2013 with colored irregular tiles, was painted over with grey paint, along with another mural 'fish staircase'. Efforts were being made by government and locals to build a better relationship between residents and visitors. Local artists addressed the issue by taking more care to integrate residents into projects, By 2016, there were about 100 nationwide areas where murals had been created, and ten mural villages in Seoul.


References


External links

Murals in South Korea Tourist attractions in Seoul Neighbourhoods of Jongno-gu {{coord, 37.5777474, N, 127.0046849, E, source:wikidata, display=title