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Hoda Katebi ( fa, هدی کاتبی) is an American writer and activist whose work focuses on garment workers' rights, labor in fashion supply chains,
Muslim Muslims ( ar, المسلمون, , ) are people who adhere to Islam, a monotheistic religion belonging to the Abrahamic tradition. They consider the Quran, the foundational religious text of Islam, to be the verbatim word of the God of Abrah ...
identity, politics and clothing in Iran, and fighting surveillance programs and militarism. She is the founder of Blue Tin Production, the first apparel manufacturing worker co-operative in the United States entirely run by working-class women of color.


Early life

Katebi was born and raised in
Oklahoma Oklahoma (; Choctaw language, Choctaw: ; chr, ᎣᎧᎳᎰᎹ, ''Okalahoma'' ) is a U.S. state, state in the South Central United States, South Central region of the United States, bordered by Texas on the south and west, Kansas on the nor ...
by her Iranian immigrant parents. She has discussed the challenges she faced wearing a
hijab In modern usage, hijab ( ar, حجاب, translit=ḥijāb, ) generally refers to headcoverings worn by Muslim women. Many Muslims believe it is obligatory for every female Muslim who has reached the age of puberty to wear a head covering. While ...
to her Oklahoma school when classmates would assault her and try to take off her scarf. In 2016, she graduated from the University of Chicago with a degree in Near Eastern Languages and Civilizations.


Politics and writing

Katebi began her writing career in 2013 by publishing essays and fashion critiques on her own platform called JooJoo Azad, meaning "free bird" in Persian. Katebi's early writing discussed
Muslim Muslims ( ar, المسلمون, , ) are people who adhere to Islam, a monotheistic religion belonging to the Abrahamic tradition. They consider the Quran, the foundational religious text of Islam, to be the verbatim word of the God of Abrah ...
identity, politics and fashion, garment workers, fashion in Iran, and racial politics in the United States. Katebi maintained a "Boycott List" of fashion companies engaged in human rights violations. Katebi is the author of a photography book entitled ''Tehran Streetstyle'' (2016). She has published essays in
Vogue.com ''Vogue'' is an American monthly Fashion journalism, fashion and lifestyle magazine that covers many topics, including haute couture fashion, beauty, culture, living, and Fashion show#Catwalk, runway. Based at One World Trade Center in the FiDi ...
, Washington Post, Columbia Journalism Review and others. Katebi is a contributing author to ''I Refuse to Condemn: Resisting racism in times of national security'', published in 2020 by
Manchester University Press Manchester University Press is the university press of the University of Manchester, England and a publisher of academic books and journals. Manchester University Press has developed into an international publisher. It maintains its links with th ...
. In October 2016, Katebi was arrested for protesting the annual Illinois Tactical Officers Association Conference and Weapons Expo. She has been a vocal activist against
police militarization The police are a constituted body of persons empowered by a state, with the aim to enforce the law, to ensure the safety, health and possessions of citizens, and to prevent crime and civil disorder. Their lawful powers include arrest and ...
and surveillance programs such as Countering Violent Extremism (CVE) and has conducted trainings on the War on Terror and anti-Muslim racism around the world. Katebi identifies as an abolitionist. In February 2018, Katebi was interviewed on WGN about her book, ''Tehran Streetstyle'', and fashion in Iran. When the discussion turned to the question of America's military presence in the Middle East and Iran's supposed
nuclear weapons A nuclear weapon is an explosive device that derives its destructive force from nuclear reactions, either fission (fission bomb) or a combination of fission and fusion reactions (thermonuclear bomb), producing a nuclear explosion. Both bomb ...
, the interviewer suggested that Katebi's criticism of American imperialism did not "sound like an American." Katebi defended herself by saying "that's because I've read."


Global book club #BecauseWeveRead

Since its creation after the WGN interview, Katebi's radical book club #BecauseWeveRead has launched chapters around the world that host discussion sessions and mobilize communities in various social justice efforts. Katebi says the book club is working toward "doing what our institutions have systematically failed to do: educate us on reality." Topics covered through the readings include anti-Blackness,
Orientalism In art history, literature and cultural studies, Orientalism is the imitation or depiction of aspects in the Eastern world. These depictions are usually done by writers, designers, and artists from the Western world. In particular, Orientalist p ...
, and capitalism, among other issues. #BecauseWeveRead also has launched 'Emergency Reads' on urgent, unfolding issues such as the
Sudanese revolution The Sudanese Revolution was a major shift of political power in Sudan that started with street protests throughout Sudan on 19 December 2018 and continued with sustained civil disobedience for about eight months, during which the 2019 Sudane ...
in January 2019 or the Indian communications blackout and military escalation on
Kashmir Kashmir () is the northernmost geographical region of the Indian subcontinent. Until the mid-19th century, the term "Kashmir" denoted only the Kashmir Valley between the Great Himalayas and the Pir Panjal Range. Today, the term encompas ...
in October 2019. #Global book club #BecauseWeveRead chapters have organized community events, prison book drives, poetry slams, protests, and other events on topics related to readings. Katebi works with publishers to provide free ebooks of each reading, and ends each unit with a global conversation on YouTube Live with different guests. Past guests have included Naomi Klein and Arundhati Roy. Katebi's #BecauseWeveRead has been featured in media outlets including ''
Dazed Magazine ''Dazed'' (''Dazed & Confused'' until February 2014) is a bi-monthly British style magazine founded in 1991. It covers music, fashion, film, art, and literature. Dazed is published by Dazed Media, an independent media group known for producing ...
'' and ''
Refinery29 Refinery29 (R29) is an American multinational digital media and entertainment website focused on young women. It is owned by Vice Media. History Justin Stefano, Philippe von Borries, Piera Gelardi, and Christene Barberich co-founded Refinery29 i ...
.''


Clothing co-operative and garment labor activism


Blue Tin Production

Katebi supports ethical fashion and advocates for the abolition of
fast fashion Fast fashion is a term used to describe the clothing industry's business model of replicating recent catwalk trends and High fashion, high-fashion designs, mass production, mass-producing them at a low cost, and bringing them to retail stores qui ...
. She argues that fast fashion subjects garment workers to "systemic gender-based violence" including sexual and verbal abuse by their employers as well as dangerous working conditions in sweatshops. In early 2019, Katebi launched a clothing co-operative, Blue Tin Production, which is run by
refugee A refugee, conventionally speaking, is a displaced person who has crossed national borders and who cannot or is unwilling to return home due to well-founded fear of persecution.
and immigrant women and promotes ethical garment production and is the first of its kind in the United States. In an interview with Vogue, Katebi stated "her overall goal is to offer designers in the U.S.—and abroad—a no-brainer alternative to sweatshops with "radical transparent production." In December 2019 Blue Tin Production published its first annual report. Katebi's activism and Blue Tin Production has garnered attention from international fashion and journalism outlets, including ''Vogue'', ''The Chicago Tribune'', ''The'' ''New York Times'', ''The Guardian'', and ''Medium''.


'Revolution-Washing'

In 2017 Katebi coined the term 'Revolution Washing' which has since been used to describe the ways in which fast-fashion brands attempt to brand themselves as progressive to appeal to conscious consumers while using sweatshop labor. In August 2019 Katebi went on a delegation to Indonesia to meet with garment workers working in Nike, H&M, GAP, and other fast-fashion sweatshops.


Acknowledgements and awards

* The Pioneer Award given by the Chicago Foundation for Women * 20 In Their 20s by Crain's magazine *Leaders for a New Chicago given by the Field Foundation *40 under 40 honored by the National Iranian-American Council


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Katebi, Hoda Writers from Chicago American women bloggers American bloggers Iranian emigrants to the United States American writers of Iranian descent American fashion businesspeople Writers from Oklahoma 21st-century American women