Gasherbrum I ( ur, ; ),
surveyed
Surveying or land surveying is the technique, profession, art, and science of determining the land, terrestrial Two-dimensional space#In geometry, two-dimensional or Three-dimensional space#In Euclidean geometry, three-dimensional positions of ...
as K5 and also known as Hidden Peak, is the
11th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is located in
Shigar District
Shigar District ( ur, ) is one of the 14 districts of Pakistani territory of Gilgit-Baltistan. The district is bounded on the north by the Nagar District, the Hunza District, and the Kashgar Prefecture of China's Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Reg ...
in the
Gilgit–Baltistan
Gilgit-Baltistan (; ), formerly known as the Northern Areas, is a region administered by Pakistan as an administrative territory, and constituting the northern portion of the larger Kashmir region which has been the subject of a dispute bet ...
region of
Pakistan
Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 243 million people, and has the world's second-lar ...
. Gasherbrum I is part of the
Gasherbrum Massif, located in the
Karakoram region of the
Himalaya
The Himalayas, or Himalaya (; ; ), is a mountain range in Asia, separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. The range has some of the planet's highest peaks, including the very highest, Mount Everest. Over 100 ...
. Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak
Gasherbrum IV
Gasherbrum IV ( ur, گاشر برم -4; ), surveyed as K3, is the 17th highest mountain on Earth and the 6th highest in Pakistan. It is one of the peaks in the Gasherbrum massif.
The Gasherbrums are a remote group of peaks located at the nort ...
; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in
Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."
Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the
Karakoram) by
T.G. Montgomerie in 1856 when he first spotted the peaks of the Karakoram from more than 200 km away during the
Great Trigonometric Survey of India. In 1892,
William Martin Conway
William Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington (12 April 1856 – 19 April 1937), known between 1895 and 1931 as Sir Martin Conway, was an English art critic, politician, cartographer and mountaineer, who made expeditions in Europe as wel ...
provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness.
Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958, by
Pete Schoening
Peter Kittilsby Schoening (July 30, 1927 – September 22, 2004) was an American mountaineer. Schoening and Andrew Kauffman was two Americans to first successfully climb the Pakistani peak Gasherbrum I in 1958, and was one of the first to summit M ...
and Andy Kauffman of an eight-man
American
American(s) may refer to:
* American, something of, from, or related to the United States of America, commonly known as the "United States" or "America"
** Americans, citizens and nationals of the United States of America
** American ancestry, pe ...
expedition led by
Nicholas B. Clinch, Richard K. Irvin, Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack, Bob Swift and Gil Roberts were also members of the team.
Timeline
* 1934 - A large international expedition, organized by the Swiss
G.O. Dyhrenfurth, explores Gasherbrum I and II. Two climbers get to .
[
* 1936 - A French expedition gets to .
* 1958 - An American team led by ]Nicholas Clinch
Nicholas Bayard Clinch III (9 November 1930, Evanston, Illinois - 15 June 2016, California) was an American mountain climber, lawyer, author and environmentalist. Clinch Peak, in Antarctica, was named for him in 2006.
Education and personal life
T ...
including two Pakistani army officers captain Mohammad Akram and captain S.T.H Rizvi makes the first ascent, via Roch ridge.
* 1975 - Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian mountaineer, explorer, and author from South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental ...
and Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler (born 22 July 1942) is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria. He developed an interest in mountain climbing at age six.http://www.everesthistory.com/climbers/habeler
Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer a ...
reached the summit on a new route (northwest route) in pure alpine style
Alpine style is mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter and equipment as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked ...
(first time on an 8000-metre peak) taking three days total. One day later, a team of three led by Austrian Hanns Schell reached the summit on the American route.
* 1977 - The fourth successful ascent by two Slovenians (Nejc Zaplotnik and Andrej Stremfelj), again on a new route. Team member Drago Bregar
Drago Bregar (23 August 1952 – 10 July 1977) was a Slovenian mountaineer.
Drago Bregar was the first Yugoslav death in the Himalayas. In the summer of 1977, he was a member of a Slovenian expedition in Karakoram, that climbed a new route o ...
died.
* 1980 - Frenchmen Maurice Barrard and Georges Narbaud are successful with the fifth ascent and pass the South Ridge for the first time.[
* 1981 - A Japanese team follows the Clinch route with fixed ropes for the sixth successful ascent.][
* 1982 - ]Michael Dacher
Michael Dacher (21 August 1933 – 3 December 1994) was a German mountaineer and extreme climber. In 1979 he and Reinhold Messner climbed the K2 in record time and without oxygen equipment.
A primary school in Khadambas, a village 80 ...
, Siegfried Hupfauer and Günter Sturm of a German expedition summit via a new route on the north face. In the same year, French Marie-José Vallençant is the first woman who reaches the summit. Her husband, Sylvain Saudan
Sylvain Saudan (born 23 September 1936 in Lausanne, Switzerland) is an extreme skier, dubbed "skier of the impossible." He is noted for skiing down large and steep mountains, including those in the Himalayas. In 2007 he survived a helicopter crash ...
from Switzerland, performs the first ski descent from the top of an 8000-metre peak to base camp.
* 1983 - Jerzy Kukuczka with Wojciech Kurtyka Wojciech Kurtyka (also ''Voytek'' Kurtyka, born 25 July 1947, in Skrzynka near Kłodzko) is a Polish mountaineer and rock climber, one of the pioneers of the alpine style of climbing the biggest walls in the Greater Ranges. He lived in Wrocław up ...
, new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
* 1983 - Teams from Switzerland and Spain
, image_flag = Bandera de España.svg
, image_coat = Escudo de España (mazonado).svg
, national_motto = ''Plus ultra'' (Latin)(English: "Further Beyond")
, national_anthem = (English: "Royal March")
, i ...
are successful.
* 1984 - Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian mountaineer, explorer, and author from South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental ...
and Hans Kammerlander
Hans Kammerlander (born 6 December 1956, Bolzano, South Tyrol, Italy) is an Italian mountaineer, living in Ahornach, a hamlet nearby Sand in Taufers. He has climbed 13 of the 14 8000m peaks. In 1984, together with Reinhold Messner he was the ...
traverse Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II ( ur, ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan ...
and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp in between
* 1985 - Solo ascent by Benoît Chamoux. On July 14, the Italian Giampiero Di Federico (solo ascent) opens a new route on the north-west face.
* 1997 - Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström reach the summit.
* 2003 - 19 people reach the summit, 4 deaths, including Mohammad Oraz.[
* 2012 - March 9, Adam Bielecki (Poland) and ]Janusz Gołąb Janusz () is a masculine Polish given name.
It is also the shortened form of January and Januarius.
People
*Janusz Akermann (born 1957), Polish painter
* Janusz Bardach, Polish gulag survivor and physician
* Janusz Bielański, Roman Catholic pri ...
(Poland) made the first winter ascent. The ascent was made without the aid of supplementary oxygen.[ The same day, three climbers from a different expedition — Austrian Gerfried Goschl, Swiss Cedric Hahlen and Pakistani Nisar Hussain Sadpara — went missing, never to be found again. They were trying to ascend via a new route and are considered to have been blown off by strong winds.][
* 2013 - 7 July, ]Artur Hajzer
Artur Henryk Hajzer (28 June 1962 – 7 July 2013) was a Polish mountaineer. Hajzer climbed seven eight-thousanders, several via new routes (Manaslu’s NE face in 1986, Shishapangma’s east ridge in 1987) and made the first winter climb of Ann ...
died after falling in the Japanese Couloir after an attempt to reach the summit.
* 2013 - 21 July, Spaniards Abel Alonso, Xebi Gomez and Álvaro Paredes climbed to the top to then disappear while descending after a storm.
* 2017 - 30 July, in an alpine style six-day ascent without supplementary oxygen, Czechs Marek 'Mára' Holeček and Zdeněk Hák established a new route named Satisfaction! (in memory of Zdeněk Hrubý) up the Southwest Face.
See also
* List of mountains in Pakistan
Pakistan is home to 108 peaks above 7,000 metres and 4555 above 6,000 m. There is no count of the peaks above 5,000 and 4,000 m. Five of the 14 highest independent peaks in the world (the eight-thousanders) are in Pakistan (four of which lie in ...
* Highest Mountains of the World
Bibliography
*
*
*
Notes and references
External links
Gasherbrum I on Summitpost
*
Summit Video of Alex Gavan's First Romanian Ascent of Gasherbrum 1 (July 30th 2007)
{{Authority control
Eight-thousanders of the Karakoram
Mountains of Xinjiang
Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan
China–Pakistan border
International mountains of Asia