Hessilhead Lodge
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Beith Beith is a small town in the Garnock Valley, North Ayrshire, Scotland approximately south-west of Glasgow. The town is situated on the crest of a hill and was known originally as the "''Hill o' Beith''" (hill of the birches) after its ''Court ...
,
North Ayrshire North Ayrshire ( gd, Siorrachd Àir a Tuath, ) is one of 32 council areas in Scotland. The council area borders Inverclyde to the north, Renfrewshire and East Renfrewshire to the northeast, and East Ayrshire and South Ayrshire to the east and so ...
, Scotland. Hessilhead used to be called Hazlehead or Hasslehead. The lands were part of the Lordship of Giffen, and the Barony of Hessilhead, within the Baillerie of Cunninghame and the Parish of Beith. The castle was situated at .


Hessilhead Castle

In the late 19th century, the castle was described as "now roofless and ruinous, is an oblong structure, built at two periods, measuring some by 38½ feet. The old west part was apparently a 15th-17th century keep; the east addition was built by Francis Montgomerie, who bought the estate in 1680. Both old and new parts are vaulted on the ground floor; the upper parts are too ruinous to describe. The mansion was allowed to become ruinous about 1776."MacGibbon and Ross, D and T (1887 - 92), ''The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the Twelfth to the Eighteenth Centuries'', 5 V, Edinburgh, Vol. 3, pp. 375–7. It was noted by Pont as a strong old building, surrounded with large ditches and situated on a loch. An article in the
Kilmarnock Standard The ''Kilmarnock Standard'' is a Scottish weekly newspaper published every Wednesday in the town of Kilmarnock Kilmarnock (, sco, Kilmaurnock; gd, Cill Mheàrnaig (IPA: ʰʲɪʎˈveaːɾnəkʲ, "Marnock's church") is a large town and fo ...
of August 1949 titled ''Ancient Ayrshire Castles'' is accompanied by a photograph that shows substantial ivy-clad ruins set in a garden landscape with lawns, shrubs, trees and a well maintained paths.Kilmarnock Standard, August 1949 In 1956 the Royal Commission recorded that ''Hessilhead Castle has been demolished. Extensive quarrying around the site has removed any possible traces of a moat. No building vestiges remain.''; this is however inaccurate as traces of rubble and foundations are still visible on the site, and the drainage from the quarry does use what was once a moat.
Timothy Pont Rev Timothy Pont (c. 1560–c.1627) was a Scottish minister, cartographer and topographer. He was the first to produce a detailed map of Scotland. Pont's maps are among the earliest surviving to show a European country in minute detail, from an a ...
in around 1604 records that the castle was protected by substantial ditches and stood on a
loch ''Loch'' () is the Scottish Gaelic, Scots language, Scots and Irish language, Irish word for a lake or sea inlet. It is Cognate, cognate with the Manx language, Manx lough, Cornish language, Cornish logh, and one of the Welsh language, Welsh w ...
. This loch has long since been drained and the ditches filled in.Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. p. 194. William Roy's map of 1747 - 55National Library of Scotland's maps
/ref> shows a farm town of Hazlehead and nearby, set amongst fairly extensive ornamental rides and plantations, the castle of Heeselhead (sic). Armstrong's map of 1775 marks Hazlehead and finally John Thomson's map of 1832 gives the farm town of Hazelhead and the ruins of Hazlehead.
Hessilhead in its later days was occupied by the family of Lord Glasgow, and after they left, the proprietor, a Mr. Macmichael, about the year 1776, took off the roof and allowed the place to go to ruin. Circa 1887 - 92 it is described as being enclosed as a garden. Dobie records the despoiler of Hessilhead as a Mr. Carmichael, who sold the materials from the castle and also removed parts of the walls, as well as cutting down and selling an impressive old Yew tree.Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. p. 204. In the 1960s the remains of the castle were blown up on the instructions of Howie of Dunlop.Love, Dane (2005), ''Lost Ayrshire - Ayrshire's Lost Architectural Heritage.'' Pub. Birlinn Ltd. Edinburgh. . pp 12 - 13. Robertson records that Francis Montgomery of Giffin had added to the old square castle ''..a great addition in a more modern stile.'' He also comments on the extensive tree planting that was in the shape of a cross, ''according to the taste of the times''.Robertson, George (1820). ''Topographical Description of Ayrshire: More of Cunninghame.'' Irvine : Cunninghame Press. p. 285. It has been suggested that
Coldstream Mill Coldstream Mill,Hume, John R. (1976). ''The Industrial Archaeology of Scotland. The Lowlands and Borders.'' London : B.T. Batsford. . p. 49. near Beith in North Ayrshire, Scotland was an early 19th century meal mill powered by the Dusk Water and ...
was built at this time and Robertson comments on the excellent lands of Cauldstream.Robertson, George (1820). ''Topographical Description of Ayrshire: More of Cunninghame.'' Irvine : Cunninghame Press. p. 286. Dr. Robert Patrick had planned to build a new mansion in the vicinity of the ruins of the castle and had already ''laid down the gardens''. Dobie also records that a little to the south of the ruined castle there was a singular echo, which slowly and plaintively repeated the voice once, ''throwing a melancholy charm over this scene of departed grandeur.''


The history of the lands of Hessilhead

The first recorded holder of the lands of Hessilhead was Hugh de Eglintoun, who obtained the lands following forfeiture. Eglin, Lord of Eglintoun Paterson, James (1866) ''History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton. Vol.III - Cuninghame.'' Pub. James Stillie, Edinburgh. p. 490.Robertson, William (1908). ''Ayrshire. Its History & Historic Families.'' Vol.2. Reprint by Grimsay Press. p. 49. is the first of the family recorded, living during the reign of King
Malcolm Canmore Malcolm III ( mga, Máel Coluim mac Donnchada, label=Medieval Gaelic; gd, Maol Chaluim mac Dhonnchaidh; died 13 November 1093) was King of Scotland from 1058 to 1093. He was later nicknamed "Canmore" ("ceann mòr", Gaelic, literally "big head" ...
; he may have been one of the
Saxon The Saxons ( la, Saxones, german: Sachsen, ang, Seaxan, osx, Sahson, nds, Sassen, nl, Saksen) were a group of Germanic * * * * peoples whose name was given in the early Middle Ages to a large country (Old Saxony, la, Saxonia) near the Nor ...
barons who accompanied King Malcolm (who died in 1093) on his successful return to Scotland. The family continued until Elizabeth de Eglintoun, the sole heir, married Sir John de Montgomerie of
Eaglesham Eaglesham ( ) is a village in East Renfrewshire, Scotland, situated about south of Glasgow, southeast of Newton Mearns and south of Clarkston, and southwest of East Kilbride. The 2011 census revealed that the village had 3,114 occupants, dow ...
. Elizabeth's mother was Giles, daughter of Walter, lord high steward of Scotland, and sister of King Robert II.Douglas, Robert (1764) ''The Peerage of Scotland.'' Edinburgh. p. 228. Image:Robert Patrick of Hazlehead.JPG, The memorial to Robert Patrick of Hazlehead in Beith Auld Kirk. File:William Ralston Patrick of Trearne, Hessilhead and Roughwood.JPG, The memorial to William Ralston Patrick in Beith cemetery. Image:Beith Old Kirk.JPG, Beith Auld kirk. Image:Hessilhead Windbrake.JPG, A Hessilhead shelter belt and estate wall. When Hugh Eglintoun of that Ilk, her father, died soon after 1378 the Montgomerie family inherited the lands and hereafter Hessilhead's history is bound up with that family.Robertson, George (1823). ''A Genealogical Account of the principal families in Ayrshire, more particularly in Cunninghame.'' Printed. Cunninghame Press, Irvine. pp. 342–346. Sir John Montgomerie of Hessilhead and Corsecraigs inherited the estate from his father, Hugh Montgomerie of Bawgraw (Balgray). John was slain at the battle of
Flodden The Battle of Flodden, Flodden Field, or occasionally Branxton, (Brainston Moor) was a battle fought on 9 September 1513 during the War of the League of Cambrai between the Kingdom of England and the Kingdom of Scotland, resulting in an English ...
in 1513 and the estate passed to his son Hugh, who died on 23 January 1556. Hugh's heir was his son John who was appointed one of the tutors to Hugh, third Earl of Eglintoun. John married Margaret Fraser of Knock and was succeed in 1558 by his son Hugh. This ''young Hugh'' was a member of the Convention Parliament of 1560, at which the Protestant Confession of Faith was established. In around 1576, Gabriel Montgomerie of nearby Scotston was slain by adherents of the Montgomeries of Hessilhead. Hugh had a son Robert who inherited in 1602, passing the estate on to his son Robert circa 1623. This Robert was a Commissioner of Supply for Ayrshire and his son, also Robert, succeeded in 1648 and was one of the representatives for
Ayrshire Ayrshire ( gd, Siorrachd Inbhir Àir, ) is a historic county and registration county in south-west Scotland, located on the shores of the Firth of Clyde. Its principal towns include Ayr, Kilmarnock and Irvine and it borders the counties of Re ...
in the first parliament of King Charles II. He had a daughter, Mary, who married MacAulay of Ardincaple. Robert Montgomerie sold Hessilhead to the seventh Earl of Eglinton's (1613–1669) second son, The Right Hon. Francis Montgomerie inherited the nearby
Giffen Castle The Barony of Giffen and its associated 15th-century castle were in the parish of Beith in the former District of Cunninghame, now North Ayrshire. The site may be spelled Giffen or Giffin and lay within the Lordship of Giffin, which included t ...
and lived an eventful life. He was one of the Lords of the Privy Council, and a Commissioner of the Treasury, in the reign of William III and Queen Anne. He was appointed in 1706 as one of the Commissioners for Scotland for the Treaty of Union. The Act of Union was very unpopular in some quarters. A song of 1706 on the Union reads:- In another, called "Lines upon the Rogues in Parliament," is the following stanza :- Francis built an addition to the old tower as well as slating the roof, making it one of the finest properties in the district. Francis also planted extensively, mostly as avenues or rides running to the mansion house. This Dutch style had the avenues in straight lines and at right angles. In the 1860s much of this designed landscape still existed.Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. p. 203. In 1697 Francis was made one of the commissioners looking into
witchcraft Witchcraft traditionally means the use of magic or supernatural powers to harm others. A practitioner is a witch. In medieval and early modern Europe, where the term originated, accused witches were usually women who were believed to have us ...
following the
Christian Shaw Christian Shaw (1685 – 8 September 1737) was a Scottish industrialist regarded as the founder of the thread industry in Renfrewshire. As a child, she was instrumental in the Bargarran witch trials of 1697. Early life Christian Shaw was born ...
case in which five out of 24 accused persons were burned at the stake. In 1692 the spelling of the name was Hyslehead.Hysleheade
/ref> Francis's son
John John is a common English name and surname: * John (given name) * John (surname) John may also refer to: New Testament Works * Gospel of John, a title often shortened to John * First Epistle of John, often shortened to 1 John * Secon ...
contracted such debts that Hessilhead had to be disposed of by judicial sale in 1722 and was bought by Colonel Patrick Ogilvie who had married Elizabeth, one of John's sisters. The colonel sold the property to Robert Brodie of Calderhaugh, who in turn in 1768 sold it to Michael Carmichael. The
coat of arms A coat of arms is a heraldry, heraldic communication design, visual design on an escutcheon (heraldry), escutcheon (i.e., shield), surcoat, or tabard (the latter two being outer garments). The coat of arms on an escutcheon forms the central ele ...
of the Montgomeries of Hessilhead are Azure, two lances of Tournament, proper, between three
Fleurs-de-lis The fleur-de-lis, also spelled fleur-de-lys (plural ''fleurs-de-lis'' or ''fleurs-de-lys''), is a lily (in French, and mean 'flower' and 'lily' respectively) that is used as a decorative design or symbol. The fleur-de-lis has been used in the ...
, Or, and in the chief point an Annulet, Or, Stoned, Azure, with an
Indentation __FORCETOC__ In the written form of many languages, an indentation or indent is an empty space at the beginning of a line to signal the start of a new paragraph. Many computer languages have adopted this technique to designate "paragraphs" or o ...
in the side of the shield, on the
Dexter Dexter may refer to: Arts and entertainment * Dexter, the main character of the American animated series ''Dexter's Laboratory'' that aired from 1996 to 2003 * Dexter, a fictional character in the British Diary of a Bad Man#Main, web series ''Diar ...
side.Paterson, James (1866), ''History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton.'' Vol. III. - Cunninghame. Part I. Pub. James Stillie, Edinburgh. p. 110. The Auld Kirk of
Beith Beith is a small town in the Garnock Valley, North Ayrshire, Scotland approximately south-west of Glasgow. The town is situated on the crest of a hill and was known originally as the "''Hill o' Beith''" (hill of the birches) after its ''Court ...
had the Hessilhead loft in the East Wing. The loft and the carved wood Montgomerie of Hessilhead coat of arms were removed when the new church was built.Beith old Kirk.
The OS map shows that Hessilhead Cottage sat next to a well maintained walled garden, however by 1897 the garden had fallen into ruin. A gamekeepers cottage with a nearby pheasantry is marked from 1912, when a
curling Curling is a sport in which players slide stones on a sheet of ice toward a target area which is segmented into four concentric circles. It is related to bowls, boules, and shuffleboard. Two teams, each with four players, take turns sliding ...
pond makes its first appearance, to the north-west of the castle ruins. In 1827 a lime works is shown on the map in the grounds of the castle.Aitken, Robert (1827), Map of the Parish of Beith.


Trearne

In 1807, Dr. Robert Patrick of Trearne purchased the Hessilhead estate.Paterson, James (1866), ''History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton.'' Vol. III. - Cunninghame. Part I. Pub. James Stillie, Edinburgh. pp. 106–110. Robert Patrick was an army medic and was appointed Inspector of Hospitals in 1801. John Shedden Patrick F.R.S.E. was his heir in 1838 and in 1844 Robert Shedden Patrick of Trearne and Hessilhead succeeded.Paterson, James (1866), ''History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton.'' Vol. III. - Cunninghame. Part I. Pub. James Stillie, Edinburgh. pp. 128–129.
James Dunlop James Dunlop FRSE (31 October 1793 – 22 September 1848) was a Scottish astronomer, noted for his work in Australia. He was employed by Sir Thomas Brisbane to work as astronomer's assistant at his private observatory, once located at Paramat ...
lived at Trearne Lodge in 1820 with his wife. James met Major General Sir Thomas Brisbane through the Patricks of Trearne and went on to become the Astronomer Royal for New South Wales, Sir Thomas being the Governor of New South Wales and a great enthusiast for astronomy. James Dunlop died in Australia, having become a Fellow of the Royal Society, London and Edinburgh and the recipient of many medals recognising his achievements. File:James Dunlop, ca. 1843 oil portrait by Joseph Backler a2448001h.jpg, James Dunlop. Image:Gateside hall.JPG, Gateside's Patrick Memorial Hall. Image:Isobel Patrick memorial hall.JPG, Memorial to Isobel Ralston-Patrick of Trearne who died aged 21 years. File:Major Robert Ralston Patrick at Beith.JPG, Memorial at Beith Cemetery to Major Robert Ralston Patrick. Trearne House had been built about 1870, almost on the 'footprint' of an older mansion house. Mr and Mrs Ralston-Patrick lived for some time in Burnhouse Manor until their new house was ready for them. By 1877 Mr and Mrs Ralston-Patrick were living in the new Trearne. Jenny Kerr was probably the last person born at Trearne Lodge; her mother was living there with her parents when her father was a Lieutenant in the Glasgow Highlanders, and was fighting in France during the first World War.Recollections of Jenny Kerr.
Over Hessilhead was on the Trearne Estate along with Hessilhead, Townend of Hessilhead and an estate saw mill with its water wheel driven by the Dusk Water.Recollections of John McKechnie
During WW2 Trearne House was used by the army, following which it became Gresham House Boarding School. The school had a cook, a matron and five or six teachers up. There would be about thirty boys in the private boarding school, many of whom had parents who worked abroad.Recollections of May Henry.


Limestone quarries

The remains of many small and large fossiliferous limestone quarries are present in the area and have led to the destruction of much of the old estate features. Trearne House and the ancient Saint Bridget's chapel and well suffered the same fate. The flooded quarry close to the old castle is now in use by the Hessilhead Wildlife Rescue Centre for the recuperation of swans and other waterfowl. Limekilns were present in the woods below Over Hessilhead Farm and near Broadstone Hall. A 'lime works' is shown on the 1827 map of the parish.


The Templelands of Cunninghame

The
Knights Templar , colors = White mantle with a red cross , colors_label = Attire , march = , mascot = Two knights riding a single horse , equipment ...
had owned considerable lands and properties in the bailiary of Cunninghame, regality of Kilwinning and in the early 17th century, Robert Montgomerie acquired the rights to these Templelands from the Sandilands family of Calder, the Lords Torphichen and thus became the feudal superior. He also had the lands of the bailiary of Kyle Stewart. The value of these lands largely lay in their near exemption from taxation. In about 1720 the lands passed to the Wallaces of Carnell, at Fiveways near Kilmarnock. Later Dr. Robert Patrick of Trearne & Hessilhead purchased the superiority, although this was of little real value after the abolition of heritable jurisdictions in 1747.Dobie, James D. (ed Dobie, J.S.) (1876). ''Cunninghame, Topographized by Timothy Pont'' 1604–1608, with continuations and illustrative notices. Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. pp. 200–202


Coldstream mill

Coldstream Mill Coldstream Mill,Hume, John R. (1976). ''The Industrial Archaeology of Scotland. The Lowlands and Borders.'' London : B.T. Batsford. . p. 49. near Beith in North Ayrshire, Scotland was an early 19th century meal mill powered by the Dusk Water and ...
was built to serve the Barony and castle of Hessilhead. It was officially known as Whitestone Mill in the Lands of Coldstream. It was first mentioned in 1728, but it may have been built circa 1673, as part of the general improvements, carried out by the Right Honourable Francis Montgomerie, who as previously stated, extended the castle so that it was for a long time reckoned to be the best house in the district.Wood, J. Scott (2002), ''An Architectural Survey of a Meal Mill at Coldstream, by Beith, North Ayrshire.'' Pub. Assoc Cert Field Arch., Glasgow. John Andrew is listed in 1782 as the heir to John Miller, his grandfather, miller in Coldstream. In 1810, the mill passed to William Fulton of
Beith Beith is a small town in the Garnock Valley, North Ayrshire, Scotland approximately south-west of Glasgow. The town is situated on the crest of a hill and was known originally as the "''Hill o' Beith''" (hill of the birches) after its ''Court ...
, by whom it was sold to David Kerr, merchant of Beith and Andrew Gibson, baker, in 1815. William Caldwell then purchased the mill and it remained with the family for the next hundred years. Thomas Caldwell was the miller in 1841, but by 1871 Thomas is farming and the miller is Robert Jack. David Fergie is the miller in 1881, Thomas having retired. By 1891 Robert Jack is the miller again and the sons of Thomas, William and Thomas, are the owners. In 1921 the Smith family bought the mill from Thomas Caldwell, Joseph Smith having been the miller since 1911. Andrew, son of Joseph, worked the mill until 1991. After being enlarged, Coldstream Mill was used for preparing animal feed or meal, grinding linseed cake, beans, maize and barley. The mill had three sets of stones, two working whilst one was being dressed (serviced and sharpened). The mill never had an electricity supply and never needed any auxiliary power thanks to the mill pond. The mill was the last traditional working water mill in Ayrshire and one of the last in Scotland. Some of the items for the mill are on display at the nearby
Dalgarven Mill The tiny village of Dalgarven in North Ayrshire, Scotland is located just north of Kilwinning on the road to Dalry. History In 1881 some two hundred people lived in the village, the mill being at its heart, with a Sunday school, smithy, join ...
museum near Kilwinning. The mill was converted to a private house and the waterwheel and mill pond have been preserved as part of this development.


The Farm Town of Haselet / Clachan of Hessilhead

The 1858
OS map , nativename_a = , nativename_r = , logo = Ordnance Survey 2015 Logo.svg , logo_width = 240px , logo_caption = , seal = , seal_width = , seal_caption = , picture = , picture_width = , picture_caption = , formed = , preceding1 = , di ...
shows a small settlement with a school, a dwelling called Damback, a sawmill and a mill dam nearby. The hamlet may have once been known at Nethertoun as well as 'Haselet' from 'Hessilhead Hamlet'.Porterfield, S. (1925). 'Rambles Round Beith'. Beith : Pilot Press. p. 23 The school had closed by 1897 and Howie's of Dunlop, the owners of the estate, obtained the bell in the 1930s to Dunlop. A small Hessilhead 'Farm Town' hamlet still exists (co-ordinates ), dating from at least the 1740s judging by William Roy's map as previously noted. The site, although undergoing rapid change, appears to be a rare survival of a typical 18th century 'Ferm Toun'. Porterfield in his 'Rambles Round Beith' relates that the name of this
clachan A clachan ( ga, clochán or ; gd, clachan ; gv, claghan ) is a small settlement or hamlet on the island of Ireland, the Isle of Man and Scotland. Though many were originally kirktowns,MacBain, A. (1911) ''An Etymological Dictionary of the Gaeli ...
was 'Haselet' from 'Hasslehead Hamlet' (sic), previously 'Nethertown'. Matthew Pollock who established Beith's Caledonia Cabinet Works in the town and at the
Bark Mill Bark mills, also known as Catskill's mills, are water, steam, horse, ox or wind-powered edge mills used to process the bark, roots, and branches of various tree species into a fine powder known as tanbark, used for tanning leather. This powderin ...
was educated here and after the school's closure he obtained the bell for use at his works in Beith to signal the start and end of the day; it is now located at Netherhouses, near old Templehouse, Dunlop. The school had originally been single storied and thatched, however a second storey was added in 1844 with substantial outside steps and it was slated at this time. The origin of Farm Towns lies in the common medieval sub-division of land called a ploughgate (104 acres), the extent of land which one plough team of oxen could till in a year. This area was again subdivided into four husbandlands, each of . Each husbandland could provide two oxen and eight oxen were need for a plough-team. This arrangement led to small farm towns like Hessilhead being established with accommodation for at least four men in six to eight houses, taking practical considerations into account.Dickinson, William Croft, Donaldson, G., and Milne, I. a. (1958), ''A Source Book of Scottish History''. V. One. Pub. T. Nelson & Sons, London. p 218. A similar 'ferm toun' existed at
Bloak Bloak was a hamlet or clachan in East Ayrshire, Parish of Stewarton, Scotland. The habitation was situated between Auchentiber and Stewarton on the B778. It was originally built as a row of housing for crofters and farm workers. The small school ...
, near
Auchentiber The hamlet of Auchentiber (Scottish Gaelic, ''Achadh an Tiobair'') is in North Ayrshire, Parish of Kilwinning, Scotland. Auchentiber is northeast of Kilwinning on the Lochlibo Road, from the hamlet of Burnhouse and from the village of Barrmil ...
, until the 1890s. Duskwater Cottage was the blacksmith's and a cobbler also worked here. A fine example of an old well survives, thirty feet deep with a sandstone slab cover, pierced with a hole that once held the hand pump. Hessilhead Mill has been demolished, however the circular grain kiln remnants survive, attached to the ruins of the miller's house. The course of the lade is discernable and the watergate or sluice is apparent. Steps once led down to the waterwheel which was not removed but was buried in situ. A largely intact example of a 'Victorian' era water pump survives next to the Dusk water within the clachan. This pump was powered via a small waterwheel and a sluice and weir arrangement once directed water to it. drinking water did nor usually come from water courses due to the risk of pollution by stock, etc and it is not clear what the water from the burn was used for.


Balgray

The Balgray lands were at one time a part of the Hessilhead estate, and were in the 16th century were owned by the Montgomeries. John Stevenson and John Muir were connected with these lands in the early 18th century. Only a cottage and barn survive from what was a larger group of farm buildings, recorded on OS maps, most of which survived until the mid 20th century. The 1797 (dated on the lintel) barn, category B listed, would have been thatched or slated originally, with a lime harl that has entirely disintegrated. An arched opening, now blocked up, suggests that originally this building was used as a cart shed. Ventilation slits survive on all sides.British Listed Buildings
Retrieved : 2011-01-27
The small wing to the 1767 cottage could have been used as storage or for cattle; the surviving
doocot A dovecote or dovecot , doocot (Scots Language, Scots) or columbarium is a structure intended to house Domestic pigeon, pigeons or doves. Dovecotes may be free-standing structures in a variety of shapes, or built into the end of a house or ba ...
shows that pigeons were kept in the loft above as an additional source of food. The category C(s) listed cottage, now much altered, had small windows typical of the 18th century and has some smart details that separate it from the typical rubble-built
smallholding A smallholding or smallholder is a small farm operating under a small-scale agriculture model. Definitions vary widely for what constitutes a smallholder or small-scale farm, including factors such as size, food production technique or technology ...
, with very prominent skewputts and
cavetto A cavetto is a concave moulding with a regular curved profile that is part of a circle, widely used in architecture as well as furniture, picture frames, metalwork and other decorative arts. In describing vessels and similar shapes in pottery, ...
eaves course illustrating its sophistication.


Crookhill

Crookhill is a corruption of 'Crosshill' and makes reference in its name to the fact that as it was on the boundary of the lands held by the old Chapel of Saint Bridget then a cross was erected nearby to mark the limits of the church lands. In 1672 the lands were held by John Anderson whose wife was Janet Barclay. John also held the lands of Geilsland.Deeds of Service, Charters and Dispositions of Geilsland.Geilsland Deeds, Charters & Sasines Thomas had inherited by 1697 and then James Anderson. The lands of Cruckhills later passed into the ownership of Hugh Wilson


The Hessilhead and Thirdpart feud

A shocking series of incidents occurred in the locality of Hessilhead, starting on 19 July 1576 when the Lady of Hessilhead slapped one Robert Kent, servant to Gabriel, brother of John Montgomerie. The servant complained to his master and Gabriel went to his brother at the old Thirdpart mansion for advice. John advised him to seek revenge and the next morning Gabriel and Robert gained entry into Hessilhead Castle where they found the lady alone, upon which they grabbed her by the hair, pulled her onto the floor, kicked her in the bowels, and bruised her shamefully. Gabriel intended to shoot the Laird, however the whole household was now awake and the two only just managed to escape by stealing a horse and locking the castle gate from the outside. The Laird,A Guide to Local History Terminology
/ref> Hew Montgomerie, hastened to Thirdpart where John and Gabriel came out with pistols and drawn swords and attacked Hew Montgomerie, injuring him on various parts of his body and leaving him for dead. He was rescued by some neighbours who took him to Hessilhead castle where he recovered from his wounds. Soon afterwards, Hessilhead men, probably from Nethertoun, including one named Giffen, killed Gabriel Montgomerie after setting up an ambush for him. On 26 August, John Kent and another brother, Walter, went to try to kill the Laird, but could not find him. None of the court cases resulted in a guilty verdict, because 'honour' had been satisfied on both sides.Dobie, James (1876). Pont's Cunninghame topographized 1604–1608 with continuations and illustrative notices (1876). Pub. John Tweed. pp. 196–198.Robertson, William (1889) ''The Lady of Hessilhead outraged, and Gabriel Montgomerie of Thirdpart slain.'' in ''Historical Tales and Legends of Ayrshire.'' Pub. Hamilton, Adams & Co. p. 273 - 287.


The Spectral Knight of Hessilhead and the Bride of Aiket

Henry Montgomerie of Hessilhead was pledged to marry his true love, Anna Cunninghame of Aiket Castle. They were to marry upon his return from the
crusades The Crusades were a series of religious wars initiated, supported, and sometimes directed by the Latin Church in the medieval period. The best known of these Crusades are those to the Holy Land in the period between 1095 and 1291 that were in ...
, however Allan Lockhart, son of a neighbouring Baron began to pay frequent visits to the inmates of Aiket Castle. His courtship was in vain and he would have no success unless the Crusades were to claim Henry Montgomerie. After many more months had passed Allan decided to use trickery and eventually persuaded a foot soldier recently returned from the Crusades to tell the false tale of the death of Henry Montgomerie. The ruse was carried off with success and after a short while Allan pressed his attentions again and the marriage day was set. On the very day of the wedding, Henry returned to Hessilhead castle and discovered the treacherous act, but he fell from his horse on his way to claim his bride and died. At midnight the wedding feast was halted abruptly by the figure of the fully armour clad Neil Montgomerie striding into Aiket Castle hall, lifting up the Lady Anna and then vanishing into the night. Neither soldier nor bride were ever found.Robertson, William (1889) ''Historical Tales and Legends of Ayrshire.'' Pub. Hamilton, Adams & Co. pp. 340–357. The Lockhart, Loccard or Lockhard family are believed to have been the first owners of the Barony of Kilmarnock. Symington is named after a
Flemish Flemish (''Vlaams'') is a Low Franconian dialect cluster of the Dutch language. It is sometimes referred to as Flemish Dutch (), Belgian Dutch ( ), or Southern Dutch (). Flemish is native to Flanders, a historical region in northern Belgium; ...
knight, Simon Loccard.


Alexander Montgomerie

The 16th century poet,
Alexander Montgomerie Alexander Montgomerie (Scottish Gaelic: Alasdair Mac Gumaraid) (c. 1550?–1598) was a Scottish Jacobean courtier and poet, or makar, born in Ayrshire. He was a Scottish Gaelic speaker and a Scots speaker from Ayrshire, an area which wa ...
was a younger son of the Renfrewshire laird Hugh Montgomerie of Hessilheid (d. 1558), and related both to the Earl of Eglinton and to
King James VI James VI and I (James Charles Stuart; 19 June 1566 – 27 March 1625) was King of Scotland as James VI from 24 July 1567 and King of England and Ireland as James I from the union of the Scottish and English crowns on 24 March 1603 until ...
(later
James I of England James VI and I (James Charles Stuart; 19 June 1566 – 27 March 1625) was King of Scotland as James VI from 24 July 1567 and King of England and King of Ireland, Ireland as James I from the Union of the Crowns, union of the Scottish and Eng ...
). Nothing is known about his life before about 1580, but contemporary or near-contemporary accounts suggest that he was brought up as a
Protestant Protestantism is a Christian denomination, branch of Christianity that follows the theological tenets of the Reformation, Protestant Reformation, a movement that began seeking to reform the Catholic Church from within in the 16th century agai ...
, spent some time in Argyll before leaving for the Continent, and was converted to Catholicism in Spain. He may have served in the Scottish forces in The Netherlands for a time in the later 1570s.Alexander Montgomerie. ''A selection from his songs and poems.'' Ed. & Introduced by Helena M. Shire. Pub. Oliver & Boyd for The Saltire Society. (1960). He died between the years 1607 and 1611. The range of his work is extensive, from elegant court songs to the bitter, sometimes contorted word-play of the sonnets associated with the dispute over his pension, from witty pieces addressed to the king to the profound religious sensibility of 'A godly prayer'. Montgomerie is one of the finest of Middle Scots poets, and perhaps the greatest Scottish exponent of the sonnet form.
Robert Burns Robert Burns (25 January 175921 July 1796), also known familiarly as Rabbie Burns, was a Scottish poet and lyricist. He is widely regarded as the national poet of Scotland and is celebrated worldwide. He is the best known of the poets who hav ...
was indebted to Alexander as is apparent from his imitating his style and adopting some of his quaint expressions.Macintosh, John (1894), ''Ayrshire Nights' Entertainments.'' Kilmarnock : Dunlop & Drennan. p. 369. The ''Cherrie and the Slae'', which he probably revised and completed shortly before his death, is an ambitious religious allegory, employing a demanding, lyrical form which suggests that it was intended for singing, despite its considerable length. The Cherry and the Sloe in the title may derive from an illusion to the cherry being virtuous and the sloe being easily plucked but bitter to the taste and representing vice. His poetry reaches back to the earlier Makars, Robert Henryson, William Dunbar and Gavin Douglas, and some of his work invites comparison with Baroque writers. Alexander was one of the last court poets to write in Scots. A later poem was entitled a 'Spring Morning' and described one of the royal palaces, probably Linlithgow, on such a morning. Alexander's son, also Alexander, was reportedly bewitched, together with his cousin, Mrs. Vallange. The case, and therefore the witch, went to trial, because of their 'trouble and sickness', but the court's verdict isn't recorded.Paterson, James (1866), ''History of the Counties of Ayr and Wigton.'' Vol. III. - Cunninghame. Part I. Pub. James Stillie, Edinburgh. p. 107.


Archbishop Robert Montgomerie

In the 1580s the Duke of Lennox held the patronage of the Archbishopric of Glasgow and settled this 'tulchan' post on Robert Montgomerie of Hessilhead in 1581 who was however forced to formally resign as
Archbishop of Glasgow The Archbishop of Glasgow is an archiepiscopal title that takes its name after the city of Glasgow in Scotland. The position and title were abolished by the Church of Scotland in 1689; and, in the Scottish Episcopal Church, it is now part of the ...
in 1587. A '
tulchan A Tulchan (from the Scottish Gaelic, ''tulachan'') was in Scotland a man appointed as bishop after the Reformation, who was a bishop in name only and whose revenue was drawn by his patron. The term originally referred to a calfskin stuffed with s ...
' post was one where the patron enjoyed the emoluments of the post whilst the holder was not expected to undertake many of the duties. Robert died circa 1609, was a brother of the poet Alexander, married Beatrice Jameson and had one son, also named Robert. The reformer
Andrew Melville Andrew Melville (1 August 1545 – 1622) was a Scottish scholar, theologian, poet and religious reformer. His fame encouraged scholars from the European continent to study at Glasgow and St. Andrews. He was born at Baldovie, on 1 August 154 ...
prosecuted Robert Montgomery and for this he was summoned before the Privy Council in 1584, and had to escape to England to avoid being charged with treason.


Archaeology

The Cuff Hill
rocking stone Rocking stones (also known as logan stones or logans) are large stones that are so finely balanced that the application of just a small force causes them to rock. Typically, rocking stones are residual corestones formed initially by spheroidal ...
(NS 3827 5542) is a large glacial erratic boulder of basaltic greenstone lying on porphyrite that some associate with the
Druid A druid was a member of the high-ranking class in ancient Celtic cultures. Druids were religious leaders as well as legal authorities, adjudicators, lorekeepers, medical professionals and political advisors. Druids left no written accounts. Whi ...
s, part of the old Hessilhead Barony. It no longer rocks due to people digging beneath to ascertain its fulcrum.''Topographical Description of Ayrshire; more Particularly of Cunninghame: together with a Genealogical account of the Principal families in that Bailiwick.'', George Robertson, Cunninghame Press, Irvine, 1820 It is in a small wood and surrounded by a circular drystone wall. A cleft in the west-front of Cuff hill is still known as 'St. Inan's Chair' and said to have been used by the saint as a
pulpit A pulpit is a raised stand for preachers in a Christian church. The origin of the word is the Latin ''pulpitum'' (platform or staging). The traditional pulpit is raised well above the surrounding floor for audibility and visibility, access ...
.Smith, John (1895). ''Prehistoric Man in Ayrshire''. Pub. Elliot Stock. p. 83. and a crystal clear holy well existed nearby,Dobie, James (1876) ''Cunninghame topographised by Timothy Pont'' Pub. John Tweed, Glasgow. p. 324. now sadly covered over (2006). On Cuff Hill were also located a group of four standing stones, the 'Druids' Graves', rediscovered in 1813, stands nearby surrounded by an enclosing drystone dyke and also located in the area is the likely site of a pre-reformation chapel near Kirklee Green and Lochland's Loch. A chapel and well dedicated to St. Bridget existed at nearby Trearne on a low hill, with an associated burial ground and a nook in which was set a carving of two figures, very worn and looking like a cat and a rabbit, measuring by .Reflections on Beith and District. ''On the wings of time.'' (1994). Pub. Beith High Church Youth Group. . p. 21. The ruins at Trearne were destroyed by quarrying in comparatively recent times.


Railways

Hessilhead never had a railway station; however, a number of lines ran close by, including the line from Lugton to Beith which was originally part of the
Glasgow, Barrhead and Kilmarnock Joint Railway The Glasgow, Barrhead and Kilmarnock Joint Railway was a railway jointly owned by the Caledonian Railway and the Glasgow and South Western Railway, completed in 1873, and giving the latter a shorter access to its Carlisle main line. A branch t ...
. The station opened at opened on 26 June 1873 as Beith. It was renamed Beith Town on 28 February 1953, and closed permanently to passengers on 5 November 1962. Freight services continued at the station until 1964. The station was the
terminus Terminus may refer to: * Bus terminus, a bus station serving as an end destination * Terminal train station or terminus, a railway station serving as an end destination Geography *Terminus, the unofficial original name of Atlanta, Georgia, United ...
of a five-mile (8 km) branch from
Lugton Lugton is a small village or hamlet in East Ayrshire, Scotland with a population of 80 people. The A736 road runs through on its way from Glasgow, to the north, to Irvine in North Ayrshire. Uplawmoor is the first settlement on this 'Lochlibo Ro ...
.Butt, R.V.J. (1995). ''The Directory of Railway Stations'', Patrick Stephens Ltd, Sparkford. . The line to Beith is still in existence (as of 2008) until just before the site of
Barrmill railway station Barrmill railway station was a railway station serving the village of Barrmill, North Ayrshire, Scotland. The station was originally part of the Glasgow, Barrhead and Kilmarnock Joint Railway. History The station opened on 26 June 1873,Butt, ...
, where it then heads south along the original route of the
Lanarkshire and Ayrshire Railway The Lanarkshire and Ayrshire Railway (L&AR) was an independent railway company built to provide the Caledonian Railway with a shorter route for mineral traffic from the coalfields of Lanarkshire to Ardrossan Harbour, in Scotland. It opened in st ...
until it reaches DM Beith. DM Beith reportedly no longer require the rail connection. A live railway emergency exercise at Lugton on the DM Beith branch line in 2000 played a vital part in the ongoing process of protecting Scotland’s rail passengers. The exercise simulated a collision between two passenger trains carrying 270 passengers. The aim was to test the emergency services' response and management co-ordination by replicating real accident conditions as closely as possible. Strathclyde police co-ordinated the exercise in conjunction with the rail industry in Scotland, the British Transport Police, Civil Police, Scottish Ambulance Service, Fire Brigade, local authorities and Government emergency planning co-ordinators.Live railway accident exercise.


Hessilhead Wildlife Rescue Centre

Hessilhead is the site of a
wildlife rescue Wildlife rehabilitation is the treatment and care of injured, orphaned, or sick wild animals so that they can be released back to the wild. Process Rehabilitation begins when an animal is found and reported to a wildlife rehabilitator, or seize ...
centre that has been run by Andy and Gay Christie for well over 20 years. They rescue and rehabilitate injured and abandoned animals and birds. They treat over 3000 creatures a year. A swan treatment room has been purpose built and the centre owns a nearby flooded limestone quarry that is used by the rescued swans, etc. They have x-ray facilities and a surgery suite, as well as the part-time services of a
veterinarian A veterinarian (vet), also known as a veterinary surgeon or veterinary physician, is a medical professional who practices veterinary medicine. They manage a wide range of health conditions and injuries in non-human animals. Along with this, vet ...
. An annual open day is held.


See also

* Barony of Ladyland *
Blae Loch, Beith The Blae Loch is a small freshwater loch situated in a hollow in a low-lying area beneath Blaelochhead Hill in the Parish of Beith, North Ayrshire, Scotland. History The loch is a natural feature, a post-glacial kettle hole once of a greate ...
- part of the old estate. *
Eglinton Country Park Eglinton Country Park is located on the grounds of the old Eglinton Castle estate in Kilwinning, North Ayrshire, Scotland (map reference NS 3227 4220). Eglinton Park is situated in the parish of Kilwinning, part of the former district of Cunni ...
The Eglintouns of Hessilhead. * Silverwood, Ayrshire Robert Montgomerie of Silverwood and Hessilhead


References


External links


Official Hessilhead Wildlife Rescue Center website.Commentary and video on Hessilhead Castle and loch
on
YouTube YouTube is a global online video platform, online video sharing and social media, social media platform headquartered in San Bruno, California. It was launched on February 14, 2005, by Steve Chen, Chad Hurley, and Jawed Karim. It is owned by ...

Commentary and video on the water powered water pump at Haselet
on YouTube
YouTube video of the Cuff Hill Rocking or Logan Stone
{{authority control Villages in North Ayrshire Castles in North Ayrshire Demolished buildings and structures in Scotland Lowland castles Tower houses in Scotland Beith