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Henry Moss (born October 1933) is a British clothing and food entrepreneur, notable for women's fashion and associated with the emergence of London's
Carnaby Street Carnaby Street is a pedestrianised shopping street in Soho in the City of Westminster, Central London. Close to Oxford Street and Regent Street, it is home to fashion and lifestyle retailers, including many independent fashion boutiques. Stre ...
as a world centre of fashion in the
swinging sixties The Swinging Sixties was a youth-driven cultural revolution that took place in the United Kingdom during the mid-to-late 1960s, emphasising modernity and fun-loving hedonism, with Swinging London as its centre. It saw a flourishing in art, mus ...
.


Personal life

Henry Moss, born Henry Tiskovitz, in October 1933 at Mother Levy's Nursing Home,
Tower Hamlets The London Borough of Tower Hamlets is a London borough covering much of the traditional East End. It was formed in 1965 from the merger of the former metropolitan boroughs of Stepney, Poplar, and Bethnal Green. 'Tower Hamlets' was originally ...
, East London. The family later relocated to
Dorset Dorset ( ; archaically: Dorsetshire , ) is a county in South West England on the English Channel coast. The ceremonial county comprises the unitary authority areas of Bournemouth, Christchurch and Poole and Dorset (unitary authority), Dors ...
, eventually settling in Winton, where Moss was educated at
Bournemouth School Bournemouth School is a boys' grammar school and co-educational sixth form in Charminster, Bournemouth, Dorset, England, for children aged 11 to 18. History The school was founded by Dr. E. Fenwick and opened on 22 January 1901, admitting 54 ...
. In 1962 Moss married Lilian Moss (née Silverman), subject of the BBC documentary, ''My Mother's Lost Children''. The couple settled in
Hampstead Garden Suburb Hampstead Garden Suburb is an elevated suburb of London, north of Hampstead, west of Highgate and east of Golders Green. It is known for its intellectual, liberal, artistic, musical and literary associations. It is an example of early twentiet ...
, North London. They have a son and daughter;
Daniel Daniel is a masculine given name and a surname of Hebrew origin. It means "God is my judge"Hanks, Hardcastle and Hodges, ''Oxford Dictionary of First Names'', Oxford University Press, 2nd edition, , p. 68. (cf. Gabriel—"God is my strength" ...
, holder of the
Centenary Medal The Centenary Medal is an award which was created by the Australian Government in 2001. It was established to commemorate the centenary of the Federation of Australia and to recognise "people who made a contribution to Australian society or go ...
, was associate professor at
Deakin University Deakin University is a public university in Victoria, Australia. Founded in 1974, the university was named after Alfred Deakin, the second Prime Minister of Australia. Its main campuses are in Melbourne's Burwood suburb, Geelong Waurn Ponds, ...
and is a documentary maker; Ira who set up and runs the charity All Dogs Matter.


Work

Moss's first businesses, Mann & Moss (Pay as you wear) Ltd & Mann & Moss (Camden) Ltd, began in 1954 at age 21 with his uncle, Percy Mann, supplying goods to homes around London, providing credit for lower income families. Around 1960 Moss established his first fashion businesses retailing ladies and children's clothes; Camden Fashions at 67a Camden High Street & Children's Fashion Centre at 80 Camden High Street, London. Around 1965 Moss was inspired to move to Carnaby Street by his neighbours, the Gold brothers, who had opened their
Lord John Lord John was a British men's fashion retailer, which opened its first store at 43 Carnaby Street, London, at the corner with Ganton Street, in 1963. The first Lord John boutique was opened by the brothers Warren, Harold and David Gold in Car ...
store there.


Carnaby Street

Moss and Harry Fox opened Lady Jane, the first ladies boutique, at 29 Carnaby Street in April 1966 In one of London's most famous publicity stunts, Moss and Fox had models Diane James and Gina Baker dressing in the window, drawing huge crowds and landing him in trouble with the police resulting in an appearance at Great Marlborough Street Court and a fine of £2.00, the brainchild of then PR man
Michael Freedland Michael Rodney Freedland (18 December 1934 – 1 October 2018)Claridges Claridge's is a 5-star hotel at the corner of Brook Street and Davies Street in Mayfair, London. It has long-standing connections with royalty that have led to it sometimes being referred to as an "annexe to Buckingham Palace". Claridge's Hote ...
. In 1967 Fox stood for election as an 'Independent Carnaby Street' candidate for the Cities of London and Westminster. See through clothing and paint on bras were all part of the promotion and image of the time.
Cat Stevens Yusuf Islam (born Steven Demetre Georgiou; ), commonly known by his stage names Cat Stevens, Yusuf, and Yusuf / Cat Stevens, is a British singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist. His musical style consists of folk, pop, rock, and, later in ...
worked in the boutique for a short time and customers included
Martha & the Vandellas Martha and the Vandellas (known from 1967 to 1972 as Martha Reeves & The Vandellas) were an American vocal girl group formed in Detroit in 1957. The group achieved fame in the 1960s with Motown. An act founded by friends Annette Beard, Rosalind ...
,
Nancy Sinatra Nancy Sandra Sinatra (born June 8, 1940) is an American singer and actress. She is the elder daughter of Frank Sinatra and Nancy Sinatra ( Barbato), and is best known for her 1966 signature hit "These Boots Are Made for Walkin'. Nancy Sinatra ...
,
Mia Farrow Maria de Lourdes Villiers "Mia" Farrow ( ; born February 9, 1945) is an American actress. She first gained notice for her role as Allison MacKenzie in the television soap opera '' Peyton Place'' and gained further recognition for her subsequent ...
,
Julia Foster Julia Foster (born 2 August 1943) is an English stage, screen, and television actress. Life and career Foster was born in Lewes, Sussex. Her first husband was Lionel Morton, once the lead singer with the 1960s pop band The Four Pennies. She is ...
,
Joan Collins Dame Joan Henrietta Collins (born 23 May 1933) is an English actress, author and columnist. Collins is the recipient of several accolades, including a Golden Globe Award, a People's Choice Award, two Soap Opera Digest Awards and a Primetime ...
and her then husband
Anthony Newley Anthony Newley (24 September 1931 – 14 April 1999) was an English actor, singer, songwriter, and filmmaker. A "latter-day British Al Jolson", he achieved widespread success in song, and on stage and screen. "One of Broadway's greatest leading ...
. Regular patrons included
Michael Crawford Michael Patrick Smith, (born 19 January 1942), known professionally as Michael Crawford, is an English tenor, actor and comedian. Crawford is best known for playing both the hapless Frank Spencer in the sitcom ''Some Mothers Do 'Ave 'Em'' an ...
,
Georgie Fame Georgie Fame (born Clive Powell; 26 June 1943) is an English R&B and jazz musician. Fame, who had a string of 1960s hits, is still performing, often working with contemporaries such as Alan Price, Van Morrison and Bill Wyman. Fame is the on ...
and actress
Sylva Koscina Sylva Koscina (; born Silvija Košćina, ; 22 August 1933 – 26 December 1994) was a Yugoslav-born Italian actress, maybe best remembered for her role as Iole, the bride of Hercules ( Steve Reeves) in ''Hercules'' (1958) and ''Hercules Unchai ...
.
Claudia Cardinale Claude Joséphine Rose "Claudia" Cardinale (; born 15 April 1938) is an Italian actress. She has starred in some of the most iconic European films of the 1960s and 1970s, acting in Italian, French, and English. Born and raised in La Goulette, a ...
was introduced to the boutique by designer
Pierre Cardin Pierre Cardin (, , ), born Pietro Costante Cardino (2 July 1922 – 29 December 2020), was an Italian-born naturalised-French fashion designer. He is known for what were his avant-garde style and Space Age designs. He preferred geometric shap ...
. An interview with actress
Jayne Mansfield Jayne Mansfield (born Vera Jayne Palmer; April 19, 1933 – June 29, 1967) was an American actress, singer, nightclub entertainer, and ''Playboy'' Playmate. A sex symbol of the 1950s and early 1960s while under contract at 20th Century Fox, Man ...
further raised Lady Jane's profile but by 1968 Moss and Fox had parted company. In 1966 Moss rented 15 Foubert's Place to I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, establishing their first shop in the Carnaby Street area. Later, around 1968–69 Moss entered into a joint venture with them, opening a shop on Piccadilly Circus. In spring 1968 Henry Moss launched Sweet Fanny Adams, located at 47A Carnaby Street. The shop retailed ladies underwear and swimming costumes as well as acting as a centre for the burgeoning demand for nylon
tights Tights are a kind of cloth garment, most often sheathing the body from the waist to the toe tips with a tight fit, hence the name. They come in absolute opaque, opaque, sheer and fishnet styles — or a combination, such as the original concept ...
which supplanted stockings as nylon technology improved. Later in 1968 Moss opened Pussy Galore, named after
Honor Blackman Honor Blackman (22 August 1925 – 5 April 2020) was an English actress, known for the roles of Cathy Gale in '' The Avengers''Aaker, Everett (2006). ''Encyclopedia of Early Television Crime Fighters''. McFarland & Company, Inc. . P. 58. (1962â ...
's character in the
James Bond The ''James Bond'' series focuses on a fictional British Secret Service agent created in 1953 by writer Ian Fleming, who featured him in twelve novels and two short-story collections. Since Fleming's death in 1964, eight other authors have ...
film Goldfinger. The shop was located at 5–7 Carnaby Street. Moss's white crocheted dress creation, made from a tablecloth, was included in the 2006 V&A 'Sixties Fashion' exhibition. Regular visitors included Francoise Pascal. After winning 'best legs in London' competition
Tamasin Day-Lewis Lydia Tamasin Day-Lewis (born 17 September 1953) is an English television chef and food critic, who has also published a dozen books about food, restaurants, recipes and places. She writes regularly for ''The Daily Telegraph'', '' Vanity Fair'', ...
was awarded £100 to spend in Pussy Galore. Moss set up The London Mob in 1968, a clothing production company. This allowed him to both retail and wholesale his creations. Design was based at Stephen House, 52–55 Carnaby Street with the main showroom at 63 Great Portland Street. Moss served a writ on Sammy Davies Jr in 1968 whilst on stage at the
London Palladium The London Palladium () is a Grade II* West End theatre located on Argyll Street, London, in the famous area of Soho. The theatre holds 2,286 seats. Of the roster of stars who have played there, many have televised performances. Between 1955 an ...
, in Golden Boy. Sammy Davies had failed to pay for the show clothes. In 1968 Moss ventured to USA, opening the first contemporary
pop-up shop Pop-up retail, also known as pop-up store (pop-up shop in the UK, Australia and Ireland) or flash retailing, is a trend of opening short-term sales spaces that last for days to weeks before closing down, often to catch onto a fad or scheduled e ...
on Kings Highway in Brooklyn for two days.


Post Carnaby Street

Carnaby Street had influenced fashion across the world but by the mid 1970s Carnaby Street came into decline as fashion outlets moved into
King's Road King's Road or Kings Road (or sometimes the King's Road, especially when it was the king's private road until 1830, or as a colloquialism by middle/upper class London residents), is a major street stretching through Chelsea, London, Chelsea ...
and
Kensington High Street Kensington High Street is the main shopping street in Kensington, London, England. The area is identified in the London Plan as one of 35 major centres in Greater London. Kensington High Street is the continuation of Kensington Road and part ...
. Travelling to Turkey as part of a British export trade initiative in early 1974 to promote The London Mob, Moss was Invited to a night club in Istanbul, his credit cards were stolen, then served with an exorbitant bill and held to ransom by the owners. Negotiating his release he contacted the Turkish police who took Moss back to the night club where they administered rough justice. Back at his hotel Moss was astounded to see everyone seemed to know him unaware the incident had become front-page news. Presenting himself in the foyer, Turkish Airlines Captain Atilla Celebi offered Moss the opportunity to fly out of Turkey a day earlier than planned. To Moss's amazement the next day he found the flight he would have taken,
Turkish Airlines Flight 981 Turkish Airlines Flight 981 was a scheduled flight from Istanbul Yeşilköy Airport to London Heathrow Airport, with an intermediate stop at Orly Airport in Paris. On 3 March 1974, the McDonnell Douglas DC-10 operating the flight crashed into ...
, had crashed. In an ironic twist it transpired that Captain Celebi's wife was already a customer of The London Mob. In the late 1970s Moss established the company Henry Moss of London Ltd, a fashion export business based at 25 Margaret Street, W1. In 1979 Moss contested a VAT export procedure which led to a change in VAT protocol after appealing a VAT tribunal, setting the ruling as a frequently quoted Court of Appeal case. In a 1980 Court of Appeal ruling adjudicated by
Lord Denning Alfred Thompson "Tom" Denning, Baron Denning (23 January 1899 â€“ 5 March 1999) was an English lawyer and judge. He was called to the bar of England and Wales in 1923 and became a King's Counsel in 1938. Denning became a judge in 1944 when ...
, Moss eventually lost his case on a technicality. Around mid 1980s Moss moved into the catering sector creating Munchkin's a themed restaurant he currently owns and operates. In 2010 the
London College of Fashion The London College of Fashion is a constituent college of the University of the Arts London, in London, England. It offers undergraduate, postgraduate, short courses, study abroad courses and business-training in fashion, make-up, beauty-therap ...
celebrated 50 years of Fashion & Music in Carnaby Street 1960–2010, inviting the surviving entrepreneurs that made it happen. In 2011 Danny Ben-Moshe produced a documentary about Carnaby Street in its heyday called 'Carnaby Street Undressed' featuring interviews with
Roger Daltrey Roger Harry Daltrey (born 1 March 1944) is an English singer, musician and actor. He is a co-founder and the lead singer of the Rock music, rock band The Who. Daltrey's hit songs with The Who include "My Generation", "Pinball Wizard", "Won't Ge ...
of
The Who The Who are an English rock band formed in London in 1964. Their classic lineup consisted of lead singer Roger Daltrey, guitarist and singer Pete Townshend, bass guitarist and singer John Entwistle, and drummer Keith Moon. They are considered ...
, Robert Orbach of I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, Warren Gold of
Lord John Lord John was a British men's fashion retailer, which opened its first store at 43 Carnaby Street, London, at the corner with Ganton Street, in 1963. The first Lord John boutique was opened by the brothers Warren, Harold and David Gold in Car ...
& Henry Moss In 2019 Moss was awarded a
green plaque A blue plaque is a permanent sign installed in a public place in the United Kingdom and elsewhere to commemorate a link between that location and a famous person, event, or former building on the site, serving as a historical marker. The term i ...
by
Westminster City Council Westminster City Council is the local authority for the City of Westminster in Greater London, England. The city is divided into 20 wards, each electing three councillors. The council is currently composed of 31 Labour Party members and 23 Cons ...
for his contribution to fashion, specifically Lady Jane as the first iconic ladies fashion boutique of Carnaby Street.


References


External links

* Article â€
SixtiesCity

Article – Carnaby Street Facts – LDN-Fashion-Carnaby StreetArticle – Science&Society – Lady Jane Shop OpensArticle – BBC – No.32-Lady Jane
* ttp://colinchapmanmuseum.org.uk/?page_id=2219 Article – Archive – Flower Power in Carnaby Street: An Elan in Carnaby Street c 1967/ 69br>Article – Londontopia – What's All This Then?Book – Soho & Theatreland Through TimeBook – The A-Z of Curious LondonBook – Boutique London : a history : King's Road to Carnaby StreetBook – Gear guide (pocket guide to Britain's swinging fashion scene)Book – Carbany StreetBook – Carnaby Street 1960–2010Book – White Heat-A History of Britain in the Swinging SixtiesBook – Singing Sixties ref V&A 2006 ExhibitionVideo – Lady Jane – Fashion 1960–69Video – Sweet Fanny Adams – 1960s Carnaby StreetVideo – History of Carnaby StreetImage – Lady Jane – London College of Fashion
{{DEFAULTSORT:Moss, Henry 1933 births Living people British businesspeople in fashion British restaurateurs 21st-century British businesspeople 20th-century British businesspeople Businesspeople from London People from Dorset People educated at Bournemouth School British company founders