Henry Morton Stanley's First Trans-Africa Expedition
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Between 1874 and 1877
Henry Morton Stanley Sir Henry Morton Stanley (born John Rowlands; 28 January 1841 – 10 May 1904) was a Welsh-American explorer, journalist, soldier, colonial administrator, author and politician who was famous for his exploration of Central Africa Cen ...
traveled Central Africa east to west, exploring
Lake Victoria Lake Victoria is one of the African Great Lakes. With a surface area of approximately , Lake Victoria is Africa's largest lake by area, the world's largest tropical lake, and the world's second-largest fresh water lake by surface area after ...
,
Lake Tanganyika Lake Tanganyika () is an African Great Lake. It is the second-oldest freshwater lake in the world, the second-largest by volume, and the second-deepest, in all cases after Lake Baikal in Siberia. It is the world's longest freshwater lake. ...
and the Lualaba and
Congo Congo or The Congo may refer to either of two countries that border the Congo River in central Africa: * Democratic Republic of the Congo, the larger country to the southeast, capital Kinshasa, formerly known as Zaire, sometimes referred to a ...
rivers. He covered from Zanzibar in the east to Boma at the mouth of the Congo in the west. The expedition resolved several open questions concerning the geography of Central Africa, including identifying the source of the Nile, which he proved was not the Lualabab and is in fact the source of the Congo River.


Previous African journey

This was Stanley's second journey in central Africa. In 1871–72 he had searched for and successfully found the missionary and explorer David Livingstone. In his publications, Stanley described greeting him with the famous words: "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?", but his report in this is disputed.


Objectives

Stanley's journey had four principal aims, to: # Explore
Lake Victoria Lake Victoria is one of the African Great Lakes. With a surface area of approximately , Lake Victoria is Africa's largest lake by area, the world's largest tropical lake, and the world's second-largest fresh water lake by surface area after ...
and its inflowing and outflowing rivers # Explore Lake Albert and its inflowing and outflowing rivers # Explore
Lake Tanganyika Lake Tanganyika () is an African Great Lake. It is the second-oldest freshwater lake in the world, the second-largest by volume, and the second-deepest, in all cases after Lake Baikal in Siberia. It is the world's longest freshwater lake. ...
, determining the direction of flow of the Ruzizi River at the north end of the lake # Explore the Lualaba River downstream towards its outflow There was controversy among earlier explorers as to whether these lakes and rivers were connected to each other and the Nile. Richard Burton thought that Lake Victoria might have a southern inlet, possibly from Lake Albert, meaning that the source of the Nile was not Lake Victoria as explorer John Speke had argued. Samuel Baker thought that Lake Albert might have an inlet from Lake Tanganyika. Livingstone thought that Lualaba was the source of the Nile. Being sponsored by the ''
New York Herald The ''New York Herald'' was a large-distribution newspaper based in New York City that existed between 1835 and 1924. At that point it was acquired by its smaller rival the ''New-York Tribune'' to form the '' New York Herald Tribune''. His ...
''—at the instigation of editor James Gordon Bennett Jr.—and ''The'' ''Daily Telegraph'' newspapers, Stanley he was expected to write dispatches for them. He subsequently wrote a book of his experiences, ''Through the Dark Continent''.


Preparations

On September 21, 1874, Stanley arrived in Zanzibar. He took with him three young Englishmen, Frederick Barker and the brothers Francis and Edward Pocock, and
Kalulu Ndugu M’Hali or Kalulu ( – 28 March 1877) was an African slave and adopted child of the explorer and journalist Henry Morton Stanley. Kalulu died young, but in his short life he visited Europe, America and the Seychelles. He had a book dedic ...
, an African he had taken to England on his earlier trip and who was educated briefly in England. He also took 60 pounds of cloth, copper wire and beads (Sami Sami) for trading, a barometer, watches and chronometers,
sextant A sextant is a doubly reflecting navigation instrument that measures the angular distance between two visible objects. The primary use of a sextant is to measure the angle between an astronomical object and the horizon for the purposes of celes ...
, compasses, photographic equipment,
Snider Snider may refer to: Places ;United States * Snider, West Virginia, an unincorporated community * Sniderville, Wisconsin, an unincorporated community Other uses * Snider (surname) *Snider–Enfield, a firearm See also *Snyder (disambiguation) *Sc ...
rifles and elephant gun(s), and the parts of a boat with single sail built by
James Messenger James Arthur Messenger (26 February 1826 in Twickenham – 21 June 1901 in Teddington) was the professional single sculls world champion from 1854 to 1857. He served as the Queen's Bargemaster from 1862 to 1901. He resided in Teddington. In 185 ...
. He named it the ''Lady Alice'' after his fiancée. In Zanzibar he recruited African porters to a total of 230 people, including 36 women and 10 boys. He recruited mainly from the Wangwana, Wanyamwezi and coast people from Mombasa.Stanley, H.M., 1899, Through the Dark Continent, London: G. Newnes, Vol. One , Vol. Two On November 12 he left in Zanzibar for the mainland. Five days later he left from
Bagamoyo Bagamoyo, is a historic coastal town founded at the end of the 18th century, though it is an extension of a much older (8th century) Swahili settlement, Kaole. It was chosen as the capital of German East Africa by the German colonial administra ...
. After fighting with Wanyaturu, they reached Lake Victoria on February 27, 1875, having traveled in 103 days. Sixty-two members of the party died en route, including Edward Pocock.


Circumnavigation of Lake Victoria

On March 8 Stanley, with ten sailors and a steersman, left his camp site near Kageghi in ''Lady Alice''. They explored and named Speke Bay, after the first European to see the lake. They also discovered the
Simiyu River The Simiyu River is a river located in Simiyu Region and Arusha Region, Tanzania. It flows into Lake Victoria in the African Great Lakes region. As one of the six main inlets to Lake Victoria, it forms part of the upper headwaters of the Nile. Th ...
inlet in the south. Passing Ukerewe Island, he was attacked by Wavuma people in canoes but escaped after firing at his attackers. On April 4 he landed on the northern bank near the Ripon Falls, the only outlet of the lake, which had been identified as the source of the Nile by Speke. He was received as a royal guest by
Muteesa I of Buganda Muteesa I Mukaabya Walugembe Kayiira (1837–9 October 1884) was the 30th Kabaka of the Kingdom of Buganda, from 1856 until 1884. Biography He was born at the Batandabezaala Palace, at Mulago, in 1837. He was the son of Kabaka Ssuuna II Kalema ...
. Stanley wrote that
Buganda Buganda is a Bantu peoples, Bantu kingdom within Uganda. The kingdom of the Baganda, Baganda people, Buganda is the largest of the traditional kingdoms in present-day East Africa, consisting of Buganda's Districts of Uganda, Central Region, inclu ...
would be an ideal country to establish missions and for European trade. On April 21 Stanley's party headed further southward. First they reached the inlet of the Kagera River, which they would later explore on their way to Lake Albert. In an attempt to get supplies of food, they landed on the island of Bumbireh. The local inhabitants alternated peace talks with thefts and threats, and stole their canoe paddles. Ultimately the crew escaped, killing some locals in the process. Later Stanley wrote that he killed 10 (and elsewhere 14) in his dispatches to newspapers. This would later be used to traduce his character as a ruthless killer. Why he misstated the number of deaths is not clear; his biographer Tim Jeal has tried to clarify. On May 5, the party arrived back in Kagehyi and rejoined the main group. In the meantime Barker had died of disease, as had Mabuki Speke (who was on earlier travels with Livingstone, Speke,
James Grant James Grant may refer to: Politics and law *Sir James Grant, 1st Baronet (died 1695), Scottish lawyer *Sir James Grant, 6th Baronet (1679–1747), Scottish Whig politician *Sir James Grant, 8th Baronet (1738–1811), Scottish member of parliament * ...
, and Burton). Stanley had spent 57 days exploring Lake Victoria. His detailed measurements and descriptions led to a major revision of its geography. He established that the Kagera River was its main inflow, and that it was above sea level, with a maximum depth of .


Lake Albert

Stanley intended to explore Lake Albert next. However, war between Uganda and Wavuma forced him either to "renounce the project of exploring the Albert, and proceed at once to the Tanganika...or to wait patiently until the war was over." After the war ended with an Ugandan victory, however, his expedition was thwarted by Kabarega, king of the Bunyoro.


Lake Tanganyika

On May 27, 1876, the party arrived in Ujiji on the shore of Lake Tanganyika, the village where Stanley had famously met Livingstone a few years before. Their objective was to survey the lake, seeking inlets and outlets. By July 31 the of the lake perimeter was charted. Its main outlet was found to be the Lukuga River on the western shore. The depth of the lake was measured to be in excess of .


Rivers Lualaba and Congo

The final objective was to determine whether the Lualaba River fed the Nile, the Congo or even the Niger. On August 25, 1876, Stanley left Ujiji with an expedition of 132, crossing the lake westward to
Manyema Manyema (WaManyema) (Una-Ma-Nyema, eaters of flesh), are a powerful and, in the past, warlike Bantu people in the southeast of the Congo basin in Nyangwe ( Kasongo) in Maniema, Democratic Republic of Congo and in the city of Kigoma, Kigoma regio ...
, to enter the heart of Africa. In October they reached the
confluence In geography, a confluence (also: ''conflux'') occurs where two or more flowing bodies of water join to form a single channel. A confluence can occur in several configurations: at the point where a tributary joins a larger river (main stem); o ...
of the Luama River and the Lualaba River. Entering Manyema, they were in a lawless area containing cannibal tribes. Tippu Tip based his source of slaves here. Also, Livingstone had witnessed a massacre of Africans here and did not succeed in getting any further. Nor had Vernon Cameron in 1874. However Stanley reached a contract with Tippu Tip, in which they agreed to accompany each other for "sixty marches-each march of four hours' duration." They reached Nyangwe on October 28. The party left Nyangwe overland and entered the dense Matimba forest on November 6. On November 19 they reached the Lualaba again where Stanley proceeded downstream with ''Lady Alice'', and Tippu Tip kept pace on the eastern shore. They traversed through the lands of the cannibal Wenya. Though he attempted to negotiate a peaceful thoroughfare, the tribes were wary as their only experience of outsiders was of slave traders. They reached Kindu on December 5, 1876, but it was not until they reached Vinya-Njara that Stanley could conclude a " blood-brotherhood" with the natives and peace ensued. Tippu Tip left Stanley at this point, while Stanley departed downstream on December 28 with 149 men, women and children on 23 canoes. On January 6, 1877, after , they reached Boyoma Falls (called Stanley Falls for some time after), consisting of seven cataracts spanning , and the confluence of the Lomami River. It took them until January 28 to reach the end of the falls, sometimes passing overland and having to defend themselves from attacks by the cannibal natives. Stanley reached the confluence of the
Aruwimi River The Aruwimi River is a tributary of the Congo River, located to the north and east of the Congo.Stanley, H.M., 1899, Through the Dark Continent, London: G. Newnes, Vol. One , Vol. Two The Aruwimi begins as the Ituri River, which rises near Lake ...
on February 1 and then the land of the Bemberri cannibals. Finally at the village of Rubunga, they were able to enter into a blood-brotherhood with the natives. Here Stanley learned that the river was called ''Ikuta ya Kongo'', proving to him that he had reached the Congo, and that the Lualaba did not feed the Nile. Stanley was then attacked by the Urangi and then the Marunja, both of whom possessed Portuguese muskets. His thirty-first fight along the river was with the Bangala on February 14, facing 63 canoes and 315 muskets. On February 18 they reached the confluence of the
Ikelemba River The Ikelemba River is a river in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It is a left tributary of the Congo River. Location The Ikelemba River flows in an arc from east to west. It is navigable for from Bombimba to where it enters the Congo River ...
and were able to trade at Ikengo. By February 26 they reached
Bolobo Bolobo is a town on the Congo River in Mai-Ndombe Province in the western part of the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). It is the administrative center of Bolobo Territory. As of 2009 it had an estimated population of 31,366. People The p ...
, where they were welcomed by the king of Chumbiri. They reached the confluence of the
Lefini River Lefini River is a river of the Republic of Congo and a tributary of the Congo River. Henry Morton Stanley reached the confluence In geography, a confluence (also: ''conflux'') occurs where two or more flowing bodies of water join to form a s ...
and the Kasai River with the Congo on March 9. This was the location of their thirty-second and last fight. On March 12, they reached Stanley Pool (now Pool Malebo). Here Stanley met with Mankoneh, the Bateke chief and Itsi, chief of the Ntamo, forming a blood-brotherhood. This is the site of the present day cities
Kinshasa Kinshasa (; ; ln, Kinsásá), formerly Léopoldville ( nl, Leopoldstad), is the capital and largest city of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Once a site of fishing and trading villages situated along the Congo River, Kinshasa is now one o ...
and
Brazzaville Brazzaville (, kg, Kintamo, Nkuna, Kintambo, Ntamo, Mavula, Tandala, Mfwa, Mfua; Teke: ''M'fa'', ''Mfaa'', ''Mfa'', ''Mfoa''Roman Adrian Cybriwsky, ''Capital Cities around the World: An Encyclopedia of Geography, History, and Culture'', ABC-CLI ...
, capitals of the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the
Republic of the Congo The Republic of the Congo (french: République du Congo, ln, Republíki ya Kongó), also known as Congo-Brazzaville, the Congo Republic or simply either Congo or the Congo, is a country located in the western coast of Central Africa to the w ...
. Further downstream were the Livingstone Falls, downstream from Nyangwe, a series of 32 falls and rapids with a fall of over . On March 16 they started the descent of the falls, which cost numerous lives, including those of Frank Pocock and Kalulu, his England-educated servant. On 30 July, Stanley stated, "We drew our boat and canoes into a sandy-edged basin in the low rocky terrace, and proceeded to view the cataract of
Isangila Isangila, formerly called Isanghila or Isanguila is the headquarters of a sector of the Seke-Banza territory in Kongo Central province of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Location The lower part of the Congo River below Stanley Pool first de ...
." Only five days' journey from Boma, Stanley stated, "I saw no reason to follow it farther, or to expend the little remaining vitality we possessed in toiling through the last four cataracts." On August 3 they reached the village of Nsanda. From there Stanley sent forward four trusted men to Boma with letters in English, French and Spanish, asking them to send food for his starving people. On August 6 relief came, being sent by representatives from the Liverpool trading firm Hatton & Cookson. August 9 they reached Boma, 999 days since leaving Zanzibar on November 12, 1874. The party then consisted of 115 people, including three children born during the trip. Most probably (Stanley's own publications give inconsistent figures), he lost 132 people through disease, hunger, drowning, killing and desertion. Some 18 deserted, a low figure given the dangers of the country they had crossed.Jeal, 2007 p. 217.


Return

In Boma he mailed his editor Bennett in New York to send money for his party and arrange homeward travel. He also learned through his publisher that his fiancée Alice had married another man. They left Boma for Kabinda, arriving on August 12. Eventually the party went to Luanda, Angola, arriving on September 28. From there they went on to Simon's Town on October 21, and finally Zanzibar, via HMS ''Industry'', arriving on November 26. On December 13, Stanley left Zanzibar on SS ''Pachumba'' for home, being carried on his men's shoulders to the longboat ferrying him to the ship. In articles about his discoveries he urged Western powers to organise trade with Central Africa and reduce the slave trade in the interior. Stanley's book ''Through the Dark Continent'', describing his journey, was published in 1878 and was a great success.


Notes


References

* * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Stanley, Trans-Africa Henry Morton Stanley Lake Victoria Lake Tanganyika Lualaba River Congo River New York Herald 1870s in Africa 1874 in Africa 1877 in Africa