Haramosh Peak (; also known as Haramosh or Peak 58) is a
mountain
A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. Although definitions vary, a mountain may differ from a plateau in having a limited Summit (topography), summit area, and ...
located in the
Karakoram
The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the ...
range
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* Range (geographic), a chain of hills or mountains; a somewhat linear, complex mountainous or hilly area (cordillera, sierra)
** Mountain range, a group of mountains bordered by lowlands
* Range, a term used to i ...
of the
Gilgit-Baltistan
Gilgit-Baltistan (; ), formerly known as the Northern Areas, is a region administered by Pakistan as an administrative territory, and constituting the northern portion of the larger Kashmir region which has been the subject of a dispute bet ...
of
Pakistan
Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...
. The Total population of haramosh Vellay at least 8000 people.according to researchers. Its height is also often given as 7,409m.
Haramosh lies about east of Gilgit, in the south-central region of the
Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains
The Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains are a subrange of the Karakoram range. They are located in the Bagrot Valley Gilgit and Nagar Districts, in the Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan. Geography
Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains are bordered by Barpu and t ...
, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It rises steeply above the north bank of the
Indus River
The Indus ( ) is a transboundary river of Asia and a trans-Himalayan river of South and Central Asia. The river rises in mountain springs northeast of Mount Kailash in Western Tibet, flows northwest through the disputed region of Kashmir, ...
, a little ways upstream of its confluence with the
Gilgit River
The Gilgit River () is a tributary of the Indus River, and flows through the Gupis-Yasin, Ghizer and Gilgit districts of Gilgit-Baltistan. The Gilgit River starts from Shandur Lake, and joins the Indus River at near towns of Juglot and Bunji, ...
. The
massif
In geology, a massif ( or ) is a section of a planet's crust that is demarcated by faults or flexures. In the movement of the crust, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole. The term also refers to a ...
has two summits, Haramosh Peak and Haramosh Kutwal Laila Peak. The peak was first scaled in 1958 by an Austrian team consisting of Heini Roiss, Stephan Pauer, and Dr. Franz Mandl.
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Climbing history
Haramosh was first reconnoitered in 1947 by a Swiss
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*Swiss-system tournament, in various games and sports
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team, and a German
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team investigated a northeastern route in 1955. In 1957, Tony Streather
Lieutenant-Colonel Harry Reginald Antony Streather (24 March 1926 – 31 October 2018) was a British Army officer who served in the Gloucestershire Regiment, and mountaineer who first-ascended the third-highest mountain in the world, on the ...
, John Emery, Bernard Jillot and Rae Culbert, a team from Oxford University
Oxford () is a city in England. It is the county town and only city of Oxfordshire. In 2020, its population was estimated at 151,584. It is north-west of London, south-east of Birmingham and north-east of Bristol. The city is home to the ...
experienced repeated falls and misfortunes during a failed attempt, leading to the deaths of Jillot and Culbert. Streather and Emery survived. The latter suffered severe frostbite and lost all of his fingers and toes.
The epic tale of this expedition is told in Ralph Barker's ''The Last Blue Mountain''.
Haramosh was first climbed on 4 August 1958 by three Austrian
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mountaineers, Heinrich Roiss, Stefan Pauer and Franz Mandl, via the Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) and the East Ridge, roughly the route of the 1957 tragedy.
According to the Himalayan Index,[ there have been only three more ascents, in 1978 (Japanese, West Ridge), 1979 (unknown party/route), and 1988 (]Polish
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, Southwest Face).
References
Sources
*
*
*
External links
Picture of the Haramosh south face
ranked by local relief and steepness (Reduced Spire Measure) features Haramosh as the world #17.
{{Authority control
Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram
Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan