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Grey Lynn is an inner suburb of
Auckland Auckland (pronounced ) ( mi, Tāmaki Makaurau) is a large metropolitan city in the North Island of New Zealand. The most populous urban area in the country and the fifth largest city in Oceania, Auckland has an urban population of about I ...
,
New Zealand New Zealand ( mi, Aotearoa ) is an island country in the southwestern Pacific Ocean. It consists of two main landmasses—the North Island () and the South Island ()—and over 700 smaller islands. It is the sixth-largest island coun ...
, located to the west of the city centre. Originally a separate borough, Grey Lynn amalgamated with Auckland City in 1914. Grey Lynn is centred on Grey Lynn Park, which was not part of the original subdivision of 1883, since the land was too steep and too wet for house construction. In 1914 the land was drained and levelled for playing fields. The park is home to the annual Grey Lynn Park Festival, which attracts around 100,000 visitors on the third Saturday in November. The character of the area is often seen as "arty", and one of being a "traditional home to free-thinkers and anti-establishment types".


Demographics

Grey Lynn covers and had an estimated population of as of with a population density of people per km2. Grey Lynn had a population of 11,733 at the
2018 New Zealand census Eighteen or 18 may refer to: * 18 (number), the natural number following 17 and preceding 19 * one of the years 18 BC, AD 18, 1918, 2018 Film, television and entertainment * ''18'' (film), a 1993 Taiwanese experimental film based on the short ...
, an increase of 891 people (8.2%) since the 2013 census, and an increase of 1,491 people (14.6%) since the 2006 census. There were 4,173 households, comprising 5,751 males and 5,985 females, giving a sex ratio of 0.96 males per female, with 1,695 people (14.4%) aged under 15 years, 3,291 (28.0%) aged 15 to 29, 5,994 (51.1%) aged 30 to 64, and 753 (6.4%) aged 65 or older. Ethnicities were 78.7% European/
Pākehā Pākehā (or Pakeha; ; ) is a Māori term for New Zealanders primarily of European descent. Pākehā is not a legal concept and has no definition under New Zealand law. The term can apply to fair-skinned persons, or to any non-Māori New Z ...
, 9.7%
Māori Māori or Maori can refer to: Relating to the Māori people * Māori people of New Zealand, or members of that group * Māori language, the language of the Māori people of New Zealand * Māori culture * Cook Islanders, the Māori people of the Co ...
, 12.4% Pacific peoples, 9.8% Asian, and 3.4% other ethnicities. People may identify with more than one ethnicity. The percentage of people born overseas was 29.6, compared with 27.1% nationally. Although some people chose not to answer the census's question about religious affiliation, 60.5% had no religion, 28.2% were
Christian Christians () are people who follow or adhere to Christianity, a monotheistic Abrahamic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus Christ. The words ''Christ'' and ''Christian'' derive from the Koine Greek title ''Christós'' (Χρι� ...
, 0.5% had Māori religious beliefs, 1.6% were
Hindu Hindus (; ) are people who religiously adhere to Hinduism. Jeffery D. Long (2007), A Vision for Hinduism, IB Tauris, , pages 35–37 Historically, the term has also been used as a geographical, cultural, and later religious identifier for ...
, 0.9% were
Muslim Muslims ( ar, المسلمون, , ) are people who adhere to Islam, a monotheistic religion belonging to the Abrahamic tradition. They consider the Quran, the foundational religious text of Islam, to be the verbatim word of the God of Abrah ...
, 1.0% were
Buddhist Buddhism ( , ), also known as Buddha Dharma and Dharmavinaya (), is an Indian religion or philosophical tradition based on teachings attributed to the Buddha. It originated in northern India as a -movement in the 5th century BCE, and ...
and 2.7% had other religions. Of those at least 15 years old, 4,884 (48.7%) people had a bachelor's or higher degree, and 564 (5.6%) people had no formal qualifications. 3,432 people (34.2%) earned over $70,000 compared to 17.2% nationally. The employment status of those at least 15 was that 6,591 (65.7%) people were employed full-time, 1,392 (13.9%) were part-time, and 318 (3.2%) were unemployed.


History

Grey Lynn takes the first part of its name from Sir
George Grey Sir George Grey, KCB (14 April 1812 – 19 September 1898) was a British soldier, explorer, colonial administrator and writer. He served in a succession of governing positions: Governor of South Australia, twice Governor of New Zealand, ...
(14 April 1812 – 19 September 1898), who served as
Governor of South Australia The governor of South Australia is the representative in South Australia of the Monarch of Australia, currently King Charles III. The governor performs the same constitutional and ceremonial functions at the state level as does the governor-gen ...
, twice
Governor of New Zealand The governor-general of New Zealand ( mi, te kāwana tianara o Aotearoa) is the viceregal representative of the monarch of New Zealand, currently King Charles III. As the King is concurrently the monarch of 14 other Commonwealth realms and l ...
,
Governor of Cape Colony This article lists the governors of British South African colonies, including the colonial prime ministers. It encompasses the period from 1797 to 1910, when present-day South Africa was divided into four British colonies namely: Cape Colony ...
(part of what is now South Africa),
Premier of New Zealand The prime minister of New Zealand ( mi, Te pirimia o Aotearoa) is the head of government of New Zealand. The prime minister, Jacinda Ardern, leader of the New Zealand Labour Party, took office on 26 October 2017. The prime minister (informa ...
, and towards the end of his life, Member of
Parliament In modern politics, and history, a parliament is a legislative body of government. Generally, a modern parliament has three functions: representing the electorate, making laws, and overseeing the government via hearings and inquiries. Th ...
for Auckland West. Grey's service as member of parliament for the area was apparently widely appreciated, since following his retirement from politics and death in 1898 the north-western portion of the suburb of Newton was renamed Grey Lynn in his honour. The original subdivision was , which is still the formal extent of Grey Lynn. Most of the houses were built between the 1880s and the beginning of the
First World War World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was List of wars and anthropogenic disasters by death toll, one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, ...
of 1914–1918. Very few of the houses have been completely replaced by new structures. Thomas Crummer owned Surrey Hills farm in the area, and left it to his children and his business partner, James Williamson. Williamson bought the Crummer's children's share in the land. In 1883, Williamson sold the property to the Auckland Agricultural Company. The Surrey Hills Estate was subdivided into 272 building sections to form the neighbourhood between Surrey Crescent and the southern end of
Ponsonby Road Ponsonby is an inner-city suburb of Auckland located 2 km west of the Auckland CBD. The suburb is oriented along a ridge running north–south, which is followed by the main street of the suburb, Ponsonby Road. A predominantly upper-middle ...
. Two major roads in Grey Lynn, Williamson Avenue and Crummer Road are named after the two men. The developers largely laid out Grey Lynn's streets as straight roads (as opposed to the earlier farm roads such as Richmond Road, which twists and turns following the curve of the landscape). Several street-names echo the names of early landowners; Williamson, Crummer, Mckelvie, Pollen, and Prime. But there is a prevalence of cultural personages from Britain: Sir
John Millais Sir John Everett Millais, 1st Baronet, ( , ; 8 June 1829 – 13 August 1896) was an English painter and illustrator who was one of the founders of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood. He was a child prodigy who, aged eleven, became the youngest ...
, Lord Elgin, Alfred Lord Leighton,
Coleridge Samuel Taylor Coleridge (; 21 October 177225 July 1834) was an English poet, literary critic, philosopher, and theologian who, with his friend William Wordsworth, was a founder of the Romantic Movement in England and a member of the Lake ...
, the Earl of
Beaconsfield Beaconsfield ( ) is a market town and civil parish within the unitary authority of Buckinghamshire, England, west-northwest of central London and south-southeast of Aylesbury. Three other towns are within : Gerrards Cross, Amersham and High W ...
, Dr Arnold,
Dickens Charles John Huffam Dickens (; 7 February 1812 – 9 June 1870) was an English writer and social critic. He created some of the world's best-known fictional characters and is regarded by many as the greatest novelist of the Victorian er ...
, and
Dryden '' John Dryden (; – ) was an English poet, literary critic, translator, and playwright who in 1668 was appointed England's first Poet Laureate. He is seen as dominating the literary life of Restoration England to such a point that the per ...
. This was obviously intended to give an artistic ambience to the area. Most of the houses in the area were built between the 1880s and the beginning of the First World War. They were constructed quickly and with little variation in layout. Their façades were differentiated by the application of mass-produced items; wooden fretwork, stained-glass panels, turned balusters and pressed tin (intended for interior ceilings – this "new" product occasionally appears on the gable ends of some villas). The most important feature was the
bay window A bay window is a window space projecting outward from the main walls of a building and forming a bay in a room. Types Bay window is a generic term for all protruding window constructions, regardless of whether they are curved or angular, or ...
—hence the name " Bay Villa"—an important feature which marked the owner as middle class. The new inhabitants tended to be younger married couples, employed in jobs such as clerks and office workers, teachers or skilled crafts-people. The adjacent area north of Richmond Road was probably similar. This was different from the nearby working-class area of
Freeman's Bay Freemans Bay is the name of a former bay and now inner city suburb of Auckland, in the North Island of New Zealand. The bay has been filled in to a considerable extent, with the reclamation area now totally concealing the ancient shoreline. His ...
or from the upper-middle-class area of Herne Bay. By the 1930s and 1940s the original owners were beginning to age and the fussily detailed houses of Grey Lynn on their cramped sections were seen as very old-fashioned and undesirable. The increased ownership of motorcars meant suburban development was expanding exponentially, resulting in the mid-20th century ideal of the quarter-acre section. All the inner suburbs of Auckland became less desirable, and areas like Grey Lynn became very rundown. Many properties became owned by people who lived elsewhere and were often divided into flats or operated as boarding houses. Repairs were kept to a minimum and in some cases houses were not repainted for almost half a century. The fact that so many houses of this period still stand today despite the depredations of fire, rot and borer is an indication of how well they were built. By the 1950s the very low rents in places like Grey Lynn and Ponsonby attracted students and
immigrant worker Foreign workers or guest workers are people who work in a country other than one of which they are a citizen. Some foreign workers use a guest worker program in a country with more preferred job prospects than in their home country. Guest worker ...
s from the
Pacific Islands Collectively called the Pacific Islands, the islands in the Pacific Ocean are further categorized into three major island groups: Melanesia, Micronesia, and Polynesia. Depending on the context, the term ''Pacific Islands'' may refer to one of se ...
. By the 1960s Grey Lynn had developed a definite Polynesian flavour. Although in recent years this has greatly diminished, there are still a large number of Tongan and Samoan churches in the area. The 1970s saw a renewed interest in older Victorian properties, and from that period onwards many
young professional The term ''young professional'' generally refers to young people between 20 and 40 who are employed in a profession or white-collar occupation. The meaning may be ambiguous"I am not sure what "young professionals" means...''After the storm: Amer ...
s began buying dilapidated kauri villas in areas like Grey Lynn and renovating them. On 3 December 1981 a landslide destroyed homes around Herringson Avenue and Shirley Road. From the early 1990s this
gentrification Gentrification is the process of changing the character of a neighborhood through the influx of more affluent residents and businesses. It is a common and controversial topic in urban politics and planning. Gentrification often increases the ...
began to visibly change the area, resulting in an increase in house prices and in higher rents. Major corporate projects have gradually replaced lower-end retail enterprises. An influx of middle-class people has resulted in a reduction of student flats and the slow but steady displacement of Polynesian families. A number of recent
housing development A housing estate (or sometimes housing complex or housing development) is a group of homes and other buildings built together as a single development. The exact form may vary from country to country. Popular throughout the United States ...
s in the suburb have attracted controversy for their perceived contribution to the area's increasing population density.


Mayors (1885–1914)

Grey Lynn had a local government like other suburbs of Auckland at that time. The local government was called Grey Lynn Borough Council, which started in 1885 and in July 1914 merged into
Auckland City Council Auckland City Council was the local government authority for Auckland City, New Zealand, from 1871 to 1 November 2010, when it and Auckland's six other city and district councils were amalgamated to form the Auckland Council. It was an elected b ...
and then merged into
Auckland Council Auckland Council ( mi, Te Kaunihera o Tāmaki Makaurau) is the local government council for the Auckland Region in New Zealand. It is a territorial authority that has the responsibilities, duties and powers of a regional council and so is a ...
in 2010. *Richard T. Warnock, 1885–1887 *F. J. Jones, 1887–1888 *S. J. Ambury, 1888–1890 *Samuel Carey Brown, 1890–1893 *Thomas English, 1893–1894 *Richard T. Warnock, 1894–1896 *John Wisdom Shackelford, 1896–1899 *Richard T. Warnock, 1899–1903 *John Wisdom Shackelford, 1903–1904 *John Farrell, 1904–1907 *George Sayers, 1907–1909 *William John Holdsworth, 1909–1912 *George Baildon, 1912–1914


Events

The Grey Lynn Park Festival has been held in early summer in Grey Lynn Park since 1984, and celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2009. It is the last independent community event in the city. The event, which attracts on average 100,000 visitors each year, is organised by four people who raise money from stall fees and charitable grants. It started as a local community get-together with working-class and Pasifika roots, though the appeal has broadened through the decades. Local band
Unity Pacific Tigilau Ness (born c. 1954) is a Niuean New Zealand activist and reggae artist, and performs as Unity Pacific. Ness is a political activist and first generation Pacific Island New Zealander. Lifetime achievement award In May 2009, Ness was presen ...
first performed at the festival in 1987, and have appeared many times since. They headlined in 2009.


Education and sports

Grey Lynn School and Newton Central School are contributing primary (years 1-6) schools with rolls of and , respectively. St Joseph's School is a Catholic state-integrated full primary (years 1-8) school with a roll of . All these schools are coeducational. Rolls are as of Secondary schools serving the area include
Auckland Girls' Grammar School "Through trials to triumph" , colours = gold, navy blue , type = State single-sex girls' secondary school (Years 9–13) , established = 1878 , address = Howe Street, Newton, Auckland , coordinates = , principal = Ngaire Ashmore ...
,
Mount Albert Grammar School Mount Albert Grammar School, commonly known as MAGS, is a co-educational state secondary school in Mount Albert in Auckland, New Zealand. It teaches students in year levels 9 to 13. , Mount Albert Grammar School is the second largest school in ...
, and
Western Springs College Western Springs College ( mi, Nga Puna O Waiorea) is a state co-educational secondary school located in Western Springs, an inner suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. The school educates approximately students, from Years 9 to 13 (ages 13 to 18). ...
. Grey Lynn Park is the home ground of the
Richmond Rovers The Richmond Rovers Rugby League Club is a rugby league club based in Grey Lynn, New Zealand. The premier team is called the Richmond Bulldogs and compete in Auckland Rugby League's Fox Memorial competition. Early history The club was formed in ...
rugby league club.


Transport

The suburb is served by public transport. It lies within walking distance of the central business district via Ponsonby. Buses run down Great North Road, Richmond Road, Surrey Crescent and Williamson Avenue.


Notable buildings

* Grey Lynn Fire Station: The former Borough Council Chambers and Fire Station. This building is distinguished by a wooden spire (recently restored) which originally housed the fire bell. Standing at the Ponsonby Road end of Williamson Avenue, this brick building dates from 1889, was designed by John Mitchell. It resembles many American fire stations of the period. The upstairs was used as the Borough Council Chamber until the suburb was amalgamated with Auckland City in 1914. * Former Auckland Savings Bank: Located on Ponsonby Road near the intersection with
Karangahape Road Karangahape Road (commonly known as K' Road) is one of the main streets in the central business district (CBD) of Auckland, New Zealand. The massive expansion of motorways through the nearby inner city area – and subsequent flight of resident ...
. This italianate building was designed in 1885 by
Edward Bartley Edward Bartley (23 February 1839 – 28 May 1919) was a Jersey-born New Zealand architect. Beginning as a builder, Bartley transitioned into a career as an architect, not an uncommon occurrence in the 19th century. He is responsible for design ...
– originally a single story building it received a second story designed by the same architect in 1900. The former banking chamber is distinguished by the use of New Zealand marble. In the 1920s the lower part of the room was lined with panelling made of Cloudy Bay Marble from Nelson. Currently occupied by an Art Gallery. * Allendale House: At the corner of Crummer Road and Ponsonby Road stands the large 1890s Italianate Mansion of George Allen, a saddle and harness maker. "Allendale" is a local landmark, having been successively a doctor's surgery, Maori girls hostel, boarding house, refuge for alcoholic men, and a restaurant. In the 1989 it was purchased by the ASB Community Trust as its headquarters and restored. *
Carlile House Carlile House, formerly Costley Training Institute, was a boys' home and training centre, built in 1886. It was enabled by a bequest of £12,500 from Edward Costley. It was originally bequest to the Kohimarama Training School, however, the Kohim ...
: A large
Italianate The Italianate style was a distinct 19th-century phase in the history of Classical architecture. Like Palladianism and Neoclassicism, the Italianate style drew its inspiration from the models and architectural vocabulary of 16th-century Italian ...
building at 84 Richmond Road, designed by Robert Jones Roberts. Built in 1886 as an industrial school named the Costley Training Institute as part of the bequest of
Edward Costley Edward Costley (1794 – 18 April 1883) was a New Zealand philanthropist. Costley was born in Ireland to John and Anne Costley. Costley was known among the "old identities" of Auckland as a man of rather penurious and retiring habits, who had a ...
who left money for several Auckland charities. Owned by the adjacent church, it is now in poor condition and vandalised. The original stables are still visible on the Chamberlain Street side. * Grey Lynn Public Library: Located at the Surrey Crescent shop at 474 Great North Road. This Neo-Georgian building was designed by architect
William Gummer William Henry Gummer (7 December 1884 – 13 December 1966) was a New Zealand architect. Gummer was born in Auckland, New Zealand, in 1884. He studied architecture at the Royal Academy of Arts from 1909 to 1912 and during that time worked ...
, and was opened in December 1924 by the then Mayor Sir
James Gunson Sir James Henry Gunson (26 October 1877 – 12 May 1963) was a New Zealand businessman and Mayor of Auckland City The Mayor of Auckland City was the directly elected head of the Auckland City Council, the municipal government of Auckland C ...
. It continues to be used as a public library and community hall today, and the inside now includes murals painted by artist Murray Grimsdale. * Former Cameo Cinema: Located at the Surrey Crescent shops, built in 1928, this Art-Deco building has been subdivided into several spaces and is occupied by a variety of businesses. The arched entrance is still a feature of the streetscape facing down Great North Road towards Western Springs. * St Joseph's Church: Located on the Great North Road at Surrey Crescent. This modernist Roman Catholic Church from 1958 was designed by Guy Chambers and is distinguished by stained glass windows by
Milan Mrkusich Milan Mrkusich (5 April 1925 – 13 June 2018) was a New Zealand artist and designer. He was considered a pioneer of abstract painting in New Zealand. Retrospective exhibitions of his work were organised by the Auckland Art Gallery in 1972 and 19 ...
. * St Joseph's Convent: Adjacent to the church on Great North Road is a school with modern buildings. One building is the former Convent built in the 1920s to replace an earlier wooden structure which burnt down. It is currently used as a hostel.


References


Bibliography

*''The Heart of Colonial Auckland, 1865–1910''. Terence Hodgson. Random Century NZ Ltd 1992. *''Colonial Architecture In New Zealand''. John Stacpoole. A.H & A.W Reed 1976 *''Decently And In Order, The Centennial History of the Auckland City Council''. G.W.A Bush. Collins 1971. *''Auckland Through A Victorian Lens''. William Main. Millwood Press 1977. *''Ponsonby Heritage Walks''. Tania Mace. Ponsonby Road Productions 2005. *''High hopes in hard times : a history of Grey Lynn and Westmere''. Kaaren Hiyama. Media Studies Trust 1991.


External links


Grey Lynn Online
(business association website)
Grey Lynn Park FestivalGrey Lynn Residents Association website
held in Auckland Libraries' heritage collections. {{Waitematā Local Board Area Suburbs of Auckland Waitematā Local Board Area