Gig-mill
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A gig-mill (gigging machine, napping machine) was type of raising machine that used
teasels ''Dipsacus'' is a genus of flowering plant in the family Caprifoliaceae. The members of this genus are known as teasel, teazel or teazle. The genus includes about 15 species of tall herbaceous biennial plants (rarely short-lived perennial plants ...
to produce a
nap A nap is a short period of sleep, typically taken during daytime hours as an adjunct to the usual nocturnal sleep period. Naps are most often taken as a response to drowsiness during waking hours. A nap is a form of biphasic or polyphasic sl ...
on cloth. Examples of the results of gigging are woolen fabrics such as chinchilla,
beaver cloth Beaver cloth is a heavy woolen cloth with a napped surface. Beaver is a double cloth; it resembles felted beaver-fur and is suitable for outer garments such as coats and hats. The fabric was formerly made in England. Castor Castor was a cl ...
, and melton. The process involved gradual teasing of the surface to raise the nap.


Gigging

Gigging was an old method of raising. As with flannelette, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teasels during ''Gigging'' to elevate the surface fibers, providing hairiness and lustrous nap. The fabric gets a soft feel. Teasels from a
plant Plants are predominantly photosynthetic eukaryotes of the kingdom Plantae. Historically, the plant kingdom encompassed all living things that were not animals, and included algae and fungi; however, all current definitions of Plantae exclud ...
, a thistle-like species, were once used to make it. These were fixed to a cylinder. Later, teasels were replaced by metallic wires similar to those used in
carding machine Carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibres between differentially moving surfaces covered wit ...
s.


Napped fabrics

"Napping", "raising" and "gigging" are synonymous terms. Napping is the process of brushing for raising the
nap A nap is a short period of sleep, typically taken during daytime hours as an adjunct to the usual nocturnal sleep period. Naps are most often taken as a response to drowsiness during waking hours. A nap is a form of biphasic or polyphasic sl ...
. The raising method is used to draw out the ends of the fibers. Examples of napped fabrics include Brushed tricot, and Flannelette.


Nap

Nap in textiles refers to the raised surface.


Gallery

File:Dipsacus-fullonum-Teasel-seedhead-w-viviparous-germination-PortSunlightRiverPark-UK-23Oct2019.jpg, Seedhead of Dipsacus fullonum (common teasel) showing seeds germinating while still in seedhead (vivipary) File:PSM V39 D473 Heads of fuller and wild teasel.jpg, Heads of fuller and wild teasel used in finishing wool fabrics File:Meyers b13 s0606 b1.png, Gigging machine File:Mendel II 080 r.jpg, Manual process of raising pile in the textiles File:EB1911 - Finishing - Fig. 7.jpg, Teasel used for Raising


See also

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Shearing (textiles) Shearing is a kind of mechanical finish in which the appearance of the fabric is enhanced by cutting the loops or raised surface to a uniform and even height. The machine may have a spiral blade similar to a grass cutting machine. A Shearing mach ...
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Aachen fine cloth The textile industry in Aachen has a history that dates back to the Middle Ages. The Imperial city of Aachen was the main woolen center of the Rhineland. Certain kind of woolens made there were illustrated as "Aachen fine cloth (german: Aachen ...


References

Textiles Textile techniques Textile arts {{textile-stub