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Gianfranco Ferré (; 15 August 1944 – 17 June 2007) was an Italian fashion designer also known as "the architect of fashion" for his background and his original attitude toward creating fashion design.


Early life and education

Ferré was born on 15 August 1944 in
Legnano Legnano (; or ''Lignàn'') is an Italian town and ''comune'' in the north-westernmost part of the Metropolitan City of Milan, Province of Milan, about from central Milan. With 60,259, it is the thirteenth-most populous township in Lombardy. Le ...
, near
Milan Milan ( , , Lombard: ; it, Milano ) is a city in northern Italy, capital of Lombardy, and the second-most populous city proper in Italy after Rome. The city proper has a population of about 1.4 million, while its metropolitan city ...
in
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, in northern Italy, the first child of Luigi Ferré and Andrea Morosi. He attended the '' liceo scientifico'' of Legnano, and then, from 1963, studied
architecture Architecture is the art and technique of designing and building, as distinguished from the skills associated with construction. It is both the process and the product of sketching, conceiving, planning, designing, and constructing buildings ...
at the
Polytechnic University of Milan The Polytechnic University of Milan () is the largest technical university in Italy, with about 42,000 students. The university offers undergraduate, graduate and higher education courses in engineering, architecture and design. Founded in ...
in central Milan, where he graduated in 1969.


Career

Ferré began his fashion career in 1970 by designing accessories, then worked as a raincoat designer in 1972–74. He started his own company Baila in 1974,BBC Italian fashion idol Ferre dies
''BBC'', June 17, 2007
and launched his signature collection for women in 1978. His first men's collection appeared in 1982, followed in 1986 by his first couture collection in Rome. Ferré became Stylistic Director of
Christian Dior Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Christian Dior SE, which is now owned by parent company LVMH. His fashion houses ...
in Paris in 1989, when he was chosen by owner Bernard Arnault to replace
Marc Bohan Marc Roger Maurice Louis Bohan (born 22 August 1926) is a French fashion designer, best known for his 30-year career at the house of Dior. Early life and career Bohan was born in Paris and grew up in Sceaux. As a child, Marc Bohan was encoura ...
. In 1996, it was announced that Ferré would end his engagement with Dior with the Spring 1997 collection for the label. His own label is more relaxed and pared-down than Dior. Sophisticated white shirts have become the symbol of his personal signature in fashion design.


Personal life

Ferré appeared to be extremely critical of trends and fashion gimmicks. He dealt with his demanding schedule, being responsible for a French top fashion brand and his own Italian label, by commuting between Milan and Paris in his private plane. Ferré had a lakeside home in Lake Maggiore, near Milan.


Product lines

* Gianfranco Ferré: Main line for men, women and children * Ferré: Previously known as the White Label, more practical, ready-to-wear for both men, women. Within this line, there are Ferré Red (for plus size) and Ferré Fur. For Ferré men there is also Ferré Underwear. * GF Ferré: Younger, more sporty line, for men, women * Gianfranco Ferré Fragrances * Ferre Milano: Casual line for women and men * Ferre designed Korean Air's flight attendant uniforms in 2005, using Korean "binyeo" traditional hair accessories.


Awards

Ferré won a number of prestigious awards including the L'Occhio d'Oro during his career: * Occhio d'Oro Award (six times) for Best Italian Designer * Gold Medal from the City of Milan * Commendatore del Ordine decoration from the President of the Italian Republic * De d'Or (Golden Thimble Award) for his first Dior haute couture collection (1989)


Gianfranco Ferré S.p.A.


Ownership

The Gianfranco Ferré S.p.A. is the holding company that coordinates the fashion business of the Ferré label. It was owned by Gianfranco Ferré (Creative Director) and Franco Mattioli (Chief Financial Officer) in equal shares until it was sold to IT Holdings in March 2002. Recently, Ferré announced that the group plans to become listed at the
Milan stock exchange Borsa Italiana, based in Milan, is the Italian stock exchange. It manages and organises domestic market, regulating procedures for admission and listing of companies and intermediaries and supervising disclosures for listed companies.italy24.i ...
. In order to prepare for this movement Ferré started to rearrange the holding significantly. First step was the recruitment of experienced management personnel under the guide of Giuseppe Cipriano. Next step is the reduction of the number of subsidiaries from today 21 to four or five in the future. Another move is the acquisition of the apparel producer Dei Mattioli, which is owned by Mattioli. Ferré also seems to be interested in acquiring some of his contractors, in order to have more control over the production.


Performance

The company achieved total sales of 950 billion Lira ($589 million) in 1994, an increase of 15% over 1993, which had shown enjoyed a similar increase over 1992 sales. Ferré's 14 licences contributed 58% to total sales in 1994. In 1996, total sales were already at 1250 billion Lira ($811 million).


Exports

70% of Ferré sales are achieved in export, where the US appears to be the biggest market with growing importance. Italy still holds 20% of the sales, but the success of the Ferré Jeans business in the US seems to shift the focus here. The Studio .0001 by Ferré line, produced by Italian garment manufacturer Marzotto, is basically targeted at the US market.


Distribution

Ferré distributes in 17 exclusive boutiques worldwide (1994) and has over 250 sales points in total.


Production/licenses

Though no longer under production, the Studio .0001 and Forma O were produced by Marzotto, one of the biggest Italian garment manufacturers. The sportswear collections Oaks by Ferré and Ferrejeans used to be manufactured by Italiana Manifatture S.p.A., but Ferré contracted those lines for the next ten years to Ittiere, who also furnish the bride collections of
Dolce & Gabbana Dolce & Gabbana (), also known by initials D&G, is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1985 in Legnano by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The house specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, accessories, and cos ...
,
Versace Gianni Versace S.r.l. (), usually referred to as Versace ( ), is an Italian luxury fashion company founded by Gianni Versace in 1978 known for flashy prints and bright colors. The company produces Italian-made ready-to-wear and accessories, as ...
, and others. The range of licensed products is wide, including shoes, stationery, luggage, home furnishings, and perfumes. The latest addition to this list is the license given to the Swiss watch manufacturer Swatch. Most of the external licenses were eliminated in 2003, leaving only the Gianfranco Ferre mainline, Ferre diffusion, and GF Ferre younger/activewear labels.


Death

Ferré died on June 17, 2007. The previous Friday, he had suffered a massive brain hemorrhage. Ferré was hospitalized at the San Raffaele Hospital in Milan, where he was pronounced dead a few days later.


References


External links


Official website
*
Gianfranco Ferré and the Architecture of Design
New York Observer {{DEFAULTSORT:Ferre, Gianfranco 1944 births 2007 deaths People from Legnano Fashion designers from Milan Italian fashion designers Polytechnic University of Milan alumni High fashion brands Clothing brands of Italy Dior people