Galloway ( ; sco, Gallowa; la, Gallovidia) is a region in southwestern
Scotland
Scotland (, ) is a country that is part of the United Kingdom. Covering the northern third of the island of Great Britain, mainland Scotland has a border with England to the southeast and is otherwise surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean to ...
comprising the
historic counties of
Wigtownshire
Wigtownshire or the County of Wigtown (, ) is one of the historic counties of Scotland, covering an area in the south-west of the country. Until 1975, Wigtownshire was an administrative county used for local government. Since 1975 the area has f ...
and
Kirkcudbrightshire. It is administered as part of the
council area of
Dumfries and Galloway.
A native or inhabitant of Galloway is called a Gallovidian. The place name Galloway is derived from the Gaelic ' ("amongst the '"). The , literally meaning "Stranger-'"; the specific identity of whom the term was applied to is unknown, but the predominant view is that it referred to an ethnic and/or cultural identity such as the
Strathclyde Britons or another related but distinct population. A popular theory is that it refers to a population of mixed
Scandinavian and
Gaelic
Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, an ...
ethnicity that may have inhabited Galloway in the
Middle Ages
In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the late 5th to the late 15th centuries, similar to the post-classical period of global history. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire ...
.
Galloway is bounded by sea to the west and south, the
Galloway Hills
The Galloway Hills are part of the Southern Uplands of Scotland, and form the northern boundary of western Galloway. They lie within the bounds of the Galloway Forest Park, an area of some of largely uninhabited wild land, managed by Forestry an ...
to the north, and the
River Nith to the east; the border between Kirkcudbrightshire and Wigtownshire is marked by the
River Cree
The River Cree is a river in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland which runs through Newton Stewart and into the Solway Firth. It forms part of the boundary between the counties of Wigtownshire and Kirkcudbrightshire.
The tributaries of the Cree a ...
. The definition has, however, fluctuated greatly in size over history.
A hardy breed of black, hornless
cattle
Cattle (''Bos taurus'') are large, domesticated, cloven-hooved, herbivores. They are a prominent modern member of the subfamily Bovinae and the most widespread species of the genus '' Bos''. Adult females are referred to as cows and adult ...
named
Galloway cattle
The Galloway is a Scottish breed of beef cattle, named after the Galloway region of Scotland, where it originated during the seventeenth century.
It is usually black, is of average size, is naturally polled and has a thick coat suitable fo ...
is native to the region, in addition to the more distinctive '
Belted Galloway
The Belted Galloway is a traditional Scottish breed of beef cattle. It derives from the Galloway cattle of the Galloway region of south-western Scotland, and was established as a separate breed in 1921. It is adapted to living on the poor u ...
' or 'Beltie'.
Geography and landforms
Galloway comprises the part of Scotland lying southwards from the Southern Upland
watershed
Watershed is a hydrological term, which has been adopted in other fields in a more or less figurative sense. It may refer to:
Hydrology
* Drainage divide, the line that separates neighbouring drainage basins
* Drainage basin, called a "watershe ...
and westward from the
River Nith. Traditionally it has been described as stretching from "the braes of Glenapp to the Nith". The valleys of three rivers, the
Urr Water, the
Water of Ken
The Water of Ken is a river in the historical county of Kirkcudbrightshire in Galloway, south-west Scotland. It rises on Blacklorg Hill, north-east of Cairnsmore of Carsphairn in the Carsphairn hills, and flows south-westward into The Glenkens, ...
and
River Dee, and the Cree, all running north–south, provide much of the good arable land, although there is also some arable land on the coast. Generally however the landscape is rugged and much of the soil is shallow. The generally south slope and southern coast make for mild and wet climate, and there is a great deal of good pasture.
The northern part of Galloway is exceedingly rugged and forms the largest remaining
wilderness in
Britain south of the
Highlands. This area is known as the
Galloway Hills
The Galloway Hills are part of the Southern Uplands of Scotland, and form the northern boundary of western Galloway. They lie within the bounds of the Galloway Forest Park, an area of some of largely uninhabited wild land, managed by Forestry an ...
.
Land use
Historically Galloway has been known both for
horses and for cattle rearing, and
milk
Milk is a white liquid food produced by the mammary glands of mammals. It is the primary source of nutrition for young mammals (including breastfed human infants) before they are able to digest solid food. Immune factors and immune-modulat ...
and
beef
Beef is the culinary name for meat from cattle (''Bos taurus'').
In prehistoric times, humankind hunted aurochs and later domesticated them. Since that time, numerous breeds of cattle have been bred specifically for the quality or quantit ...
production are both still major industries. There is also substantial
timber production and some
fisheries. The combination of hills and high rainfall make Galloway ideal for
hydroelectric power production, and the
Galloway Hydro Power scheme was begun in 1929. Since then,
electricity generation has been a significant industry. More recently
wind turbine
A wind turbine is a device that converts the kinetic energy of wind into electrical energy. Hundreds of thousands of large turbines, in installations known as wind farms, now generate over 650 gigawatts of power, with 60 GW added each year. ...
s have been installed at a number of locations on the watershed, and a large offshore wind-power plant is planned, increasing Galloway's 'green energy' production.
History
Galloway landmarks on Ptolemy's map
The 2nd century geographer
Ptolemy
Claudius Ptolemy (; grc-gre, Πτολεμαῖος, ; la, Claudius Ptolemaeus; AD) was a mathematician, astronomer, astrologer, geographer, and music theorist, who wrote about a dozen scientific treatises, three of which were of importanc ...
produced a map of Britain in his ''
Geography
Geography (from Greek: , ''geographia''. Combination of Greek words ‘Geo’ (The Earth) and ‘Graphien’ (to describe), literally "earth description") is a field of science devoted to the study of the lands, features, inhabitants, an ...
'', in which he describes the landmarks and peoples of the island. The landmarks were identified long ago, and a number of them relate to Galloway:
In the west, the city of (literally 'very royal place'), shown on
Ptolemy
Claudius Ptolemy (; grc-gre, Πτολεμαῖος, ; la, Claudius Ptolemaeus; AD) was a mathematician, astronomer, astrologer, geographer, and music theorist, who wrote about a dozen scientific treatises, three of which were of importanc ...
's map of the world, is a strong contender for the site of , referred to in the
Welsh Triads as one of the 'three thrones of Britain' associated with the legendary
King Arthur, and may also have been the ' of the
sub-Roman
Sub-Roman Britain is the period of late antiquity in Great Britain between the end of Roman rule and the Anglo-Saxon settlement. The term was originally used to describe archaeological remains found in 5th- and 6th-century AD sites that h ...
Brythonic kingdom of . 's exact position is uncertain except that it was 'on
Loch Ryan', close to modern day
Stranraer; it is possible that it is the modern settlement of
Dunragit
Dunragit ( gd, Dùn Reicheit) is a village on the A75, between Stranraer and Glenluce in Dumfries and Galloway, south-west Scotland. Dunragit is within the parish of Old Luce, in the traditional county of Wigtownshire. The modern village grew ...
().
Early Galloway
The earliest recorded inhabitants were
Brythonic Celts
Brittonic or Brythonic may refer to:
*Common Brittonic, or Brythonic, the Celtic language anciently spoken in Great Britain
*Brittonic languages, a branch of the Celtic languages descended from Common Brittonic
*Britons (Celtic people)
The Br ...
, recorded by the
Romans as the tribe. According to tradition, before the end of
Roman rule in Britain,
St. Ninian
Ninian is a Christian saint, first mentioned in the 8th century as being an early missionary among the Pictish peoples of what is now Scotland. For this reason he is known as the Apostle to the Southern Picts, and there are numerous dedicatio ...
established a church or monastery at
Whithorn,
Wigtownshire
Wigtownshire or the County of Wigtown (, ) is one of the historic counties of Scotland, covering an area in the south-west of the country. Until 1975, Wigtownshire was an administrative county used for local government. Since 1975 the area has f ...
, which remained an important place of
pilgrimage
A pilgrimage is a journey, often into an unknown or foreign place, where a person goes in search of new or expanded meaning about their self, others, nature, or a higher good, through the experience. It can lead to a personal transformation, aft ...
until the
Reformation
The Reformation (alternatively named the Protestant Reformation or the European Reformation) was a major movement within Western Christianity in 16th-century Europe that posed a religious and political challenge to the Catholic Church and in ...
. The county is rich in prehistoric monuments and relics, amongst the most notable of which are the
Drumtroddan standing stones (and cup-and-ring carvings), the
Torhousekie Stone Circle, both in
Wigtownshire
Wigtownshire or the County of Wigtown (, ) is one of the historic counties of Scotland, covering an area in the south-west of the country. Until 1975, Wigtownshire was an administrative county used for local government. Since 1975 the area has f ...
and
Cairnholy
Cairnholy (or Cairn Holy) is the site of two Neolithic chambered tombs of the Clyde type. It is located 4 kilometres east of the village of Carsluith in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland (). The tombs are scheduled monuments in the care of Hist ...
(a Neolithic chambered cairn). There is also evidence of one of the earliest pit-fall traps in Europe which was discovered near
Glenluce
Glenluce ( gd, Clachan Ghlinn Lus) is a small village in the parish of Old Luce in Wigtownshire, Scotland.
It contains a village shop,a caravan park and a town hall, as well as the parish church.
Location
Glenluce on the A75 road between Stranra ...
,
Wigtownshire
Wigtownshire or the County of Wigtown (, ) is one of the historic counties of Scotland, covering an area in the south-west of the country. Until 1975, Wigtownshire was an administrative county used for local government. Since 1975 the area has f ...
.
Middle Ages
A Brythonic speaking kingdom dominated Galloway until the late 7th century when it was absorbed by the
English
English usually refers to:
* English language
* English people
English may also refer to:
Peoples, culture, and language
* ''English'', an adjective for something of, from, or related to England
** English national ...
kingdom of
Bernicia
Bernicia ( ang, Bernice, Bryneich, Beornice; la, Bernicia) was an Anglo-Saxon kingdom established by Anglian settlers of the 6th century in what is now southeastern Scotland and North East England.
The Anglian territory of Bernicia was ap ...
.
English prevalence was supplanted by
Britons and
Norse-Gaelic () peoples between the 9th and the 11th century. This can be seen in the context of both the vacuum left by
Northumbria
la, Regnum Northanhymbrorum
, conventional_long_name = Kingdom of Northumbria
, common_name = Northumbria
, status = State
, status_text = Unified Anglian kingdom (before 876)North: Anglian kingdom (af ...
being filled by the resurgent
Cumbric Britons and the influx of
the Norse into the Irish Sea, including settlement in the Isle of Man and in the now English region of western
Cumbria
Cumbria ( ) is a ceremonial and non-metropolitan county in North West England, bordering Scotland. The county and Cumbria County Council, its local government, came into existence in 1974 after the passage of the Local Government Act 1972. ...
immediately south of Galloway.
If it had not been for
Fergus of Galloway who established himself in Galloway, the region would rapidly have been absorbed by Scotland. This did not happen because Fergus, his sons, grandsons and great-grandson
Alan, Lord of Galloway, shifted their allegiance between Scottish and
English
English usually refers to:
* English language
* English people
English may also refer to:
Peoples, culture, and language
* ''English'', an adjective for something of, from, or related to England
** English national ...
kings. During a period of Scottish allegiance a Galloway contingent followed
David, King of Scots in his invasion of England and led the attack in his defeat at the
Battle of the Standard
The Battle of the Standard, sometimes called the Battle of Northallerton, took place on 22 August 1138 on Cowton Moor near Northallerton in Yorkshire, England. English forces under William of Aumale repelled a Scottish army led by King Dav ...
(1138).
Alan died in 1234. He had three daughters and an illegitimate son Thomas. The 'Community of Galloway' wanted Thomas as their 'king'.
Alexander III of Scotland supported the daughters (or rather their husbands) and invaded Galloway. The Community of Galloway was defeated, and Galloway divided up between Alan's daughters, thus bringing Galloway's independent existence to an end.
Alan's eldest daughter, (Latinized as Dervorguilla), married
John de Balliol
John Balliol ( – late 1314), known derisively as ''Toom Tabard'' (meaning "empty coat" – coat of arms), was King of Scots from 1292 to 1296. Little is known of his early life. After the death of Margaret, Maid of Norway, Scotland entered an ...
, and their son (also
John) became one of the candidates for the Scottish Crown. Consequently, Scotland's
Wars of Independence were disproportionately fought in Galloway.
There were a large number of new
Gaelic
Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, an ...
placenames being coined post 1320 (e.g.
Balmaclellan), because Galloway retained a substantial Gaelic speaking population for several centuries more. Following the Wars of Independence, Galloway became the
fief
A fief (; la, feudum) was a central element in medieval contracts based on feudal law. It consisted of a form of property holding or other rights granted by an overlord to a vassal, who held it in fealty or "in fee" in return for a form ...
of
Archibald the Grim,
Earl of Douglas. In 1369 he received the part of Galloway east of the
River Cree
The River Cree is a river in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland which runs through Newton Stewart and into the Solway Firth. It forms part of the boundary between the counties of Wigtownshire and Kirkcudbrightshire.
The tributaries of the Cree a ...
, where he appointed a steward to administer the area, which became known as the
Stewartry of Kirkcudbright. The following year, he acquired the part of Galloway west of the Cree, which continued to be administered by the king's sheriff, and so became known as the
Shire of Wigtown.
The two parts of Galloway thereafter were administered separately, becoming separate
counties.
Whithorn remained an important cultural centre, and all the
medieval
In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the late 5th to the late 15th centuries, similar to the post-classical period of global history. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire a ...
Kings of Scots made pilgrimages there.
Modern history
Galwegian Gaelic seems to have lasted longer than
Gaelic
Gaelic is an adjective that means "pertaining to the Gaels". As a noun it refers to the group of languages spoken by the Gaels, or to any one of the languages individually. Gaelic languages are spoken in Ireland, Scotland, the Isle of Man, an ...
in other parts of
Lowland Scotland, and
Margaret McMurray
Margaret McMurray (died 1760) appears to have been one of the last native speakers of a Lowland dialect of Scottish Gaelic in the Galloway variety.
In ''The Scotsman'' of 18 November 1951 appeared the following letter, which had originally been ...
(d. 1760) of
Carrick (outside modern Galloway) appears to have been the last recorded speaker.
In the years after the
Union of the Crowns in 1603, Galloway underwent radical change, during the
War of the Three Kingdoms and
Covenanter rebellion.
In modern times,
Stranraer was a major ferry port, but the company have now moved to
Cairnryan
Cairnryan ( sco, The Cairn;
gd, Machair an Sgithich) is a vi ...
.
Galloway in literature
Galloway has been the setting of a number of novels, including
Walter Scott's ''
Guy Mannering''.
Other novels include the historical fiction trilogy by Liz Curtis Higgs, ''Thorn in My Heart'', ''Fair is the Rose'', and ''Whence Came a Prince''.
Richard Hannay flees London to lie low in Galloway in
John Buchan's novel ''
The Thirty-nine Steps''. ''
Five Red Herrings'', a
whodunit by
Dorothy L. Sayers, initially published in the US as ''Suspicious Characters'', sees
Lord Peter Wimsey, on holiday in
Kirkcudbright, investigating the death of an artist living at
Gatehouse of Fleet; the book contains some remarkable descriptions of the countryside.
S R Crockett, a bestselling writer of historical romances active before the First World War, set several novels in the region including ''
The Raiders'' and ''
Silver Sand Silver sand is a fine white sand used in gardening. It consists largely of quartz particles that are not coated with iron oxides. Iron oxides colour sand from yellows to rich brown
Brown is a color. It can be considered a composite color, but it ...
''.
See also
*
Galloway Association of Glasgow
*
Galloway pony
The Galloway pony is an extinct horse breed, once native to Scotland and northern England. It was said to have "good looks, a wide, deep chest and a tendency to pace rather than trot." In the 18th century Galloways were bred in Swaledale, to ...
References
* Brooke, D: ''Wild Men and Holy Places''. Edinburgh: Canongate Press, 1994
* Oram, Richard, ''The Lordship of Galloway''. University of St Andrews, 1988
*
External links
Galloway Dialectat Scots Language Centre
{{coord, 55, 03, N, 4, 08, W, source:kolossus-nowiki, display=title
Geography of Dumfries and Galloway