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San Juan de Nicaragua, formerly known as San Juan del Norte or Greytown, is a town and municipality in the
Río San Juan Department Río San Juan () is a department in Nicaragua. It was formed in 1957 from parts of Chontales and Zelaya departments. It covers an area of 7,543 km2 and has a population of 137,189 (2021 estimate). The capital is San Carlos. The departm ...
of Nicaragua.


History

San Juan del Norte was founded by the Spanish and was a small fort and
customs Customs is an authority or agency in a country responsible for collecting tariffs and for controlling the flow of goods, including animals, transports, personal effects, and hazardous items, into and out of a country. Traditionally, customs ...
station. Spanish explorers first reached the bay at the mouth of the San Juan River on 24 June (
feast day The calendar of saints is the traditional Christian method of organizing a liturgical year by associating each day with one or more saints and referring to the day as the feast day or feast of said saint. The word "feast" in this context d ...
of Saint John the Baptist) 1539 and named it San Juan del Norte (St. John of the North). A
garrison A garrison (from the French ''garnison'', itself from the verb ''garnir'', "to equip") is any body of troops stationed in a particular location, originally to guard it. The term now often applies to certain facilities that constitute a mil ...
was first established in 1541 as San Juan de la Cruz by Nicaraguan governor Rodrigo Contreras. In 1707 and again in 1762, the area was captured by an alliance of
Miskitos The Miskitos are a native people in Central America. Their territory extends from Cape Camarón, Honduras, to Río Grande de Matagalpa, Nicaragua, along the Mosquito Coast, in the Western Caribbean Zone. Their population is estimated at 700,000 ...
, Zambos ( Afro-
Indians Indian or Indians may refer to: Peoples South Asia * Indian people, people of Indian nationality, or people who have an Indian ancestor ** Non-resident Indian, a citizen of India who has temporarily emigrated to another country * South Asia ...
), and English. After 1762, settlement of the area began and a 1778 commercial treaty permitted residency of Spaniards. The eastern coast of Nicaragua had long fallen under British influence with the Mosquito Coast being a protectorate from 1740 but the Spanish asserted control over San Juan del Norte after the 1786 Convention of London. The town was declared a free port by the Spanish but the Spanish were ousted in 1821 with the independence of Central America. In 1841, the town was occupied by the Miskitos with British assistance and, in 1848, the town was occupied directly by the British. It was rechristened Greytown after the then Jamaican Governor
Charles Edward Grey Sir Charles Edward Grey Royal Guelphic Order, GCH (1785 – 1 June 1865) was an English judge and colonial governor. He was a younger son of Ralph William Grey of Backworth House, Earsdon, Northumberland, and his wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Cha ...
and nominally ceded to the
Miskito Kingdom The Mosquito Coast, also known as the Mosquitia or Mosquito Shore, historically included the area along the eastern coast of present-day Nicaragua and Honduras. It formed part of the Western Caribbean Zone. It was named after the local Miski ...
, a British protectorate to the north. A year later, the town began rapid growth as the eastern terminus of a transport operation owned by
American American(s) may refer to: * American, something of, from, or related to the United States of America, commonly known as the "United States" or "America" ** Americans, citizens and nationals of the United States of America ** American ancestry, pe ...
Cornelius Vanderbilt's Accessory Transit Company that carried thousands of travelers each month from the Atlantic to the Pacific side of Central America on their way to San Francisco during the
California Gold Rush The California Gold Rush (1848–1855) was a gold rush that began on January 24, 1848, when gold was found by James W. Marshall at Sutter's Mill in Coloma, California. The news of gold brought approximately 300,000 people to California fro ...
. Sail and steam-ships traveled from New York City and New Orleans in the United States to Greytown. From there, small boats transported passengers up the San Juan River and across Lake Nicaragua. Then, mules, horses, or
stagecoach A stagecoach is a four-wheeled public transport coach used to carry paying passengers and light packages on journeys long enough to need a change of horses. It is strongly sprung and generally drawn by four horses although some versions are draw ...
es carried them over the small isthmus between the lake and San Juan del Sur, Rivas on the Pacific where they would embark on ships traveling the coast between Panama and Nicaragua and California. However, the town's prosperity was cut short when, on 13 July 1854, the United States Navy
sloop A sloop is a sailboat with a single mast typically having only one headsail in front of the mast and one mainsail aft of (behind) the mast. Such an arrangement is called a fore-and-aft rig, and can be rigged as a Bermuda rig with triangular sa ...
USS ''Cyane'' bombarded and totally burned the town, supposedly in retaliation for local actions against American citizens. The action was a culmination of a confrontation between Americans and the townspeople over tariffs and control of transit routes. The destruction was reported around the world, including an illustration in the '' Illustrated London News'

Soon after, the San Juan River changed course and the town was again destroyed. Greytown was rebuilt after its destruction and, in 1855, the American filibuster (military), filibuster
William Walker William Walker may refer to: Arts * William Walker (engraver) (1791–1867), mezzotint engraver of portrait of Robert Burns * William Sidney Walker (1795–1846), English Shakespearean critic * William Walker (composer) (1809–1875), American Ba ...
installed himself as
President of Nicaragua The president of Nicaragua ( es, Presidente de Nicaragua), officially known as the president of the Republic of Nicaragua ( es, Presidente de la República de Nicaragua), is the head of state and head of government of Nicaragua. The office was ...
and took control of the Accessory Transit Company's assets and revoked its charter. He himself was ousted in 1857 by elements backed by Vanderbilt. Walker and his followers attempted to retake Nicaragua in November 1857, when they entered Greytown harbor and camped at nearby Puntas Arenas. However, U.S. Marines soon surrounded the forces and captured Walker. Vanderbilt then ceased operation of the transit service in exchange for a stipend from the rival Pacific Mail Steamship Company and the United States Mail Steamship Company, which operated similar routes across Panama. As a result, Greytown reverted to backwater status and remained a small settlement into the 20th century. The town was legally placed under the sovereignty of Nicaragua and removed from Miskito control in 1860 but remained ''de facto'' under British protection through much of the remainder of the century. In 1894, Nicaraguan President José Santos Zelaya fully incorporated the region into the state, at which time Greytown had 1482 inhabitants. In 1984, Greytown was attacked again during the SandinistaContra conflict in which a US helicopter, while supporting the Contras, fired on the town on 9 April 1984. A new town was built a few kilometers to the northwest and is called both New Greytown and Nuevo San Juan del Norte. In 2002, the municipality of San Juan del Norte was officially renamed San Juan de Nicaragua and its capital renamed Graytown by the National Assembly of Nicaragua.


Geography

San Juan de Nicaragua lies on Nicaragua's
Caribbean The Caribbean (, ) ( es, El Caribe; french: la Caraïbe; ht, Karayib; nl, De Caraïben) is a region of the Americas that consists of the Caribbean Sea, its islands (some surrounded by the Caribbean Sea and some bordering both the Caribbean Se ...
coast just to the south of the Mosquito Coast near the border with
Costa Rica Costa Rica (, ; ; literally "Rich Coast"), officially the Republic of Costa Rica ( es, República de Costa Rica), is a country in the Central American region of North America, bordered by Nicaragua to the north, the Caribbean Sea to the no ...
. It is located at the mouth of the San Juan River which flows east from Lake Nicaragua and is along the route of various proposals for a Nicaragua Canal to the Pacific Ocean. The town's geography is influenced by the San Juan River delta with volcanic sediment deposits from Costa Rican volcanoes interacting with ocean currents and winds. This action fills the town's harbor with shifting sandbars and
spits ''Spits'' (; en, Peak/Rush Hour; stylized as ''Sp!ts'') was a tabloid format newspaper freely distributed in trains, trams and buses in the Netherlands from 1999 to 2014. Its competitor was ''Metro Metro, short for metropolitan, may refer to: ...
.


Climate

San Juan de Nicaragua has a very wet tropical rainforest climate ( Köppen ''Af'') with heavy rainfall from February to April and very heavy to extremely heavy rainfall in the remaining months. It is the wettest place in Nicaragua, and its annual rainfall of around rivals Whittier or
Little Port Walter Port Walter is located on the southeastern side of Baranof Island in Sitka City and Borough, Alaska. It is made up of two parts: Little Port Walter and Big Port Walter. Little Port Walter was the home of a herring saltery during the turn on the c ...
in the
Alaska Panhandle Southeast Alaska, colloquially referred to as the Alaska(n) Panhandle, is the southeastern portion of the U.S. state of Alaska, bordered to the east and north by the northern half of the Canadian province of British Columbia (and a small part ...
as the wettest inhabited place in North and Central America.


Population

As with the Mosquito Coast to the north, Greytown has a large population of speakers of English-based
Mosquito Coast Creole Mískito Coast Creole or Nicaragua Creole English is an English-based creole language spoken in coastal Nicaraguan region of Mosquito Coast on the Caribbean Sea; its approximately 30,000 speakers are spread over a number of small villages. The reg ...
who are of African descent.


Popular Culture

*
W. Douglas Burden William Douglas Burden (September 24, 1898 – November 14, 1978), was an American naturalist, filmmaker, and author who co-founded Marineland in Florida. Early life Burden was born on September 24, 1898, in Troy, New York, but grew up in Manhat ...
describes the town in his ''Look to the Wilderness''.


Notes


References

* Peter H. Dana and Shannon Crum
3D Modeling of Greytown, Nicaragua
The Geographer's Craft Project, Department of Geography, The University of Colorado at Boulder. 1995.

at Rio Indio Lodge website


External links



from the 19th century including the burning of Greytown in 1854 {{Authority control Municipalities of the Río San Juan Department Costa Rica–Nicaragua border crossings Road-inaccessible communities of North America Populated coastal places in Nicaragua