San Juan de Nicaragua, formerly known as San Juan del Norte or Greytown, is a town and
municipality in the
Río San Juan Department
Río San Juan () is a department in Nicaragua. It was formed in 1957 from parts of Chontales and Zelaya departments. It covers an area of 7,543 km2 and has a population of 137,189 (2021 estimate). The capital is San Carlos. The departm ...
of
Nicaragua.
History
San Juan del Norte was founded by the
Spanish and was a small fort and
customs
Customs is an authority or agency in a country responsible for collecting tariffs and for controlling the flow of goods, including animals, transports, personal effects, and hazardous items, into and out of a country. Traditionally, customs ...
station. Spanish explorers first reached the bay at the mouth of the San Juan River on 24 June (
feast day
The calendar of saints is the traditional Christian method of organizing a liturgical year by associating each day with one or more saints and referring to the day as the feast day or feast of said saint. The word "feast" in this context d ...
of Saint
John the Baptist) 1539 and named it San Juan del Norte (St. John of the North). A
garrison
A garrison (from the French ''garnison'', itself from the verb ''garnir'', "to equip") is any body of troops stationed in a particular location, originally to guard it. The term now often applies to certain facilities that constitute a mil ...
was first established in 1541 as San Juan de la Cruz by Nicaraguan governor Rodrigo Contreras.
In 1707 and again in 1762, the area was captured by an alliance of
Miskitos
The Miskitos are a native people in Central America. Their territory extends from Cape Camarón, Honduras, to Río Grande de Matagalpa, Nicaragua, along the Mosquito Coast, in the Western Caribbean Zone. Their population is estimated at 700,000 ...
,
Zambos (
Afro-
Indians
Indian or Indians may refer to:
Peoples South Asia
* Indian people, people of Indian nationality, or people who have an Indian ancestor
** Non-resident Indian, a citizen of India who has temporarily emigrated to another country
* South Asia ...
), and
English. After 1762, settlement of the area began and a 1778 commercial treaty permitted residency of Spaniards. The eastern coast of Nicaragua had long fallen under
British influence with the Mosquito Coast being a protectorate from 1740 but the Spanish asserted control over San Juan del Norte after the
1786 Convention of London. The town was declared a
free port by the Spanish but the Spanish were ousted in 1821 with the independence of
Central America.
In 1841, the town was occupied by the Miskitos with
British assistance and, in 1848, the town was occupied directly by the British. It was rechristened Greytown after the then
Jamaican
Governor Charles Edward Grey
Sir Charles Edward Grey Royal Guelphic Order, GCH (1785 – 1 June 1865) was an English judge and colonial governor.
He was a younger son of Ralph William Grey of Backworth House, Earsdon, Northumberland, and his wife, Elizabeth, daughter of Cha ...
and nominally ceded to the
Miskito Kingdom
The Mosquito Coast, also known as the Mosquitia or Mosquito Shore, historically included the area along the eastern coast of present-day Nicaragua and Honduras. It formed part of the Western Caribbean Zone. It was named after the local Miski ...
, a British
protectorate to the north.
A year later, the town began rapid growth as the eastern terminus of a transport operation owned by
American
American(s) may refer to:
* American, something of, from, or related to the United States of America, commonly known as the "United States" or "America"
** Americans, citizens and nationals of the United States of America
** American ancestry, pe ...
Cornelius Vanderbilt's
Accessory Transit Company that carried thousands of travelers each month from the
Atlantic to the Pacific side of
Central America on their way to
San Francisco during the
California Gold Rush
The California Gold Rush (1848–1855) was a gold rush that began on January 24, 1848, when gold was found by James W. Marshall at Sutter's Mill in Coloma, California. The news of gold brought approximately 300,000 people to California fro ...
. Sail and steam-ships traveled from
New York City and
New Orleans in the
United States to Greytown. From there, small boats transported passengers up the San Juan River and across Lake Nicaragua. Then, mules, horses, or
stagecoach
A stagecoach is a four-wheeled public transport coach used to carry paying passengers and light packages on journeys long enough to need a change of horses. It is strongly sprung and generally drawn by four horses although some versions are draw ...
es carried them over the small
isthmus between the lake and
San Juan del Sur,
Rivas on the Pacific where they would embark on ships traveling the coast between
Panama and Nicaragua and
California.
However, the town's prosperity was cut short when, on 13 July 1854, the
United States Navy sloop
A sloop is a sailboat with a single mast typically having only one headsail in front of the mast and one mainsail aft of (behind) the mast. Such an arrangement is called a fore-and-aft rig, and can be rigged as a Bermuda rig with triangular sa ...
USS ''Cyane'' bombarded and totally burned the town, supposedly in retaliation for local actions against American citizens. The action was a culmination of a confrontation between Americans and the townspeople over tariffs and control of transit routes. The destruction was reported around the world, including an illustration in the ''
Illustrated London News'
Soon after, the San Juan River changed course and the town was again destroyed.
Greytown was rebuilt after its destruction and, in 1855, the American
filibuster (military), filibuster William Walker William Walker may refer to:
Arts
* William Walker (engraver) (1791–1867), mezzotint engraver of portrait of Robert Burns
* William Sidney Walker (1795–1846), English Shakespearean critic
* William Walker (composer) (1809–1875), American Ba ...
installed himself as
President of Nicaragua
The president of Nicaragua ( es, Presidente de Nicaragua), officially known as the president of the Republic of Nicaragua ( es, Presidente de la República de Nicaragua), is the head of state and head of government of Nicaragua. The office was ...
and took control of the Accessory Transit Company's assets and revoked its charter. He himself was ousted in 1857 by elements backed by Vanderbilt. Walker and his followers attempted to retake Nicaragua in November 1857, when they entered Greytown harbor and camped at nearby Puntas Arenas. However,
U.S. Marines soon surrounded the forces and captured Walker.
Vanderbilt then ceased operation of the transit service in exchange for a stipend from the rival
Pacific Mail Steamship Company and the
United States Mail Steamship Company, which operated similar routes across Panama. As a result, Greytown reverted to backwater status and remained a small settlement into the 20th century.
The town was legally placed under the sovereignty of Nicaragua and removed from Miskito control in 1860 but remained ''de facto'' under British protection through much of the remainder of the century. In 1894, Nicaraguan President
José Santos Zelaya fully incorporated the region into the state, at which time Greytown had 1482 inhabitants.
In 1984, Greytown was attacked again during the
Sandinista–
Contra conflict in which a US helicopter, while supporting the Contras, fired on the town on 9 April 1984.
A new town was built a few kilometers to the northwest and is called both New Greytown and Nuevo San Juan del Norte.
In 2002, the municipality of San Juan del Norte was officially renamed San Juan de Nicaragua and its capital renamed Graytown by the
National Assembly of Nicaragua.
Geography
San Juan de Nicaragua lies on Nicaragua's
Caribbean
The Caribbean (, ) ( es, El Caribe; french: la Caraïbe; ht, Karayib; nl, De Caraïben) is a region of the Americas that consists of the Caribbean Sea, its islands (some surrounded by the Caribbean Sea and some bordering both the Caribbean Se ...
coast just to the south of the
Mosquito Coast near the border with
Costa Rica
Costa Rica (, ; ; literally "Rich Coast"), officially the Republic of Costa Rica ( es, República de Costa Rica), is a country in the Central American region of North America, bordered by Nicaragua to the north, the Caribbean Sea to the no ...
. It is located at the mouth of the
San Juan River which flows east from
Lake Nicaragua and is along the route of various proposals for a
Nicaragua Canal to the
Pacific Ocean.
The town's geography is influenced by the San Juan River
delta with volcanic sediment deposits from Costa Rican volcanoes interacting with ocean currents and winds. This action fills the town's harbor with shifting
sandbars and
spits
''Spits'' (; en, Peak/Rush Hour; stylized as ''Sp!ts'') was a tabloid format newspaper freely distributed in trains, trams and buses in the Netherlands from 1999 to 2014. Its competitor was ''Metro
Metro, short for metropolitan, may refer to: ...
.
Climate
San Juan de Nicaragua has a very wet
tropical rainforest climate (
Köppen ''Af'') with heavy rainfall from February to April and very heavy to extremely heavy rainfall in the remaining months. It is the wettest place in Nicaragua, and its annual rainfall of around rivals
Whittier or
Little Port Walter
Port Walter is located on the southeastern side of Baranof Island in Sitka City and Borough, Alaska. It is made up of two parts: Little Port Walter and Big Port Walter.
Little Port Walter was the home of a herring saltery during the turn on the c ...
in the
Alaska Panhandle
Southeast Alaska, colloquially referred to as the Alaska(n) Panhandle, is the southeastern portion of the U.S. state of Alaska, bordered to the east and north by the northern half of the Canadian province of British Columbia (and a small part ...
as the wettest inhabited place in North and Central America.
Population
As with the
Mosquito Coast to the north, Greytown has a large population of speakers of English-based
Mosquito Coast Creole
Mískito Coast Creole or Nicaragua Creole English is an English-based creole language spoken in coastal Nicaraguan region of Mosquito Coast on the Caribbean Sea; its approximately 30,000 speakers are spread over a number of small villages. The reg ...
who are of
African descent.
Popular Culture
*
W. Douglas Burden
William Douglas Burden (September 24, 1898 – November 14, 1978), was an American naturalist, filmmaker, and author who co-founded Marineland in Florida.
Early life
Burden was born on September 24, 1898, in Troy, New York, but grew up in Manhat ...
describes the town in his ''Look to the Wilderness''.
Notes
References
* Peter H. Dana and Shannon Crum
3D Modeling of Greytown, Nicaragua The Geographer's Craft Project, Department of Geography, The University of Colorado at Boulder. 1995.
at Rio Indio Lodge website
External links
from the 19th century including the burning of Greytown in 1854
{{Authority control
Municipalities of the Río San Juan Department
Costa Rica–Nicaragua border crossings
Road-inaccessible communities of North America
Populated coastal places in Nicaragua