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The Glödis () is one of the most regularly formed summits in the
Schober Group in
East Tyrol
East Tyrol, occasionally East Tirol (german: Osttirol), is an exclave of the Austrian state of Tyrol, separated from the main North Tyrol part by the short common border of Salzburg and Italian South Tyrol (''Südtirol'', it, Alto Adige). It is c ...
, hence its sobriquet, the "Matterhorn of the Schober Group". It is an impressive sight both from the
Debanttal valley and the valley of
Kalser Lesachtal.
Name
Franz Miklosich
Franz Miklosich (german: Franz Ritter von Miklosich, also known in Slovene as ; 20 November 1813 – 7 March 1891) was a Slovene philologist.
Early life
Miklosich was born in the small village of Radomerščak near the Lower Styrian town of Lju ...
derives the name from the
Slavic word ''gledna'' (= "seeing").
[Walter Mair: ''Schobergruppe'', ]Alpine Club Guide
The ''Alpine Club Guides'' (german: Alpenvereinsführer, commonly shortened to ''AV Führer'' or ''AVF'') are the standard series of Alpine guides that cover all the important mountain groups in the Eastern Alps. They are produced jointly by the Ge ...
, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother
Bergverlag Rother is a German publisher with its headquarters in Oberhaching, Upper Bavaria. Since 1950 the company, that formerly went under the name of ''Bergverlag Rudolf Rother'', has published the Alpine Club Guides in cooperation with the Ge ...
, Munich, 1979.
According to
Heinz Pohl, however, there are 2 possible derivations: either from the early Slovenian ''glodišće'' (= "place gnawed away by water", from ''glodati'' = "to gnaw"), but this link is phonetically difficult; or more probably from ''glodež'' which has a similar meaning.
In the
Debanttal valley the mountain was for a long time called the ''Großer Gößnitzkopf''. Its other names include ''Klöders'' and ''Granatkogel''.
Routes
The best ascent option is from the
Lienzer Hut () along the Franz Keil Way, then on to the Kalser Törl and finally along the southeast
arête
An arête ( ) is a narrow ridge of rock which separates two valleys. It is typically formed when two glaciers erode parallel U-shaped valleys. Arêtes can also form when two glacial cirques erode headwards towards one another, although frequen ...
. In autumn 2006 a
klettersteig
A via ferrata (Italian language, Italian for "iron path", plural ''vie ferrate'' or in English ''via ferratas'') is a protected climbing route found in the Alps and certain other locations. The term "via ferrata" is used in most countries and ...
was installed on the southeast ridge which is of moderate difficulty (
grade B). Other well known routes are:
*Southwest ridge from the Kalser Törl (II–III, in one place III+), popular, often used
[Zlöbl: ''Die Dreitausender Osttirols.'' p. 22, see literature]
*Northeast ridge from Glödistörl (III-), boulder-strewn
*West ridge (IV–V), most difficult arête of the Glödis
*South ridge (III+), solid rock, rarely used
References
Literature and maps
*
Alpine Club map
Alpine Club maps (german: Alpenvereinskarten, often abbreviated to ''AV-Karten'' i.e. AV maps) are specially detailed maps for summer and winter mountain climbers (mountaineers, hikers and ski tourers). They are predominantly published at a scale o ...
Sheet 41, 1:25,000, ''Schobergruppe'',
* Richard Goedeke: ''3000er in den Nordalpen'', Bruckmann, Munich, 2004,
* Georg Zlöbl: ''Die Dreitausender Osttirols.'' Verlag Grafik Zloebl, Lienz-Tristach, 2005,
External links
Österreichischer Alpenverein: ''Glödis Südostgrat. Ein Normalweg wird zum Klettersteig''(pdf file; 300 kB)
Alpine three-thousanders
Mountains of the Alps
Mountains of Tyrol (state)
Geography of East Tyrol
Schober Group
{{Tyrol-geo-stub