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Gianfranco Ferré (; 15 August 1944 – 17 June 2007) was an Italian fashion designer also known as "the architect of fashion" for his background and his original attitude toward creating fashion design.


Early life and education

Ferré was born on 15 August 1944 in Legnano, near
Milan Milan ( , , Lombard: ; it, Milano ) is a city in northern Italy, capital of Lombardy, and the second-most populous city proper in Italy after Rome. The city proper has a population of about 1.4 million, while its metropolitan city h ...
in Lombardy, in northern Italy, the first child of Luigi Ferré and Andrea Morosi. He attended the '' liceo scientifico'' of Legnano, and then, from 1963, studied
architecture Architecture is the art and technique of designing and building, as distinguished from the skills associated with construction. It is both the process and the product of sketching, conceiving, planning, designing, and constructing building ...
at the
Polytechnic University of Milan The Polytechnic University of Milan () is the largest technical university in Italy, with about 42,000 students. The university offers undergraduate, graduate and higher education courses in engineering, architecture and design. Founded in 186 ...
in central Milan, where he graduated in 1969.


Career

Ferré began his fashion career in 1970 by designing accessories, then worked as a
raincoat A raincoat is a waterproof or water-resistant garment worn on the upper body to shield the wearer from rain. The term rain jacket is sometimes used to refer to raincoats with long sleeves that are waist-length. A rain jacket may be combined with ...
designer in 1972–74. He started his own company Baila in 1974,BBC Italian fashion idol Ferre dies
''BBC'', June 17, 2007
and launched his signature collection for women in 1978. His first men's collection appeared in 1982, followed in 1986 by his first
couture Couture may refer to: People * Couture (surname) Places Belgium * Couture-Saint-Germain, a village in the municipality of Lasne, Belgium Canada * Couture crater and Lac Couture, an impact crater and the lake that covers it in Quebec, Canada ...
collection in Rome. Ferré became Stylistic Director of Christian Dior in Paris in 1989, when he was chosen by owner
Bernard Arnault Bernard Jean Étienne Arnault (; born 5 March 1949) is a French business magnate, investor, and art collector. He is the co-founder, chairman, and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton SE, the world's largest luxury ...
to replace Marc Bohan. In 1996, it was announced that Ferré would end his engagement with Dior with the Spring 1997 collection for the label. His own label is more relaxed and pared-down than Dior. Sophisticated white shirts have become the symbol of his personal signature in fashion design.


Personal life

Ferré appeared to be extremely critical of trends and fashion gimmicks. He dealt with his demanding schedule, being responsible for a French top fashion brand and his own Italian label, by commuting between Milan and Paris in his private plane. Ferré had a lakeside home in
Lake Maggiore Lake Maggiore (, ; it, Lago Maggiore ; lmo, label=Western Lombard, Lagh Maggior; pms, Lagh Magior; literally 'Greater Lake') or Verbano (; la, Lacus Verbanus) is a large lake located on the south side of the Alps. It is the second largest l ...
, near Milan.


Product lines

* Gianfranco Ferré: Main line for men, women and children * Ferré: Previously known as the White Label, more practical, ready-to-wear for both men, women. Within this line, there are Ferré Red (for plus size) and Ferré Fur. For Ferré men there is also Ferré Underwear. * GF Ferré: Younger, more sporty line, for men, women * Gianfranco Ferré Fragrances * Ferre Milano: Casual line for women and men * Ferre designed
Korean Air Korean Air Co., Ltd. (), operating as Korean Air (Korean Air Lines before 1984), is the flag carrier of South Korea and its largest airline based on fleet size, international destinations and international flights. The present-day Korean Air ...
's flight attendant uniforms in 2005, using Korean "binyeo" traditional hair accessories.


Awards

Ferré won a number of prestigious awards including the L'Occhio d'Oro during his career: * Occhio d'Oro Award (six times) for Best Italian Designer * Gold Medal from the City of Milan * Commendatore del Ordine decoration from the President of the Italian Republic * De d'Or (Golden Thimble Award) for his first Dior haute couture collection (1989)


Gianfranco Ferré S.p.A.


Ownership

The Gianfranco Ferré S.p.A. is the holding company that coordinates the fashion business of the Ferré label. It was owned by Gianfranco Ferré (Creative Director) and
Franco Mattioli Franco may refer to: Name * Franco (name) * Francisco Franco (1892–1975), Spanish general and dictator of Spain from 1939 to 1975 * Franco Luambo (1938–1989), Congolese musician, the "Grand Maître" Prefix * Franco, a prefix used when ...
(Chief Financial Officer) in equal shares until it was sold to IT Holdings in March 2002. Recently, Ferré announced that the group plans to become listed at the Milan stock exchange. In order to prepare for this movement Ferré started to rearrange the holding significantly. First step was the recruitment of experienced management personnel under the guide of
Giuseppe Cipriano Giuseppe is the Italian form of the given name Joseph, from Latin Iōsēphus from Ancient Greek Ἰωσήφ (Iōsḗph), from Hebrew יוסף. It is the most common name in Italy and is unique (97%) to it. The feminine form of the name is Giusep ...
. Next step is the reduction of the number of subsidiaries from today 21 to four or five in the future. Another move is the acquisition of the apparel producer
Dei Mattioli ''Deus'' (, ) is the Latin word for "god" or " deity". Latin ''deus'' and ''dīvus'' ("divine") are in turn descended from Proto-Indo-European *'' deiwos'', "celestial" or "shining", from the same root as '' *Dyēus'', the reconstructed chief ...
, which is owned by Mattioli. Ferré also seems to be interested in acquiring some of his contractors, in order to have more control over the production.


Performance

The company achieved total sales of 950 billion Lira ($589 million) in 1994, an increase of 15% over 1993, which had shown enjoyed a similar increase over 1992 sales. Ferré's 14 licences contributed 58% to total sales in 1994. In 1996, total sales were already at 1250 billion Lira ($811 million).


Exports

70% of Ferré sales are achieved in export, where the US appears to be the biggest market with growing importance. Italy still holds 20% of the sales, but the success of the Ferré Jeans business in the US seems to shift the focus here. The Studio .0001 by Ferré line, produced by Italian garment manufacturer
Marzotto The Marzotto Group is an Italian textile manufacturer, based in Valdagno. Created in 1836 as the ''Lanificio Luigi Marzotto & Figli''. In 2005 Marzotto Group's textile business separated from Valentino Fashion Group. The Group manufactures wo ...
, is basically targeted at the US market.


Distribution

Ferré distributes in 17 exclusive boutiques worldwide (1994) and has over 250 sales points in total.


Production/licenses

Though no longer under production, the Studio .0001 and Forma O were produced by Marzotto, one of the biggest Italian garment manufacturers. The sportswear collections Oaks by Ferré and Ferrejeans used to be manufactured by
Italiana Manifatture S.p.A. Italiano, or the Italian language, is a Romance language of the Indo-European language family. Italiano or Italiana may also refer to anything originating from or associated with Italy: * ''L’Italiano'', weekly literary magazine between 1926 an ...
, but Ferré contracted those lines for the next ten years to Ittiere, who also furnish the bride collections of
Dolce & Gabbana Dolce & Gabbana (), also known by initials D&G, is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1985 in Legnano by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The house specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, accessories, and cosmet ...
,
Versace Gianni Versace S.r.l. (), usually referred to as Versace ( ), is an Italian luxury fashion company founded by Gianni Versace in 1978 known for flashy prints and bright colors. The company produces Italian-made ready-to-wear and accessories, as ...
, and others. The range of licensed products is wide, including shoes, stationery, luggage, home furnishings, and perfumes. The latest addition to this list is the license given to the Swiss watch manufacturer Swatch. Most of the external licenses were eliminated in 2003, leaving only the Gianfranco Ferre mainline, Ferre diffusion, and GF Ferre younger/activewear labels.


Death

Ferré died on June 17, 2007. The previous Friday, he had suffered a massive brain hemorrhage. Ferré was hospitalized at the
San Raffaele Hospital The San Raffaele Hospital (also ''Istituto scientifico universitario San Raffaele'' or ''ospedale San Raffaele'', ''HSR'' or ''OSR'') is a university hospital situated in Segrate, the Province of Milan, Italy. It was founded in 1969 by don Luigi ...
in Milan, where he was pronounced dead a few days later.


References


External links


Official website
*
Gianfranco Ferré and the Architecture of Design
New York Observer {{DEFAULTSORT:Ferre, Gianfranco 1944 births 2007 deaths People from Legnano Fashion designers from Milan Italian fashion designers Polytechnic University of Milan alumni High fashion brands Clothing brands of Italy Dior people