George Lang (restaurateur)
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George Lang (born György Deutsch; July 13, 1924 – July 5, 2011) was a Hungarian born American
restaurateur A restaurateur is a person who opens and runs restaurants professionally. Although over time the term has come to describe any person who owns a restaurant, traditionally it refers to a highly skilled professional who is proficient in all aspec ...
, food and travel writer, critic and journalist.


Life

Lang was the only child of Simon Deutsch, a tailor, and Ilona Lang. He grew up in this "modestly prosperous" Jewish family in
Székesfehérvár Székesfehérvár (; german: Stuhlweißenburg ), known colloquially as Fehérvár ("white castle"), is a city in central Hungary, and the country's ninth-largest city. It is the regional capital of Central Transdanubia, and the centre of Fejér ...
, Hungary where he practiced violin. After
Döme Sztójay Döme Sztójay ( sr-cyr, Димитрије Стојаковић, 5 January 1883 – 22 August 1946) was a Hungarian soldier and diplomat of Serb origin, who served as Prime Minister of Hungary in 1944, during World War II. Biography Born i ...
took over as prime minister in March 1944, György was ordered into a labor camp; both his parents later were murdered in
Auschwitz Auschwitz concentration camp ( (); also or ) was a complex of over 40 concentration and extermination camps operated by Nazi Germany in occupied Poland (in a portion annexed into Germany in 1939) during World War II and the Holocaust. It con ...
, but György escaped within six months. In order to survive, he hid his identity and joined the pro-Nazi
Arrow Cross A cross whose arms end in arrowheads is called a "cross barby" or "cross barbée" in the traditional terminology of heraldry. In Christian use, the ends of this cross resemble the barbs of fish hooks, or fish spears. This alludes to the Ichth ...
, in which he served for three months before he was discovered. Soviet forces liberated Budapest before he could be executed, however. Although he was tried for war crimes as an Arrow Cross member, he was acquitted, but "Europe was finished for him." He changed his name (Deutsch means 'German'), taking his mother's maiden name, and moved to the United States in 1946 with his cousin Évi. He settled in New York the same year. Lang worked in the restaurant business in New York as a chef, a banquet manager, then as developer of new projects for
Restaurant Associates Compass Group plc is a British multinational contract foodservice company headquartered in Chertsey, England. It is the largest contract foodservice company in the world employing over 500,000 people. It serves meals in locations including off ...
, a pioneering company that created
The Four Seasons Restaurant The Four Seasons Restaurant (known colloquially as the Four Seasons) was a New American cuisine restaurant in the Midtown Manhattan neighborhood of New York City from 1959 to 2019. The Four Seasons operated within the Seagram Building at 99 Ea ...
and other innovative eateries. He began working at the
Waldorf Astoria Hotel Waldorf can have the following meanings: People * William Waldorf Astor, 1st Viscount Astor (1848–1919), financier and statesman * Waldorf Astor, 2nd Viscount Astor (1879–1952), businessman and politician * Pappy Waldorf (1902–1981), 1966 ...
in 1955, after a period working in the Bowery, where he had run a wedding banquet hall, mainly for Italian Americans. On December 13, 1955, he helped organize the American Theatre Wing's First Night Ball to celebrate
Helen Hayes Helen Hayes MacArthur ( Brown; October 10, 1900 – March 17, 1993) was an American actress whose career spanned 80 years. She eventually received the nickname "First Lady of American Theatre" and was the second person and first woman to have w ...
's 50th year in show business. He also did his best to organize dinners at the Waldorf to assist Hungarian issues and relief. On one occasions an event was attended by the likes of Edward G. Robinson and pianist Doklady and some $60,000 was raised. Lang spent three years as director of The Four Seasons before starting his own consulting business. He pioneered the profession of restaurant consulting when in 1970 he started the George Lang Corporation. In 1975, Lang was awarded the Hotelman of the Year Award. The same year, he bought the
Café des Artistes Café des Artistes was a fine restaurant at 1 West 67th Street in Manhattan. New York City. It was owned by George Lang, who closed the restaurant in early August 2009 and announced later that month that the restaurant would remain closed per ...
, a restaurant popular with musicians, journalists, and others. Still, not every venture was successful forever. Café des Artistes closed in 2009 during the
Great Recession The Great Recession was a period of marked general decline, i.e. a recession, observed in national economies globally that occurred from late 2007 into 2009. The scale and timing of the recession varied from country to country (see map). At ...
, after experiencing steadily mounting losses and union troubles. In 1992, along with fellow Hungarian-American Ronald S. Lauder, son of famed cosmetics mogul Estée Lauder, Lang bought and restored the famous Budapest restaurant
Gundel Gundel is a well-known restaurant located in the Budapest City Park, Hungary. History A previous restaurant in the spot, ''Wampetich'', opened in 1894. In 1910, Károly Gundel took over the Wampetich's lease and operated the restaurant. His ...
. Lang's autobiography, entitled ''Nobody Knows the Truffles I've Seen'' (a reference to the spiritual "
Nobody Knows the Trouble I've Seen "Nobody Knows the Trouble I've Seen" is an African-American spiritual song that originated during the period of slavery but was not published until 1867. The song is well known and many cover versions of it have been done by artists such as Mar ...
"), was published by Knopf in 1998. He published several books on food and travel, including the classic reference ''The Cuisine of Hungary,'' a 1982 book reissued in 1994 as ''George Lang's Cuisine of Hungary'', and had a stint as a columnist for ''
Travel + Leisure Travel + Leisure Co. (formerly Wyndham Destinations, Inc. and Wyndham Worldwide Corporation) is an American timeshare company headquartered in Orlando, Florida. It develops, sells, and manages timeshare properties under several vacation ownershi ...
'' magazine. Lang married three times, had four children, and was divorced from his first two wives. He was married to the concert pianist, opera singer and actress Doe Lang, born Caplow. Their son Brian Lang is a concert violinist, and their daughter Andrea Lang was a graphic designer. Andrea died in a Santa Barbara wildfire in 1990 while attempting to flee her home. Lang, who was married to Jenifer Harvey Lang at the time of his death, had been treated for Alzheimer's disease and died at age 86 at his home in Manhattan. He was survived by his first and third wife, his son Brian, and two other children, daughter Georgina and son Simon.


References


Sources

* * Matt DeLucia,
George Lang - His Amazing Journey to Café Des Artistes
" ''Restaurant Insider'', March 2007. {{DEFAULTSORT:Lang, George 1924 births 2011 deaths American restaurateurs Hungarian Jews Hungarian emigrants to the United States Jewish escapees from Nazi concentration camps People from Székesfehérvár Auschwitz concentration camp survivors Food writers 20th-century travel writers American travel writers Waldorf Astoria New York James Beard Foundation Award winners