Major General John Geoffrey Bruce (4 December 1896 – 31 January 1972) was an officer in the
British Indian Army
The British Indian Army, commonly referred to as the Indian Army, was the main military of the British Raj before its dissolution in 1947. It was responsible for the defence of the British Indian Empire, including the princely states, which co ...
, eventually becoming Deputy Chief of General Staff, who participated in the
1922 British Mount Everest expedition. Bruce, who had never before climbed a mountain, had been appointed as a transport officer, but chance led to him accompanying
George Finch on the only summit attempt that used supplemental oxygen. Together they set a new
mountaineering world record height of , only below the summit of
Mount Everest.
Background and personal life
Geoffrey Bruce, born on 4 December 1896, was a son of Colonel Sir Gerald Bruce. He attended
Rugby School. Bruce married Marjorie Isabel Crump in 1932 and they had two daughters.
[Marjorie also had two older daughters by a previous marriage.] In 1922 he was described by his mountaineering colleague
George Finch as "tall, of athletic build, strong, endowed with a great fund of mental energy – an invaluable asset on ventures of this kind – and cheerful in any situation".
Wade Davis said Bruce was, in 1922, "one of the finest athletes in the Indian Army".
Military career
During the First World War, Bruce was
second lieutenant
Second lieutenant is a junior commissioned officer military rank in many armed forces, comparable to NATO OF-1 rank.
Australia
The rank of second lieutenant existed in the military forces of the Australian colonies and Australian Army until ...
in the
Glamorgan Yeomanry serving in
Egypt and
Palestine
__NOTOC__
Palestine may refer to:
* State of Palestine, a state in Western Asia
* Palestine (region), a geographic region in Western Asia
* Palestinian territories, territories occupied by Israel since 1967, namely the West Bank (including East ...
.
As an officer of the British Indian Army, Bruce took part in the
Third Anglo-Afghan War of 1919, and in 1921 he was awarded the
Military Cross.
He participated in the
North-West Frontier Province operations between 1920 and 1923, and again between 1937 and 1938.
He attended the
Staff College, Quetta from 1927 to 1928, and his fellow students included
Frederick Morgan,
Harold Briggs,
George Vasey,
E. L. M. Burns
Lieutenant General Eedson Louis Millard "Tommy" Burns, (June 17, 1897 – September 13, 1985) was a senior officer of the Canadian Army and a diplomat. He saw active service in both World War I and World War II. He served as the first commander of ...
,
David Cowan and
Horace Birks
Major General Horace Leslie Birks CB DSO (7 May 1897 – 25 March 1985) was a senior officer of the British Army who saw active service during both the First World War and the Second World War, where he commanded the 10th Armoured Division.
Mi ...
. He then attended the
RAF Staff College, Andover in 1932, before returning to the Staff College, Quetta, this time as an instructor, from 1933 to 1936. Bruce was promoted to
Commanding Officer
The commanding officer (CO) or sometimes, if the incumbent is a general officer, commanding general (CG), is the officer in command of a military unit. The commanding officer has ultimate authority over the unit, and is usually given wide latitu ...
(CO) of the 2nd Battalion
6th Gurkha Rifles in 1937.
He had a distinguished career during the
Second World War, at the beginning of which he was attending the
Imperial Defence College in
London, serving in Norway and France in 1940, before returning to India to command the
17th Indian Infantry Brigade
The 17th Indian Infantry Brigade was an infantry brigade formation of the Indian Army during World War II.
History
It was formed in November 1940, at the Delhi Cantonment in India and assigned to the 8th Indian Infantry Division. They were se ...
at the time of its formation. From 1944 to 1946 he was Deputy
Chief of the General Staff, India
The Chief of the General Staff, India was a senior military commander in the British Indian Army from 1906 to 1947, and in the independent Indian Army
The Indian Army is the land-based branch and the largest component of the Indian Arme ...
of the British Indian Army, and was then
General Officer Commanding (GOC) of the
Lahore District until his retirement in 1948.
He was Commandant of the
Civil Defence Staff College from 1952 to 1956.
1922 Mount Everest expedition
In 1922, at the age of 25, Bruce had no mountaineering experience except for hill scrambling in the
North-West Frontier, but he was invited by his cousin General
Charles Bruce, the leader of that year's Everest expedition, to take part as third transport officer and interpreter.
This was the first expedition with the specific aim of reaching the summit of the world's highest mountain.
While the expedition was ascending the
East Rongbuk Glacier at an elevation of about , many of the climbers and porters were suffering from dysentery and the effects of altitude, but Bruce maintained his full fitness. It had been intended that one of the assaults on the summit would be led by George Finch, using oxygen equipment. Bruce was willing to cooperate, although this sort of artificial aid was regarded with scepticism or even disdain by many members of the party. Finch was taken ill and, by the time he recovered, all the other lead climbers had set off higher up the mountain, so Finch had to assemble a team of untrained climbers.
On 24 May Finch and Bruce, accompanied by
Tejbir Bura
Lans-Naik Tejbir Bura was a Nepalese army officer, mountaineer and a gold medalist in mixed alpinism, as he was recognized during the 1924 Winter Olympics for his participation in the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition. He worked as a NCO of ...
, an
NCO Gurkha Army colleague of Bruce's, set off with a group of porters to reach the
North Col.
John Noel accompanied them as far as the Col to photograph and film progress. The next day, Finch, Bruce, and Tejbir climbed higher up towards the North Shoulder and camped the following night in hurricane conditions. After being forced to stay in camp the next day, they at last set off again, but Tejbir, at the point of collapse, had to return to the tent. To keep slightly sheltered from the strengthening wind, they started to traverse the North Face, without using ropes so as to save time. Suddenly the glass T-piece of Bruce's oxygen set broke, but Finch was able to replace it while they shared Finch's oxygen. After that, Bruce was unable to go higher and so, within a half-mile () of the summit, they turned back.
Three days earlier, the team of
George Mallory,
Teddy Norton, and
Howard Somervell, not using supplemental oxygen, had turned back at and now, on 27 May 1922, Finch and Bruce had set another world record height of , only below the summit; it was Bruce's first mountain climb.
In violent wind, they eventually got back to the North Col where Noel, fearing that no one could survive for so long in such conditions, had been burning unexposed film to act as flares to guide them. Bruce's feet were completely numb and Finch feared they might be lost to frostbite, although Bruce staged a full recovery and was able to return to his regiment later in the year.
Douglas Freshfield later described the climb as "one of the bravest mountaineering feats on record". Bruce wrote to Finch, "I can never thank you enough for electing to take me with you on that climb, or for the perfectly astonishing way you pulled me through it all. It was wonderful". At the
1924 Winter Olympics
The 1924 Winter Olympics, officially known as the I Olympic Winter Games (french: Iers Jeux olympiques d'hiver) and commonly known as Chamonix 1924 ( frp, Chamôni 1924), were a winter multi-sport event which was held in 1924 in Chamonix, France ...
, Bruce was one of the thirteen members of the expedition awarded an
Olympic gold medal.
[Medals were awarded to a further eight members of the team at the ]1924 Summer Olympics
The 1924 Summer Olympics (french: Jeux olympiques d'été de 1924), officially the Games of the VIII Olympiad (french: Jeux de la VIIIe olympiade) and also known as Paris 1924, were an international multi-sport event held in Paris, France. The op ...
1924 and later Everest expeditions
The next Everest expedition, which took place in 1924, was also led by General Charles Bruce, and this time Captain Geoffrey Bruce was one of the main climbers as well as being transport officer. General Bruce was taken ill with malaria on the march in and had to be evacuated to India, with Teddy Norton taking over as leader. During the march in, it had been decided to pair Bruce with
Noel Odell to make the expedition's desired third attempt on the summit (with oxygen). Later, on the East Rongbuk glacier, after bad weather had driven everyone back to base camp and a second approach was being made, the plan was for Mallory and Bruce to establish Camp V at about and then make the first summit bid.
Camp V went according to plan on 1 June, but the porters could not be persuaded to climb farther and everyone retreated back to the North Col. Norton and Somervell made a summit attempt on 4 June and managed to climb higher than Bruce and Finch had done in 1922.
[Norton and Somervell reached , setting a record that was to last until the Swiss expedition of 1952.] Mallory launched a third attempt on 8 June but this time he chose
Sandy Irvine
Andrew Comyn "Sandy" Irvine (8 April 1902 – 8 June 1924) was an English mountaineer who took part in the 1924 British Everest Expedition, the third British expedition to the world's highest (8,848 m) mountain, Mount Everest.
While a ...
as climbing partner. When Mallory and Irvine failed to return, the expedition was called off.
Bruce was later invited to be the leader of the
Everest expedition of 1933 and
of 1935, but was unable to accept due to his army commitments.
References
Citations
Works cited
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Further reading
*
* – memoir by one of Bruce's daughters
{{DEFAULTSORT:Bruce, Geoffrey
1896 births
1972 deaths
Academics of the Staff College, Quetta
English mountain climbers
People educated at Rugby School
Recipients of the Order of the Star of Nepal
Olympic gold medallists for Great Britain
Indian Army generals of World War II
Companions of the Order of the Bath
Recipients of the Military Cross
Companions of the Distinguished Service Order
Glamorgan Yeomanry officers
Graduates of the Staff College, Quetta
Alumni of the Royal College of Defence Studies
Recipients of the MacGregor Medal
British military personnel of the Third Anglo-Afghan War
British Army personnel of World War I
British Indian Army generals