Gardoš ( sr-cyr, Гардош;
Hungarian: Gárdos) is an
urban neighborhood of
Belgrade, the capital of
Serbia
Serbia (, ; Serbian: , , ), officially the Republic of Serbia (Serbian: , , ), is a landlocked country in Southeastern and Central Europe, situated at the crossroads of the Pannonian Basin and the Balkans. It shares land borders with Hungar ...
. It is located in Belgrade's municipality of
Zemun
Zemun ( sr-cyrl, Земун, ; hu, Zimony) is a municipality in the city of Belgrade. Zemun was a separate town that was absorbed into Belgrade in 1934. It lies on the right bank of the Danube river, upstream from downtown Belgrade. The developme ...
. Located on the slopes of the hill of the same name, with its tower and preserved old architecture, Gardoš is the major historical landmark of Zemun. Remnants of the Gardoš Fortress, built in the 14th century and the 15th century, are the oldest surviving parts of Zemun.
[
]
Location
Gardoš is one of three hills on which the historical core of Zemun was built (other two are Ćukovac and Kalvarija). Gardoš rises on the right bank of the Danube
The Danube ( ; ) is a river that was once a long-standing frontier of the Roman Empire and today connects 10 European countries, running through their territories or being a border. Originating in Germany, the Danube flows southeast for , p ...
and is the natural lookout to the area across the river (Crvenka
Crvenka () is a small town located in the municipality of Kula in the West Bačka District, Autonomous Province of Vojvodina, Serbia. The town has a Serbian ethnic majority, and it had a population of 9,001 in 2011.
Name
In Serbian, th ...
section of the Pančevački Rit in the municipality of Palilula). Gardoš borders the neighborhoods of Gornji Grad on the northwest, Ćukovac and Muhar on the south and Donji Grad on the southeast.
Geography
Gardoš, Ćukovac and Kalvarija hills are not natural features. Zemun loess plateau is the former southern shelf of the ancient, now dried, Pannonian Sea
The Pannonian Sea was a shallow ancient lake, where the Pannonian Basin in Central Europe is now. The Pannonian Sea existed from about 10 Ma (million years ago) until 1 Ma, during the Miocene and Pliocene epochs, when marine sediments were dep ...
. Modern area of Zemun's Donji Grad was regularly flooded by the Danube and the water would carve canals through the loess. Citizens would then build pathways along those canals and so created the passages, carving the hills out of the plateau. After massive 1876 floods, local authorities began the construction of the stony levee along the Danube's bank. Levee, a kilometer long, was finished in 1889. Today it appears that Zemun is built on several hills, with passages between them turned into modern streets, but the hills are actually manmade. Due to its position above the river, it has been an excellent military lookout through history. The hilly appearance is enhanced by the centuries of fortification of the Gardoš, mostly using stone from Belgrade's side of the Sava river, which made Gardoš even higher.
Loess terrain of Gardoš, Kalvarija, Ćukovac is one of the most active landslide areas in Belgrade. Being cut into for centuries, the loess in some sections have cliffs vertical up to 90%. Additionally, this area is known for ''lagums'', a vast network of underground corridors, which were used for supply and eventual hiding and evacuation. In the previous centuries, settlers left many vertical shafts which ventilated the lagums, drying the loess and keeping it compact. As the city of Zemun grew and got urbanized, the shafts in time were covered or filled with garbage. That way, the corridors retained the moist and began to collapse. Situation is critical after almost every downpour.
The lagums of Zemun, their length and branching, are sources of numerous urban myths. One is that some lagums, originating from a cellar below the vertical stairs at the bottom of the Gardoš Tower, actually go all the way below the Sava
The Sava (; , ; sr-cyr, Сава, hu, Száva) is a river in Central and Southeast Europe, a right-bank and the longest tributary of the Danube. It flows through Slovenia, Croatia and along its border with Bosnia and Herzegovina, and finally t ...
river, crossing to Belgrade and connecting Gardoš Fortress with the Belgrade Fortress
The Belgrade Fortress ( sr-Cyrl, Београдска тврђава, Beogradska tvrđava), consists of the old citadel (Upper and Lower Town) and Kalemegdan Park (Large and Little Kalemegdan) on the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, in a ...
across the river. Story originated in World War I
World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fightin ...
when Austrians actually hit the tower, bombing it from the Danube. Left staircase which lead to the cellar, collapsed burying the cellar. Local population believed this was done on purpose by the Austrians, to hide the underground corridors. After the war, a tunnel was dug from the present ground-floor gallery into the buried cellar, but it turned out there were no corridors out of it. Still, the myth survives.[
]
Characteristics
Neighborhood
Archaeological surveys showed that the area of the modern hill was almost continually inhabited during the past millennia, as the remains from the Neolithic
The Neolithic period, or New Stone Age, is an Old World archaeological period and the final division of the Stone Age. It saw the Neolithic Revolution, a wide-ranging set of developments that appear to have arisen independently in several p ...
, Eneolithic
The asterisk ( ), from Late Latin , from Ancient Greek , ''asteriskos'', "little star", is a typographical symbol. It is so called because it resembles a conventional image of a heraldic star.
Computer scientists and mathematicians often v ...
and Iron Age
The Iron Age is the final epoch of the three-age division of the prehistory and protohistory of humanity. It was preceded by the Stone Age ( Paleolithic, Mesolithic, Neolithic) and the Bronze Age ( Chalcolithic). The concept has been mostl ...
(the Celts
The Celts (, see pronunciation for different usages) or Celtic peoples () are. "CELTS location: Greater Europe time period: Second millennium B.C.E. to present ancestry: Celtic a collection of Indo-European peoples. "The Celts, an ancien ...
) have been found. The cliff-like ending section of the former Bežanija Loess Ridge was suitable for habitation for several reasons: it was an excellent natural lookout as the surrounding region is mostly flat; the land, prior to full urbanization, was fertile; elevation above the Danube's bank prevented damage from the regular floods of the surrounding lowlands. Later, the area was ruled by the Romans, Huns, Avars, Slavs and Hungarians.[
For the most part, the neighborhood preserved its old looks, with narrow, still mostly cobblestoned streets unsuitable for modern vehicles, and individual residential houses. As a curiosity, almost half of the neighborhood is occupied by Zemun's largest graveyard. As a popular promenade become somewhat of a fashionable place since the 1990s, several modern restaurants were built near the top of the hill with the view on the Danube.
]
Fortress
Gardoš Fortress, also known as the Zemun Fortress or the Citadela, is the oldest preserved part of Old Zemun and is considered one of Belgrade's best scenic viewpoint
A scenic viewpoint – also called an observation point, viewpoint, viewing point, vista point, lookout, scenic overlook,These terms are more commonly used in North America. etc. – is an elevated location where people can view scenery (often w ...
s. The existing walls are originating from the 14th and the 15th century. The fortress was built as part of the Hungarian project of restoring or building fortresses on their southern borders, including today also ruined but surviving Kupinik and Slankamen, as a response to the incoming Ottoman invasion. Gardoš had a major role in 1456 Siege of Belgrade, when Hungarian forces headed by John Hunyadi
John Hunyadi (, , , ; 1406 – 11 August 1456) was a leading Hungarian military and political figure in Central and Southeastern Europe during the 15th century. According to most contemporary sources, he was the member of a noble family of ...
repelled the Ottomans, and 1521 Siege of Belgrade, when the Ottomans, under the leadership of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent
Suleiman I ( ota, سليمان اول, Süleyman-ı Evvel; tr, I. Süleyman; 6 November 14946 September 1566), commonly known as Suleiman the Magnificent in the West and Suleiman the Lawgiver ( ota, قانونى سلطان سليمان, Ḳ ...
conquered both Belgrade and Zemun. The entire garrison stationed at Gardoš Fortress, headed by the Šajkaši
''Šajkaši'' (In Serbian, sr-cyrl, шајкаши, german: Tschaikisten) refers to the river flotilla troops guarding the Danube and Sava, and especially, the Port of Belgrade, against the Ottoman Empire from the 16th to the 19th century. Durin ...
troops, was killed in the fighting and the fortress was the last stand of the entire battle. A 1608 miniature by Maximilian Prandstatter shows the castle fully preserved, complete with the roof. Representations of the Zemun skyline in the later 17th century, however, show only ruins.
The medieval Zemun fortress is preserved in the remains of the citadel, which was known as the Little Town. The citadel is built in the Gothic style
Gothic or Gothics may refer to:
People and languages
*Goths or Gothic people, the ethnonym of a group of East Germanic tribes
**Gothic language, an extinct East Germanic language spoken by the Goths
** Crimean Gothic, the Gothic language spoken ...
. The square castle had four round towers, one on each side. The walls were made of broken stone pieces, with brick covering in limestone plaster. For the most part, only sections of the outer walls are preserved, so as three towers, up to high.[
The fortress was never properly reconstructed since the 17th century. The elements, further military excursions and local population which took stones from the walls to build their own houses, damaged it further. The fortress was placed under the state protection in 1948. By the 21st century, the neglect of the fortress became obvious. The outer layer of the plaster completely fell off the brick walls, Because of the subsiding terrain, the southeast tower collapsed, threatening the houses below the fortress. Additionally, the illegal construction of the buildings nearby damaged the fortress further.][
During the excavations in the late 2010s, digging the old trenches on the outer side of the southwest tower, two arched, opposing entries into the towers were discovered. They are located some below the present ground level of the modern Gardoš Tower, as the terrain was additionally filled to make foundations for it. During the archaeological surveys in 2012–2013, two excellently preserved Roman graves with numerous artifacts and intact skeletons were discovered. They are located between the eastern and southern tower and were dated to the 2nd or the 3rd century AD.][
The reconstruction project was drafted in 2016.][ In March 2018 it was announced that the top plateau of the hill and the area surrounding the tower will be revitalized. Without public ]architectural design competition
An architectural design competition is a type of design competition in which an organization that intends on constructing a new building invites architects to submit design proposals. The winning design is usually chosen by an independent panel ...
, the job was directly entrusted to architect Ksenija Bulatović by Milutin Folić, Belgrade's city architect, and Dejan Matić, president of Zemun municipality. The reconstructed area will cover . The existing stairways which connect the tower with the city below will be expanded, while two panoramic elevators will be built, one to the Muhar (Square of Branko Radičević) and other to the Zemunski Kej, and the projected international pier
Seaside pleasure pier in Brighton, England. The first seaside piers were built in England in the early 19th century.">England.html" ;"title="Brighton, England">Brighton, England. The first seaside piers were built in England in the early 19th ...
on the Danube, which will be constructed in the future. Existing open air facilities, like the restaurant and an amphitheater, will be covered. The remaining open area is envisioned as a "summer stage, artistic colony, fitness zone". The project, which basically includes covering of the fortress plateau with concrete, was criticized by the public and other architects. Reconstruction began in March 2019.
City administration itself devised a reconstruction plan for the fortress walls. All four corner towers of the former fort will be refurbished. Three existing ones were revitalized, while the fourth, which was demolished, was reconstructed as much as possible. Existing towers protrude for above the remains of the fortress, while the fourth will be half of that height, so that the panoramic view on Zemun will be preserved.[ The reconstruction project of the fortress is work of architects and art conservators Aleksandra Dabižiċ, Ljiljana Konta and Rade Mrlješ.][ The works began in December 2018 and were finished in December 2019.
]
Tower
The major attraction in the neighborhood is the ''Kula Sibinjanin Janka'' (The tower of Janos Hunyadi
John Hunyadi (, , , ; 1406 – 11 August 1456) was a leading Hungarian military and political figure in Central and Southeastern Europe during the 15th century. According to most contemporary sources, he was the member of a noble family of ...
) or the Millennium tower, also known as the Tower on the hill or simply the Gardoš tower. It was built and officially opened on 20 August 1896 to celebrate a thousand years of Hungarian settlement in the Pannonian plain
The Pannonian Basin, or Carpathian Basin, is a large basin situated in south-east Central Europe. The geomorphological term Pannonian Plain is more widely used for roughly the same region though with a somewhat different sense, with only the ...
. It was part of the massive construction effort which included buildings in Budapest
Budapest (, ; ) is the capital and most populous city of Hungary. It is the ninth-largest city in the European Union by population within city limits and the second-largest city on the Danube river; the city has an estimated population ...
as well as four millennium towers on four directions of the world. Being the southernmost city in then Hungary within the Austria-Hungary
Austria-Hungary, often referred to as the Austro-Hungarian Empire,, the Dual Monarchy, or Austria, was a constitutional monarchy and great power in Central Europe between 1867 and 1918. It was formed with the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of ...
, the tower was built on the ruins of the medieval
In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the late 5th to the late 15th centuries, similar to the post-classical period of global history. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire ...
fortress on Gardoš hill which barely survived today (only angular towers and parts of the defending wall). The tower was built as a combination of various styles, mostly influenced by the Roman elements. Being a natural lookout, it was used by Zemun's firemen for decades. Today, the tower is better known after the Janos Hunyadi, who actually died in the old fortress four and a half centuries before the tower was built.
Churches
Saint Nicholas Church
Church dedicated to Saint Nicholas (''Nikolajevska crkva'') is located on the eastern slopes of the hill. It is actually devoted to the Translation of the Relics of Saint Nicholas from Myra to Bari
The Translation of the Relics of Saint Nicholas from Myra to Bari is a religious and folk holiday among the East Slavs and, to a lesser extent, the South Slavs and Eastern Romance peoples. It is celebrated on May 9 each year. For Old (Julian) ...
, commemorating the 22 May 1087. Today is considered the oldest church on territory of urban Belgrade. It was mentioned for the first time in the 1578 diary of German theologian Stephan Gerlach who wrote that Serbs had a small church in the "village of Zemun", partially roofed with straw and wooden planks. A modest temple dedicated to Saint Nicholas was built from 1717 to 1731. Modern church was built from 1745, when the Austrian authorities granted a permit, to 1752. Modern clergy house
A clergy house is the residence, or former residence, of one or more priests or ministers of religion. Residences of this type can have a variety of names, such as manse, parsonage, rectory or vicarage.
Function
A clergy house is typically ow ...
, or parochial home, was built in the churchyard, on the location of the first Serbian school in this area. The school was founded in 1745 and one of the teachers was Joakim Vujić.
Baroque iconostasis from 1762 is the work of Dimitrije Bačević Dimitrije Bačević (1735–1770) was a Serbian icon painter and muralist in the Baroque style.
Biography
Bačević studied painting at the workshop of Vasilije Romanovich and Jov Vasilijevich who came to Sremski Karlovci from Kyiv, Imperial Rus ...
, while some of the interior ornaments are even older, from the 17th century. Wall paintings are not classical frescoes
Fresco (plural ''frescos'' or ''frescoes'') is a technique of mural painting executed upon freshly laid ("wet") lime plaster. Water is used as the vehicle for the dry-powder pigment to merge with the plaster, and with the setting of the plaster ...
, the ''al secco'' technique was used instead - oil paints on wall plaster. The church was reconstructed from 2007 to 2020. The statics of the building had to be repaired, as the walls began to crack and the pond was created under the foundations. By 2010, when the conservatory works began, the concrete ring girder was built on the outside, the counterweight
A counterweight is a weight that, by applying an opposite force, provides balance and stability of a mechanical system. The purpose of a counterweight is to make lifting the load faster and more efficient, which saves energy and causes less wea ...
s were placed on the inside and the object was dried.[
The church holds pieces (''čestice'') of several valuable relics: Saint Andrew the First-Called, Saint Nicholas, Saint Petka, Saint Nectarios and ]Saint Stephen
Stephen ( grc-gre, Στέφανος ''Stéphanos'', meaning "wreath, crown" and by extension "reward, honor, renown, fame", often given as a title rather than as a name; c. 5 – c. 34 AD) is traditionally venerated as the protomartyr or first ...
.[
Saint Demetrius Church
From 1874 to 1876, the church dedicated to ]Demetrius of Thessaloniki
Saint Demetrius (or Demetrios) of Thessalonica ( el, Ἅγιος Δημήτριος τῆς Θεσσαλονίκης, (); bg, Димитър Солунски (); mk, Свети Димитрија Солунски (); ro, Sfântul Dumitru; sr ...
was built in the Serbian Orthodox section of the Zemun cemetery. On the bequest
A bequest is property given by will. Historically, the term ''bequest'' was used for personal property given by will and ''deviser'' for real property. Today, the two words are used interchangeably.
The word ''bequeath'' is a verb form for the act ...
given by his wife Marija, the church was built by the wealthy merchant Grigorije Hariš, originally from Novi Sad
Novi Sad ( sr-Cyrl, Нови Сад, ; hu, Újvidék, ; german: Neusatz; see below for other names) is the second largest city in Serbia and the capital of the autonomous province of Vojvodina. It is located in the southern portion of the Pan ...
. Marija came from another affluent merchant family, the Zemun's family Pavlović whose family patron was the Saint Demetrius. After her death, Hariš and their sons, Dimitrije and Konstantin, built the church which is colloquially styled by the Zemun's resident as the Hariš Chapel. The church was completely reconstructed from 2017 to 2020.
Zemun Cemetery
Zemun Cemetery is a public cemetery situated in Zemun on the Gardoš, Gardoš Hill. It is bounded by Stefan Dušan, Cara Dušana Street, Nada Dimić, Nade Dimić Street, John Hunyadi, Sibinjanin Janka Street and Grobljanska Street, as well as with ...
Situated right next to the Millennium Tower on Gardoš Hill, Zemun’s cemetery is unique in Balkan terms. The region is full of cemeteries respecting the dead of the three major religions, yet Zemun’s graveyard brings the trio together. Orthodox Christians, Catholics, Muslims and Jews are buried throughout the grounds, and there are a number of solemn monuments included as well.
Culture
There is a theater called "Teatar Gardoš" but it is located south of the neighborhood, on the Masaryk
Masaryk is a Czech surname. Notable people with the surname include:
* Alice Masaryk (1879–1966), Czech sociologist and one of the founding members of the Czechoslovak Red Cross, the daughter of Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk
* Charlotte Garrigue Mas ...
square in Donji Grad. The main cultural event is ''Leto na Gardošu'' (Summer in Gardoš), a series of mostly outdoors theatrical performances, held in July and August each year.
Gallery
References
External links
Gardoš
Gardoš virtuelna tura
{{DEFAULTSORT:Gardos
Neighborhoods of Belgrade
Hills of Serbia