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The Fillmore District is a historical neighborhood in
San Francisco San Francisco (; Spanish for " Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the fourth most populous in California and 17th ...
located to the southwest of
Nob Hill Nob Hill is a neighborhood of San Francisco, California, United States that is known for its numerous luxury hotels and historic mansions. Nob Hill has historically served as a center of San Francisco's upper class. Nob Hill is among the highes ...
, west of
Market Street Market Street may refer to: *Market Street, Cambridge, England *Market Street, Fremantle, Western Australia, Australia * Market Street, George Town, Penang, Malaysia *Market Street, Manchester, England *Market Street, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia ...
and north of the
Mission District The Mission District (Spanish: ''Distrito de la Misión''), commonly known as The Mission (Spanish: ''La Misión''), is a neighborhood in San Francisco, California. One of the oldest neighborhoods in San Francisco, the Mission District's name is ...
.Oaks, Robert F. San Francisco's Fillmore District. lectronic resource n.p.: Charleston, S.C. : Arcadia, c2005., 2005.Ignacio: USF Libraries Catalog, EBSCOhost. It has been given various nicknames such as “the Moe” or “the Fill”. The Fillmore District began to rise to prominence after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. As a result of not being affected by the earthquake itself nor the large fires that ensued, it quickly became one of the major commercial and cultural centers of the city. After the earthquake, the district experienced a large influx of diverse ethnic populations. It began to house large numbers of African Americans, Japanese and Jews. Each group significantly contributed to the local culture and earned the Fillmore district a reputation for being "One of the most diverse neighborhoods in San Francisco". In particular, the district was known for having the largest
jazz Jazz is a music genre that originated in the African-American communities of New Orleans, Louisiana in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with its roots in blues and ragtime. Since the 1920s Jazz Age, it has been recognized as a m ...
scene on the west coast of the United States up until its decline in the 1970s. A large Japantown was also historically located in the Fillmore District although technically it does not lie within the borders of the district today.McConnell, Amy. "Jazzed up: San Francisco's Fillmore district swings again." Sunset 2004: 42. General Reference Center Gold. Web. 31 Oct. 2016. During the late 1960s and 1970s, the Fillmore District underwent a large-scale redevelopment. This has largely led to a decline of the
jazz Jazz is a music genre that originated in the African-American communities of New Orleans, Louisiana in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with its roots in blues and ragtime. Since the 1920s Jazz Age, it has been recognized as a m ...
scene in the area. However, many people have claimed that
jazz Jazz is a music genre that originated in the African-American communities of New Orleans, Louisiana in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with its roots in blues and ragtime. Since the 1920s Jazz Age, it has been recognized as a m ...
in the district has made a large rebound in recent years. Even today, the redevelopment of the Fillmore remains a controversial issue. Many of the people who were forced to move from the district say that redevelopment was a "Negro Removal" and a product of racism.Harris, April L. "Fillmore District, San Francisco , The Black Past: Remembered and Reclaimed." Fillmore District, San Francisco. BlackPast, 2007. Web. 3 Nov. 2016. The city planners claim redevelopment was a way to combat the extremely high rates of crime in the area and to reinvigorate the local economy.Pepin, Elizabeth, and Lewis Watts. Harlem Of The West : The San Francisco Fillmore Jazz Era. n.p.: San Francisco : Chronicle Books, 2006., 2006. Ignacio: USF Libraries Catalog. Web. 24 Oct. 2016.


Location

Though its boundaries are not clearly-defined, it is usually considered to be the subset of the Western Addition neighborhood and is roughly bordered by
Van Ness Avenue Van Ness Avenue is a north–south thoroughfare in San Francisco, California. Originally named Marlette Street, the street was renamed Van Ness Avenue in honor of the city's sixth mayor, James Van Ness. The main part of Van Ness Avenue runs fro ...
on the east,
Divisadero Street This is a list of streets in San Francisco, California. They are grouped by type: arterial thoroughfares, commercial corridors, and other streets. Arterial thoroughfares * 19th Avenue that bisects the western part of the city, extending from I ...
on the west,
Geary Boulevard Geary Boulevard (designated as Geary Street east of Van Ness Avenue) is a major east–west thoroughfare in San Francisco, California, United States, beginning downtown at Market Street near Market Street's intersection with Kearny Street, an ...
on the north, and Grove Street on the south. These delineations are approximate and there are certain irregularities in the geographic shape of the neighborhood; for instance, the Westside Housing Projects are generally considered to be part of the Fillmore District, even though they are located a block west of Divisadero and a block north of Geary. The community also extends south of Grove St. at several points.
Fillmore Street Fillmore Street is a street in San Francisco, California which starts in the Lower Haight neighborhood and travels northward through the Fillmore District and Pacific Heights and ends in the Marina District. It serves as the main thoroughfare an ...
, from which the district gets its name, is the main north-south thoroughfare running through the center of the district. The area east of Fillmore St. is locally referred to as Downtown Fillmore, while the area to the west of Fillmore is known by many locals as Uptown Fillmore. Some definitions, particularly older ones, include Hayes Valley,
Japantown is a common name for Japanese communities in cities and towns outside Japan. Alternatively, a Japantown may be called J-town, Little Tokyo or , the first two being common names for Japantown, San Francisco, Japantown, San Jose and Little ...
, and what is now known as North of Panhandle as part of the district and extend the western border further. However, redevelopment — for example, that which followed the Loma Prieta earthquake and the collapse of the Central Freeway — has made these areas more independent and distinct. In addition, the area centered on Fillmore Street to the north of Geary had long been uniformly known as Upper Fillmore, but rising property values in the 1980s and 1990s severely weakened its ties to the largely working-class Fillmore District. Instead, it became increasingly tied to the extremely wealthy
Pacific Heights Pacific Heights is a neighborhood in San Francisco, California. It has panoramic views of the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco Bay, the Palace of Fine Arts, Alcatraz, and the Presidio. The Pacific Heights Residents Association defines the neig ...
neighborhood to the north. This change in socio-economic identity has caused the Upper Fillmore to be commonly called "Lower Pacific Heights" in recent times, especially by its non-native residents. Overall, most locals agree that the Fillmore has been steadily shrinking for several decades. The Fillmore is almost entirely in San Francisco's fifth supervisorial district, with a small sliver on the district's eastern edge in District 3.


History

The Fillmore district was created in the 1880s to provide new space for the city to grow in an effort to address overcrowding. After the 1906 earthquake Fillmore Street, which had largely avoided heavy damage, temporarily became a major commercial center as the city's downtown rebuilt and began a period where the district where migrant groups from Jews to Japanese and then African-Americans predominated. Redevelopment programs in the 1960s led to displacement and loss of the district's jazz and cultural scene.


Jewish community

After the 1906 earthquake, Jewish emigrants from Eastern Europe and those displaced from the SOMA district settled in the Fillmore. Jewish-owned businesses opened on Fillmore and McAllister streets to serve the community. The district had three synagogues, a Yiddish Cultural Center and a school. The Fillmore was considered the center of the Jewish community in San Francisco in the early 20th century.


Japanese immigration and internment

A significant Japanese population has existed since the San Francisco Earthquake in 1906. The Japanese created a
Japantown is a common name for Japanese communities in cities and towns outside Japan. Alternatively, a Japantown may be called J-town, Little Tokyo or , the first two being common names for Japantown, San Francisco, Japantown, San Jose and Little ...
that still exists close to its original location today. In 1906, there were approximately 5,000 Japanese who lived within that section of town, making them the largest minority of the Fillmore district for a significant period of time.San Francisco's Japantown. n.p.: Charleston, S.C. : Arcadia,
005 ''005'' is a 1981 arcade game by Sega. They advertised it as the first of their RasterScan Convert-a-Game series, designed so that it could be changed into another game in minutes "at a substantial savings". It is one of the first examples of a ...
2005. Ignacio: USF Libraries Catalog. Web. 31 Oct. 2016.
Like many of the ethnic groups in San Francisco, the Japanese faced discrimination. The type of discrimination a Japanese person could expect to face was slightly different than the discrimination an African American would face. Many Americans perceived the Japanese as foreigners and as citizens of another country. It was a widely held belief that the Japanese in
San Francisco San Francisco (; Spanish for " Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the fourth most populous in California and 17th ...
and the Fillmore were still loyal to Japan even though many were 2nd or 3rd generation American citizens. One Ozawa court case ruling exemplified this type of racism when it described the Japanese as “Aliens ineligible to citizenship”.Lai, Clement. "The Racial Triangulation Of Space: The Case Of Urban Renewal In San Francisco's Fillmore District."Annals Of The Association Of American Geographers 102.1 (2012): 151-170. SocINDEX with Full Text. Web. 24 Oct. 2016. This systemic racism towards the Japanese would eventually fuel the decision for the Issuing of executive order 9066 by president Franklin Roosevelt and the internment of all Japanese citizens. After the war, the Japanese slowly migrated back to the Fillmore district and the Japanese population would make its way back to pre-war levels within a few years. Noted Japanese monk
Nyogen Senzaki Nyogen Senzaki (千崎 如幻, 1876–1958) was a Rinzai Zen monk who was one of the 20th century's leading proponents of Zen Buddhism in the United States. Early life Details of Senzaki's early life are unclear. Town records in Fukaura, Aom ...
, who is credited with introducing
Zen Buddhism Zen ( zh, t=禪, p=Chán; ja, text= 禅, translit=zen; ko, text=선, translit=Seon; vi, text=Thiền) is a school of Mahayana Buddhism that originated in China during the Tang dynasty, known as the Chan School (''Chánzong'' 禪宗), an ...
in the United States opened the first zendo in an apartment on Bush Street in the Fillmore.


African-American community

Although some African Americans were present in the Fillmore District after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, it would not be until
WWII World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
when the Fillmore District and
San Francisco San Francisco (; Spanish for " Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the fourth most populous in California and 17th ...
as a whole began to have a large African-American population. Between the years of 1940 and 1950 the African American population of
San Francisco San Francisco (; Spanish for " Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the fourth most populous in California and 17th ...
grew from 4,836 to 43,460. The African American population went from 0.5% of the city's total population to 4.5% of the city's total population. A vast majority of these African Americans went on to occupy the Fillmore District. This large migration of African Americans was largely due to three major factors. The first of these factors is that the Japanese internment in 1942 left a large number of unoccupied homes and businesses within the Fillmore. The second factor was that the shipbuilding industry and wartime economy created by
WWII World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
brought a large number of wartime jobs into the city.Miller, Paul T. The Postwar Struggle for Civil Rights: African Americans in San Francisco, 1945-1975. New York: Routledge, 2010. Print. The third factor was that Many African Americans left the south in the Great Migration in order to escape the
Jim Crow laws The Jim Crow laws were state and local laws enforcing racial segregation in the Southern United States. Other areas of the United States were affected by formal and informal policies of segregation as well, but many states outside the Sout ...
which existed there. The large Influx of African Americans during and after
WWII World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
created a large amount of racial tensions. Many African Americans were forced to live in certain neighborhoods of the city. The
Civil Rights Movement The civil rights movement was a nonviolent social and political movement and campaign from 1954 to 1968 in the United States to abolish legalized institutional racial segregation, discrimination, and disenfranchisement throughout the Unite ...
succeeded in making significant legal gains for African Americans and many other ethnic groups. However, there are still significant social tensions which still exist today. After the war, the African American population contributed significantly to the growing
jazz Jazz is a music genre that originated in the African-American communities of New Orleans, Louisiana in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with its roots in blues and ragtime. Since the 1920s Jazz Age, it has been recognized as a m ...
culture in the Fillmore, with clubs, such as Jimbo's Bop City (ca 1950-1965), flourishing there. In addition, the trend of African American migration to the city and the district continued at a fast pace until it reached a peak of about 13 percent in the 1970s. However, during the 1970s the Fillmore District was at the forefront of the redevelopment effort going on in the city. Many people ascribe that this redevelopment led to the decline of the Fillmore district as a center for
jazz Jazz is a music genre that originated in the African-American communities of New Orleans, Louisiana in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with its roots in blues and ragtime. Since the 1920s Jazz Age, it has been recognized as a m ...
and African Americans. Since redevelopment started in the 1970s, the African American population in
San Francisco San Francisco (; Spanish for " Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the fourth most populous in California and 17th ...
went from around 13 percent to just under 6 percent of the overall population in 2010. There appears to be no sign that the trend will reverse any time soon.


Redevelopment and displacement

After
WWII World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
, the city government began to grow increasingly wary of the supposed instability of the Fillmore District. In Lai Clement's article on the Fillmore district he stated that "At a 1948 public hearing, State Senator O’Gara noted that the Fillmore was the city's worst blighted area with metastasizing ramifications for the city's citizenry and other districts". Whether it really was or not is still up for debate. In general, the Fillmore District was seen as a district that was filled with poverty and in desperate need of remodeling. As a result, the city government of
San Francisco San Francisco (; Spanish for " Saint Francis"), officially the City and County of San Francisco, is the commercial, financial, and cultural center of Northern California. The city proper is the fourth most populous in California and 17th ...
established the San Francisco redevelopment agency (RDA) in order to spearhead the redevelopment effort. The city focused its efforts into two main redevelopment projects known as A-1 and A-2. The A-1 redevelopment project began in 1956 and lasted until 1973. A-1 Primarily focused on the Japan town side of the Fillmore and had the JCTC (Japanese Cultural and Trade Center) as its so called “center piece”. The project covered 28 city blocks, displaced around 8,000 people and destroyed 6,000 low renting housing units. The A-2 redevelopment project was started in 1966 and lasted until the end of the 1970s. This project spanned about 70 city blocks around the A-1 redevelopment area. It would end up displacing up to 13,500 residents, destroying 4,522 households and 5,000 low rent housing units. The A-1 redevelopment project was considered to be a fantastic success by the RDA because it significantly boosted the economy in the area. However, both the A-1 and the A-2 projects were met with a large amount of popular resistance. Many of the people who criticized the redevelopment project were the many who were forcibly removed from the area. In particular, the A-2 redevelopment project was often described as being a disaster for the overall culture present in the Fillmore and was definitely the more unpopular of the two projects. Specifically, the A-2 project was considered to be detrimental to the
jazz Jazz is a music genre that originated in the African-American communities of New Orleans, Louisiana in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with its roots in blues and ragtime. Since the 1920s Jazz Age, it has been recognized as a m ...
scene in the area according to many anti redevelopment organizations such as WACO. Forced to confront the growing amount of popular unrest, the RDA justified its redevelopment projects by saying that any former residents would be able to come back to their homes after the redevelopment was finished. The RDA also argued that the redevelopment projects would spur a new economic boom in the area. However, both of these statements turned out to be false. The increased housing prices of the redeveloped area would force many of the former residents to move away because they couldn't afford the newly built housing. Also, the envisioned economic boom of the A-2 project never came. Investors and developers were not willing to establish the commercial stores in the rebuilt area for a few different reasons. First, developers would not come to the area because it was likely to cause traffic problems for potential shoppers. Second, there was considerable backlash from proposition 14 that might threaten potential investors development. Finally, developers did not want to invest in commercial stores in the area because there was still a racialized stigma that the Fillmore District was a "bad" neighborhood. As a result of the project's displacement of residents and businesses, its mixed and arguably discriminatory economic impact, and its design (featuring mid-century renewal concepts such as superblocks and strict separation of uses), the redevelopment of the Fillmore is considered by most to have been unsuccessful and regrettable. Post-redevelopment, encroaching gentrification and the physical decay of cheaply constructed housing complexes have led to a neighborhood of stark contrasts between rich and poor. As of 2001, only 4% of the "Certificates of Preference" issued to businesses forced out by the RDA had been redeemed.


Urban renewal

In the 1990s–2000s, the neighborhood underwent another wave of urban renewal and gentrification in the form of a new "Jazz District" along Fillmore Street with mostly upscale jazz-themed restaurants, and proposed condominium construction.


Financial role

After the collapse of Market Street during the 1906 earthquake, many of the commercial businesses and financial institutions moved to the Fillmore District. Since then, the Fillmore has played a vital role in the economy of San Francisco. However, after most of Market Street was rebuilt, many businesses moved back and the Financial District once again eclipsed the Fillmore district in terms of economic importance.


Landmarks and features

Fillmore Street, the neighborhood's main commercial strip, reflects Fillmore's diversity: family-owned neighborhood-serving retail mixes with chain stores, jazz clubs, and ethnic restaurants of many varieties. Some of the stores, restaurants, and clubs lost to redevelopment are memorialized by plaques on the sidewalk. There is a branch of the San Francisco public library located at Geary and Scott.


Fillmore Auditorium

The historic Fillmore Auditorium is located in the neighborhood at the corner of
Geary Boulevard Geary Boulevard (designated as Geary Street east of Van Ness Avenue) is a major east–west thoroughfare in San Francisco, California, United States, beginning downtown at Market Street near Market Street's intersection with Kearny Street, an ...
and
Fillmore Street Fillmore Street is a street in San Francisco, California which starts in the Lower Haight neighborhood and travels northward through the Fillmore District and Pacific Heights and ends in the Marina District. It serves as the main thoroughfare an ...
. A major national concert venue famous as the focus point of the psychedelic music scene during the 1960s, it was home to early concerts by Jefferson Airplane and the Grateful Dead among others.


Jazz and blues

In the 1940s and 1950s, it was known as the "
Harlem Harlem is a neighborhood in Upper Manhattan, New York City. It is bounded roughly by the Hudson River on the west; the Harlem River and 155th Street on the north; Fifth Avenue on the east; and Central Park North on the south. The greater Ha ...
of the West" and attracted many leading jazz performers including Louis Armstrong,
John Coltrane John William Coltrane (September 23, 1926 – July 17, 1967) was an American jazz saxophonist, bandleader and composer. He is among the most influential and acclaimed figures in the history of jazz and 20th-century music. Born and raise ...
,
Ella Fitzgerald Ella Jane Fitzgerald (April 25, 1917June 15, 1996) was an American jazz singer, sometimes referred to as the "First Lady of Song", "Queen of Jazz", and "Lady Ella". She was noted for her purity of tone, impeccable diction, phrasing, timing, in ...
,
Billie Holiday Billie Holiday (born Eleanora Fagan; April 7, 1915 – July 17, 1959) was an American jazz and swing music singer. Nicknamed "Lady Day" by her friend and music partner, Lester Young, Holiday had an innovative influence on jazz music and pop s ...
and the "Bird" (
Charlie Parker Charles Parker Jr. (August 29, 1920 – March 12, 1955), nicknamed "Bird" or "Yardbird", was an American jazz saxophonist, band leader and composer. Parker was a highly influential soloist and leading figure in the development of bebop, a form ...
). Fillmore Street was filled with nightclubs. Jimbo's Bop City is reported to be the only venue to host Parker and Armstrong together at the same time. As part of efforts in the 1990s to revitalize the Fillmore district, the San Francisco Redevelopment Agency created the Historic Fillmore Jazz Preservation District to encourage the development of entertainment and commercial businesses in this historical area. A Jazz Heritage Center was created within a major new apartment and commercial development, the Fillmore Heritage Center, which housed the San Francisco branch of
Yoshi's Yoshi's (also known as Yoshi's Jazz Club and Yoshi's Oakland) is a nightclub located in Jack London Square in Oakland, California, United States. The venue originally opened in 1972 as a restaurant in Berkeley, later moving to Claremont Avenu ...
jazz club. In 2012, Yoshi's SF filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy, and in 2014 it closed and was replaced by The Addition which closed its doors on January 14, 2015. Many nightclubs (Leola Kings Bird Cage, Wesley Johnson's Texas PlayHouse, Shelton's Blue Mirror, and Jacks of Sutter) existed on the Fillmore, bringing major musical icons to the neighborhood including
Ella Fitzgerald Ella Jane Fitzgerald (April 25, 1917June 15, 1996) was an American jazz singer, sometimes referred to as the "First Lady of Song", "Queen of Jazz", and "Lady Ella". She was noted for her purity of tone, impeccable diction, phrasing, timing, in ...
, Louis Armstrong, and
Billie Holiday Billie Holiday (born Eleanora Fagan; April 7, 1915 – July 17, 1959) was an American jazz and swing music singer. Nicknamed "Lady Day" by her friend and music partner, Lester Young, Holiday had an innovative influence on jazz music and pop s ...
.


Markets and festivals

A farmer's market is held at the Fillmore Center Plaza on Saturday mornings, year round. The market features local jazz musicians as well as California-grown produce. The Fillmore Street Jazz Festival is held annually in July. The Fillmore Fridays Outdoor Music and Cinema Series is held Friday evenings between August and October. The Juneteenth Festival (Emancipation of Enslaved African Americans) is held every June 19th.


Public transit

The neighborhood, thanks to its central location, is served by several Muni bus lines including the 22, 21, 24, 38, 31, 43, 47, 49, and 5.


References


Further reading

* Elizabeth Pepin; Lewis Watts. (2006). ''Harlem of the West : the San Francisco Fillmore jazz era.'' San Francisco: Chronicle Books. .


External links


The Fillmore District website
– community website for the Fillmore District, the Heart and Soul of San Francisco.
The Fillmore
– official site of 2001
KQED-TV KQED (channel 9) is a PBS member television station licensed to San Francisco, California, United States, serving the San Francisco Bay Area. The station is owned by KQED Inc., alongside fellow PBS station KQEH (channel 54) and NPR member KQED ...
documentary.


"The Revitalization of the Fillmore"
by Michael Doherty and Meryl Block, ''Urban Action'', 2001.
Things To Do At Upper Fillmore Street

San Francisco Redevelopment Agency: Western Addition A-1

Jazz Heritage Center, a new Fillmore non-profit dedicated to jazz history of the neighborhood and San Francisco
{{Coord, 37.78086, N, 122.42542, W, display=title Neighborhoods in San Francisco Western Addition, San Francisco African-American history in San Francisco