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Falkland Palace, in
Falkland, Fife Falkland ( gd, Fàclann), previously in the Lands of Kilgour ( 1200), is a village, parish and former royal burgh in Fife, Scotland, at the foot of the Lomond Hills. According to the 2008 population estimate, it has a population of 1,180. Etym ...
, Scotland, is a royal palace of the
Scottish Kings The monarch of Scotland was the head of state of the Kingdom of Scotland. According to tradition, the first King of Scots was Kenneth I MacAlpin (), who founded the state in 843. Historically, the Kingdom of Scotland is thought to have grown ...
. It was one of the favourite places of Mary, Queen of Scots, providing an escape from political and religious turmoil. Today it is under the stewardship of Ninian Stuart, who delegates most of his duties to The National Trust for Scotland. The Chapel Royal in the Palace is dedicated to Thomas the Apostle, and is also open to the public and reserved for Catholic worship.


History


Early years

A hunting lodge existed on the site in the 12th century. The lodge was expanded in the 13th century and became a castle which was owned by the
Earls of Fife The Earl of Fife or Mormaer of Fife was the ruler of the province of Fife in medieval Scotland, which encompassed the modern counties of Fife and Kinross. Due to their royal ancestry, the earls of Fife were the highest ranking nobles in the r ...
– the famous
Clan MacDuff Clan MacDuff or Clan Duff is a Lowland Scottish clan.Way, George and Squire, Romily. (1994). ''Collins Scottish Clan & Family Encyclopedia''. (Foreword by The Rt Hon. The Earl of Elgin KT, Convenor, The Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs). pp. ...
. The castle was built here because the site sits on a slight hill which could be defended. The surrounding land eventually became the Palace gardens. There was a great oak wood to the north between the royal stable and the River Eden, with many groves merging into the surrounding parkland. Timber was occasionally cut in the forest for royal ships of war. The castle would have been surrounded by meadows, fields, orchards, glades and Falkland Park which was a managed forest surrounded by a pale, a ditch with a fence on top of it. The pale would have been used to keep game inside the park for the royal family and courtiers to hunt. A park keeper maintained the Pale, and in 1469 the keeper Bannatyne lost his wages for not repairing it. In 1371 Isabella MacDuff, Countess of Fife acknowledged Robert Stewart,
Earl of Menteith The Mormaer or Earl of Menteith was the ruler of the province of Menteith in the Middle Ages. The first mormaer is usually regarded as Gille Críst (or Gilchrist), simply because he is the earliest on record. The title was held in a continuou ...
, son of Robert II, as her heir and made him keeper of the castle and forest of Falkland. In 1402 Stewart, by now Duke of Albany, imprisoned his nephew and rival David Stewart, Duke of Rothesay, the eldest son of Robert III, at Falkland. The incarcerated Duke eventually died from neglect and starvation. Albany was exonerated from blame by the
Parliament of Scotland The Parliament of Scotland ( sco, Pairlament o Scotland; gd, Pàrlamaid na h-Alba) was the legislature of the Kingdom of Scotland from the 13th century until 1707. The parliament evolved during the early 13th century from the king's council of ...
, but suspicions of foul play persisted, suspicions which never left Rothesay's younger brother the future King James I, and which would eventually lead to the downfall of the Albany Stewarts. After the execution of Albany's son Murdo in 1424, James I took possession of Falkland for the crown. Falkland became a popular retreat with all the Stewart monarchs. They practised falconry there and used the vast surrounding forests for hawking. Red deer and fallow deer were kept in the park for hunting, some brought from the
Torwood Torwood ( gd, Coille Tor) is a small village located north-northwest of Larbert, north-west of Falkirk and south-southeast of Stirling. Torwood lies within the Falkirk Council area of Scotland. The population recorded in the 2011 UK Census wa ...
Forest near Stirling.
Henry Kinghorn Henry Kinghorn or de Kingorne was a Scottish clergyman, courtier, and steward or seneschal to Mary of Guelders, the wife of James II of Scotland. He also held the financial office of Chamberlain in Garioch and Brechin. Most of what is known of his ...
and William Blair, two stewards of Mary of Guelders, the widow of James II of Scotland, were responsible for improvements at Falkland Palace in 1461-2. These included a stairway from the queen's chamber to the pleasance, new stables, a coal shed, repairs and an extension to the counting house, making andirons or firedogs for the queen's bedchamber and the fire grate of the great hall, and other works including the construction of two ponds in the hay yard. The royal carpenter was Andrew Lesouris. Improvements included a "galry" with two chambers, apparently the earliest use of the French-derived term "gallery" in Britain. James III and Margaret of Denmark came to Falkland in September 1473. The court of the Exchequer met at Falkland yearly to finalise the accounts of the jointure lands of his mother, Mary of Guelders.


James IV at Falkland

Between 1497 and 1541
James IV James IV (17 March 1473 – 9 September 1513) was King of Scotland from 11 June 1488 until his death at the Battle of Flodden in 1513. He inherited the throne at the age of fifteen on the death of his father, James III, at the Battle of Sauch ...
and James V transformed the old castle and royal lodgings into a beautiful renaissance royal palace. James enjoyed imported oranges at Falkland in April 1497 and gave a tip to the gardener and workmen building the dyke around the park. In May 1501 James IV hired two stonemasons from Dundee to work at the palace, and an hour glass was bought for time-keeping. On 13 December 1501 he was entertained at Falkland by the female minstrel Quhissilgibboun, and in September 1504 by fiddlers, lutenists, and an African drummer known as the "
More taubronar The More Taubronar (died 1507) was a musician of African origin at the court of James IV of Scotland and his wife Margaret Tudor. His name is unknown. A "taubron" was a kind of drum, the word is related to the modern form " tabor". The word "More" o ...
". A man from
Pittenweem Pittenweem ( ) is a fishing village and civil parish in Fife, on the east coast of Scotland. At the 2001 census, it had a population of 1,747. Etymology The name derives from Pictish and Scottish Gaelic. "Pit-" represents Pictish ''pett'' 'p ...
brought a live seal on 25 September 1502 and James IV gave him 14 shillings in reward. A new chapel (perhaps on the site of the present south quarter) was roofed in 1512 and masons were working on the Great Hall and the garden wall. James IV was entertained at Falkland by the "Wild Lady", who received £10 for her appearances in 1513. James IV brought deer-nets from
Kinneil House Kinneil House is a historic house to the west of Bo'ness in east-central Scotland. It was once the principal seat of the Hamilton family in the east of Scotland. The house was saved from demolition in 1936 when 16th-century mural paintings were ...
in November 1503. Andrew Matheson built a fold for deer in November 1505. A trap was made to "slay foxes in the park of Falkland". For a time in 1507 the horse of the French herald Montjoie, Gilbert Chauveau, was kept in the palace stables. In May 1508 James IV and John Methven stalked deer in the park with a firearm called a
culverin A culverin was initially an ancestor of the hand-held arquebus, but later was used to describe a type of medieval and Renaissance cannon. The term is derived from the French "''couleuvrine''" (from ''couleuvre'' "grass snake", following the La ...
. Later, wild boar, imported from France, were kept in the Park, within a fence made by the Laird of Fernie. There were also dairy and beef cattle.


James V, Mary of Guise, and Mary, Queen of Scots

The teenage James V was kept at Falkland Palace by the
Earl of Angus The Mormaer or Earl of Angus was the ruler of the medieval Scottish province of Angus. The title, in the Peerage of Scotland, is held by the Duke of Hamilton, and is used as a courtesy title for the eldest son of the Duke's eldest son. History ...
, and according to Robert Lindsay of Pitscottie, escaped to Stirling Castle which was held by his mother Margaret Tudor. His plan involved announcing an early morning deer hunt in the park then riding away in the middle of the night dressed as a stable hand. To address the poor state of the garden and park, James V appointed a new Captain and Keeper, William Barclay, Master of Rhynd, in March 1527. The Queen's Chamber was hung with tapestry for Margaret Tudor in September 1534. James V extended his father's buildings in French renaissance style from 1537 and built a Royal Tennis Court in the garden in 1541. The court still survives to this day and is the oldest in Britain. Mary, Queen of Scots, became especially fond of the game, and it is said that she scandalised the people of Scotland by wearing men's
breeches Breeches ( ) are an article of clothing covering the body from the waist down, with separate coverings for each leg, usually stopping just below the knee, though in some cases reaching to the ankles. Formerly a standard item of Western men's ...
to play. Limestone was quarried on the Lomond Hills and burnt in kilns to make mortar. The coping stone or "allering" for the tennis court was quarried at
Kingoodie Kingoodie ( gd, Ceann Gaothach or gd, Ceann na Gaoithe "windy head(land)") is a hamlet about south west of Dundee, but in the region of Perth and Kinross, Scotland. The shore is easily accessible and close to the Firth of Tay. Quarries close to ...
near Dundee and shipped to Lindores, north of the Palace on the
River Tay The River Tay ( gd, Tatha, ; probably from the conjectured Brythonic ''Tausa'', possibly meaning 'silent one' or 'strong one' or, simply, 'flowing') is the longest river in Scotland and the seventh-longest in Great Britain. The Tay originates ...
. Admidst these building works, the court still came to Falkland and in February 1539 one of Mary of Guise's French courtiers
Marie Pieris Marie Pieris, Lady Seton (circa 1520–1576) was a French lady in waiting at the Scottish court. She was the daughter of René Pierres, Seigneur du Plessis-Baudouin and Antoinette d'Hommes. The French Pierres family claimed to have descended from ...
married Lord Seton by
handfasting Handfasting is a traditional practice that, depending on the term's usage, may define an unofficiated wedding (in which a couple marries without an officiant, usually with the intent of later undergoing a second wedding with an officiant), a ...
. The French
apothecary ''Apothecary'' () is a mostly archaic term for a medical professional who formulates and dispenses '' materia medica'' (medicine) to physicians, surgeons, and patients. The modern chemist (British English) or pharmacist (British and North Americ ...
was also at Falkland on that day. Mary of Guise spent time embroidering her husband's shirts at Falkland with gold thread in October 1539. James V played cards with Mary of Guise during their visit in April 1540. While they were at the palace the clothes of his infant daughter by Elizabeth Beaton, the
Lady Jean Stewart Lady Jean Stewart (also known as Jane Stuart; c. 1533 – 7 January 1587/88), was an illegitimate daughter of King James V of Scotland by his mistress, Elizabeth Bethune (sometimes spelled ''Betoun'' or ''Beaton''). Childhood Jean was born be ...
, were washed. Thomas Melville's wife kept the royal family's pets. In August Mary of Guise went riding at Falkland in a new cloak of scarlet cloth edged with crimson velvet. The goldsmith John Mosman made a gilt chalice for their short-lived son Prince James and in July 1541 they sent it to Falkland to be used in the palace chapel. Robert Murray, the plumber who maintained the fountain at Linlithgow Palace, also provided lead work for a long vanished fountain at Falkland. James V died at Falkland Palace in December 1542, from an illness induced by the shock and grief of his army's defeat at Solway Moss and of his wife's failure to give him a male heir, instead giving birth to the future Mary, Queen of Scots. His body lay in the Chapel Royal for almost a month and the chapel was draped in black. On 4 January 1543 messengers ordered the gentlemen of Fife to convey the king's body to North Queensferry on its way to Holyrood Abbey. An inventory recorded a green velvet bed in the wardrobe at Falkland Palace with velvet covered posts, packed in coffers and travel bags called "sowmes". Mary, Queen of Scots was born at Linlithgow Palace and moved to Stirling Castle in July 1543. Her mother, Mary of Guise, sometimes travelled without her to stay at Falkland Palace. Mary of Guise was at Falkland in October 1546, and September 1549.
Regent Arran A regent (from Latin : ruling, governing) is a person appointed to govern a state ''pro tempore'' (Latin: 'for the time being') because the monarch is a minor, absent, incapacitated or unable to discharge the powers and duties of the monarchy, ...
's daughter, Anne Hamilton, joined Mary of Guise at Falkland in June 1553. Nearby
Myres Castle Myres Castle is a Scottish castle situated in Fife near the village of Auchtermuchty. Its history is interleaved with that of nearby Falkland Palace with present-day castle construction dating to 1530. The castle and magnificent Scottish garden ar ...
was the home of the Royal Macers and Sergeants at Arms who served Falkland Castle since at least the 16th century.
John Scrimgeour of Myres John Scrimgeour of Myres Castle near Falkland, Fife was Master of Work for royal buildings for James V and Mary, Queen of Scots, and Precentor of the Scottish Chapel Royal. Career He and his father held their lands by right of an hereditary offic ...
supervised building at the Palace from 1532 to 1563. He wrote to Mary of Guise about repairs to Falkland and its lead roofs, delayed by the frosts, and the carts he needed to bring stones to the palace and timber from the harbour at
Levenmouth Levenmouth is a conurbation comprising a network of settlements on the north side of the Firth of Forth, in Fife on the east coast of Scotland. It consists of three principal coastal towns; Leven, Buckhaven, and Methil, and a number of villages ...
. In May 1559 Scrimgeour repaired the stables and employed Adam Symmers to fix the palace windows, and he designed new ditches and fences for the garden. Mary, Queen of Scots, held her
Maundy Thursday Maundy Thursday or Holy Thursday (also known as Great and Holy Thursday, Holy and Great Thursday, Covenant Thursday, Sheer Thursday, and Thursday of Mysteries, among other names) is the day during Holy Week that commemorates the Washing of the ...
or "Skyris Thurisday" ceremony at Falkland in March 1562. She washed the feet of 19 young women, and John Balfour bought new linen cloth for aprons and towels which she gave to the maidens. The number of young women matched her age. She came for Easter in April 1563 and 1564. The queen's many visits to Falkland have been tracked in archival sources.


James VI and Anne of Denmark

In April 1582, James VI of Scotland made John Killoch and Robert Schaw keepers of all his tennis courts, and suppliers of his balls and rackets. James VI spent the summer of 1583 at Falkland, and the English diplomat Robert Bowes noted it was a "little house" unsuitable for holding a parliament. In 1584 James VI had the roofs repaired, and requested his tenants in Fife help carry slates, tiles, timber, sand and lime to the palace. He stayed in the palace during the plague in July 1585 and for fear of infection ordered people with no business in Falkland or at court to stay away. His guests in Fife in the summer of 1585 included the English ambassador Edward Wotton and three Danish envoys who came to discuss the Orkney and Shetland islands and the king's marriage. James VI held a meeting at Falkland in September 1587 to discuss his marriage plans after hearing from his ambassadors that the elder Danish Princess Elizabeth was promised to another. James VI married the younger Princess
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 – 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I; as such, she was Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and Queen of England and Ireland from the union of the Scottish and Engl ...
, and Falkland was included in the "
morning gift Dower is a provision accorded traditionally by a husband or his family, to a wife for her support should she become widowed. It was settled on the bride (being gifted into trust) by agreement at the time of the wedding, or as provided by law. ...
" that James VI gave to his bride. On 12 May 1590 the Danish ambassadors rode from Wemyss Castle to Falkland to evaluate the palace and her Fife lands. They were welcomed by the keeper James Beaton of Creich. The lawyer John Skene produced a charter of the queen's lands and as a traditional symbol of ownership the Danish Admiral Peder Munk was given a handful of earth and stone. After this ceremony, they rode to the Newhouse of Lochleven Castle. Another Danish ambassador
Paul Knibbe Paul Knibbe or Paulus Knibius or Knibbius (d. 1592) was a Flemish-born lawyer and diplomat in Danish service employed in England and Scotland. Early career Paul Knibbe was born in Tielt in West Flanders. Knibbe had a doctorate and had taught at ...
came to Falkland in July 1591. He brought a Danish gentlewoman, probably
Margaret Vinstarr Margaret Vinstarr (fl. 1590–1600), was a Danish or German courtier in Scotland to Anne of Denmark commemorated by the ballad " The Laird o Logie" for rescuing her imprisoned lover. A gentlewoman at the Scottish court of Anne of Denmark Margare ...
, to join the Queen's household. Around this time an African servant of Anne of Denmark, known only as " the Moir", identified as a "page of the equerry" who wore clothes of orange velvet and Spanish taffeta, died and was buried at Falkland, probably at the kirkyard of Kilgour.


Raid of Falkland

For five hours in the morning of 28 June 1592 Francis Stewart, Earl of Bothwell, with the Master of Gray, James Lumsden of Airdrie, the Laird of Niddrie, John Colville, and Spott with others including men from Cumbria attempted to capture the palace and James VI and Anne of Denmark. James VI had been warned of Bothwell's approach and had stayed at Falkland rather than go to Perth as he had planned. Bothwell's plans had been revealed to the English ambassador in Edinburgh, Robert Bowes, and he had told Richard Cockburn, the
Earl of Morton The title Earl of Morton was created in the Peerage of Scotland in 1458 for James Douglas of Dalkeith. Along with it, the title Lord Aberdour was granted. This latter title is the courtesy title for the eldest son and heir to the Earl of Morton. ...
, and the Master of Glamis that the king should "look narrowly about him". Bothwell crossed the
Forth Forth or FORTH may refer to: Arts and entertainment * ''forth'' magazine, an Internet magazine * ''Forth'' (album), by The Verve, 2008 * ''Forth'', a 2011 album by Proto-Kaw * Radio Forth, a group of independent local radio stations in Scotla ...
at Queensferry on 27 June with 400 men. The
Earl of Erroll Earl of Erroll () is a title in the Peerage of Scotland. It was created in 1453 for William Hay, 1st Earl of Erroll, Sir William Hay. The subsidiary titles held by the Earl of Erroll are ''Lord Hay'' (created 1449) and ''Lord Slains'' (1452), ...
and Colonel William Houston were at Falkland and they were arrested on suspicion of being inside-men. Bothwell's men attempted to batter down the back gate but were repulsed by gunshots before midnight on 27 June. The king withdrew to the gatehouse tower and his guard shot at Bothwell's men. According to James Melville the defenders who favoured Bothwell loaded their guns with paper rather than bullets. Bothwell abandoned the attack at 7 o'clock in the morning, and rode away with the king's horses. James Sandilands gave chase. He captured nine men whose horses tired, five were hanged in Edinburgh's Canongate, the others were ransomed. One of John Colville's servants was hanged, a packet of coded letters and a cipher was found in his possession. The English
border reiver Border reivers were Cattle raiding, raiders along the Anglo-Scottish border from the late 13th century to the beginning of the 17th century. They included both Scotland, Scottish and England, English people, and they raided the entire border ...
Richie Graham of Brackenhill and his companions sacked the town of Falkland, taking horses, clothing, and money. It was said that Bothwell had given a pep talk to his supporters, encouraging them to kill
Sir John Carmichael Sir John Carmichael (died 16 June 1600) was a Scottish soldier, the Keeper of Liddesdale, a diplomat, and owner of Fenton Tower at Kingston, East Lothian. Career He was the son of John Carmichael and Elizabeth Somerville, a daughter of Hugh So ...
, Sir George Home, and Roger Aston. A month later it was said that Bothwell was advancing towards Falkland again from Stirling Bridge, and some of his men had landed in boats at a creek near
Aberdour Castle Aberdour Castle is in the village of Easter Aberdour, Fife, Scotland. Parts of the castle date from around 1200, making Aberdour one of the two oldest datable standing castles in Scotland, along with Castle Sween in Argyll, which was built ...
. The king was forewarned by Harry Lindsay and prepared for another fight. The
Earl of Argyll Earl () is a rank of the nobility in the United Kingdom. The title originates in the Old English word ''eorl'', meaning "a man of noble birth or rank". The word is cognate with the Old Norse, Scandinavian form ''jarl'', and meant "Germanic ch ...
rode from his wedding party at Dalkeith Palace to help the king. Men in arms were summoned from Edinburgh, Haddington and Linlithgow to fight the rebel earl. However, Robert Bowes was told it was a deliberate false alarm, possibly intended to make the king move from Falkland to a less secure location. Bothwell also attempted to corner the King in Holyroodhouse.


Deer from England

Queen Elizabeth sent deer for the park in 1586 and 1587, and again in 1591 from parks near
Colchester Colchester ( ) is a city in Essex, in the East of England. It had a population of 122,000 in 2011. The demonym is Colcestrian. Colchester occupies the site of Camulodunum, the first major city in Roman Britain and its first capital. Colches ...
. Some huntsmen and bucks were sent to James VI in August 1586 by the English ambassador Thomas Randolph and the Scottish ambassador in London, Archibald Douglas. Randolph wrote:
I have sent the Kynge two hunting men, verie good and skillful, with one footman, that can hoop, hollow and crye, that all the trees in Fawkland will quake for fear. Pray the Kynge's Majestie to be mercifull to the poor bucks; but let him spare and look well to himself.
In May 1592 the English ambassador Robert Bowes went to
Barnard Castle Barnard Castle (, ) is a market town on the north bank of the River Tees, in County Durham, Northern England. The town is named after and built around a medieval castle ruin. The town's Bowes Museum's has an 18th-century Silver Swan automat ...
, Raby Castle and
Brancepeth Castle Brancepeth Castle is a castle in the village of Brancepeth in County Durham, England, some 5 miles south-west of the city of Durham (). It is a Grade I listed building. History A succession of buildings has been on the site. The first was a No ...
with the English-born royal huntsman
Cuthbert Rayne Cuthbert Rayne or Reyne or Raine was an English huntsman who served James VI of Scotland. James VI employed several English hunters and kennelmen who organised his field sports and looked after his dogs, including "Robert the English hunter", Cuthb ...
to catch deer for James VI and managed to catch only six, which he shipped from Sunderland to Kirkcaldy.


A royal quarrel

Another Danish commission including Steen Bille and
Niels Krag Niels Krag (1550-1602), was a Danish academic and diplomat. Krag was a Doctor of Divinity, Professor at the University of Copenhagen, and historiographer Royal. Mission to Scotland In August 1589 the Danish council decided that Peder Munk, Breid ...
visited in 1593, which resulted in the keeper James Beaton of Creich giving more rights over the lands and buildings to the queen,
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 – 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I; as such, she was Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and Queen of England and Ireland from the union of the Scottish and Engl ...
. She came to stay on 12 July 1594 before the baptism of Prince Henry at Stirling Castle. It was said she left Edinburgh for Falkland because
Holyrood Palace The Palace of Holyroodhouse ( or ), commonly referred to as Holyrood Palace or Holyroodhouse, is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Located at the bottom of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, at the opposite end to Edinburgh ...
was not magnificent enough to receive the Danish ambassadors Steen Bille and Christian Barnekow. James VI arranged for
Prince Henry Prince Henry (or Prince Harry) may refer to: People *Henry the Young King (1155–1183), son of Henry II of England, who was crowned king but predeceased his father *Prince Henry the Navigator of Portugal (1394–1460) *Henry, Duke of Cornwall (Ja ...
to stay at Stirling Castle with the Earl of Mar. This did not suit the queen. Courtiers took sides as the quarrel deepened. In August 1595 James persuaded Anne, who was now reluctant to leave Edinburgh, to come to Falkland and meet the Earl of Mar for a reconciliation. The kirk minister and royal chaplain
Patrick Galloway Patrick Galloway (c.1551 – 1626) was a Scottish minister, a Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. "The King wold needis have Mr Patrik Galloway to be his minister." He was Moderator of the General Assembly in 1590, and ...
gave a sermon about Adam and Eve and the duties of man and wife to each other, and it was thought that "she gave good ear to his advice". Another church minister David Lindsay, had a "long conference" with Anne at Falkland, hoping to heal the quarrel. Anne was joined at Falkland by her friend and servant
Margaret Vinstarr Margaret Vinstarr (fl. 1590–1600), was a Danish or German courtier in Scotland to Anne of Denmark commemorated by the ballad " The Laird o Logie" for rescuing her imprisoned lover. A gentlewoman at the Scottish court of Anne of Denmark Margare ...
. She had returned from visiting the queen's mother, Sophie of Mecklenburg-Güstrow, whose message to her daughter was that she ought to obey her husband's will in all things.


Last years as a royal palace

When
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 – 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I; as such, she was Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and Queen of England and Ireland from the union of the Scottish and Engl ...
visited in September 1598 her bed chamber was hung with tapestry brought from Holyroodhouse. A French ambassador Philippe de Béthune, brother of the Duke of Sully, came in July 1599. The English diplomat Sir William Bowes was reluctant to come to Falkland, where James VI might show more favour to the French ambassador. Béthune fell ill, needing a surgeon and a physician to bleed him. It was rumoured he had been poisoned. He recovered and went on a progress with the king to Inchmurrin and Hamilton Palace, after James VI wrote to the Laird of Wemyss for the loan of his best hackney horse and saddle. In July 1600 herons nested in the park, and James VI hoping to have them "increase and multiply" forbade anyone to kill herons in neighbouring lands. In August a French acrobat danced on a tightrope in the palace courtyard for the king and the queen. James VI played cards with the English diplomat George Nicholson at Falkland in May 1602. In September 1602 Anne of Denmark and the Master of Gray entertained Anne de Gondi, the wife of French ambassador the Baron de Tour, at Falkland, while he went on a progress with the king. Lord Henry Howard noted that the Master of Gray had spent this time with Queen Anne and it affected the conceit of his writing style. David Murray became keeper of the garden, park, and Lomond Hills and was allowed to build a house on the site of the old castle, called the Castlestead or Nether Palace of Falkland. Lord Walden stayed for a night in August 1613. This house was inherited by the next keeper of the park,
John Murray, 1st Earl of Annandale John Murray, 1st Earl of Annandale (died 1640) was a Scottish courtier and Member of Parliament. Career He was known as John Murray of Lochmaben or Lincluden, and John Murray of the Bedchamber. John Murray was the 6th surviving son of Sir Charle ...
. The palace was occasionally used as a prison. In November 1608 James instructed David Murray to keep
James Elphinstone, 1st Lord Balmerino James Elphinstone, 1st Lord Balmerino (1553?-1612) was a Scottish nobleman and politician, disgraced in 1609. Life to 1605 He was the third son of Robert Elphinstone, 3rd Lord Elphinstone, by Margaret, daughter of Sir John Drummond of Innerpe ...
, prisoner in the tower of the palace, for treasonable correspondence with the Pope. Balmerino was released in October 1609. After hearing Anne of Denmark speak of her love of Scotland, the Venetian ambassador
Antonio Foscarini Antonio Foscarini (c. 1570 in Venice – April 22, 1622) belonged to the Venetian nobility and was Venetian ambassador to Paris and later to London. He was the third son of Nicolò di Alvise of the family branch of San Polo and Maria Barbarigo di ...
came to Falkland in September 1613.


Civil war

After the
Union of the Crowns The Union of the Crowns ( gd, Aonadh nan Crùintean; sco, Union o the Crouns) was the accession of James VI of Scotland to the throne of the Kingdom of England as James I and the practical unification of some functions (such as overseas dipl ...
in 1603, the architect James Murray repaired the palace for the visit of King James in 1617. Some courtiers were lodged in the house of Nicol Moncrieff, which still stands in Falkland, opposite the palace gate. At the celebrations to welcome the king on 19 May, David Wedderburn provided a Latin poem, in which the King, after a day of hunting, was asked to contemplate the memorials of Scotland's past, victories over the Romans and Vikings, the
wars of Scottish Independence The Wars of Scottish Independence were a series of military campaigns fought between the Kingdom of Scotland and the Kingdom of England in the late 13th and early 14th centuries. The First War (1296–1328) began with the English invasion of ...
, and the present union of the kingdoms of Britain. The palace was repaired in 1629. Roofing slates were shipped from Dundee to Newburgh. A glazier, David Masterton, painted the iron window grills or
yett A yett (from the Old English and Scots language word for "gate") is a gate or grille of latticed wrought iron bars used for defensive purposes in castles and tower houses. Unlike a portcullis, which is raised and lowered vertically using mech ...
s with
red lead Red is the color at the long wavelength end of the visible spectrum of light, next to orange and opposite violet. It has a dominant wavelength of approximately 625–740 nanometres. It is a primary color in the RGB color model and a secondary ...
. A new set of wooden armorial panels were made for the gatehouse and painted by Valentine Jenkin.
Charles I Charles I may refer to: Kings and emperors * Charlemagne (742–814), numbered Charles I in the lists of Holy Roman Emperors and French kings * Charles I of Anjou (1226–1285), also king of Albania, Jerusalem, Naples and Sicily * Charles I of ...
, and Charles II also visited Falkland. Accounts survive for Charles II's stay in July 1650, when proclamations had to be made to reduce the inflated prices of lodgings and horse-hire charged in the village. Charles' food was seasoned with saffron, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and ginger. Every tart provided for the king's table had a pound of sugar, while tarts for lesser courtiers required only half a pound. A fire partially destroyed the palace during its occupation by
Cromwell Oliver Cromwell (25 April 15993 September 1658) was an English politician and military officer who is widely regarded as one of the most important statesmen in English history. He came to prominence during the 1639 to 1651 Wars of the Three Ki ...
's troops, and it quickly fell into ruin.


19th century

In 1887 John, 3rd Marquis of Bute, purchased the estates of Falkland and started a 20-year restoration of the palace using two architects:
John Kinross John Kinross (3 July 1855 – 7 January 1931) was a Scottish architect. He was particularly skilled in traditional styles and was highly involved in the restoration of historic buildings, researching his subjects well before any project. Biogra ...
and
Robert Weir Schultz Robert Weir Schultz (26 July 1860 – 29 April 1951), later Robert Weir Schultz Weir and known as R. W. S. Weir, was a Scottish Arts and Crafts architect, artist, landscape designer and furniture designer. He did much work on the Isle of Bute ...
. At the time the Palace was a ruin with no windows or doors. Thanks to his restoration work and considerable budget the Palace remains standing today. Many features in and around the Palace show evidence of his work, such as the "B" on the guttering and portraits of his children carved into a cupboard door in the Keeper's Dressing Room. During the time of Lord Bute, the ornamental kitchen garden was enhanced by a pergola and decorative vases. The north part of the "upper garden" was redesigned to express the foundations of Falkland Castle and Palace North Range which were uncovered during the Marquis's archaeological excavations. Walls were built atop the foundations for the Well Tower and the Great Hall to emphasise the structures. The Orchard and Palace gardens were linked to the House of Falkland by the private walk and new bridges. Houses were built near the palace and connected into the ornamental kitchen garden and orchard by a system of new public and private paths. The ground around the curling pond (to the North East of the orchard) was planted with trees and shrubs and laid out in flower plots. The enclosing yew hedge around the pond garden is a typical feature of period. The lime tree avenue which is north of the palace gatehouse was built sometime between 1894 and 1912–13 according to the Ordinance Surveys of those periods. The Victorian glass house was built in 1890 by Mckenzie and Moncur from Edinburgh for Lord Bute and was used mainly to grow flowers and exotic plants. Plant hunting was popular at that time and wealthy people would travel the world to find specimens, and plant in their gardens for display to friends. There is also evidence that there was a second glass house in the garden near the existing one.


Modern era

In 1952, the Hereditary Keeper Major Michael Crichton Stewart decided to appoint the National Trust for Scotland to take care of the Palace. The National Trust thus became Deputy Keeper of the Palace, and they now care for and maintain the Palace and its extensive gardens. The NTS website offers an array of articles and 8mages exploring the Palace and grounds. National Galleries Scotland have created a digital project exploring how the palace would look if reimagined in a warmer setting due to climate change. See the project here.


Gardens

Falkland Palace stands on three hectares of ground on a sandstone ridge which is dominated by the Lomond Hills in the background. Those walking around the garden will see a distinct and overlapping timeline which reveals the ever-changing purpose and style of the grounds. The first record of a garden here was in 1451. In 1500, a new gardener, John Strathachin or Strachen, was to be paid 4
merks The merk is a long-obsolete Scottish silver coin. Originally the same word as a money mark of silver, the merk was in circulation at the end of the 16th century and in the 17th century. It was originally valued at 13 shillings 4 pence (exactly o ...
yearly with grazing for his horse and cows. He was to provide fruit, onions and herbs. At that time the garden had a courtyard and stables in the gatehouse, where King James IV kept his great Belgian steed. There was also a fish pond which provided the King with fresh fish. Fruit, vegetables and herbs were grown in the area for the royal plate and meat could be hunted in the ancient forest (known as Falkland Forest) surrounding the Palace, by hawking and hunting wild boar and deer. James VI met the English ambassadors Sir Robert Bowes and Sir William Bowes in the garden at 8 o'clock on 21 June 1597 and listened to their speeches about border affairs. In August 1602 James VI received the French ambassador, the Baron de Tour, in the garden. They talked for three quarters of an hour and the ambassador made the king laugh. A few days later they hunted together in the park. Garden designer
Percy Cane Percival Stephen Cane (1881–1976) was an English garden designer and writer. Biography Cane was born and educated in Essex, studying horticulture and architecture. He designed scores of gardens over a long and distinguished career, and won ...
redesigned the gardens in the 1940s. He had designed the palace grounds at
Addis Ababa Addis Ababa (; am, አዲስ አበባ, , new flower ; also known as , lit. "natural spring" in Oromo), is the capital and largest city of Ethiopia. It is also served as major administrative center of the Oromia Region. In the 2007 census, t ...
in Ethiopia. Cane was born and educated in
Essex Essex () is a county in the East of England. One of the home counties, it borders Suffolk and Cambridgeshire to the north, the North Sea to the east, Hertfordshire to the west, Kent across the estuary of the River Thames to the south, and Gr ...
where he studied horticulture and architecture. In 1930 Cane founded and edited the quarterly journal Garden Design and wrote many books on garden design. Cane's style can best be described as Arts and Crafts and his curvy borders were seen as innovatory at the time. Conservation in the garden is achieved through general maintenance, which includes clearing leaves, mowing the main lawn, tidying the flower beds and planting, enhancing and creating wildlife habitats. A wildflower meadow, native hedges and spring flowering bulbs have been planted to provide food and protection to various small insects and small mammals. Conservation means work has to be carried out in a sympathetic way throughout property, not only to the aesthetics and history of the palace but also for the climbing plants and bats that live in the cellars. Bats are endangered and protected in Scotland and it is important that they are not disturbed. The walls of the palace have been repointed (replacing the cement between the stones) and replaced with lime mortar which is a traditional material and better suited for this purpose as it is breathable and prevents dampening. The current Head Gardener Sonia Ferrás Mañá is restoring the Percy Cane garden to the original design and flower choice. Mañá, the garden staff and volunteers have been working on various project in recent years to conserve the garden and encourage wildlife. The garden team at Falkland Palace are now encouraging wildlife by bringing back the meadow. To create the meadow the grass has been cut only once a year for the last four years and more than 10,000 wild flowers and a similar number of spring flowering bulbs have been planted. This work is thanks to the garden staff, volunteers and support from Fife Environmental Trust, Scottish Natural Heritage, NTS Member Centres and other donations. These flowers and un-mown grasses encourage beneficial insects to the orchard which aid in the fruit trees pollination and in turn attract other animals. There are currently forty different fly species in the orchard, some of which are rare or unusual and some are found nowhere else in Scotland. The insects, especially the moths, have attracted Pipistrelle and Soprano Pipistrelle bats which have been seen hunting and living here. There have also been sightings of
red squirrels The red squirrel (''Sciurus vulgaris'') is a species of tree squirrel in the genus ''Sciurus'' common throughout Europe and Asia. The red squirrel is an arboreal, primarily herbivorous rodent. In Great Britain, Ireland, and in Italy numbers ...
in the forest which are now considered endangered animals due to the disappearance of their habitat and the competition from
grey squirrels Gray squirrel or grey squirrel may refer to several species of squirrel indigenous to North America: *The eastern gray squirrel (''Sciurus carolinensis''), from the eastern United States and southeastern Canada; introduced into the United Kingdom, I ...
. A Red Squirrel Project is carried out at Falkland Palace to encourage them back into the gardens. A shelter was built in the orchard for invertebrate (i.e. insects and worms) and small animals which will encourage them to stay longer in the garden and perhaps live there. The orchard has been planted with native trees such as hawthorn, oak and willows which would have been growing here in the 15th century. The Maspie Burn running between the garden and the orchard is a habitat for water wildlife, including trout.


Description

The palace has two wings arranged in an 'L' shape, now called the South and East Quarters or Ranges. The palace courtyard is entered through the gatehouse tower at the west end of the South Quarter. The external ashlar façade of the South Quarter has gunloops at basement level. Above these are the small windows of the private lodgings, and on the second level the large paired windows of the Chapel Royal. Between these windows are weathered niches and statues. The corbels show the
instruments of the passion Arma Christi ("weapons of Christ"), or the Instruments of the Passion, are the objects associated with the Passion of Jesus Christ in Christian symbolism and art. They are seen as arms in the sense of heraldry, and also as the weapons Christ ...
; the chapel at Falkland was dedicated to St Thomas and is the Catholic parish church for Falkland with Mass every Sunday at 9 a.m. The wallhead is finished with a decorated
cornice In architecture, a cornice (from the Italian ''cornice'' meaning "ledge") is generally any horizontal decorative moulding that crowns a building or furniture element—for example, the cornice over a door or window, around the top edge of a ...
and battlement which continues around the west side of the gate tower. To the east of the chapel there is small rectangular sectioned tower which once housed a circular staircase, and beyond is the partly reconstructed gable of the East Quarter. Although some writers have attributed part of the South Quarter to the time of
James IV James IV (17 March 1473 – 9 September 1513) was King of Scotland from 11 June 1488 until his death at the Battle of Flodden in 1513. He inherited the throne at the age of fifteen on the death of his father, James III, at the Battle of Sauch ...
, the form of the gunloops, the continuous parapet, and the documented payments to Peter the Flemishman for the 5 statues in 1539 adequately demonstrate that the present appearance dates from the works of James V. The entrance tower was built in 1541, and the accounts record the work of two master masons: "to John Brownhill and Henry Bawtie for complete ending of the fore entry and tower ... and raising of certain chimneys in the south quarter." Within the gate tower and south quarter, visitors can view the Keeper's Apartments in the tower, the Chapel Royal and gallery. The East Quarter, apart from its courtyard façade is ruined. The centrally placed access tower, the Crosshouse, was reconstructed by the Marquis of Bute. The National Trust's architect, Schomberg Scott recreated the King and Queen's bedchambers within. The northern section of the East Quarter was originally a lodging built by James IV. The East Quarter was remodelled by the mason John Merlioun in 1538. This part of the building, with its "back galleries" overlooking the garden was decayed in 1615. In 1616 the master of works, James Murray was ordered to repair the flat roof of the King and Queen's galleries and the roof of the lodging of the East Quarter in anticipation of the visit of James VI. The South and East courtyard façades were decorated and unified with pilasters in a French Renaissance style between 1537 and 1542. Their appearance is comparable to the French Chateau of
Villers-Cotterêts Villers-Cotterêts () is a commune in the Aisne department in Hauts-de-France, France. It is notable as the signing-place in 1539 of the '' Ordinance of Villers-Cotterêts'' discontinuing the use of Latin in official French documents, and as t ...
. The buttresses on the East are dated 1537, and on the South, where the masonry is more sophisticated, 1539. The later work may be connected with the arrival of Nicolas Roy, a French mason sent to Scotland in March 1539 by
Antoinette of Bourbon Antoinette of Bourbon (25 December 1494 – 22 January 1583), was a French noblewoman of the House of Bourbon. She was the wife of Claude of Lorraine, Duke of Guise. Life Antoinette de Bourbon was born on 25 December 1494 at the Chateau de Ha ...
, the mother of Mary of Guise. The chapel ceiling dates from the time of James V, as recent
dendrochronology Dendrochronology (or tree-ring dating) is the scientific method of dating tree rings (also called growth rings) to the exact year they were formed. As well as dating them, this can give data for dendroclimatology, the study of climate and atmos ...
work by the AOC Group has confirmed, and was re-decorated for the visit of
Charles I Charles I may refer to: Kings and emperors * Charlemagne (742–814), numbered Charles I in the lists of Holy Roman Emperors and French kings * Charles I of Anjou (1226–1285), also king of Albania, Jerusalem, Naples and Sicily * Charles I of ...
in 1633. James Murray, master of works, was ordered to repair the roof of the South Quarter in 1625, with instructions to "have a special care and regard" that the great ceiling of the Chapel be "preserved and kept as far as possibly may be." The courtyard was originally completed on the north with a great hall to the north. The footprint of the building was established by excavation and laid out with paving slabs by the 3rd Marquis of Bute. Beyond this area are the reconstructed footings of Falkland Castle. This was the site of the short-lived Nether Palace or Castlestead in the 17th century, known from a plan and elevation drawn by
Alexander Edward Alexander Edward (10 June 1651 – 16 November 1708) was a priest of the Scottish Episcopal Church who later became a draughtsman, architect and landscape designer. He was a stylistic follower of Sir William Bruce, and planned several gardens in ...
.


Real tennis court

On the lower ground in the gardens, slightly beyond the remains of the medieval castle uncovered c. 1900, lies the original
real tennis Real tennis – one of several games sometimes called "the sport of kings" – is the original racquet sport from which the modern game of tennis (also called "lawn tennis") is derived. It is also known as court tennis in the United Sta ...
court. The masons William Mason and Alexander Allardice, and others built the tennis court. Its walls were finished by Callum the pargeoner, or lime plasterer.''Accounts of the Master of Works'', vol. 1 (HMSO, 1957), pp. 278-80. It is the world's oldest tennis court still in use. The roofed spectator area is home to a number of swallows during spring and summer. The court is home to the Falkland Palace Royal Tennis Club.


References


Further reading

* * Dunbar, John G., (1991), Some 16th century French parallels for Falkland, in ''Review of Scottish Culture'', vol. 7, 3–8. * Bentley-Cranch, Dana, (1986), An early 16th century French architectural source for Falkland, in ''Review of Scottish Culture'', vol. 2 85–96. * Higgins, James, (2020), 'Scotland's Stewart Monarchs'. At https://sites.google.com/view/stewartscotland


External links


Rampant Scotland feature

National Trust for Scotland profile

Engraving of Dunkeld in 1693
by
John Slezer John Abraham Slezer (before 1650 – 1717) was a Dutch-born military engineer and artist. Life He was born in Holland and began a military career in service to the House of Orange. He arrived in the Kingdom of Scotland in 1669, and was app ...
at National Library of Scotland
Jennifer Melville, 'Africans at the court of James IV', National Trust for Scotland
{{Authority control Castles in Fife National Trust for Scotland properties Listed palaces in Scotland Royal residences in Scotland Renaissance architecture in Scotland Scheduled Ancient Monuments in Fife Tourist attractions in Fife Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscapes Gardens in Fife Historic house museums in Fife Category A listed buildings in Fife Country houses in Fife Scottish parliamentary locations and buildings Hunting lodges in Scotland Palaces in Fife Clan Stewart Falkland, Fife Real tennis venues African presence at the Scottish royal court